THE OFFICIAL ASK ALBERT THIEL THREAD

September 20, 2012

Upside Down Corals and More - II

Dr. Joshi's FB page is at: http://www.facebook.com/sanjay.joshi.792

Albert

September 20, 2012

Marine Ich/Ick - Crytocaryon irritans: A Discussion and Possible Treatments

This is a two part article by Steven Pro, and the links to both articles are listed below:

Part 1 : http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php

Part 2 : http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-10/sp/feature/index.php

Marine Ich, an infestation of Cryptocaryon irritans, is one of the two most common afflictions of saltwater fish; the other being Marine Velvet caused by Amyloodinium sp. (Michael, 2002 and Joshi, 2003).

In this two-part series, I will explain some of the biology of this ciliated parasite and discuss the multitude of treatments, remedies, cures, and elixirs that have been put forth to save your fish and sometimes empty your wallet.

My hope is to help you wade through the copious and often erroneous anecdote to find an effective treatment that best suits your particular needs and that of your fishes.

Albert

September 20, 2012

OAN ... is all going well with the tank (oan = on another note)

Albert

Thank you, Albert, for asking about my Atlantis. I have managed to understand a little more regarding water chemistry so I have been able to keep constant good water parameters with out dosing. So here is the tank update:

I tested water again today and all is well. Do you agree?

Temp 78.3 F :: pH 8.0 :: Ca 440ppm :: Alk. 8.5 dKH :: NO₃ 0

Last week I installed a Hydor Koralia Nano 240 circulation pump to improve water flow. There are still a few dead spots where stuff can collect but I shoot it with a turkey baster.

Also I attached two small colonies of Zoas to the LR with Aquastick putty. It was not very sticky and I was afraid of pressing too hard. Hopefully they will stay up as the putty cures. See pics below.

The CUC has eaten every last bit of visible algae/diatoms and detritus. I have some Hikari sinking wafers that I break into quarters which the Pep. shrimp eats and the Nassarius snails swarm over. I also got some brown marine algae (like dried seaweed) by Ocean Nutrition that I put in yesterday for the algae eating snails. It was unsuccessful as I saw only two dwarf Ceriths (out of about 20 algae consuming snails) on the strip I attached with a clip next to the sand bed. The strip of seaweed was flipping around in the current so not many could probably get to it. What and HOW do you or other members reading this feed your assorted snails so that there is not a massive die off due to starvation?

Collonista snail? This snail is a volunteer.

lovely algae colors on this Astrea's shell

My first attempt at using Aquastick putty to glue down Zoa frags

Kenya tree an Xenia are lovely as thier arms dance with the currents

September 20, 2012

Oh, I also wanted to share this update with you. Because my three mushroom corals had been looking very pitiful on the treacherous sand bed I set up a mushroom nursery in a new disposable plastic container. Using a handy knife I cut out thin slits in the sides of the container for water flow. The curled top where the lid snaps on was in the way so I cut it away too.

I wrapped some LR in an old clean towel, grabbed my trusty hammer and uttered "Hulk smash!" Having created nice sized rubble {and feeling better } I filled the bottom of the container with a single layer of LR.

With a bag clip I attached it to the back wall of my 12 G Nano-Cube, filled it with tank's SW and added the forlorn mushies.

Mushies this morning already relaxing: they look even more stretched and plump now.

Today they look fat and spread out to 3 times their previous size.

September 20, 2012

Looks like maybe another type of Probiotics offshoot application Les, but it is difficult to really get an idea of what this system methodology does based on the information that is on their website, with just a short description that is IMO not all that clear about what it does, and no links to further info.

If you can find anything else on this Dutch (apparently) system and company, do post it here please.

I'll look for some info myself later today probably and maybe I can find some more details as well.

Wonder how long that has been around too and whether there have been any reviews of the ecodeco/DYMICO system.

It's IMO a bit odd too that they give so little information.

Albert

It makes sense to me. The principles combine several things we already do.

We use a sand bed to encourage anaerobic dentirtifying bacteria to reduce nitrates.

We carbon dose to encourage bacteria growth and uptake of P and N

And we lower the pH in a clacareous media to release cal and alk.

This system pumps water and CO2 through a sand bed but controls the flow of it based on the pH and Rodox value within the sand bed. By controlling the flow of water it maintians the correct redox for denitrification. By controlling CO2 addition is maintains the correct pH for the media to dissolve and by using CO2 it is adding a carbon source for bacterial growth.

The other thing they do is use plantkon pumps to maintain the planktonic life that is otherwise destroyed by regular impellor pumps.

The principle make sense. Rotterdam and Antwerp zoo are using it. (rotterdam is a leading European institute when it comes to corals)

There is a AA write up here. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/aafeature The diagram explains it well

My guess is they dont want to give too much away as it is actually nothing revolutionary, just a new way of combining old technology and it would be easy enough for someone else to come in and replicate it, in short, they want to make money!!

September 20, 2012

Thank you, Albert, for asking about my Atlantis. I have managed to understand a little more regarding water chemistry so I have been able to keep constant good water parameters with out dosing. So here is the tank update:

I tested water again today and all is well. Do you agree?

Temp 78.3 F :: pH 8.0 :: Ca 440ppm :: Alk. 8.5 dKH :: NO₃ 0

Last week I installed a Hydor Koralia Nano 240 circulation pump to improve water flow. There are still a few dead spots where stuff can collect but I shoot it with a turkey baster.

Also I attached two small colonies of Zoas to the LR with Aquastick putty. It was not very sticky and I was afraid of pressing too hard. Hopefully they will stay up as the putty cures. See pics below.

The CUC has eaten every last bit of visible algae/diatoms and detritus. I have some Hikari sinking wafers that I break into quarters which the Pep. shrimp eats and the Nassarius snails swarm over. I also got some brown marine algae (like dried seaweed) by Ocean Nutrition that I put in yesterday for the algae eating snails. It was unsuccessful as I saw only two dwarf Ceriths (out of about 20 algae consuming snails) on the strip I attached with a clip next to the sand bed. The strip of seaweed was flipping around in the current so not many could probably get to it. What and HOW do you or other members reading this feed your assorted snails so that there is not a massive die off due to starvation?

Collonista snail? This snail is a volunteer.

lovely algae colors on this Astrea's shell

My first attempt at using Aquastick putty to glue down Zoa frags

Kenya tree an Xenia are lovely as thier arms dance with the currents

eitallent:

Thanks for the update on your tank. Based on what I read your water quality parameters appear to be fine. Calcium could be a little higher but if you do not have a lot of SPS corals 440 ppm is fine (you could raise it a little but do keep an eye on its level as uptake of calcium will occur and will lower its levels as time goes by)

You could use Kalkwasser to top off for evaporation, or use one of the many 2 part Supplements that are available in the hobby.

Personally I drip KW to maintain Calcium and alkalinity and that keeps my levels around 480 ppm for Calcium and a dKH of 9 to 10. I have little evaporation so based on my testing, if the calcium level gets too low, I add a few cc's of Calcium booster (Instant Ocean) and find that because it is highly concentrated I only need to add very little when I do add it.

I did not see a level for Phosphates, but since you do not report any issues with algae growth or other undesirable growths I guess it must be low ... if you do not have a test for it I would suggest you do get one. Personally I use the Salifert one which is good and easy to use. I don't see any in the pictures you posted except for coralline algae growth, even a little on the Astrea.

Good of you to add that Koralia 240 as it is indeed important to have good circulation and eliminate dead spots. Just for your info and what you may already know, red slime loves dead spots as oxygen is low there and if there are nutrients in the water (and there always are) it will grow in those areas.

You can play around so-to-speak with the direction of the flow so you have good circulation everywhere. If you find you still have dead spots you may wish to get a second one and set it up on the opposite side to eliminate any possible dead spots.

Colonista Snails are very small, and remain small, and are distinguished by their minute size and

by the small pit in the center of their operculum (of course to see that you would have to take it out of the water and turn it upside down and wait for it to close its operculum so you can see the pit). They are herbivores and will graze on algae. They also often reproduce well in aquariums so you may have more than you think (look at night and you may see more). They are considered reef safe.

The pictures that show how you attached the Zoas look fine and should hold them in place, and the epoxy eventually gets covered with coralline algae ... may take a while but it happens eventually.

Based on what you write you obviously have a very industrious cleaning crew, as if they have eaten every bit of algae they did and are doing a great job.

And yes that brings up the issue of what to feed them ... you can get seaweed and wrap it around a rock so it stays in place, but note that most of them will consume uneaten fish food and some detritus so supplemental feeding may not be needed. The seaweed is best fed at night as they are more active then.

Usually CUC's find food though but if your aquarium is really free and clean of algae then adding some seaweed may be a good idea.

Kenya Tree and Xenia look good (remember that they can multiply quickly) ... what do you feed the Kenya Tree?

So things look good indeed for you ...

Thanks for the pics and the update.

Albert

September 20, 2012

Oh, I also wanted to share this update with you.

Because my three mushroom corals had been looking very pitiful on the treacherous sand bed I set up a mushroom nursery in a new disposable plastic container. Using a handy knife I cut out thin slits in the sides of the container for water flow. The curled top where the lid snaps on was in the way so I cut it away too.

I wrapped some LR in an old clean towel, grabbed my trusty hammer and uttered "Hulk smash!" Having created nice sized rubble {and feeling better } I filled the bottom of the container with a single layer of LR.

With a bag clip I attached it to the back wall of my 12 G Nano-Cube, filled it with tank's SW and added the forlorn mushies.

Mushies this morning already relaxing: they look even more stretched and plump now.

Today they look fat and spread out to 3 times their previous size.

Yes that is the best way to do it, and they will attach to the rubble in a few days (it can take a week or a little longer) and once that has happened you can epoxy or glue them down on your live rock where you want them.

Do not use glue on the mushrooms directly though, only on the rubble that they attached themselves to.

Also make sure that there is some flow through the tray you put them in or pour some tank water in it a couple of times a day to replace the water that is in that tray. The alternative is to drill holes in it but that may not be needed as long as you replace the water in the container or if water flows in and out of it thanks to the water movement in the tank, which based on what you write it does thanks to the slits you made.

Good to read that they are fat and happy. Nice job!

Albert

September 20, 2012

eitallent:

Kenya Tree and Xenia look good (remember that they can multiply quickly) ... what do you feed the Kenya Tree?

Albert

I feed the Kenya tree finely crushed Hikari sinking wafers (silkworm, shrimp, etc) in aquarium water with a micro pipette. I break the little wafers into quarters (tiny). One quarter is placed by the "guard shack" (cave) for my one remaining Peppermint shrimp and another quarter goes to the Kenya tree.

kenya tree 3 wks ago:

Kenya tree today:

September 20, 2012

Yes you are right, the number of acronyms one comes across can be daunting to understand sometimes, but worse than in the Army ... ?

I thought that the Military had a special "carnet" where all of them are listed as there are hundreds and hundreds if not thousands .. Just read a W.E.B. Griffin book and there are tons of them ...

But you are right and some that we come across AFAIK come from the texting world. And then there are the real odd ones like:

ABCD is a good one .....

(any bozo can do + whatever they are supposed to be able to do :-)

Thanks for the link ... I enjoyed reading those ...

AFAIAC there is really no end to them (as far as I am concerned) :-)

Here is a link to Internet ones : http://www.gaarde.org/acronyms/

Thanks eitallent ...

OAN ... is all going well with the tank (oan = on another note)

Albert

Speaking of acronyms, did you know that reefkeeping magazine has a list of "Top 10 reef acronyms that don't exist but should"?

On of them is LFSBS. Self-explanatory.

September 20, 2012

It makes sense to me. The principles combine several things we already do.

We use a sand bed to encourage anaerobic dentirtifying bacteria to reduce nitrates.

We carbon dose to encourage bacteria growth and uptake of P and N

And we lower the pH in a clacareous media to release cal and alk.

This system pumps water and CO2 through a sand bed but controls the flow of it based on the pH and Rodox value within the sand bed. By controlling the flow of water it maintians the correct redox for denitrification. By controlling CO2 addition is maintains the correct pH for the media to dissolve and by using CO2 it is adding a carbon source for bacterial growth.

The other thing they do is use plantkon pumps to maintain the planktonic life that is otherwise destroyed by regular impellor pumps.

The principle make sense. Rotterdam and Antwerp zoo are using it. (rotterdam is a leading European institute when it comes to corals)

There is a AA write up here. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/aafeature The diagram explains it well

My guess is they dont want to give too much away as it is actually nothing revolutionary, just a new way of combining old technology and it would be easy enough for someone else to come in and replicate it, in short, they want to make money!!

paultys:

Indeed it does. I took another look at their website during the day, and looked at some of the links they have which I missed this morning for some reason (went too fast I guess) and I agree with you that they have combined a number of techniques that many already use, and have designed their all "system" around controller that regulate all of the actions that have to take place.

In fact the link you added gives a very detailed explanation of the entire methodology, and I thank you for adding that link as the article really describe the whole system and the principles in great detail.

Of course one factor that needs to be kept in mind is that one part of the system requires a deep sand bed (DSB) and I am not sure how practical that is for a Nano reef, but for larger tanks that should be easy to achieve. In Nano's one may have to do so in a rather sizable sump so it is do-able.

I posted articles on similar systems on the thread here a day or two ago.

It is interesting that the Amsterdam and Antwerp Zoo Aquariums are the ones that are used as examples, as historically more advanced approaches have usually come from Germany (and of course the Zeovit and Ultralith are examples of that), but this one is as far as I can determine a lot more intricate and because of the automation does not require as much maintenance (such as shaking reactors filled with Zeolites used in other ones to loosen the film that needs to get into the aquarium).

And the use of those special impeller pumps shown in the linked article does indeed reduce damage to delicate organisms and plankton ...

Great system but with all the instrumentation and controllers needed this may be quite a bit over and above what your average hobbyist may be willing to spend.

But then the article you gave indicates that they are working on downsizing the system for use with home aquaria. It will be interesting to see and find out how downscaled it will be and whether that hobbyist system will be able to be used on Nano Reefs (hopefully so).

Thanks for the excellent summary of the processes you posted in your message ... !

I want it ! Just kidding ... on a 20 gallon tank it would be overdoing things a little.

Great post paultys. And thanks Les for the original post about it (Dynamic Mineral Control)

Anyone reading your post and this one should definitely read the article you linked.

Thanks

Albert

EDIT: BTW I am originally from Antwerp and know that aquarium from many many years ago and I am impressed with what they have done ... The one I remember had practically no sophisticated systems at all, so this is a huge improvement.

Edited September 20, 2012 by albertthiel

September 20, 2012

Speaking of acronyms, did you know that reefkeeping magazine has a list of "Top 10 reef acronyms that don't exist but should"?
On of them is LFSBS. Self-explanatory.

That Link was actually posted earlier today by eitallent .... but it is now on the previous page ...

But thanks asid61 ... and I posted one with all the internet ones too ... but repetition does not hurt ... as some may not have seen the original one.

Thanks

Albert

Edited September 20, 2012 by albertthiel

September 21, 2012

I feed the Kenya tree finely crushed Hikari sinking wafers (silkworm, shrimp, etc) in aquarium water with a micro pipette. I break the little wafers into quarters (tiny). One quarter is placed by the "guard shack" (cave) for my one remaining Peppermint shrimp and another quarter goes to the Kenya tree.
kenya tree 3 wks ago:

Kenya tree today:

Looking good indeed. Feeding phytoplankton is also recommended. Nice difference between when you got it and now.

Here is link to video that shows one being fed eitallent

And from what I can see you have a VERY clean looking tank indeed ! Great work! I like it.

Albert

September 21, 2012

Do-it-Yourself Frozen Food for your Tank

The marine aquarium hobby is an expensive one, and fellow hobbyists are always looking for ways to save money.

Well, this month I can provide readers with a simple way to save a few bucks while providing an excellent food product alternative for their aquarium.

Link:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/diy/index.php

Albert

September 21, 2012

Duncan Growing 2 New Heads - Update

I posted an earlier picture showing my Duncan growing 2 new Heads but the heads were not very visible because of how the Duncan was positioned in the tank.

I turned the piece of LR on which it is glued around so the new Heads are facing towards the front, and here is what they look like:

Nice, I like it !

Albert

September 21, 2012

Something old, something new: Evolution within the Hobby

One of the coolest things about our hobby is the amazing progression over the years in both the state of the art and the technology that we embrace.

Improvements that have enabled us to do things previously thought incredibly difficult or even, impossible, unfold daily here on Reef Builders and elsewhere.

And the progression seems to be accelerating constantly. What an amazing time to be a hobbyist!

Read more: http://reefbuilders.com/2010/07/03/evoluti.../#ixzz275hiLSf7

Read more: http://reefbuilders.com/2010/07/03/evoluti.../#ixzz275hHndH5

or

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/07/03/evoluti...bby/#more-20826

Albert

September 21, 2012

Vintage Aquarium products from All Oddball Aquatics

Offer Nostalgic Thoughts of how far we’ve Come

At Reef Builders we obsessively cover every aspect of the marine aquarium world; the fish, the corals, the great displays, and especially the new products. Since we spend so much time thinking about new products, sometimes its nice to see what aquarium hobbyists of old used to keep their tanks in good shape, and the weird marketing that manufacturers used to hawk their wares.

Read more: http://reefbuilders.com/2012/04/11/vintage.../#ixzz275n5qRtg

Albert

September 21, 2012

Drs. Mark Erdmann and Gerry Allen Coauthor Most Definite Species

Reference of The East Indies To Date

Read more at : http://tinyurl.com/clmvhm8

Conservation International yesterday released what is currently the most comprehensive and definite species reference of the "Coral Triangle" to date.

Reef Fishes of the East Indies is a three volume work coauthored by Drs. Mark Erdmann and Gerry Allen that covers the Coral Triangle (including Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia, Timor Leste, Papua New Guinea, and the Solomon Islands) as well as the South China Sea (including Brunei Darussalam to Vietnam and Singapore), the Andaman Sea (including Thailand, Myanmar, and the Andaman Islands of India) and Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean.

Reef Fishes of the East Indies contains descriptions of all 2,631 species (25 of which are new ones) in the area and includes over 3,600 photographs- approximately 40% of which have never been photographed.

Furthermore great care was taken to photograph the different color morphs of each species.

Yet a new addition to the ever growing amount of Literature that identifies and describes fishes that we may or many not be familiar with, including as stated above 25 new species !

The Coral Triangle:

The Coral Triangle, an area off the coasts of Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, Malaysia, the Solomon Islands, the Philippines, and Timor-Leste, is a 1.6 billion acre marine population in dire need of human protection.

According to The Nature Conservancy, “The Coral Triangle contains 75 percent of all known coral species, shelters 40 percent of the world’s reef fish species and provides for millions of people.”

But the area is at risk due to pollution, badly planned development and poor fishing practices, says the World Wildlife Fund.

Link to the Huffington Post article: http://tinyurl.com/7fsylbb

With a related article:

AND:

Which can be found at - - http://tinyurl.com/bo8xnnc and includes text and a video and information about the area, its people and their livelihood !

All these articles make for very interesting reading for those who want to learn more about where many if not most of our corals and fishes originate from, and what the conditions in that Triangle are, and what concerns exist with regard to the overall situation in the Coral Triangle.

Albert

Edited September 21, 2012 by albertthiel

September 21, 2012

Cirrhilabrus squirei: A new Fairy Wrasse:

First specimen caught and shipped to BlueHarbor

Read more at: http://reefbuilders.com/2012/06/18/cirrhil.../#ixzz275yBMYwx

“Cirrhilabrus squirei” is a spanking new labrid to be added to the growing list of fairy wrasses species.

Collected in the Coral Sea, this ultra gorgeous species pays homage to Cirrhilabrus johnsoni, as well as Cirrhilabrus cf. lanceolatus (The Pintail Fairy Wrasse).

”Cirrhilabrus squirei” has not been officially described but the scientific name has been more or less agreed on, and was named in honor of Lyle Squire of Cairns Marine.

Albert

Edited September 21, 2012 by albertthiel

September 21, 2012

Albert,

I have been making my own fish/coral foods for years using uncooked frozen or fresh ingredients. Despite the warnings I could introduce some form of disease into my tank. IME and IMO the possibility of introducing disease are very very small indeed esp the way I process my foods.

Unlike the author I don't like to make a cocktail of the various foods but prefer to make each using the one ingredient separately. I have used cockle, mussel, scallops, mackerel, squid, various shrimp and white bait successfully. I bought a small cheap blender (£9 about $12 I think) from a local supper store near me to process the foods.

My methods are quite simple really and apart from the blender little else is required. maybe I will go into a little more detail of how I go about making my foods another time if people are interested.

Les.

Do-it-Yourself Frozen Food for your Tank

© Steven Pro and reefkeeping.com

Link:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/diy/index.php

Albert

Edited September 21, 2012 by atoll

September 21, 2012

Amblyeleotris randalli - Randall's Shrimp Goby

If you want to keep a Randall's shrimp goby alone in an aquarium a 10 gallon / 40 L aquarium is enough, but if you want to keep other fish as well or several Randall's shrimp goby I recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallon / 120 L.

The aquarium should be decorated with a lot of hiding places and plenty of free area to swim in. The fish gets very stressed if it isn't provided with enough hiding places. It prefers a deep bed of sand and gravel.(If you keep Alpheus shrimps in the tank they will build a burrow for themselves and the goby in the sand bed.

Randall's shrimp gobies can however be kept without a deep bed or any bottom substrate at all for that matter.

They are good jumpers and it is important to keep the tank well covered.

They can be kept and does well in reef aquariums but are not 100% reef safe as they might eat small ornamental shrimps and other small invertebrates.

Video:

Albert

September 21, 2012

Albert,
I have been making my own fish/coral foods for years using uncooked frozen or fresh ingredients. Despite the warnings I could introduce some form of disease into my tank. IME and IMO the possibility of introducing disease are very very small indeed esp the way I process my foods.

Unlike the author I don't like to make a cocktail of the various foods but prefer to make each using the one ingredient separately. I have used cockle, mussel, scallops, mackerel, squid, various shrimp and white bait successfully. I bought a small cheap blender (£9 about $12 I think) from a local supper store near me to process the foods.

My methods are quite simple really and apart from the blender little else is required. maybe I will go into a little more detail of how I go about making my foods another time if people are interested.

Les.

Thanks Les and I am sure that is a good cost saving ... more money for goodies and corals :-) and a larger Oxydator maybe :-)

Yes, more detail would be appreciated by the readers I am sure.

Details like how fine depending on what it is fed to, quantity made each time, how fine, what do you use to feed it with if it is real fine grind, etc.

All of it would be interesting ... and may a some free samples for those who want to try it (just kidding).

OAN: .. BTW did you get my messages on TheSaltyBox ?

Albert

September 21, 2012

The Effects of Various Reef Safe Treatments on Xenia spp.in a controlled Setting

Part I

While I and many others try to hammer the need to quarantine, there are always those who don't hear or don't heed that advice.

Just take a look at the Fish Disease Forum of www.ReefCentral.com on any given day and you will see it filled with questions from individuals who incorrectly assumed that their new fish would do better in their display than in a proper quarantine tank.

Once the inevitable disease outbreak occurs, they are left with the decision to tear apart their entire tank to remove all the fish to a quarantine tank for treatment, or to try one of the alleged "reef-safe" treatments available and hope for the best.

The problem with these "reef-safe" treatments is two-fold.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-12/sp/index.php

Albert

September 21, 2012

I will do a write up later then Albert and yes got your PMs on Salty Box and replied.

Les.

Thanks Les and I am sure that is a good cost saving ... more money for goodies and corals :-) and a larger Oxydator maybe :-)

Yes, more detail would be appreciated by the readers I am sure.

Details like how fine depending on what it is fed to, quantity made each time, how fine, what do you use to feed it with if it is real fine grind, etc.

All of it would be interesting ... and may a some free samples for those who want to try it (just kidding).

OAN: .. BTW did you get my messages on TheSaltyBox ?

Albert

September 21, 2012

I will do a write up later then Albert and yes got your PMs on Salty Box and replied.
Les.

Thanks Les. Anytime .. no rush... whenever you have some free time ...

Glad you got the message. Guess someone fixed it somehow as I can now also post etc.

Albert

September 21, 2012

The Effects of Various Reef-Safe Treatments on Xenia spp. in a Controlled Setting

Part II

Due to the less than stellar performance of a few of the alleged "reef-safe" treatments in my previous experimental trials, I thought it would be worthwhile to continue my trials and delve into the performance of some other claimed "reef-safe" treatments.

For this next set of experiments, I chose Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' MelaFix and PimaFix, as well as No Sick Fish's Ich Treatment.

All of these medications claim to be reef-safe and yet, to the best of my knowledge, none has been proven either safe or effective.

It is a shame that manufacturers don't routinely release to the public the details of their own in-house experiments. If they did, I am sure they would gain greater acceptance and foster far less skepticism and cynicism among advanced aquarists.

This is Part II of Steven Pro's experiment on Xenia.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/sp/feature/index.php

Albert

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