THE OFFICIAL ASK ALBERT THIEL THREAD

October 2, 2012

A Coral Reef Aquarium - 800 gallons - From Holland

Video Link :

Albert

October 2, 2012

Hi Albert,

I have just removed as much as I can get at of the C.serrulata from my tank. here's a couple of pic's of it.

Firstly the amount I was able to remove.

Close up of some of it.

October 2, 2012

Hi Albert,
I have just removed as much as I can get at of the C.serrulata from my tank. here's a couple of pic's of it.

Firstly the amount I was able to remove.

Wow Les you sure did a good job at getting that C. serrulata out of your tank as the picture above shows, that is a BUNCH indeed.

Is that just about all that was in there ? Manual removal with your hands, or did you use a "tool", like thongs?

Now if you put it in another tank maybe you can grow some and sell it ... :-) but not sure about how many hobbyists would buy it although some with FOWLR tanks may want some "green" in their tanks and some food maybe for herbivorous fish that eat that Caulerpa ... so far I only found Rabbit Fish eating it but there may be more.

Great job and thanks for posting those pics ....

On another note: is there anyone in the US who sells that LED lighting you use? Maybe the seller you got it from knows, and if he does can you let me know. Thanks.

Did you check those videos on the Crown of Thorn Starfish ... man .. that things gets large ... and in one of the videos I could see it moving real fast .. I did not think it could, but apparently it does.

I think I may have a Yuma that is growing underneath a larger one as I posted yesterday ... here is a pic of what it looks like today :

The green is some form of coralline algae as I have it in other places and over time it turns pinkish, but there seems to be some mat algae as well. I guess I'll have to remove the rock and gently scrub that off and that will tell me what it is, if it does come off ... if not then it has to be coralline ...

Anyway ... great shots of what you took out ...

Albert

Edited October 2, 2012 by albertthiel

October 2, 2012

The Chemical and Biochemical Mechanisms of Calcification

All reef aquarists are versed in the fact that such organisms remove calcium and carbonate from the water column in order to provide materials for calcification.

Exactly how calcification takes place, however, is rarely considered.

A very detailed article on the processes ....

LINK:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/4/chemistry

Albert

October 2, 2012

Electricity and the Reef, A Shocking Way to Repair Coral Ecosystems

Do not attempt anything of what is described in this 3 Part Article at home ! This is a very detailed series of articles and sheds new light (pun intended) on novel and not so ordinary techniques that can be used!

Part I : http://tinyurl.com/393ssr7

Part II : http://tinyurl.com/9cjn5je

Part III : http://tinyurl.com/9m6de23

Albert

October 2, 2012

Wow Les you sure did a good job at getting that C. serrulata out of your tank as the picture above shows, that is a BUNCH indeed.

Is that just about all that was in there ? Manual removal with your hands, or did you use a "tool", like thongs?

All done by hand and no there was no way I could get it all out but I guess I got 80% of it out.

G

great job and thanks for posting those pics ....

Thanks and I think I will have to continue to remove it manually for many months to come but it only took me a few minutes. The problem may come as more and more become more difficult to get at.

On another note: is there anyone in the US who sells that LED lighting you use? Maybe the seller you got it from knows, and if he does can you let me know. Thanks.

There is Albert however you will be charged considerably more for one at an LFS. I will PM you details following this post. BTW they are now using 8k LED's in place of the 15k I have as they say they produce better growth in corals, they still have the blue LED's to supplement them though.

Did you check those videos on the Crown of Thorn Starfish ... man .. that things gets large ... and in one of the videos I could see it moving real fast .. I did not think it could, but apparently it does.

Yep and I have seen many such including reef programmes shown on TV here in the UK

I think I may have a Yuma that is growing underneath a larger one as I posted yesterday ... here is a pic of what it looks like today :

The green is some form of coralline algae as I have it in other places and over time it turns pinkish, but there seems to be some mat algae as well. I guess I'll have to remove the rock and gently scrub that off and that will tell me what it is, if it does come off ... if not then it has to be coralline ...

Yeah it would appear to be the case good luck with it and I hope it continues to thrive for you.

Anyway ... great shots of what you took out ...

Albert

Thanks, I hope harvesting it doesn't become a chore.

Les.

October 2, 2012

All done by hand and no there was no way I could get it all out but I guess I got 80% of it out.

G

Thanks and I think I will have to continue to remove it manually for many months to come but it only took me a few minutes. The problem may come as more and more become more difficult to get at.

There is Albert however you will be charged considerably more for one at an LFS. I will PM you details following this post. BTW they are now using 8k LED's in place of the 15k I have as they say they produce better growth in corals, they still have the blue LED's to supplement them though.

Yep and I have seen many such including reef programmes shown on TV here in the UK

Yeah it would appear to be the case good luck with it and I hope it continues to thrive for you.

Thanks, I hope harvesting it doesn't become a chore.

Les.

Thanks for all the responses to my questions and statements .... I 'll check for your PM whenever you get a chance to send it out.

On the Yuma ... I guess only time will tell what happens. Hopefully it will make it.

On the Caulerpa: I agree that it will take time to get rid of it all and a lot more manual removal when its size is large enough for you to pull it out.

You may want to squirt some H2O2 on the areas where there may still be some left ... just my thoughts ..

Albert

October 2, 2012

Pictures of my Tank Taken This Afternoon

Albert

October 2, 2012

Effects of Lowered pH and Elevated Nitrate on Coral Calcification

A Technical article on a study performed to measure the results of the indicated parameters

Link:

http://www.int-res.com/articles/meps/188/m188p117.pdf

Albert

October 2, 2012

Thin birdsnest coral (Seriatopora hystrix)

Link :

http://www.arkive.org/thin-birdsnest-coral...topora-hystrix/

Albert

October 2, 2012

In the News: Great Barrier Reef loses half its coral cover over a few decades

42 % attributed to the massive destruction inflicted by the Crown of Thorn Starfish

Link: http://tinyurl.com/9vw49gw

Albert

October 2, 2012

Influence of the Quantity and Quality of Light on Photosynthetic Periodicity

in Coral Endosymbiotic Algae

Symbiotic corals, which are benthic organisms intimately linked with their environment, have evolved many ways to deal with fluctuations in the local marine environment.

One possible coping mechanism is the endogenous circadian clock, which is characterized as free running, maintaining a ~24 h periodicity of circuits under constant stimuli or in the absence of external cues.

The quantity and quality of light were found to be the most influential factors governing the endogenous clock for plants and algae.

Link: http://tinyurl.com/9ryzmss

Albert

Edited October 3, 2012 by albertthiel

October 3, 2012

General Information on Flowerpot corals (Goniopora spp.)

The appearance of this pretty coral belies its aggressive behaviour. Many individual coral polyps, (anemone-like animals that secrete a skeleton), form colonies which join together at the base of their skeletons.

These colonies grow to form branches, columns, solid colonies that are dome-shaped, or colonies that adhere close to the substrate.

Colonies may be meters across and sometimes whole sections of a reef face are covered exclusively by one branching Goniopora species.

One Goniopora species, daisy coral, is named for its extremely large, flower-like polyps, and can grow to cover areas of six to ten ...

Link: http://tinyurl.com/8wpdlao

Albert

Edited October 3, 2012 by albertthiel

October 3, 2012

General Info on the Yellowbar Angelfish (Pomacanthus maculosus)

Juvenile Pomacanthus maculosus (© Wikipedia)

Also known as the:

Halfmoon Angelfish, Yellowband Angelfish, Yellow-Blotch Angelfish, Yellow-Marked Angelfish.

Great for a FOWLR tank, not for a reef, unless in a very large system (1000 gallons + according to some sources). G. Smit (Holland) used to keep several large Angels in a 800 gallon mixed aquarium in the early 90's from what I remember.

Large Angel fish can also be difficult to keep alive and thriving for long periods of time, meaning years and years, and unless the tank is large (very in most cases) fighting among spp. will occur. Many also loose their striking colors in adulthood, and juveniles look totally different than adults, as most of you know.

Splendid fish but not for the beginner. Also, adults command a "high" price (several hundred dollars and even more for certain species).

Link to more info: http://tinyurl.com/8j29b9b

This one bears a striking resemblance to the: (© Wikipedia) Asfur Angel

Albert

Edited October 3, 2012 by albertthiel

October 3, 2012

Another Beautiful Angel: Apolemichthys xanthotis

Another great looking Angel. Not as difficult to keep in a FOWLR tank, but due to its geo. origin many come in "very" stressed.

Link to more pictures of Adults and Juveniles (© wetwebmedia)

http://tinyurl.com/9h88tjb

Albert

October 3, 2012

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters in great detail

Aquarists often ask what water parameter levels make for a successful reef aquarium.

This article gathers these recommendations in one place, showing them in tables, as well as the corresponding levels in natural seawater.

Many of the recommendations are my own opinions, and other aquarists may recommend slightly different levels.

To make clear the basis for each recommendation, a brief description of each particular parameter's importance follows the tables, along with links to other online articles that go into much greater depth on each subject (click on any blue text for the linked article).

Link: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

Albert

October 3, 2012

Toledo Zoo Aquarium's $25 million renovation - run by Jay Hemdal

It's exciting times for Toledo Zoo Aquarium and their curator Jay Hemdal. The Ohio aquarium is now undergoing a 3 year, $25 million makeover.

When completed, the aquarium will provide patrons a state-of-the-art interactive experience as well as more than triple their aquatic display volume from 46,000 gallons to 178,000 gallons!

Link: http://tinyurl.com/8cde3yz

Albert

October 3, 2012

Specific Gravity: Oh How Complicated!

This month, Randy explains and reviews specific gravity.

Link:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/chemistry

Albert

October 3, 2012

you tank is looking nice albert! everything look so healthy in there especially those giant Yumas.

What do you feed them to get them that size?

Mine have always look so small for a very long time. when i first got them they were big but now its shrink up. i have left them in the shade with very few lights to get feed on. i moved all around the tank to find a spot just right for them also.

I feed mysis, brine shrimp, and trace elements.. any ideas?

October 3, 2012

What are Natural Reef Salinities and Temperatures…Really… and Does It Matter?

Many mini-reef aquaria are set up and maintained within environments that continually put their organisms under some stress.

In general, these stresses are not enough to kill the animals outright, but often the environment is sufficiently unhealthy that the organisms are continually on the edge of disaster.

This may be the reason that many reef animals are considered to be delicate. Most reef organisms, if maintained with proper basic care and conditions, are very resilient and rather hard to kill.

This is particularly true of sponges, sea anemones, corals and most other invertebrates. Nonetheless, these groups have the unjustified reputation of being hard to keep.

Link: http://tinyurl.com/8p9dhm7

Albert

October 3, 2012

Are you still dosing with kalkwasser, Albert? What do your calcium and alkalinity readings look like now, versus before?

October 3, 2012

you tank is looking nice albert! everything look so healthy in there especially those giant Yumas.

What do you feed them to get them that size?

Mine have always look so small for a very long time. when i first got them they were big but now its shrink up. i have left them in the shade with very few lights to get feed on. i moved all around the tank to find a spot just right for them also.

I feed mysis, brine shrimp, and trace elements.. any ideas?

Thanks d'Espresso for the kind words about the tank and the Yumas. Currently they are about twice the size of when I got them, and one of them is throwing off "babies" but those do not seem to make it. I have seen my Lantern Basslet think it is food, take it in his mouth, and spit it back out, but in pieces, unfortunately.

Some though may have floated underneath LR right behind the Yumas and I am not sure that those will make it as I do not see them anymore.

One of them has split at the base and a new one may be growing (I posted pics of it yesterday).

So what are my tank conditions:

Ammonia and nitrite zero ppm, PO4 not detectable with a Salifert test kit, NO3 below 2 ppm, s.g. 1.025, Temperature a constant 78 F, Calcium varies from 460 to close to 500 ppm (I drip KW mixed with vinegar at the rate of about 1 drop every 15 or so seconds), Magnesium 1240 ppm, dKH 9 to sometimes 10, and I do a 15 to 20 % water change at least once a week.

I also blow off the rocks (and behind and underneath them) at least twice a week.

I run an HOB filter with GFO (just changed from Al. oxide) and GAC and a 3 inch wide piece of Poly-Filter, as well as a liberal amount of floss that I clean or replace every day.

Skimmer is a Red Sea Prism Pro, HOB, which does remove a good deal of skimmate but does need a fair amount of adjustment between morning, noon and evening ... probably due to whatever goes on in the water and what I add to the tank as food.

So what do I feed the Yumas?

- Mysis shrimp, but well filtered after thawed so I do not add phosphates and whatever else is in the water to the tank. I use PE Piscene. I do so when they are wide open and they will close up just about immediately and sort of turn into a ball like shape. Twice a week

- I add Cyclop-eeze to the tank, but also spot feed the Yumas with it, twice a week but on different days than the Mysis.

- Twice a week I spot feed them with Sera Marin Granules. Same reaction as with the Mysis. Again on different days. The fish like those too (except the Banggai Cardinal who seems to eat only Mysis and some Cyclop-eeze).

So they actually get food just about everyday, as when I do not spot feed them, they do pick up some of the Continuum Micro-Blast that I add to the tank as well when the lights are out, and I add that twice a week (5 ml).

Guess they do get a lot of food indeed, and maybe that is why they have grown so well. Both are on a piece of flat rock and on the substrate right next to each other.

Not sure whether I am overfeeding as the other corals get the same feeding treatment, but since my water quality parameters say in line, I guess that the system can cope with all the food that is not eaten, and the water changes and LR blasting to clean them, of course helps a great deal to keep detritus and other matter out of the tank.

If yours are not growing and not opening fully, I would feed them more often and see whether that helps. Note that when I spot feed they only really get very small amounts.

Oh, and lastly I do not use LED lighting, but 2 100 watt equivalent CFT's (CFL's) rated at 6500K.

Hope this helps but if you have more questions feel free to ask.

All other corals seem to be doing well too, as you may have seen from the pictures I posted.

Albert

October 3, 2012

Are you still dosing with kalkwasser, Albert? What do your calcium and alkalinity readings look like now, versus before?

Ben :

Calcium varies from 460 to close to 500 ppm, and yes I drip KW mixed with vinegar at the rate of about 1 drop every 15 or so seconds, dKH 9 to sometimes 10.

The fluctuations occur after I do water changes and I have been thinking of adjusting my prepared saltwater to match tank conditions but I just recently changed to Red Sea Pro salt and that seems to minimize the variations.

And on the KW ... 1 add 3 TBSP of hydroxide to the container I use, add 45 ml of Vinegar, and then top off to 1 gallon using RO/DI water.

That is what is dripped into the tank, by gravity, using a needle valve to adjust the drip rate, and that is a bit of a PITA as when a little powder enters the valve the drip rate will slow down, so I have to watch it and adjust it and clean the needle valve every couple of days ...

The drip runs 24 hours a day. My pH stays well around 8.1 to 8.2, with little swings between morning and evening.

So far so good as you may have seen from the pics I posted: all the corals seem to be doing fine, and of course coralline algae is growing, started a while back on the rocks and now I see some on the electrical cords, on the back glass, and two spots on the front glass (I am going to use my Magic Eraser sponge to get it off the front).

Lots of coralline growth on the electrical cord and on the body of the power head that is connected to it, but also a lot on the rocks and in pink, red, and a few spots of green but that seems to eventually turn to pink and then get darker.

Thanks for asking.

Albert

October 3, 2012

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters in great detail

© Randy Holmes- Farley

Albert

Thank you Albert! Slowly, but surely, water chemistry is making more sense to me. Mostly because of articles like these.

Specific Gravity: Oh How Complicated!
© By Randy Holmes-Farley, Ph.D. and reefkeeping.com

This month, Randy explains and reviews specific gravity.

Albert

Again TY

October 3, 2012

Thank you Albert! Slowly, but surely, water chemistry is making more sense to me. Mostly because of articles like these.
Again TY

eitallent :

Glad the articles are helping, and yes water chemistry IS indeed complicated or can be as so many components of it all have to be in "balance" so to speak for everything to be right and the way we want it to be for our tanks.

And, sometimes I feel that the more we know, the more we realize that there is even more to figure out :-) before we get it all right ....

Albert

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