CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid

[jedimasterben]

Canada runs on the exact same outlets and voltages, although instead of power coming from rivers/coal/nuclear/etc it's from Moose. Just kidding about the Moose part

Didn't know that! Another issue is handling international shipping, even to Canada, can be a daunting task for a business starting out. If you want one, you can have it sent to me and I can forward it on to you

[WhiteWulfe]

Didn't know that! Another issue is handling international shipping, even to Canada, can be a daunting task for a business starting out. If you want one, you can have it sent to me and I can forward it on to you

 

Quite true, international shipping (especially with USPS) isn't exactly a walk in the park down there. So many forms to fill out, whereas up here it's a case of two forms (the shipping label, and the quick sticker stating what's in it).

 

I'd love one, especially since the full on system+ is about $372 CAD cheaper ($545 USD = $706 CAD atm) when compared to an Apex Gold system........ Except I kind of blew the tax return on our new, techier living room (and about half of the list of things I need tot ake care of before starting a saltwater tank), but hubby is happy a good chunk of the to-do/to-take-care-of list is now taken care of.

 

I really do hope they get the funding they require, as it looks rather nice, and I love the fact it's designed with smartphone use in mind, not to mention that Android support has also been confirmed in the comments.

[jedimasterben]

Found my Kill-a-Watt to measure power consumption of the light.

All off
4.3w

NW only
33.8w

RB only
39.4w

C/L only
19.1w

B only
31.6w

V only
33.2w

Fan only
6.7w

All on
140w

T5 on
50.1w


Totals to 190 watts with everything at full power. Not sure how much PAR the T5 give (I'm using two Giesemann Super Actinic), but I'd imagine that it is not a lot, but the LEDs give 180 PAR at the bottom of the tank (24") at that power level, so if it hits 200 total that would be cool. I won't be running quite at full power, though, just will do probably 80% or so.

[jedimasterben]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jedimasterben]

Already have the first changes lined up and ordered LOL. Blue LEDs should be complementary to royal blue and violet - they should be in the 460-470nm range to not be too green, and should fluoresce a few more types of pigments. Well, the blue Rebels that Steve's LEDs sells are just too close to cyan. They do not fluoresce even green pigments, and they have a heavier cyan cast than blue, so they are being ditched in favor of B3-B4 bin 465-470nm XP-E2 blue from LEDgroupbuy.

 

RapidLED has also started selling 'ultra marine blue' 440-445nm SemiLEDs C35. I am a big fan of lower wavelength royals, their purplish cast is awesome, something I definitely miss from my first array from Steve's that used the same range for royal blue, before they switched to 450-455nm chips. I will be adding six of them to my royal blue channel (three in series per parallel string).

 

I've also ordered six blank 3up 3535 star PCB from LEDsupply so that I can reflow all of these LEDs onto 3up stars so that I have less to have to mount and solder

[Halo_003]

Already have the first changes lined up and ordered LOL. Blue LEDs should be complementary to royal blue and violet - they should be in the 460-470nm range to not be too green, and should fluoresce a few more types of pigments. Well, the blue Rebels that Steve's LEDs sells are just too close to cyan. They do not fluoresce even green pigments, and they have a heavier cyan cast than blue, so they are being ditched in favor of B3-B4 bin 465-470nm XP-E2 blue from LEDgroupbuy.

 

RapidLED has also started selling 'ultra marine blue' 440-445nm SemiLEDs C35. I am a big fan of lower wavelength royals, their purplish cast is awesome, something I definitely miss from my first array from Steve's that used the same range for royal blue, before they switched to 450-455nm chips. I will be adding six of them to my royal blue channel (three in series per parallel string).

 

I've also ordered six blank 3up 3535 star PCB from LEDsupply so that I can reflow all of these LEDs onto 3up stars so that I have less to have to mount and solder

Very interested to see how those C35 LEDs look. Could be good for my 5 gallon anemone QT tank light plan, target color that of 20K Radium MH but with only 4 diodes (moonlight driver). Hmm...

[davidawiesner]

What temp vero are you running? I am in the middle of a build and have the 56k vero 18's and am running 2 luxeon k 16up's per for RB's and am about to order my blues and violets. I was wondering if I should go with one lime or two?

[jedimasterben]

Very interested to see how those C35 LEDs look. Could be good for my 5 gallon anemone QT tank light plan, target color that of 20K Radium MH but with only 4 diodes (moonlight driver). Hmm...

I'd recommend to go ahead and order a bunch of different LEDs and test out combinations to try and get the look you want, it's not quite something that anyone would be able to tell you outright - especially since very few people have seen a Radium 20K that isn't over/under driven on an improper ballast, so depending on what your thought on the look is then you might need a fuzz extra violet, or blue, or royal blue, etc

 

You will also really need one driver per color of LED to be able to match it with any ease, it will not be easy with four LEDs all at the same current.

 

What temp vero are you running? I am in the middle of a build and have the 56k vero 18's and am running 2 luxeon k 16up's per for RB's and am about to order my blues and violets. I was wondering if I should go with one lime or two?

I'm running Vero 18 4000K 90CRI. I use two lime at 700mA for each Vero 18 at 500mA.

[Halo_003]

I'd recommend to go ahead and order a bunch of different LEDs and test out combinations to try and get the look you want, it's not quite something that anyone would be able to tell you outright - especially since very few people have seen a Radium 20K that isn't over/under driven on an improper ballast, so depending on what your thought on the look is then you might need a fuzz extra violet, or blue, or royal blue, etc

 

You will also really need one driver per color of LED to be able to match it with any ease, it will not be easy with four LEDs all at the same current.

 

I'm running Vero 18 4000K 90CRI. I use two lime at 700mA for each Vero 18 at 500mA.

Yeah I don't expect a perfect match but I'm hoping to get it somewhat closl. If I have to I may just do it with 4 channels like you said, it wouldn't cost that much extra, it's the controller part that would cost extra. I just want a nice crisp color close to theRadium as I can get it.

[jedimasterben]

Yeah I don't expect a perfect match but I'm hoping to get it somewhat closl. If I have to I may just do it with 4 channels like you said, it wouldn't cost that much extra, it's the controller part that would cost extra. I just want a nice crisp color close to theRadium as I can get it.

Yeah, if you want close, you'll need to grab a bunch of LEDs and some LDD and go to town with trying different combinations and different currents for each. It's very time consuming, but it will be the only way to get where you want to be

[cichlidtx]

Looks really nice. Which Vero18 are you using? BXRC-40G4000-F-23? Thanks

[jedimasterben]

I think that's the one, 4000K 90CRI Vero 18.

[cichlidtx]

Thanks, I will order and start another fixture.

[jedimasterben]

Finally decided to go ahead and take the light to fix one blue 3up LED star that wasn't working. Turns out there wasn't enough solder under one of the LEDs, so I put a tiny bit on the pads and reflowed it on. Now to wait the four hours or so for the thermal epoxy to cure lol.

[jedimasterben]

oops

 

[evilc66]

You just can't leave well enough alone can you?

[Horerczy]

I'd say I'm surprised but that'd be a lie. XD

[jedimasterben]

You just can't leave well enough alone can you?

Hell no

 

I'd say I'm surprised but that'd be a lie. XD

 

Dave listens to feedback and he fixed the main problem I had and that was control over lime. They were pretty well balanced, but I wanted to tweak it just a bit and couldn't, and now I can.

 

Though, these won't be 'stock' arrays, thanks to Mouser for stocking the Luxeon C now I wish I was a bit more confident with reflowing, I'd love to swap out some of the whites with the 5700K 90CRI and see how they stack up, but the solder pads are too small, I messed some up the last time I tried reflowing some Luxeon T. :/

[HarryPotter]

Jedi you have so much LED stuff... Send me a retrofit for my 48" Sunpower to add some blues? Preferably would replace only 1 bulb. If 2 bulbs have to be removed I would need NanoBox pucks

 

Edit: I'll take 3.0 pucks rather than 3.1

[jedimasterben]

You'd need to also replace a T5 ballast to remove just one lamp, as the HEP ballasts used by ATI only support two lamps.

[HarryPotter]

You'd need to also replace a T5 ballast to remove just one lamp, as the HEP ballasts used by ATI only support two lamps.

Okay then let's do 2

[jedimasterben]

Okay then let's do 2

There are a few different kits you can do, but none of them can be done by another person. I would to take your sunpower apart a couple of times to get the feel for it and see how the components are laid out and such, and figure out where your holes will have to go for mounting a heatsink, drivers, etc. Actually putting a kit together is the easy part.

[evilc66]

Hell no

 

 

Dave listens to feedback and he fixed the main problem I had and that was control over lime. They were pretty well balanced, but I wanted to tweak it just a bit and couldn't, and now I can.

 

Though, these won't be 'stock' arrays, thanks to Mouser for stocking the Luxeon C now I wish I was a bit more confident with reflowing, I'd love to swap out some of the whites with the 5700K 90CRI and see how they stack up, but the solder pads are too small, I messed some up the last time I tried reflowing some Luxeon T. :/

If you think that's hard, try the Luxeon Z and Z ES. Now THAT'S small

[jedimasterben]

If you think that's hard, try the Luxeon Z and Z ES. Now THAT'S small

The Z isn't so bad, as it has just solder pads, but the Z ES has its dedicated thermal path and shrinks the other pads. Same pattern as the T and TX. Yuck.

[O2Surplus]

Ben

 

Just practice your soldering skills using 402 sized components. After you get good at doing those, any LED will appear absolutely huge in comparison. Lol