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Beware the Shallows


jedimasterben

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Paleoreef103

I love gorg dominant tanks. Tank looks great, Ben. What setting do you run your gyre at normally? That thing looks like a revelation.

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Maybe it decided to take a vacation for a couple of weeks. The day before it opened, it shed, it's never taken that long before (usually only closed for a few hours or a day), but maybe it had some trouble? Idk for sure.

 

How much flow is it getting? Some leathers want to be slapped silly with flow.

 

that may be it, it sheds a lot like every time it gets polyp extension it sheds, I am thinking its carbon change time probably.

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jedimasterben

that may be it, it sheds a lot like every time it gets polyp extension it sheds, I am thinking its carbon change time probably.

Leathers don't really care about running carbon, it's everything in the water that does ;)

 

I use ROX 0.8, about 200mL and change it about once a month or so (really, just whenever I remember to lol). Does a bang-up job.

 

Try moving it to an area with a lot more flow if you can, or maybe more light. My green one loves light, it gets a ton of it where it is.

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Leathers don't really care about running carbon, it's everything in the water that does ;)

 

I use ROX 0.8, about 200mL and change it about once a month or so (really, just whenever I remember to lol). Does a bang-up job.

 

Try moving it to an area with a lot more flow if you can, or maybe more light. My green one loves light, it gets a ton of it where it is.

Mine gets pretty decent light its higher on the rocks and about 4 inches outside of the reflector of the halide. Gatta be flow, the red macro by it is probably blocking some of it. WTB nano version of gyre

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jedimasterben

I love gorg dominant tanks. Tank looks great, Ben. What setting do you run your gyre at normally? That thing looks like a revelation.

Missed this earlier. I've managed to work it up to setting 4/11, about 14.5 watts of power at that setting. Seems just about perfect :)

 

 

 

 

So after a trip to Home Depot to get some more 1.25" pipe, a 3" sanitary tee, a 1.5" to 1" bushing, a 3" to 1.5" bushing, and a 1.5" to .5" bushing, I extended my Durso standpipe by one more inch, completely silencing the overflow itself, and the mass of large PVC made a reverse Durso and silenced where it hits the sump. I also have a pipe that is making my skimmer much quieter until I can get my gate valve and silencer from Coralvue, but as of right now, the tank is eerily quiet. All I can hear is the low gurgling of the water inside the drain pipe (not sure how I could silence that).

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jedimasterben

how thick are the branches in that 2nd gorg pic, they look quite stout and interesting.

Very thick for a gorgonian, over 1/4".

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so I think I got a clam that is going to die from pm, doesn't surprise me but yeh, making me want to move some stuff and try a nem now if I try a clam fallow period...

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NirvanaandTool

Loving all the gorgs Ben. Giving me some ideas for my tank. I just got my first gorg about 3 weeks ago and am ready for more!

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jedimasterben

so I think I got a clam that is going to die from pm, doesn't surprise me but yeh, making me want to move some stuff and try a nem now if I try a clam fallow period...

Go for it! Just make sure that you start with a healthy one - nothing white or opaque, and make sure that they're sticky. Have the store put in some mysis or other food (no baby brine, cyclops, or anything else tiny) and see if it has a feeding response, and if it isn't strongly stuck to a rock/etc then you're taking a risk.

 

Loving all the gorgs Ben. Giving me some ideas for my tank. I just got my first gorg about 3 weeks ago and am ready for more!

BUY MOAR

 

moar-cat.jpg

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jedimasterben

LFS has bluestripe pipefish and ruby red dragonets for $18 and $22 this week, respectively. To get one of those, or buy the 8-bulb Sunpower to get my next light rolling along.... hmmm...

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jedimasterben

I like the way you think B)

 

But I still have an MP40 and a mostly-made light to sell still, and then my already-made light to sell once I get the new one made that I probably won't be able to sell, either. Only $1400 or so that'll be chillin' in the closet lol

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LFS has bluestripe pipefish and ruby red dragonets for $18 and $22 this week, respectively. To get one of those, or buy the 8-bulb Sunpower to get my next light rolling along.... hmmm...

Dropping 2 bulbs and adding leds?? :)

We can build our lights together. I'll just copy what you do. Better yet, just buy 2 of everything and send me the bill lol

 

I'm loving my 8 bulb right now. Is this going over the main tank or something else?

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jedimasterben

Dropping 2 bulbs and adding leds?? :) We can build our lights together. I'll just copy what you do. Better yet, just buy 2 of everything and send me the bill lol

As long as you foot the whole bill :lol:

 

If I do end up with an eight bulb, I'll drop four of them, six bulb will just drop two. I can't see using more than two bulbs except for some testing I've got coming up, but I also might want to keep the six bulbs intact if I get the eight bulb to test a couple more combos... hmm. choices.

 

At any rate, for the tank itself during non-testing, I'll still be using two 39w T5.

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As long as you foot the whole bill :lol:

 

If I do end up with an eight bulb, I'll drop four of them, six bulb will just drop two. I can't see using more than two bulbs except for some testing I've got coming up, but I also might want to keep the six bulbs intact if I get the eight bulb to test a couple more combos... hmm. choices.

 

At any rate, for the tank itself during non-testing, I'll still be using two 39w T5.

you going to powdercoat the ati fixture and all that fun stuff? We have gun shops that do crazy cerakote stuff I thought would be awesome on a light fixture aswell.

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As long as you foot the whole bill :lol:

 

If I do end up with an eight bulb, I'll drop four of them, six bulb will just drop two. I can't see using more than two bulbs except for some testing I've got coming up, but I also might want to keep the six bulbs intact if I get the eight bulb to test a couple more combos... hmm. choices.

 

At any rate, for the tank itself during non-testing, I'll still be using two 39w T5.

 

I want to keep 6 bulbs. I think I'm going in the WWC direction. Run actinic bulbs and blue leds for the whole day, and blast the tank with light for a short period like 3-4 hours. They run 4 Actinic bulbs and blue leds for I believe 12 hours, and run whites only a couple hours. I would run the blue leds and actinics all day, and just run all 6 bulbs for a short period.

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As long as you foot the whole bill :lol:

 

If I do end up with an eight bulb, I'll drop four of them, six bulb will just drop two. I can't see using more than two bulbs except for some testing I've got coming up, but I also might want to keep the six bulbs intact if I get the eight bulb to test a couple more combos... hmm. choices.

 

At any rate, for the tank itself during non-testing, I'll still be using two 39w T5.

Ha!

Ben you strike me as the kind of person who just dropped two GTX 780s for the brand new pair of GTX 980s. Me, I'm still rocking a LED fixture with XP-E RBs and XP-G NWs as the backbone. :lol:

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jedimasterben

you going to powdercoat the ati fixture and all that fun stuff? We have gun shops that do crazy cerakote stuff I thought would be awesome on a light fixture aswell.

Dave is gonna do some magic to it, that'll all be worked out later, though ;)

 

I want to keep 6 bulbs. I think I'm going in the WWC direction. Run actinic bulbs and blue leds for the whole day, and blast the tank with light for a short period like 3-4 hours. They run 4 Actinic bulbs and blue leds for I believe 12 hours, and run whites only a couple hours. I would run the blue leds and actinics all day, and just run all 6 bulbs for a short period.

That doesn't sound all that great to me, I don't like the look of sub-500nm light alone, so unless the 'white' bulbs were on while I was home, I wouldn't get any enjoyment out of the tank. To me, it's more than just seeing how much fluorescence I can get out of the corals that have GFP, it's the fish, the microfauna on the rocks, feather dusters, crabs, macroalgae, anemones, my starfish. None of that can be seen well under solely actinic light.

 

20140603-IMG_7047.jpg

 

The above is a pair of ATI Blue Plus, which I'd imagine would make up your six 'actinic' bulbs. Looks, at best, meh to me, even if I had the tank packed with coral. I run all LEDs at all times so that there is no real change in color as they adjust up and down for the day, with the photoperiod starting somewhere around 11AM and ending somewhere around 11PM. The T5 tubes come on for eight hours, mostly when I'm home (timing tuned for the most compromise for when I'm home in the evenings after work and for my days off), as they are aesthetic and not primary.

 

In the end, it's all about finding what YOU like and then doing it how you want. Find the bulb/light combination that looks the best to you and make sure that for the time you are not at work you can enjoy the tank under that look. Corals will grow no matter what light you put over them so long as the intensity is there (and it really doesn't take all that much intensity to get past their normal growth range and into photoinhibition). I would suggest doing your lighting in 'steps' - two bulbs, two bulbs, two bulbs, etc. This helps prevent them from hitting photoinhibition before your lighting peaks for the day. In the wild, corals reach photoinhibition around 10AM and spend the rest of the day desperately trying to fluoresce light away from them. Don't want that happening in our tanks, as it's just a waste of energy and bulb life, we could use that money on more corals! :)

 

 

Ha!

Ben you strike me as the kind of person who just dropped two GTX 780s for the brand new pair of GTX 980s. Me, I'm still rocking a LED fixture with XP-E RBs and XP-G NWs as the backbone. :lol:

 

 

Uhh... maybe I'm not that person. :bling:

 

I've got a GTX 780 right now that I'm running a very large overclock on - sustained 1320MHz with a full-coverage water block. If it were not so difficult to sell GPUs with full blocks, I'd have it gone already and have a 980 in its place. But until I can outright buy a 980 and a water block (gonna run me around $650-700 all said and done) I'm sticking with the 780 for now. Can't wait to see some overclocking numbers on the 980s once alternate BIOS are able to be flashed to remove power limits, and under a custom water loop. :)

 

I've actually still got a pair of Radeon 6970 under full cover blocks that I've been trying to sell since before I got my 780 like a year ago.

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Uhh... maybe I'm not that person. :bling:

 

I've got a GTX 780 right now that I'm running a very large overclock on - sustained 1320MHz with a full-coverage water block. If it were not so difficult to sell GPUs with full blocks, I'd have it gone already and have a 980 in its place. But until I can outright buy a 980 and a water block (gonna run me around $650-700 all said and done) I'm sticking with the 780 for now. Can't wait to see some overclocking numbers on the 980s once alternate BIOS are able to be flashed to remove power limits, and under a custom water loop. :)

 

I've actually still got a pair of Radeon 6970 under full cover blocks that I've been trying to sell since before I got my 780 like a year ago.

That sounds like a sweet set up. Are you rocking massive 1080p frame rate or very playable 1440p?

 

Anyway, I was more just having a chuckle at the fact you can get 400 PAR on the sandbed easy and you're designing your next light! That doesn't mean I'm not really excited to see what you do with your next build. Will it be based around bridgelux V10s? :)

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Messing around with electronics is clearly a sickness, I really try to leave my custom comp builds alone til I deem they have been used long enough though, then I gut and redo as a fun little project. I havn't messed with any OC'ing though as most of what I play performs quite happily at stock.

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