My Custom PicO

[Hexadron]

I've got an 18" heat sink from RapidLED and some royal blue and violet leds as well as a 700ma dimmable driver all cree of course. I put 1 neutral white led on it and I think it's plenty with 2 RB, 2 violet, and 1 NW. I've got 60 degree optics but they don't stay on so I'll figured that out later or just hang it low enough. It really gets bright driven at 700 which is max for the violets but the others can go up to 1500. Note if you ever buy LEDs, get 1 of each extra because I always do something stupid and end up frying one which screws my plans up. I planned on putting 2 NWs but lost one of them. If I ever add another NW, I'll need another RB because I love the color as it is. I previously fried a RB and a Violet months ago because I wasn't paying attention to what I was doing after work on no sleep. LOL And that was the day I tried using old solder that wasn't the right stuff for the job and only added to my frustration. A DIY LED setup is really quite easy just make sure you pay attention to what your doing LOL!

 

I'm not brave enough for DIY anything yet. Well, I do have a project in progress for a moonlight, which I have 90% of what I need, but it's something I haven't really seen done before, so we'll see how that goes

 

Good tip on the ordering extras. I pretty much got double everything, plus some stuff I probably don't need, but i'm sure i'll use at some point! Don't we always?

 

For filtration, I've got an AC70 but it came in cracked so I'm waiting for a new one. For heat, I've got a 25w old heater. My 75w Eheim is on back order from Amazon, but I don't care because if I order it elsewhere it would cost me an extra $10 between added price and shipping. Surely if I place an order somewhere else I'd just order it there but for now I'll leave it on back order. I need 75w due to the cold temp in my basement. For flow... I'm assuming the AC70 will have plenty of flow. For now I have an air stone to get it through the cycle. Remember how the pods first appeared in my frag tank. I wonder if it had something to do with the air stone and gas exchange or it was just coincidence. I think I'll run a small amount of carbon & GFO in a media bag as well as floss in the AC70.

 

Nice! I haven't used an AC since my first FW fish tank over 10 years ago! I can't recall how loud/silent they are, but I also just ordered one too, only the AC50 as it was on sale

 

They seem to be tried and true though, as so many people use them!

 

I could see why you need a beefier heater for the basement. my tank will be in the same room as Nitoralis, which is always fairly constant temperature wise.

 

That's an interesting theory on the pods. I suppose the extra oxygen exchange could very well have something to do with it! I'm going to have to get some pods here next time i head to the LFS. Maybe get some chaeto loaded with some.

 

The AC70 should have somewhere around 300gph flow, which is awesome for a tank that size.

 

I currently have live sand in the bottom which I only put their until I fully decided how much sand was going in my PicO. For now, I'll leave it there but sooner or later I'll go bare bottom. I also have 1 extra piece of live rock that didn't make it in my PicO. After all, I wanted an extra piece for my frag tank as everyone told me that you need something in there for filtration.

 

Makes sense to have some in there for filtration, especially if you plan on having it run all the time. I need to figure out how much will suffice for me. As mine is a bit more QT oriented, I want a completely bare bottom. I have tons of rock, which I will have to seed form my main tank beforehand, but I really have no clue how much 'rubble' would suffice for a 5.5g?

 

I have the acrylic to cut the lid as well as the stuff to hang the light. I will probably do that tomorrow. The lid is so important as I don't want evaporation and I want to keep the heat in. Perhaps down the line I'll pick up a used ATO because now that I'm spoiled I never want to top off again but it would be a cheap used unit, not a top of the line model like my Tunze. If I couldn't get something used and complete for $50 I'd probably get a Tunze Nano. For now I plan on mark the water line on the side of the tank and top off that way but I need to wait until I get my AC70 running, as well as have it low enough I can put my hands in the tank without overflowing. The goal would be to be able to move a frag from 1 tank to the other w/o acclimation. I may dip between but I also don't see this necessarily as the initial dip covers most things.

 

Can't wait to see the lid. How geeky? I like lids okay...

 

Evap is a concern indeed. Smart thinking on the water level. I'll keep that in mind for mine too! haha.

 

Also, I may drop new corals into the frag tank for a week of observation but in no way am I planning on QT all corals. This observation period is more so to detect problems such as nuisance algae more than anything. Perhaps it would have saved me from bryopsis like in my other tank. I've been known to purchase extremely cool corals that have exposure to questionable things. lol I have plently of white egg crate. I doubt I'll spend the $15 bucks for a sheet of back egg crate from BRS unless my frag guy wants to cut me a section just to be nice. Don't show me those threads where white egg crate leaches phosphates or something like that. The reality is that white egg crate is more prone to algae only because it reflects light. I'd like to point out that this is going to be a low maintenance, easy keeping frag tank. This is NOT a display frag tank and I don't plan on treating it like one which is why it's in my basement. If it becomes a chore to keep it running then it will surely be shut down. I have enough on my hands and it will only get busier as summer approaches.

 

I think a week is a good time. That gives you time to dip, inspect and let it settle a bit beforehand. Also get used to LED's since it may have come from another light source such as T5's or MH

 

I wouldn't dare say that about eggcrate. There is so much misinformation throughout forums. Just someone looking to blame something, when it comes down to they were overfeeding LOL.

 

I started this post earlier, fired up the grill, had a few beers, now just finished it. Did I miss anything?

 

Hah, no worries, I do that sometimes too with my longer ones. You didn't miss a thing! Oh wait, is your Frag Tank going to be 5 or 10 gallon?

[Mstefa1]

5.5g baby. lol In looking at the Aquaclear, I think they are cheaply made (they are cheap after all) and the thin plastic doesn't look like it will hold up to much abuse. After seeing mine arrive with the cracked bottom from the factory worker installing the pump, I'd be concerned with even taking it apart to clean it.

 

I have my RB set to 1% for a few hours for moonlighting. I really like it. If I want a little more dynamics, I might have the regular blue on at 1% with the RB, then the RB, then nothing.... I'm really loving sunrise / sunset.

 

With the lid it's easy to cut straight lines however I have to make a cut out for the AC70 and make it perfect to keep a good fit to minimize heat loss or evaporation. I guess we will see how it turns out! lol

 

Most of my corals will probably from my Aquapod under MH lighting or from my frag guy under Chinese LEDs.

[Hexadron]

5.5g baby. lol In looking at the Aquaclear, I think they are cheaply made (they are cheap after all) and the thin plastic doesn't look like it will hold up to much abuse. After seeing mine arrive with the cracked bottom from the factory worker installing the pump, I'd be concerned with even taking it apart to clean it.

 

I have my RB set to 1% for a few hours for moonlighting. I really like it. If I want a little more dynamics, I might have the regular blue on at 1% with the RB, then the RB, then nothing.... I'm really loving sunrise / sunset.

 

With the lid it's easy to cut straight lines however I have to make a cut out for the AC70 and make it perfect to keep a good fit to minimize heat loss or evaporation. I guess we will see how it turns out! lol

 

Most of my corals will probably from my Aquapod under MH lighting or from my frag guy under Chinese LEDs.

 

Hey at least the 5.5 will be super easy for waterchanges

 

I tried mine at 1% for moonlighting (Just blue channel) and it's far too bright. I just want enough so it's dark in the tank, with nice blue outlines of the corals/rocks and so the fish don't completely freak

 

Best of luck with the lid. I know you'll do a great job though. I just don't have the space to be a handy man. I'll have to call my brother for that lol.

[Mstefa1]

I think the thermostat on my little 25w heater is broken and the only reason my frag tank is holding temperature is due to it running all the time and the cold temp in my basement. lol I just cancelled my heater from Amazon and ordered one from DRsFosterSmith. Let's hope fortunate holds up until it arrives.

[Hexadron]

I think the thermostat on my little 25w heater is broken and the only reason my frag tank is holding temperature is due to it running all the time and the cold temp in my basement. lol I just cancelled my heater from Amazon and ordered one from DRsFosterSmith. Let's hope fortunate holds up until it arrives.

 

Wishing you the best with your heater!

 

Which heater did you end up ordering from DrsFosterSmith?

[bobssecrtsn]

very nice write up, id like to see what it reads on my tank as my hannah phosphate checker gives me 0.00 consistently.

The regular Hanna Phosphate checker isnt really good for people that keep SPS mainly because we want to keep our phosphate around .02 - .04. Phosphorous will actually measure phosphate in Parts Per Billion as with regular hanna checker its only Parts Per Million. <--- its good for LPS though

 

on a side note on removing the reagent. you can pack it down to a corner and then cut a L shap around the outer edges to create something like a funnel and then pour it into the vile . also if you want to retest it you can pour 10ml of tank water into the other vile and use that till you hit C2 then put the one with the reagent in. and then press for 3 seconds. just a thought if you didnt know!

[Mstefa1]

Wishing you the best with your heater!

 

Which heater did you end up ordering from DrsFosterSmith?

 

Same. Eheim Jager 75w. Large heater for such a tiny tank but it is probably in the fifties in my basement.

[Mstefa1]

The regular Hanna Phosphate checker isnt really good for people that keep SPS mainly because we want to keep our phosphate around .02 - .04. Phosphorous will actually measure phosphate in Parts Per Billion as with regular hanna checker its only Parts Per Million. <--- its good for LPS though

 

on a side note on removing the reagent. you can pack it down to a corner and then cut a L shap around the outer edges to create something like a funnel and then pour it into the vile . also if you want to retest it you can pour 10ml of tank water into the other vile and use that till you hit C2 then put the one with the reagent in. and then press for 3 seconds. just a thought if you didnt know!

 

Very nice info. What did you mean by retesting? When I test I use the one cuvette w/ tank water only to zero and one cuvette with reagent. Are you suggesting to use the same cuvette to zero and test? I understand what you mean by using the other cuvette to re-zero but can you retest with the same sample? I thought that once it sat for a few moments it would affect the test result.

[bobssecrtsn]

the vile with the reagent can last about 10 minutes, from what Hanna told me, and it takes me about 4 minutes to finish the first test.

So as an example.

1. i fill 10ml of tank water to both of the viles close and clean off fingerprints.

2. pack the reagent down and cut a L shape on the outer edges and get the stopwatch ready

3. put one vile in the checker. go through C1. then C2. start stopwatch, add reagent (try and get all of it) i almost all of it out by flicking the bottom.

4 gently flip the vile continuously for 1minute and 30 seconds clean the vile of fingerprints

5 hold down for 3 seconds, take reading.

6 after (5) is done get the vile with the clean tank water, push till you get to C2. when you get to C2 add the vile with the reagents in. then hold down for 3 seconds, and then take readings.

 

always make sure there are no fingerprints on the vile!

[Mstefa1]

the vile with the reagent can last about 10 minutes, from what Hanna told me, and it takes me about 4 minutes to finish the first test.

So as an example.

1. i fill 10ml of tank water to both of the viles close and clean off fingerprints.

2. pack the reagent down and cut a L shape on the outer edges and get the stopwatch ready

3. put one vile in the checker. go through C1. then C2. start stopwatch, add reagent (try and get all of it) i almost all of it out by flicking the bottom.

4 gently flip the vile continuously for 1minute and 30 seconds clean the vile of fingerprints

5 hold down for 3 seconds, take reading.

6 after (5) is done get the vile with the clean tank water, push till you get to C2. when you get to C2 add the vile with the reagents in. then hold down for 3 seconds, and then take readings.

 

always make sure there are no fingerprints on the vile!

 

Thanks! Your making me want to get my meter out and play some more. I'm going to wait and let the GFO do it's thing then test again soon like a good boy.

[bobssecrtsn]

Thanks! Your making me want to get my meter out and play some more. I'm going to wait and let the GFO do it's thing then test again soon like a good boy.

 

Haha it is actually fun to use the meter, not that much time comsuming either, and the way i use it i always get a +/-5 as the direction states so i know the reagent that i have is good.

[Mstefa1]

My cycle is officially over!

 

I just did a full panel with the following results...

 

PH 8.0

Ammonia: 0.0

Nitrite: 0.0

Nitrate: 20

 

And since I always think that the API ammonia test always contains a slight green hue to it I tested it against a control, which was my Aquapod and the colors were identical so I'm confident my result is 0.0. And if you remember my Nitrite test from before was clearly a vibrant purple, this time the color remained blue.

 

While I'm actually very surprised by this data, I've never actually tested my tanks throughout the entire cycle. The only reason I am now is because I'm logging this in great detail. Normally I set the tank up and forget about it for 3-4 weeks. I'd also like to note that I did use live sand (as always) and my giant LFS has the largest live rock setup I've ever seen consisting of about 10 giant bins all connected to a large filtration system so I'm sure that the bins already possessed all of the necessary bacteria.

 

I tested my phosphate level with my Salifert kit and it was very hard to read. Perhaps my lighting wasn't perfect but who knows. I believe it to be either 0.1ppm or 0.25ppm, and it doesn't distinguish between either way. I also tested it with my new phosphorous Hanna Checker. The result was 90ppb, which converts to 0.28ppm phosphate. I retested it with the same sample like Bob suggested above, however my kids distracted me and I missed the reading and the checker automatically shut off. I figured I'd test it again just for the heck of it with the same sample receiving a 73ppb, or 0.22ppm phosphate, but by this time the sample sat for probably 10 minutes since I originally prepared it so I consider that test invalid.

 

I've seen a very nice reduction in phosphates already with only a water change and the addition of GFO in a very short peroid. So how do we proceed to lower nitrates and phosphate some more? Another water change and a fresh infusion of GFO. Time for me to get back to work!

[Hexadron]

My cycle is officially over!

 

I just did a full panel with the following results...

 

PH 8.0

Ammonia: 0.0

Nitrite: 0.0

Nitrate: 20

 

And since I always think that the API ammonia test always contains a slight green hue to it I tested it against a control, which was my Aquapod and the colors were identical so I'm confident my result is 0.0. And if you remember my Nitrite test from before was clearly a vibrant purple, this time the color remained blue.

 

While I'm actually very surprised by this data, I've never actually tested my tanks throughout the entire cycle. The only reason I am now is because I'm logging this in great detail. Normally I set the tank up and forget about it for 3-4 weeks. I'd also like to note that I did use live sand (as always) and my giant LFS has the largest live rock setup I've ever seen consisting of about 10 giant bins all connected to a large filtration system so I'm sure that the bins already possessed all of the necessary bacteria.

 

I tested my phosphate level with my Salifert kit and it was very hard to read. Perhaps my lighting wasn't perfect but who knows. I believe it to be either 0.1ppm or 0.25ppm, and it doesn't distinguish between either way. I also tested it with my new phosphorous Hanna Checker. The result was 90ppb, which converts to 0.28ppm phosphate. I retested it with the same sample like Bob suggested above, however my kids distracted me and I missed the reading and the checker automatically shut off. I figured I'd test it again just for the heck of it with the same sample receiving a 73ppb, or 0.22ppm phosphate, but by this time the sample sat for probably 10 minutes since I originally prepared it so I consider that test invalid.

 

I've seen a very nice reduction in phosphates already with only a water change and the addition of GFO in a very short peroid. So how do we proceed to lower nitrates and phosphate some more? Another water change and a fresh infusion of GFO. Time for me to get back to work!

 

Congrats! I hope this doesn't sound like a lamo noob qustion, but goes GFO help with Nitrates as well, or only Phosphates?

 

Are you planning on a CUC to be added right away?

[Mstefa1]

Congrats! I hope this doesn't sound like a lamo noob qustion, but goes GFO help with Nitrates as well, or only Phosphates?

 

Are you planning on a CUC to be added right away?

 

Thanks!

 

GFO is for phosphates only. The water change should reduce both nitrates and phosphates.

 

No CUC as there is nothing in there but pods. You know my frag guy posted on Facebook he has a few pistols & yashas! So tempting... Still concerned about the high phosphate level. I need to see if the phosphate level drops off and stabilizes or if it is coming from something. I should be able to eliminate all phosphates since there is no feeding. I figured my first inhabitant would be a victim zoa frag. Who knows, maybe I'll entertain myself tonight.

[Mstefa1]

So you remember a week and a half ago my frag tank started out looking like this...

 

 

 

Wait for it, wait for it!

[Mstefa1]

I haven't felt great the past 3 days so I skipped the gym tonight which really sucks. At least since I wasted the entire morning half dead I've been productive the rest of the day. I finished up my frag tank tonight with a little help from my buddy!

 

 

Remember that this is going in my basement and it's not a display frag tank by any means so I considered that when I made my decisions.

 

 

 

 

Here is a top down shot where you can see my acrylic lid I just cut, as well as the heat sink and hanging hardware. The center eyehook is so that I can easily raise the light to get inside the tank. The AC70 is not currently running because it arrived cracked but the new one is in transit.

 

I used eyehooks on both the heat sink and the ceiling and strung it up with 40lb picture wire. The power wire goes up to the ceiling concealed in the wire wrap to the right of the heat sink but currently just drops along the back wall to the driver. The driver is dimmable and this thing gets bright! It's running 1NW, 2RB, & 2V on a 700w dimmable driver. Don't even ask me about optics or I would probably kill myself. I might have to borrow my clubs PAR meter. I'm guessing I could cook a few corals under here. My new heater has been shipped and as soon as my replacement AC70 gets here I'll be removing the air stone. I plan to mark the side of the glass with the water level but if it gets to be to much of a hassle then I'll get a cheap or used ATO. This thing needs to be self sustaining so hopefully I can just toss on some coral smoothie to feed and change the water on occasion. I haven't decided if the frags that go in here are going to be well fed but I'm thinking NO to reduce cleaning / water changes. I'll probably be ditching the sand soon.

[supermarvin76]

I haven't felt great the past 3 days so I skipped the gym tonight which really sucks. At least since I wasted the entire morning half dead I've been productive the rest of the day. I finished up my frag tank tonight with a little help from my buddy!

 

 

Remember that this is going in my basement and it's not a display frag tank by any means so I considered that when I made my decisions.

 

 

 

 

Here is a top down shot where you can see my acrylic lid I just cut, as well as the heat sink and hanging hardware. The center eyehook is so that I can easily raise the light to get inside the tank. The AC70 is not currently running because it arrived cracked but the new one is in transit.

 

I used eyehooks on both the heat sink and the ceiling and strung it up with 40lb picture wire. The power wire goes up to the ceiling concealed in the wire wrap to the right of the heat sink but currently just drops along the back wall to the driver. The driver is dimmable and this thing gets bright! It's running 1NW, 2RB, & 2V on a 700w dimmable driver. Don't even ask me about optics or I would probably kill myself. I might have to borrow my clubs PAR meter. I'm guessing I could cook a few corals under here. My new heater has been shipped and as soon as my replacement AC70 gets here I'll be removing the air stone. I plan to mark the side of the glass with the water level but if it gets to be to much of a hassle then I'll get a cheap or used ATO. This thing needs to be self sustaining so hopefully I can just toss on some coral smoothie to feed and change the water on occasion. I haven't decided if the frags that go in here are going to be well fed but I'm thinking NO to reduce cleaning / water changes. I'll probably be ditching the sand soon.

 

 

That is awesome! I remember 'helping' my dad with his tanks whenI was your son's age. Sweet times man! Better than gold!

 

When are you adding your CUC?

[Mstefa1]

That is awesome! I remember 'helping' my dad with his tanks whenI was your son's age. Sweet times man! Better than gold!

 

When are you adding your CUC?

 

Why the rush? There is nothing to clean up! I've got some crud which was die off on the live rock but I've been busy hitting that with a turkey baster and letting the overflows do the work. If CUC becomes an issue I'll just borrow a few victims from my other tank.

[Hexadron]

Haha, your helper looks quiet pleased with the work you two achieved!

 

I have to say, it looks great. I really like how the fixture you created is the exact width of the tank. A match made in heaven!

[Mstefa1]

Ai just announced the nano in black. Anybody want to trade? They won't have a conversion kit butu can send it to them and they will convert it for $50. for that i would have just bought the sol in black.

[Hexadron]

Ai just announced the nano in black. Anybody want to trade? They won't have a conversion kit butu can send it to them and they will convert it for $50. for that i would have just bought the sol in black.

 

What the- Where did they announce this?

[Mstefa1]

 

What the- Where did they announce this?

Facebook my friend.

[Hexadron]

Facebook my friend.

 

Oh, ya I never go to Facebook

 

So they say "Now Available" but does that mean like shipping next week, or like in 6 months from now

[Mstefa1]

Oh, ya I never go to Facebook

 

So they say "Now Available" but does that mean like shipping next week, or like in 6 months from now

 

I skipped out on Facebook forever even though I'm an IT guy. Then when I finally joined I was rebellious and refused to accept friend requests for over a year. Now I'm a regular player on my smart phone mostly sharing family experiences.

 

Based upon their previous habits I'd say it actually means now available however that doesn't mean retailers have them yet.

 

U guys should trust me more. Remember how I said I don't normally test parameters during the cycle? Well things are going as planned, just a little faster then planned. We went from die off to pods and today I have diatoms. I so told you to just let nature take it's course and watch for the obvious signs. But that is with live rock. I can't say for those with dry rock. Hell, there is a thread right now about people peeing in their tanks.

[Hexadron]

U guys should trust me more. Remember how I said I don't normally test parameters during the cycle? Well things are going as planned, just a little faster then planned. We went from die off to pods and today I have diatoms. I so told you to just let nature take it's course and watch for the obvious signs. But that is with live rock. I can't say for those with dry rock. Hell, there is a thread right now about people peeing in their tanks.

 

I know what you mean. I have been wanting to test too, but have followed suit and I am waiting at least a week before testing again. At least you know your cycle is complete, so for you it's just Phoshates you want to test for right?

 

Haha, I seen the thing about people "How much should I pee in my tank?" LOL. Ugh, that's nasty.