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NanoTopia's ZEOvit 80L [ ]


NanoTopia

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I wonder if my mp40 is doing my tank justice, i need to look into these tunze pump.

 

I cant wait for a new FTS!!!

One of the things I like about the tunze pumps are their ability to direct flow in almost any direction. I think they could be added to the vortech for supplement flow.

 

What's next? :D So much inspiration in your projects!

Appreciated, not sure what is next, I want to visit Coburg Germany some time soon, haven't been anywhere in years :D

 

This is worth al least a few points for Canada. We seem to be doing quite well in the reef world these days...

The reefing community has no boarders, and I have never felt it was a competition, we are artists that work with living things from the ocean to create "live-art". Points should only be awarded for those who help make this hobby more sustainable, and those who do the scientific research to help us all be more successful at what we do.

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I see some stones in your sump, do you keep the old stones?

I keep some live rock and a bag of Seachem Matrix in the sump. This is because I have little live rock in the display, it helps with the stability of the system overall.

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I was thinking of trying either some ceramic media or dry rock. I dont want to deal with the inherent cycle, have you seen any negatives of this media? I keep seeing people refer to it as a nitrate factory, but I dont think it is accurate.

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I was thinking of trying either some ceramic media or dry rock. I dont want to deal with the inherent cycle, have you seen any negatives of this media? I keep seeing people refer to it as a nitrate factory, but I dont think it is accurate.

You should not see a cycle from adding some dry rock to the sump. I use Seachem Matrix because of it's porosity, it simply facilitates bacteria much like dry rock only better because there is much more surface area/volume. The issue of it being a nitrate factory is avoided if you keep it contained in a mesh bag and give it a shake twice a week. I would soak the Matrix in RO water for a week before adding it to the system, this will leach out any organics that may be bound in it although I have not experienced any notable spike in nutrients by just adding it to the sump without soaking. Keep it in a low flow area of the sump. Again, this isn't a magical solution to high nutrients only a means to keep a tank with minimal dry/live rock more stable.

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Christine question for you:

 

Do you dose: Iron Concentrate, B Balance and K Balance?

 

I am running out of Brightwell Strontion and Potassion and will be needing to get something else to dose potassium and strontium. I assume B Balance is mostly Strontium?

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Christine question for you:

 

Do you dose: Iron Concentrate, B Balance and K Balance?

 

I am running out of Brightwell Strontion and Potassion and will be needing to get something else to dose potassium and strontium. I assume B Balance is mostly Strontium?

Hi Aj,

 

I am not dosing Iron. I dose B-Balance which does contain Sr, and K-Balance. The concentration of K-Balance is not high at all but there are other elements in KB as well. If you are dosing quite a bit of the Brightwell's K then I suggest getting K-Balance Strong. KBS has a high concentration of K and small amount of other elements. Keep in mind KBS is almost 4 times the price of Brightwell's K per mL.

 

Stand looks awesome, what an improvement!

Thanks Brad :)

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NO MORE REFRACTOMETER

 

 

After educating myself on salinity measurement and talking to some very successful reefers around the world I have decided never to trust a refractometer (digital or not) ever again. Initially, I doubted the reading I was getting from my new conductivity probe, it was just that far out from my traditional digital refractometer results ( 31.5ppt - much lower), I found it hard to believe. So, I consulted some experts and treaded with caution, increased salinity slowly to 33.7ppt (according to the conductivity probe). This gave me a ~36ppt (or 1.027) when using the digital refract. Nervously, I watched the corals and all aspects of the tank for any slight sign of negative response. For a week I watched, nothing bad happened, only good. Stubbern corals that would'nt reach the colours I expected suddenly (within 2 days) began to show changes, yes hints of colour on tips I had not seen. Coralline changed colour and began to pop up everywhere (unusual for my tank). PE increased on corals that previously had little in the day time. All this (and more) in such a short time? Can't be... right?

 

Well it is. Call it anecdotal, call it what you want, I am calling it nothing short of a revelation.

 

Seems I was keeping corals at the very lowest range acceptable to sustain them (~32ppt) based on my fancy Milwaukee digital refractometer, not the optimum (34-35ppt) or 53,000 mS/cm. The increase in salinity to what I now believe is a TRUE ~34ppt has made a unmistakable improvement with all aspects of the tank in a week. I can't imagine what's to come.

 

If you still believe your refractometer because everyone else does or told you to, do yourself a favour, have a sample of your water tested for conductivity at a reputable lab. Feel free to post your results here :)

 

 

Happy reefing everyone !

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jedimasterben

Is this legit?

Legit what? lol

 

They're more accurate than refractometers and need no calibration, just gotta be sure the temperature is close to what they are calibrated to.

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SouthFlorida_Tron

Legit what? lol

 

They're more accurate than refractometers and need no calibration, just gotta be sure the temperature is close to what they are calibrated to.

So it doesn't need calibration... only except for one thing, temperature??? lmao, how am i supposed to do that!?

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So it doesn't need calibration... only except for one thing, temperature??? lmao, how am i supposed to do that!?

Ben, he's all yours LOL

 

Jon, PM him :)

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You don't calibrate it for temperature, it is already calibrated for temperature, but if you need to adjust, here is how: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-07/rhf/

 

That is all, Christine :)

Yes I know, I was first referring to the instrument, needs to come from a dealer that can supply papers indicating its accuracy based on a calibration test. Secondly, if you are not using the hydrometer in water that is not what the instrument is calibrated for, you need to make adjustments based on your temp. :)

 

just for the record... if I am using a refractometer, is its 1.025 or 35ppt?

1.025 is not 35ppt.

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SouthFlorida_Tron

Yes I know, I was first referring to the instrument, needs to come from a dealer that can supply papers indicating its accuracy based on a calibration test. Secondly, if you are not using the hydrometer in water that is not what the instrument is calibrated for, you need to make adjustments based on your temp. :)

 

1.025 is not 35ppt.

i know, thats why I'm asking... 1.025, or 1.026-27? which one is best??? i don't even know anymore lol

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i know, thats why I'm asking... 1.025, or 1.026-27? which one is best??? i don't even know anymore lol

14441902010_b7f96b4e3e.jpg

 

 

last line is Specific Gravity.

 

Yellow box is best, Green box is optimum.

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jedimasterben

Yes I know, I was first referring to the instrument, needs to come from a dealer that can supply papers indicating its accuracy based on a calibration test. Secondly, if you are not using the hydrometer in water that is not what the instrument is calibrated for, you need to make adjustments based on your temp. :)

Ah, I gotcha, they're retail products so they should come with that in the box from TM. I would love a Dupla Marin one, but they are not distributed in NA and can't find any place that will ship it here. Would probably cost an arm to do so, too.

 

 

i know, thats why I'm asking... 1.025, or 1.026-27? which one is best??? i don't even know anymore lol

35ppt is typical seawater. I say typical because places like the Red Sea are higher, and some places such as mangrove habitats are lower. ppt is a better measurement, IMHO, just like I prefer ppm (or mg/L) versus dKH for alkalinity. :)

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I feel that when the hobby went from hydrometers to refractometers the hobby went backwards :D

 

 

And conductivity is the new hydrometer!

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So from my understanding traditional glass/floating hydrometers are more accurate than refractometers ? Or am I just not reading what wrote correctly ?

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