Carinya Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 K I finally got an appropriately sized pump (AC 2000) and was able to hook it up today. Looks much, much better. Hopefully we'll get some skimmate as it breaks in over the next few days. Thanks again for the help & for putting this DIY together in the first place. C Link to comment
RP Beesh Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 Originally posted by ojyarumaru Can you pleaase list all the materials needed for this project? I really want a skimmer without burning a hole in my wallet. note: Is this project hard, because it's the first DIY I'm doing. I'm referring to this one: Thank you! come on and read the thread all the materal is listed. and ps this is a ez and cheap diy project Link to comment
taekwondodo Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 My UTR Skimmer. A little wider and higher... Thanks for the good read. - Jeff Link to comment
ojyarumaru Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 I made a list for the materials. -3 x CPVC Pipe 1/2" -CPVC Cap 1/2" -2x CPVC O Rings 1/2” -3x CPVC Elbow 1/2" -Outlet 1/2" tubing -Skimmate drain tube (Airline tubing) -Acrylic pieces (ALL 1/8” thickness): (1) 1” x 1.5” (1) 1” x 5” (1) 1” x 10” (1) 1” x 2” (2) 1.25” x 2.5” (2) 1” x 14” (2) 14” x 2.5” -Hanging brackets -Drill (dremel) unless done at hardware store -Weldon 16 Is that it? I went to a local hardware store, and I bought the CPVC cap, elbow, outlet tubing, drain tube, all the acrylic pieces listed, and hanging brackets. The store didn't carry a pipe of CPVC or the O rings (I'll have to go to another store). I'll check for weldon 16 local or online as a last resort. Also, I asked the store if they drill, and they said no. How much does it cost for the drilling? Link to comment
RP Beesh Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 Originally posted by Undertheradar Well, since you cant attach JPEG images directly to RC any more, I will stick to keeping it here at NR. I will be doing a step-by-step and making a new thread (possibly a sticky?) on the final design (injection and venturi) and how to make it. I am in the planning stages for that so I can slap it up all at once and be complete. so how is it going with makeing the thread? IT WILL BE STICKY to the touch hahahahahah Link to comment
RP Beesh Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 Originally posted by ojyarumaru I made a list for the materials. -3 x CPVC Pipe 1/2" -CPVC Cap 1/2" -2x CPVC O Rings 1/2” -3x CPVC Elbow 1/2" -Outlet 1/2" tubing -Skimmate drain tube (Airline tubing) -Acrylic pieces (ALL 1/8” thickness): (1) 1” x 1.5” (1) 1” x 5” (1) 1” x 10” (1) 1” x 2” (2) 1.25” x 2.5” (2) 1” x 14” (2) 14” x 2.5” -Hanging brackets -Drill (dremel) unless done at hardware store -Weldon 16 Is that it? I went to a local hardware store, and I bought the CPVC cap, elbow, outlet tubing, drain tube, all the acrylic pieces listed, and hanging brackets. The store didn't carry a pipe of CPVC or the O rings (I'll have to go to another store). I'll check for weldon 16 local or online as a last resort. Also, I asked the store if they drill, and they said no. How much does it cost for the drilling? i would get weldon 4 it give you enough time to adjust. weldon 16 you have to hold it in place much longer than weldon 4. but for fast jointing with liitle adjustment get weldon 3. forgot the website but it tapplastic.com just do the search it will come up. Link to comment
doody Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Can someone give me the correct distance between the wall of the skimmer and the baffle tips I have circled? I am talkin bout the injector style on pg 13 Link to comment
doody Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 C'mon guys. I'm in the middle of glueing this thing together. I read the whole thread and either missed this or was blind from looking at the screen. Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I would make the top area you have circled about 1/2" to 3/4" wide. The bottom is unimportant, as it is just important to make the area just to the right of it...where the injector lets out the mixture, about 1/8-1/4" wide. Link to comment
reefeiro Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Taekwondodo Could you please take pics a little more closer? I need to see the bubbles size. I can´t get small bubbles, they are 2mm diameter ou higher. What is wrong? What is the injector holes size? 1mm? 2mm? How many holes did you used? Thank you A LOT! Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 As soon as classes are over next week I can spend some time on this to finish it up. Not alot more to do, but my electrical engineering classes are taking up all my concentration right now. I just cant clear my head enough to finish the thread. Link to comment
doody Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Thanks UTR! BTW, thanks for putting so much time and effort into this. Really helps us noobs out. Now to be a P.I.T.A. one more time. I added a third circle on the very bottom baffle. What is either the angle of that baffle or the distance between it and the left wall? Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 FWIW, I would leave that bottom 'bubble baffle' out all together. I have tinkered around and found it to be more of a drawback for various reasons. So on the chart, that 1"x2" baffle (noted in blue), just gets left out. Link to comment
doody Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Does'nt it block bubbles from getting to the outlet back to the tank? Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Well, that was the point and all, but it seems on this scale it doesnt really do much. And FWIW, if you ever convert it to an asperating style input, the baffle can trap enough bubbles under it (pinned between the baffle and the downforce of the water trying to get through as the bubbles combine into one large bubble) to block up flow and make the skimmer overflow. I got rid of it and noticed little difference. Link to comment
taekwondodo Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Originally posted by Undertheradar I got rid of it and noticed little difference. I have to laugh - I got the whole thing put together and then looked at it. Something looked funny....and I had an extra piece left over. Bun of a sitch! I forgot to put in the bottom diverter! I stayed awake for HOURS that night trying to figure out the best way to get it in there - and was successful. I also noticed when I had really big holes in my injector, it would trap bubbles and thennnnn... buuurrppp. I think the "burp" was the reason I was having problems making foam. Once I down-sized the injector, I got almost the same amount of bubbles (four holes @5/32") without them being trapped by the bottom diverter. Then I noticed that it wasn't really doing anything and that I probibly didn't need it. This was a real fun project... a little frustrating because I spaced off the diverter and then had to engineer it back in (I is an EE to, UTR), but overall, fun. I still have some (quite a bit, actually) plexi left over... If someone would like one built (say, for $45 + shipping)... PM me and I can use up the rest of what I have. - Jeff Link to comment
doody Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 By aspertating you mean the new venturi design, right? and What does FWIW mean? Taek, that's some funny stuff. Link to comment
ojyarumaru Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Which weldon should you suggest. I really don't care about the time to dry. I just want a really strong bond, and no leaks. I've heard that weldon 16 is thicker, which makes it a stronger bond? Someone please tell me, b/c i'm getting the weldon tomomrow @ a local plastic store. Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 doody, I mean the version where the air gets sucked into the pump to make bubbles, not injected with little holes to make bubbles. In this case, a single 1/2" hole is made as there is no injection going on, and no back pressure is desired. The prior version is an 'injection' system like an AquaC...the more recent one is an 'asperating venturi' like a euroreef. FWIW = for what its worth ojyarumaru, weldon 3 is all I use now. If you have leaks or just want to reinforce the edges, you can apply weldon 16 to the inside corners. Link to comment
oven Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Is anybody selling these diy style skimmers? i heard people weren't able to sell them premade cause of patented designs. however, is anyone selling these things half completed? like the patented part from aquaC not installed yet, but everything else done. that would be considered legal, as it is not being sold as a skimmer, but as various acrylic parts. just like how people chop front clips off of cars to import them, and then weld them once they are here. anybody? Link to comment
doody Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Originally posted by oven Is anybody selling these diy style skimmers? i heard people weren't able to sell them premade cause of patented designs. however, is anyone selling these things half completed? like the patented part from aquaC not installed yet, but everything else done. that would be considered legal, as it is not being sold as a skimmer, but as various acrylic parts. just like how people chop front clips off of cars to import them, and then weld them once they are here. anybody? http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...4277#post504277 If his is sold, I'll make you one. Link to comment
ojyarumaru Posted May 14, 2005 Share Posted May 14, 2005 Thanks for the reply. Is weldon 16 thicker than 3? My acrylic cuttings aren't super precise, so I want to fill the space (if I get any space) between the acrylic pieces. Link to comment
lgreen Posted May 14, 2005 Share Posted May 14, 2005 Originally posted by Undertheradar ojyarumaru, weldon 3 is all I use now. If you have leaks or just want to reinforce the edges, you can apply weldon 16 to the inside corners. yes, 16 is thicker than 3 significantly Link to comment
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