albertthiel Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 (edited) Pictures of my Tank taken this Afternoon (II) More Pictures taken this afternoon Albert AND ............. More Pictures of my Tank taken this Afternoon (III) Albert Edited September 21, 2012 by albertthiel Quote Link to comment
gena Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Very nice, Albert!!! I love your citron goby!!! I had one a few years ago and he never did well for me. Just wasted away. What does yours eat? Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Very nice, Albert!!! I love your citron goby!!! I had one a few years ago and he never did well for me. Just wasted away. What does yours eat? Thanks Gena ... Yes that Citron Goby is a crazy little fish .. he will sit in a Yuma for a while and then go to my Candy Cane and rest on that one, and move to the Duncan, or maybe one of the Leather corals ... (where he seems to always go at night when the lights are out). When I got him I made sure he ate and had the store show me that he did. He eats just about anything: Sera Marin granules, Cobalt Spirulina flake, defrosted Mysis pieces, and when I feed the corals and use Cyclop-eeze he'll go for that too. He is real fun to watch for sure. Sorry yours did not make it ... Tank is doing fine but I did discover some Bubble (red) algae the other day and posted pics of them on this thread after I removed them and took a few pics of the Bubbles. Since then I have not seen any others. Several weeks ago I found a small sprig of Bryopsis and removed and posted pics of it too, and I kept it on the side of my desk. Believe it or not over a month later it is still green. I put it in some saltwater in a little test tube yesterday and put it in plain light to see what it will do .. so far it revived itself but not sure what it will do from here onwards. One thing I know, regardless of what it does it is NOT going back in the tank :-) Thanks for visiting and thanks for the kind words. Your tank looks nice as well from what I have seen on your thread ... I know that keeping reefs in good shape is a lot of work and is not cheap at all with all the compounds, food and whatever else we need but it's an expense we can't avoid I guess. Have a nice week-end and happy reef keeping Albert Quote Link to comment
gena Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 My LFS has citrons in right now. I was admiring them, but I'm a little gun shy with them after my past experience. I had no idea, at the time, that they could have eating issues. I would love to try one again, later down the road. Interesting little experiment you have going with the bryopsis. I guess we shouldn't be surprised to find out it is doing well after a month out of water You have a wonderful weekend as well. Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 All corals appear to be doing very well there Albert and growing well with nice colouration. Les. Pictures of my Tank taken this Afternoon (I) Tank is doing well and no issues with water chemistry or other parameters. Cleaned tank this morning and did a 15% water change and replaced all chemical compounds I use. Took Pictures this afternoon Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 My LFS has citrons in right now. I was admiring them, but I'm a little gun shy with them after my past experience. I had no idea, at the time, that they could have eating issues. I would love to try one again, later down the road. Interesting little experiment you have going with the bryopsis. I guess we shouldn't be surprised to find out it is doing well after a month out of water You have a wonderful weekend as well. Thanks Gena ... and you too ... And if you get a Citron make sure you see it eat and as usual find out what the store feeds them .. On the Bryopsis: I wouldn't be surprised at all that it will do well in that test tube ... tough stuff it is for sure. Go figure more than a month just lying there out of the water and then when put back in it seems to grow as when I put it in it would move around in that small test tube but now it seems like it expanded and is sort of stuck in the same place ... tough indeed ! No wonder we can have such problems with it in a tank, and need to use "extreme" measures to get rid of it (like spot H2O2 injection) Albert All corals appear to be doing very well there Albert and growing well with nice colouration. Les. Thanks Les, I appreciate it ... gee you are up late tonight !!! Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Thanks Les, I appreciate it ... gee you are up late tonight !!! Albert Harr you noticed Albert. Yes I go out just about every Friday evening with a friend of long standing for a few beers. it's 12.55am here and my bed is calling me so I bid you good night and good evening. Les. Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Harr you noticed Albert. Yes I go out just about every Friday evening with a friend of long standing for a few beers. it's 12.55am here and my bed is calling me so I bid you good night and good evening. Les. Hope you had a good time and not toooooo many beers ... Have a good one ... Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Tiny (and one not so tiny) Terrors of the Sea: Damsels of the Genus Dascyllus © Steven Pro and reefkeeping.com The so-called Humbug Damsels of the genus Dascyllus are perennial favorites of beginning marine aquarists, and for good reason. They are tough little characters, readily available, inexpensive, attractive and able to withstand the unforgiving period of time most beginners spend on the marine aquarium learning curve. Sounds like the perfect fish, doesn't it? I have not yet mentioned their temperament. They happen to be exceptionally territorial, highly aggressive and totally fearless. These attributes make more experienced hobbyists avoid them. Even so, three species in this genus regularly make the top ten list of most frequently imported marine fishes. Link: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-11/sp/index.php Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 (edited) Beautiful Ducklings that turn into Ugly Swans: Damsels of the Genus Neoglyphidodon © Steven Pro and wetwebmedia.com Most readers should be familiar with the story of the young ugly duckling that turned into a beautiful, fully-developed Swan. Well, the fish in this genus are the exact opposite. They are little, cute, and very attractive as juveniles, but become big, ugly bruisers as adults, making many of their keepers regret the decision to purchase them in the first place. Damsels, along with their relatives, the Clownfishes, make up the family Pomacentridae. This family consists of 28 genera and 321 species (Fenner, 2001). The genus Neoglyphidodon has eight species (Michael, 2001), but only three are commonly offered for sale with a fourth occasionally available. Pictorial article with details of every spp. of the Damsel genus Neoglyphidodon. 8 of them are discussed + a section with a lot of general comments and recommendations on these Fishes. Link: http://tinyurl.com/ccapcxu Read up on this genus so you do not make the mistake of buying one for your Reef, and know how to recognize them from the included Pictures. Albert Edited September 22, 2012 by albertthiel Quote Link to comment
dling Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Good morning Albert. Two things. First is in the last publication of the Aquarium Fish Mag.( out of business) they mentioned your name in an article about the many people and changes of the reef aquarium hobby over the years. The second thing is the cactus coral you got from me. I have watched mine grow very fast and it has now killed one of my other corals as it has come in contact with it.Just an FYI Have a great day. David Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 DIY Oxydator : Experiment in Constructing one and Conclusions About a week ago, after doing quite a bit of research on the Oxydaror, what it does and how it actually works, I decided to try and build a DIY one, using simple implements that I had already available. After having determined what metals (and other) compounds hydrogen peroxide reacts with, I decided on using "lead", not easy to find these days, but I did manage to get hold a some at an auto parts dealers. Brass works well too but lead works better from what I was able to determine. So what did I do: I took a small plastic bottle , drilled a whole in the lid, glued a piece of airline tubing in the lid, filled the container 3/4 full with H2O2 and added 2 pieces of lead (fairly large ones). As I watch what was going on inside, I could see that the H2O2 was indeed reacting with the lead pieces, and creating bubbles of oxygen. Pretty good reaction too, with really small bubbles forming and rising in the H2O2 that was in the container. I then closed the bottle tight, guided the airline tubing to my tank and waited till the internal pressure of the oxygen that was being produced, made its way through the airline tubing, which was submerged in the tank water about 4 inches. Eventually, after enough internal pressure had built up, the water in the airline tubing was displaced and bubbles started popping out of it and into the aquarium water, at a rate of one about every 3 to 4 seconds. The problem was that these bubbles were large and rose immediately to the top of the water and did more than likely not dissolve into the tank's water to any meaningful degree. So I figured that to disperse them and make the bubbles smaller I would attach an diffuser at the submerged end of the airline tubing. Good idea ... but it did not work ... The pressure that developed inside the bottle was not high enough to push the oxygen through the airstone rapidly, and so I saw a few bubbles come out of it about every 30 or so seconds, but again the bubbles were too large, and not the micro type ones that would dissolve in the water. The bubbles rose to the top and did not dissolve into the water. I played around with some changes ... more H2O2 and raise the airstone in the water to reduce the back pressure. The result of that was that bubbles came out of the airstone more rapidly but were also large and iMO of no use as they did not dissolve, and just rose to the top of the water an then burst. So after trying to tweak the DIY Oxydator some more, eventually decided that this was not doing to work. The alternative was to put the bottle with H2O2 (lid facing up) inside the tank and put the airstone right on top of the lid and try that. Same result, although now the bubbles took longer of course to rise to the top, but still they remained large and did not appear to dissolve either. Guess that either I missed something, or it may just be simpler to purchase an Oxydator rather than playing around with a DIY one that I could not get to work. Of course the real one is set up in an upside-down manner but I was not ready to try that for fear that lead compounds would leach in the aquarium. I guess, as a conclusion that I will be buying one ! But it was worth a try ... Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Good morning Albert. Two things. First is in the last publication of the Aquarium Fish Mag.( out of business) they mentioned your name in an article about the many people and changes of the reef aquarium hobby over the years. The second thing is the cactus coral you got from me. I have watched mine grow very fast and it has now killed one of my other corals as it has come in contact with it.Just an FYI Have a great day. David David: Thanks, I did not notice it (what article was it as i posted links to several in the last few days) but thanks for pointing it out. I appreciate it. It's always nice to read that some who write current or more current articles do remember some of the contributions I made to the hobby ... Pity indeed that so many of the Magazines, even online ones, have gone out of business and that fewer and fewer remain available to us (remember FAMA and Marine Fish Monthly?). Nowadays just about all we have is CORAL Magazine I guess, and some lesser known ones that I sometimes see at an LFS or in ads, but I wonder how long those will make it for. On your Pavona: mine just does not seem to grow, although conditions in the tank for it are right IMO, and although it extends its tentacles quite a bit for the most part of the day ... so not sure why it's not growing. I tried putting it in different spots in the tank but I do not see any growth all all. BTW the pic I posted yesterday was an enlarged one, and although it shows good tentacle extension, its size appears to be the same size as when I got it from you. Not sure what I need to do but I'll try putting it higher up and stronger lighting and see whether that helps. Can't post a picture of what it looks like this morning as the lights are not on yet. Sorry to read yours killed off another coral (which one if I may ask...). Thanks for your post, and if you do let me know which article you were referring to I'll go have another look and see what they have to say :-) Happy reef keeping and have a great week-end. Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Hi Albert, As you know I have been following your experiments in trying to create an Oxydator and feared that they way you were trying to make one would not work as well as the Oxydator does. The Oxydator as I think you know works in a slightly but important different way than the one you constructed. A diagram of how the Oxydator "D" which I have. My idea for a design which is more in-line with how the Oxydator works. There are two sizes of bubbles exiting the Oxydator that I can see, very small bubbles and extremely fine bubbles which are just noticeable with the naked eye. The very small ones slowly make their way to the surface of the aquarium in quite still water. The extremely fine bubbles exit the Oxydator horizontally and appear to dissolve into the surrounding aquarium water. What we need to achieve is more or less a replication of the size of the bubbles created by the Oxydator to maximize the solubility of the O2 exiting the Oxydator. IMO the easiest way to achieve this is to design your DIY Oxydator that works in the same way as the original. A friend of mine used a brass drawing pin can be used as the catalyst in his DIY Oxydator which worked well and would be safer to use in the aquarium than lead I believe. Hope you don't mind me posting the above Albert and hope it of some help. Les. Les. DIY Oxydator : Experiment in Constructing one and Conclusions About a week ago, after doing quite a bit of research on the Oxydaror, what it does and how it actually works, I decided to try and build a DIY one, using simple implements that I had already available. After having determined what metals (and other) compounds hydrogen peroxide reacts with, I decided on using "lead", not easy to find these days, but I did manage to get hold a some at an auto parts dealers. Brass works well too but lead works better from what I was able to determine. So what did I do: I took a small plastic bottle , drilled a whole in the lid, glued a piece of airline tubing in the lid, filled the container 3/4 full with H2O2 and added 2 pieces of lead (fairly large ones). As I watch what was going on inside, I could see that the H2O2 was indeed reacting with the lead pieces, and creating bubbles of oxygen. Pretty good reaction too, with really small bubbles forming and rising in the H2O2 that was in the container. I then closed the bottle tight, guided the airline tubing to my tank and waited till the internal pressure of the oxygen that was being produced, made its way through the airline tubing, which was submerged in the tank water about 4 inches. Eventually, after enough internal pressure had built up, the water in the airline tubing was displaced and bubbles started popping out of it and into the aquarium water, at a rate of one about every 3 to 4 seconds. The problem was that these bubbles were large and rose immediately to the top of the water and did more than likely not dissolve into the tank's water to any meaningful degree. So I figured that to disperse them and make the bubbles smaller I would attach an diffuser at the submerged end of the airline tubing. Good idea ... but it did not work ... The pressure that developed inside the bottle was not high enough to push the oxygen through the airstone rapidly, and so I saw a few bubbles come out of it about every 30 or so seconds, but again the bubbles were too large, and not the micro type ones that would dissolve in the water. The bubbles rose to the top and did not dissolve into the water. I played around with some changes ... more H2O2 and raise the airstone in the water to reduce the back pressure. The result of that was that bubbles came out of the airstone more rapidly but were also large and iMO of no use as they did not dissolve, and just rose to the top of the water an then burst. So after trying to tweak the DIY Oxydator some more, eventually decided that this was not doing to work. The alternative was to put the bottle with H2O2 (lid facing up) inside the tank and put the airstone right on top of the lid and try that. Same result, although now the bubbles took longer of course to rise to the top, but still they remained large and did not appear to dissolve either. Guess that either I missed something, or it may just be simpler to purchase an Oxydator rather than playing around with a DIY one that I could not get to work. Of course the real one is set up in an upside-down manner but I was not ready to try that for fear that lead compounds would leach in the aquarium. I guess, as a conclusion that I will be buying one ! But it was worth a try ... Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Hi Albert,As you know I have been following your experiments in trying to create an Oxydator and feared that they way you were trying to make one would not work as well as the Oxydator does. The Oxydator as I think you know works in a slightly but important different way than the one you constructed. There are two sizes of bubbles exiting the Oxydator that I can see, very small bubbles and extremely fine bubbles which are just noticeable with the naked eye. The very small ones slowly make their way to the surface of the aquarium in quite still water. The extremely fine bubbles exit the Oxydator horizontally and appear to dissolve into the surrounding aquarium water. What we need to achieve is more or less a replication of the size of the bubbles created by the Oxydator to maximize the solubility of the O2 exiting the Oxydator. IMO the easiest way to achieve this is to design your DIY Oxydator that works in the same way as the original. A friend of mine used a brass drawing pin can be used as the catalyst in his DIY Oxydator which worked well and would be safer to use in the aquarium than lead I believe. Hope you don't mind me posting the above Albert and hope it of some help. Les: I agree, the way I had it set up is upside down from what Sochting does, and that did not work as I explained in my message. My issue right now with their design is with how the bubbles get out of the device as if oxygen rises to the top then what gets pushed out of the device and how. Why do the bubbles get out at the bottom is all the oxygen that is produced sits at the top? Or are they relying on a small amount of peroxide getting into the Taucherglocke (diving bell) and reacting with the water from the tank that is in there, but if that is the case then why is the catalyst not there? I am missing something still ... And in your design, why does the oxygen get out through that pinhole? If the catalyst is higher up then the reaction would make the oxygen rise to the top and create pressure that would push some peroxide through the pinhole and into the tank's water, which I can achieve by just dripping peroxide directly into the water. What am I missing ... Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Corals from Aquaristic Aquarium © Aquaristic Aquarium and their owners I'll post some more as they have a huge selection, but here are a few: Link to their site : http://www.facebook.com/aquaristicaquarium Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Les: My issue right now with their design is with how the bubbles get out of the device as if oxygen rises to the top then what gets pushed out of the device and how. Why do the bubbles get out at the bottom is all the oxygen that is produced sits at the top? That is as they say the million $ question Albert. However what I think is happening is that when the H2O2 breaks down in the Oxydator pressure builds up in the top then gets to a pressure that forces the oxygen being created back down and out of the bottom. The oxygen wants to rise but due to the pressure build up at the top it is stopped from doing so and is forced downwards. at least I think that is what is going on. Or are they relying on a small amount of peroxide getting into the Taucherglocke (diving bell) and reacting with the water from the tank that is in there, but if that is the case then why is the catalyst not there? I doubt that is what is happening and think my stab at the explanation is more likely. And in your design, why does the oxygen get out through that pinhole? If the catalyst is higher up then the reaction would make the oxygen rise to the top and create pressure that would push some peroxide through the pinhole and into the tank's water, which I can achieve by just dripping peroxide directly into the water. Albert I have not built such an Oxydator but it is based on a design of a friend. The oxygen is forced out the pin hole due to the pressure build up within. H2O2 is thicker than oxygen so I ssume the oxygen is exiting ahead of any peroxide. However I think but am not sure that a bubble may indeed form under the pin hole but can't be certain as if I take my Oxydator out of my tank of course if there was such a bubble it would be lost. The makers say no peroxide enters the aquarium so I assume it is broken down to O2 and H2O before it exits the Oxydator. have you checked the Oxydator site which has lots of info on how the Oxydator works but not sure it goes into enough detail to answer your question? Of course they may not want to give too much info out to prevent people copying it....... As if anybody would do such a thing. I don't think I am explaining my theory on how this all works very well and yet it's a simple process it seems. BTW you can buy Oxydator catalysts as spares or to use in a DIY Oxydator. Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 That is as they say the million $ question Albert. However what I think is happening is that when the H2O2 breaks down in the Oxydator pressure builds up in the top then gets to a pressure that forces the oxygen being created back down and out of the bottom. The oxygen wants to rise but due to the pressure build up at the top it is stopped from doing so and is forced downwards. at least I think that is what is going on. I doubt that is what is happening and think my stab at the explanation is more likely. I have not built such an Oxydator but it is based on a design of a friend. The oxygen is forced out the pin hole due to the pressure build up within. H2O2 is thicker than oxygen so I ssume the oxygen is exiting ahead of any peroxide. However I think but am not sure that a bubble may indeed form under the pin hole but can't be certain as if I take my Oxydator out of my tank of course if there was such a bubble it would be lost. The makers say no peroxide enters the aquarium so I assume it is broken down to O2 and H2O before it exits the Oxydator. have you checked the Oxydator site which has lots of info on how the Oxydator works but not sure it goes into enough detail to answer your question? Of course they may not want to give too much info out to prevent people copying it....... As if anybody would do such a thing. I don't think I am explaining my theory on how this all works very well and yet it's a simple process it seems. BTW you can buy Oxydator catalysts as spares or to use in a DIY Oxydator. Les, thanks for your thoughts on the matter and I have to think about it some more, and I could try it out in a separate vessel, using the set up that you describe, and what you think happens, and see whether bubbles are coming out from the bottom, based on what you think happens. Doing it in that manner will prevent anything untoward from happening in the aquarium should peroxide start leaking out in too large a quantity (- that is if any actually does - which they say does not happen -). Thanks for the input, and I guess that will be the next thing to try, maybe not today, but soon enough ... I have been to their website several times and I agree that they do not give out a lot of info, and I am sure that the reason is the one you mentioned ... ... What ... you mean people copy things in this hobby :-) ? Just kidding as I guess that is what I am doing myself ... Thanks and I'll keep everyone updated. And yes I have brass as well so I can use that instead of the lead. Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 However I think but am not sure that a bubble may indeed form under the pin hole but can't be certain as if I take my Oxydator out of my tank of course if there was such a bubble it would be lost. The makers say no peroxide enters the aquarium so I assume it is broken down to O2 and H2O before it exits the Oxydator. Since we know that theirs work they obviously figured out how to make that happen, how is indeed the 64K question but I guess if I play around with it for long enough, I may be able to figure it out. I may try to put something together this week-end and see what happens. I have to take a good look at how theirs is put together and then try to find the parts and pieces I need. So, more later ... Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Les, thanks for your thoughts on the matter and I have to think about it some more, and I could try it out in a separate vessel, using the set up that you describe, and what you think happens, and see whether bubbles are coming out from the bottom, based on what you think happensDoing it in that manner will prevent anything untoward from happening in the aquarium should peroxide start leaking out in too large a quantity (- that is if any actually does - which they say does not happen -). Yes good idea and you don't have to try it out in saltwater either. I would try it in a glass vase so you can see how it reacts and how (if the bubbles) come out as I think it should do What ... you mean people copy things in this hobby :-) ? Just kidding as I guess that is what I am doing myself ... Albert Noooo neither of us would even contemplate such a thing ...God forbid. Les. Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 (edited) Yes good idea and you don't have to try it out in saltwater either. I would try it in a glass vase so you can see how it reacts and how (if the bubbles) come out as I think it should doNoooo neither of us would even contemplate such a thing ...God forbid. Les. I was thinking along the same lines as it should not make a difference since the reaction occurs inside the container anyway ... Maybe I'll use one of my wife's flower vases that is rectangular and that would work well for the test. Just need to figure out the bottom part to rest it on (the castellated part) but I guess I can get some small plastic lid and cut it out some, so I have the open notches I need. And on copying ... that is so pervasive in this hobby that it is not funny .. just look at all the products that claim to do the same thing as others and all use the same compounds (e.g. GFO of Al oxide etc... gee was that not called X-Silicate about 20 years + ago ) Albert Edited September 22, 2012 by albertthiel Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Uronema marinum Not a common marine fish disease, but it does happen and since it is not covered in most articles, below is some information on it: © Terry D. Bartelme in an article that deals with the more common marine diseases Uronema marinum is a free-living rather than obligate parasite as it feeds on live food, dead tissue and bacteria. However, this parasite is opportunistic and, it is often found on recently captured, transported, or otherwise weakened hosts. Poor conditions and stress are believed to be factors as they negatively impact the host’s immune system. Uronema marinum infects fish within a wide temperature and salinity range and invades the internal organs in advanced stages. Reproduction: Reproduction is by fission. Symptoms Early on, increased mucus production and hyperactivity may be seen as symptoms of Uronema marinum infection. Focal de-pigmentation, ulceration and pitting of the skin, respiratory distress, lethargy, flashing, clamped fins, erratic swimming, gasping at the surface or laying at the bottom of the aquarium are symptoms. Raised scales with bloody patches (hemorrhages) can also be exhibited. These lesions can be difficult to distinguish from those exhibited with vibrio bacterial infections. - Excess mucus production - Hyperactivity early in infection - Focal de-pigmentation - Ulceration and pitting of the skin - Respiratory distress - Lethargy - Clamped fins - Gasping at the surface or sitting on the bottom - Raised scales with bloody patches - Flashing - Erratic swimming Treatment It is crucial to begin treatment early before this parasite invades internal organs. Early stages of infection may be controlled with freshwater or formalin dips (Basiola and Gratzek,1992.). Some success has been reported with nitrofurazone and methylene blue (Chueng et al., 1980. Bassleer, 1983). Experimental treatments with anti-malaria drugs such as chloroquine and quinacrine hold some promise. Hydrogen peroxide can be effective against parasites on external surfaces, but it is not well tolerated by some fish. Systemic infections have a poor prognosis. Secondary bacterial infection is common. It may be wise to follow formalin or freshwater dips with a course of nitrofurazone treatment. If not treated the infected fish will eventually die. Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 (edited) New Zoa's Found while cleaning behind Live Rock It is amazing what we sometimes come across when we clean our tanks, especially those areas that are not "visible". I did so yesterday, behind the LR that is in the back of the tank, and as I was looking a little closer, I saw some polyps that seemed to be wedged in the branches of the Totoka rock that is in my tank. I managed to get them out of the crevice they were in and glued them to a piece of rock and when the patch opened up this morning I was pleased to see that there are in fact a few babies that are part of the cluster and that are now open also. May not be easy to see in the picture but they are there! Odd as the ones that are in the open and get plenty of light do not seem to be spreading for some reason yet these that were in very low light (reflection off the back glass) did apparently grew a few new ones: They are on the bottom right, and I can even see a small one that must have been on the piece of rock i used already. Don't ask me where those came from but they may have floated through the tank and settled on that small rock that has been in the tank for weeks and weeks. Albert Edited September 22, 2012 by albertthiel Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 (edited) IJust need to figure out the bottom part to rest it on (the castellated part) but I guess I can get some small plastic lid and cut it out some, so I have the open notches I need. Albert Hi Albert, I would suggest the area/ distance from the bottle cap to the top of the castellated part needs to be around 4 to 6mm. My drawing is a little crude and I would suggest using something of a larger diameter for the castellated part to aid stability when placed in the aquarium. My Oxydator "D" top that also forms the area the oxygen escapes out is 2" in diameter. Here are a few pic's of the top and the catalyst which is approximately 10mm long x 3mm dia. and the catalyst. Edited September 22, 2012 by atoll Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Hi Albert,I would suggest the area/ distance from the bottle cap to the top of the castellated part needs to be around 4 to 6mm. My drawing is a little crude and I would suggest using something of a larger diameter for the castellated part to aid stability when placed in the aquarium. My Oxydator "D" top that also forms the area the oxygen escapes out is 2" in diameter. Great of you to post those so I get a better idea of how the Oxydator works to release the bubbles. As I was thinking about it it occured to me that if the oxygen goes into the lid with the castellated slits, that that area would have to fill with oxygen first before it was being able to escape from the cap on which the bottle with the brass sits. Leaving a space between the cap with the pinhole and the bottom piece on which it rests is indeed a very good suggestion. Thanks Les. Albert Quote Link to comment
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