jedimasterben Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Yeah those 3UP stars look like a pain. How do you hold the LED's in place? Do you bother drilling and tapping holes or just using arctic ceramique thermal paste? Psh, screw that noise lol, that takes WAY too much time for no real gain that would make a big difference. I use a single part epoxy from Steve's LEDs, but I use ceramique if my tube is too old. This stuff performs well, but the tubes are basically single use, once you use a little bit from them, they're done. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 What do the T5 reflectors look like for that heatsink? Link to comment
RollaJase Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Psh, screw that noise lol, that takes WAY too much time for no real gain that would make a big difference. I use a single part epoxy from Steve's LEDs, but I use ceramique if my tube is too old. This stuff performs well, but the tubes are basically single use, once you use a little bit from them, they're done. Ah ok, good to know, I may look at that stuff. I figure, as I only have 6 arrays to mount, 24 holes in total that I may drill and tap, will help me sleep easy at night lol. I have some Arctic Silver 5 laying around so will just use that as a TIM. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 What do the T5 reflectors look like for that heatsink? Well, basically they aren't reflectors, they're just a place to hold a T5 lamp. I'm looking for something that I can put in that part to at least give it a little bit more reflection, but I'd say the way they're made is about 1/4-1/3 as efficient as a good polished reflector. I was trying to get some WhiteOptics White98 reflective film, but they have high minimum orders. Plus, their films aren't that great at reflecting violet light, which sucks. Ah ok, good to know, I may look at that stuff. I figure, as I only have 6 arrays to mount, 24 holes in total that I may drill and tap, will help me sleep easy at night lol. I have some Arctic Silver 5 laying around so will just use that as a TIM. Eh, for this kind of application, thermal epoxy is definitely 'good enough' and you won't see too significant of gains by drilling and using paste. But I'm also really lazy Link to comment
RollaJase Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Eh, for this kind of application, thermal epoxy is definitely 'good enough' and you won't see too significant of gains by drilling and using paste. But I'm also really lazy Haha, I wont be drilling for any thermal gains, just piece of mind that they wont fall off. Should also make things easier when swapping arrays out if they die or for when Dave releases a V4 (hoping they will be the same size anyway haha). Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Haha, I wont be drilling for any thermal gains, just piece of mind that they wont fall off. Should also make things easier when swapping arrays out if they die or for when Dave releases a V4 (hoping they will be the same size anyway haha). With thermal epoxy, just stick a flat-head screwdriver under it and twist and the LED star/board pops right off, but it can only come off with that force, I've subjected some of mine to some abuse and never had any pop off without me doing it Link to comment
RollaJase Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 With thermal epoxy, just stick a flat-head screwdriver under it and twist and the LED star/board pops right off, but it can only come off with that force, I've subjected some of mine to some abuse and never had any pop off without me doing it Hmm, sounds promising then, I'll take a look into it. I've got a bit of time before I'll actually need to use it so I may order some from the States/eBay. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Well, basically they aren't reflectors, they're just a place to hold a T5 lamp. I'm looking for something that I can put in that part to at least give it a little bit more reflection, but I'd say the way they're made is about 1/4-1/3 as efficient as a good polished reflector. I was trying to get some WhiteOptics White98 reflective film, but they have high minimum orders. Plus, their films aren't that great at reflecting violet light, which sucks. Eh, for this kind of application, thermal epoxy is definitely 'good enough' and you won't see too significant of gains by drilling and using paste. But I'm also really lazy You can probably attach ATI powermodule reflectors on there with some ingenuity. All they are is a bent silver coated aluminum sheet. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 You can probably attach ATI powermodule reflectors on there with some ingenuity. All they are is a bent silver coated aluminum sheet. Yeah, that's not really possible, the opening is not much larger than the lamp itself, much less large enough to fit a 2" reflector lol. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 So I got the hybrid light wired up to the driver board. The blue (not royal blue) channel didn't work, turns out when I took three individual blues and put them on a 3up star, I didn't flow them properly. Of course, I also left my heat gun at work today, so I didn't think I'd be able to get to reflow them tonight, but I remembered I could put the soldering iron touching the bottom of the star for a minute or two and it would heat it enough to reflow, and it worked, and they light up now! Now I just have to wait the few hours or so until the thermal epoxy cures and it will be good to go!I took some very basic PAR measurements. With the blue channel fixed, I get about 182 PAR at 24". Not too shabby. I would have power measurements but my Kill-a-Watt has run off Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 The imp is crooked. Seriously though looks good. Link to comment
fredfish01 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 No hot melt glue in sight. No random jumble of cables. OK, who built that thing for you. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 The imp is crooked. Seriously though looks good. That's because it can't be put in the 'legitimate' way in the housing, which uses the mount holes in the Mini board, as I put sockets in to hold the LDD/SCW because I don't like them being ruined by soldering them in place. It also will not be a permanent part of this fixture No hot melt glue in sight. No random jumble of cables. OK, who built that thing for you. There is plenty of hot glue in the fixture itself lol, but I tried my best to keep all of it internal! The hanging kit, lids, T5 endcap, should all be here tomorrow! huzzah! Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 It also will not be a permanent part of this fixture What's in the pipeline then? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 What's in the pipeline then? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1758456789/fishbit-your-aquarium-made-simple Unless it doesn't make its kickstarter, which is looking more like the ending in sight. :/ They made $25K in five days, then eight days to get to $39K, and 16 days left to go to make it to $71K. They're really gonna need to step up the marketing to make it to the goal. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1758456789/fishbit-your-aquarium-made-simple Unless it doesn't make its kickstarter, which is looking more like the ending in sight. :/ They made $25K in five days, then eight days to get to $39K, and 16 days left to go to make it to $71K. They're really gonna need to step up the marketing to make it to the goal. Ah, yeah I've seen that but I don't really see what makes it different from an Apex, and if they can't effectively differentiate from the Apex systems to a computer guy like me then they have problems. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Ah, yeah I've seen that but I don't really see what makes it different from an Apex, and if they can't effectively differentiate from the Apex systems to a computer guy like me then they have problems. Comparing the full Fishbit system at retail cost ($700) versus Apex Gold retail ($800) Wifi control with a dedicated app versus using Fusion (which I think still relies on third party services for some of it, like email/text) on an ethernet only connection. Eight dedicated 0-10v analog or 5v/10v PWM ports, versus four built in 0-10v analog and needing a VDM at $100 to get to eight, and still only outputs 0-10v analog. They claim it's super easy to program and set up, which is really yet to be determined, whereas for some parts of Apex it is still generally difficult to the average user. Fishbit uses all solid state relays with 10A maximum current for each, Apex relay modules use mechanical relays for six outlets and two solid state relays, both having differing ampacities and limits for low-current devices. The rest of it comes down to whether or not the 'walled garden, but dirt simple' approach will appeal to more than just hardcore reefers. Fishbit is targeting the 'average' aquarium owner, and the cost of entry for just the relay setup is $250, versus four relays and temperature monitoring/control at $240 for the Apex Jr. I do like the fact that each module is completely separate - there is no 'base unit' that everything attaches to, so any other expansions/accessories will be their own entity. IE, if my relay box gets water in it and fries, the monitor bit will be fine and still work adn connect as normal. With Apex, everything connects up, so if the head unit fries, then everything else stops working, and that is something that I don't particularly like. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Now that's much more interesting. Seems like they need to bring you in on their team lol. Or have you write a Fishbit vs. Apex breakdown like that for their Kickstarter. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 So I won't be getting the last couple of pieces for the light til tomorrow.... but I couldn't resist ghetto fabbin it up! My literal wire hanging kit Not too shabby! I think this is at 50%. Link to comment
RollaJase Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Looks like a nice colour and spread. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Yeah, for being two LED clusters at 12" on center, they cover the 36" length really really well, as good as the 16" long MarsAqua panel did. Link to comment
WhiteWulfe Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1758456789/fishbit-your-aquarium-made-simple Unless it doesn't make its kickstarter, which is looking more like the ending in sight. :/ They made $25K in five days, then eight days to get to $39K, and 16 days left to go to make it to $71K. They're really gonna need to step up the marketing to make it to the goal. It looks interesting, but there's one thing that might be keeping a bunch of people from committing, and that's the part that says "Ships only to US" EDIT: Back on topic, I wish I had your DIY skills. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 It looks interesting, but there's one thing that might be keeping a bunch of people from committing, and that's the part that says "Ships only to US" EDIT: Back on topic, I wish I had your DIY skills. Of course, that is because the first run is for the US market. There is no sense in sourcing and developing hardware for different AC voltage inputs without being sure that the demand will be there. I think on their site it mentions 240v/etc coming later. Link to comment
WhiteWulfe Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Of course, that is because the first run is for the US market. There is no sense in sourcing and developing hardware for different AC voltage inputs without being sure that the demand will be there. I think on their site it mentions 240v/etc coming later. Canada runs on the exact same outlets and voltages, although instead of power coming from rivers/coal/nuclear/etc it's from Moose. Just kidding about the Moose part Link to comment
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