NanoTopia's ZEOvit 80L [ ]

[Hexadron]

JR if you want to drive to Canada for it I would give you a good frag. Can't mail it over the boarder unfortunately

 

We're going to have to talk next month

[SDartifex]

Hey Christine, I was wondering what you use if anything for PO₄ control. I'm very interested in the Zeo systems ability to handle phosphates since I'm not very happy with the quantity of GFO I need to use with the DIY carbon dose method.

[Spirofucci]

Hey Christine, I was wondering what you use if anything for PO₄ control. I'm very interested in the Zeo systems ability to handle phosphates since I'm not very happy with the quantity of GFO I need to use with the DIY carbon dose method.

Funny, I was wondering the same thing.

[NanoTopia]

Hey Christine, I was wondering what you use if anything for PO₄ control. I'm very interested in the Zeo systems ability to handle phosphates since I'm not very happy with the quantity of GFO I need to use with the DIY carbon dose method.

I use the Zeo-Reactor only along with the recommended carbon dosing (ZeoStart3). I have a low bio-load so it is fine to manage PO4/No3. In Zeovit it is not recommended to stock heavy. I have ATM one fish and two shrimps

 

GFO is very effective at removing PO4, I have used it in the past (RowaPhos). If you use too much it will kill corals quickly. A balanced Zeovit system is managed with the Zeolites (in a reactor), Bacteria (Zeobak) and carbon (ZeoStart3) dosing. I also use GAC.

 

Heavily fish stocked aquariums are not suitable for Zeovit systems.

[Veng]

I ended up getting a california tort, probably paid too much for it, but it was a decent frag. It's had a hard life in my tank though with the GFO overdose and it actually fragged some when I dropped the light in the other day. I think it's recovered from the GFO overdose and we'll see how it does over the next few months.

 

Also, to touch on a point about GFO, overdosing is very possible, my tank problems were from me not reading the directions and basically using 25x the recommended amount.

[1reefluvr2]

Christine, have you ever done 100% WC on any tank or heard of people doing them in a pico? I been wanting to try it out on my 2gallon spec.

 

I just wish I knew if my fish would suffer.

[Veng]

I've done 100% WC on my 10G and 20L before. If you match SG, temp, dKH, most everything is back and open in under about 5 minutes. I did about 75% for months on the 10G. If you don't match temp & SG you can start to see problems. Otherwise, the fish and corals really don't even know anything's different.

[1reefluvr2]

Thanks Veng! I should buy a hanna checker then. Im doing 50% right now witch is 1g but 100% would be better I think. I do 2 WC a week so thats 100% in two weeks but not all @1's

[Veng]

2 WC/week @ 50% is 94% over 2 weeks, which is great. Something to think about though is a 50% water change twice a week is probably better than a 100% water change once a week as your Ca, dKH, and Mg will a lot more stable even though you are only changing 75% of the water.

[1reefluvr2]

Veng, I was planning on doing 2,100% WC weekly . What are your thoughts on that?

[Veng]

It sounds like overkill IMHO, but there's nothing wrong with it.

[NanoTopia]

Funny, I was wondering the same thing.

It is possible with careful planning and implementation. As I mentioned GFO has to be handled carefully, better to start with 1/3 the recommended amount and build on it from there. That stuff will suck every bit of phosphate from your tank and then bound phospates from your sand and rock, really amazing stuff. I call it "Tank Sterilizer" now, LOL.

 

I ended up getting a california tort, probably paid too much for it, but it was a decent frag. It's had a hard life in my tank though with the GFO overdose and it actually fragged some when I dropped the light in the other day. I think it's recovered from the GFO overdose and we'll see how it does over the next few months.

 

Also, to touch on a point about GFO, overdosing is very possible, my tank problems were from me not reading the directions and basically using 25x the recommended amount.

The Cali Tort is generally a fast grower, I have found medium light works best for mine. I will check your site for pics of it

 

Christine, have you ever done 100% WC on any tank or heard of people doing them in a pico? I been wanting to try it out on my 2gallon spec. I just wish I knew if my fish would suffer.

They work but are not optimum for some corals, the change in water parameters (outside of S.G. and temp) are too dramatic. I have changed 50% in my pico on several occasions without issues, but I'm sure it adds an element of stress to the livestock. Never did a 100% WC before.

[1reefluvr2]

Ill try it and see how my corals react

[NanoTopia]

Veng, I was planning on doing 2,100% WC weekly . What are your thoughts on that?

If you need to do 100% WC's twice weekly I would re-think your system.

[1reefluvr2]

It is possible with careful planning and implementation. As I mentioned GFO has to be handled carefully, better to start with 1/3 the recommended amount and build on it from there. That stuff will suck every bit of phosphate from your tank and then bound phospates from your sand and rock, really amazing stuff. I call it "Tank Sterilizer" now, LOL.

 

 

The Cali Tort is generally a fast grower, I have found medium light works best for mine. I will check your site for pics of it

 

 

They work but are not optimum for some corals, the change in water parameters (outside of S.G. and temp) are too dramatic. I have changed 50% in my pico on several occasions without issues, but I'm sure it adds an element of stress to the livestock. Never did a 100% WC before.

 

I have a bicolor Pseudochromis

[SDartifex]

Thanks for the info! Though I was hoping if would work out with a heavy bio-load, I may still go with a zeo system if I can't find a better solution and adjust my stock accordingly

[NanoTopia]

Thanks for the info! Though I was hoping if would work out with a heavy bio-load, I may still go with a zeo system if I can't find a better solution and adjust my stock accordingly

SD, I have heard of some Zeo-users adding a little GFO on the side to help control PO4. I don't see a big problem with doing this if absolutely necessary, I would just start slow with it, very slow, ridiculously small amount, and watch your corals.

 

 

A tank with absolutely zero algae growth is a tank destined to fail in time. Don't fear algae, it's your friend (except for bryopsis) LOL.

 

 

Christine

[1reefluvr2]

What eats bryopsis?

[NanoTopia]

I have a bicolor Pseudochromis

[1reefluvr2]

I love my Teresa. She is allways out and about her tank pulled out Julia my TSB and Placed her in a bigger tank.

[NanoTopia]

What eats bryopsis?

Maybe a tuxedo urchin, but I have never tried it. It is one of those alga that spread quickly in higher nutrient tanks once it is introduced. I have battled it myself, and still have some in the tank. Your fingers are the best defence in some cases, just keep picking it out and keep nutrients low. I have tried the High magnesium method, but for me all it did was p##s off my corals and inverts. Dip the rocks (outside of the tank) in H2O2 that don't have corals attached (last ditch effort IMO).

[Hexadron]

What is recommended for PO4 when it's mainly SPS dominant? I hear some people saying aim for 0.03, but some say none at all, and others say a little higher. This is more of a general question for you Christine, not necessarily Zeo.

[SDartifex]

SD, I have heard of some Zeo-users adding a little GFO on the side to help control PO4. I don't see a big problem with doing this if absolutely necessary, I would just start slow with it, very slow, ridiculously small amount, and watch your corals.

 

 

A tank with absolutely zero algae growth is a tank destined to fail in time. Don't fear algae, it's your friend (except for bryopsis) LOL.

 

 

Christine

I agree and actually like to have a little GHA/macro's on the rocks to make things seem more natural, but since my tank already had a bryopsis outbreak and I'm battling dictyota in the fuge I have to monitor things very carefully..

 

 

JDH, I've always heard ideal levels were so low its near imposible to test with our hobby kits so just shoot for undetectable and let your corals tell you when its too low

[NanoTopia]

What is recommended for PO4 when it's mainly SPS dominant? I hear some people saying aim for 0.03, but some say none at all, and others say a little higher. This is more of a general question for you Christine, not necessarily Zeo.

All the standard methods work they just have to be used properly. I prefer one reactor, easier to keep track of what's doing what. GFO is fine to reduce PO4, just use 1/3 the recommended amount to start.

 

I like to keep my PO4 somewhere between minimal algae growth and STN.

 

Seriously, most PO4 test kits are not accurate enough to play the "0.00 ppm" game. Your eyes are a better guide for testing PO4. Here's the problem:

 

You need some PO4 to support life, most test kits that read zero are probably not telling you the truth, you may have a true zero (you will know this when everything in your tank dies), or something above zero. The aim is for 0.001ppm to 0.03ppm for PO4. If you measure 0.02ppm you may really have 0.05ppm (or more...or less), get where I'm going?

 

Some signs PO4 is getting too low (according to me):

 

SPS turn pail or loose coloration (LPS begin to bleach or tissue recedes)

SPS polyps retract (when PE is normally good)

Green algae stops growing and begins to loose colour and go translucent

Coralline algae looses colour and may go white

Bacteria populations decrease (this may be hard to tell)

Other organisms are not flourishing

STN/RTN (PO4 rapidly reduced or low for extended period)

 

List is not complete but it's a start

 

Aim for 0.02ppm PO4

 

 

Christine

[Hexadron]

JDH, I've always heard ideal levels were so low its near imposible to test with our hobby kits so just shoot for undetectable and let your corals tell you when its too low

 

Thanks

 

All the standard methods work they just have to be used properly. I prefer one reactor, easier to keep track of what's doing what. GFO is fine to reduce PO4, just use 1/3 the recommended amount to start.

 

I like to keep my PO4 somewhere between minimal algae growth and STN.

 

Seriously, most PO4 test kits are not accurate enough to play the "0.00 ppm" game. Your eyes are a better guide for testing PO4. Here's the problem:

 

You need some PO4 to support life, most test kits that read zero are probably not telling you the truth, you may have a true zero (you will know this when everything in your tank dies), or something above zero. The aim is for 0.001ppm to 0.03ppm for PO4. If you measure 0.02ppm you may really have 0.05ppm (or more...or less), get where I'm going?

 

Some signs PO4 is getting too low (according to me):

 

SPS turn pail or loose coloration (LPS begin to bleach or tissue recedes)

SPS polyps retract (when PE is normally good)

Green algae stops growing and begins to loose colour and go translucent

Coralline algae looses colour and may go white

Bacteria populations decrease (this may be hard to tell)

Other organisms are not flourishing

STN/RTN (PO4 rapidly reduced or low for extended period)

 

List is not complete but it's a start

 

Aim for 0.02ppm PO4

 

 

Christine

 

Great write-up, thank you. I'm sure this will help many.

 

I recently picked up a Hanna Phosphorus checker which can measure higher resolution. My last two tests showed 0.03 PO4. I guess what you're saying is there's really no magic number - but a round-a-bout 'goal'. Thanks for posting the list of signs as well. This will be very helpful!