04V10 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I'm thinking you need to do about an 80% water change all at once Matching temp and specific gravity Doing a %20 tonight. I had done a large change previously with no change unfortunately. Params are great though... Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...359&page=11 look at what Mitch did at the bottom of this page with his Valonia problem! Tank has a lot of delicate sps this thread also has a lot of really large tanks doing the treatment Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 reefmiser it would be the greatest thing if we can get all the original treaters to post update pics to prove it's a long term solution tell a little bit about the journey of 2011 and how much work was required to keep your tank looking great for me it was the least work of the 6 years of the life of my tank. I neglected water quality more than ever but I treated a tiny pencil eraser size spot of gha and a spot of red twice all year long. I was able to photograph the best results with the least work I've ever done in any years time for a pico reef because of peroxide spot treatments, in tank ones. Quote Link to comment
acropora1981 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 reefmiser it would be the greatest thing if we can get all the original treaters to post update pics to prove it's a long term solution You can see my tank is now devoid of Valonia and caulerpa because of this procedure. Just check my newest fts on my thread. Quote Link to comment
bsdryder7 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 SO DO I HAVE TO TAKE THE ROCK OUT TO SPOT TREAT IT OR CAN I USE A SYRINGE TO SPOT IN THE TANK ?? AND IF I HAVE TO TAKE THE ROCK OUT SHOULD I BE CARFUL WITH DISTURBING THE SAND BED CAUSE I HAVE HEARD IT CAN RELEASE NITRATE POCKETS?? Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 yes that's a good call when pouring water pour very slowly if you don't have cleaner shrimp, anemones or decorative macro algae you can treat in tank After one treatment, if you hit all the algae 90% will fall off the rocks clean in three days do a follow up water change after the treatment, just a short exposure the water change exports it back out Can you post your before pics Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Turf Algae August 2011 September: In october it was a chia pet. I pulled it out by hand and scrubbed but it came back. Then I drizzled undiluted peroxide on it, (this is a bi valve BTW so I had to be careful) and the stuff sizzled and bubbled for over 3-4 minutes. Put it back in the tank. Macros survived, clam is happy. Not a lick of turf algae, been over 3 months. In fact you can see the shell for the first time. This is the first photo, before it became a problem: Quote Link to comment
bsdryder7 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 i have a cleaner and anemone dang it .......how are torch corals with this treatment ?? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 My torch coral wasn't dipped. Quote Link to comment
bsdryder7 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 can u just take the rock out of water for a few seconds while u spot treat it ?? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 yes and that was a clam i took out for 5 minutes BTW, it's not a rock. He likes to pretend he's a rock. Quote Link to comment
bsdryder7 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 yes that's a good call when pouring water pour very slowly if you don't have cleaner shrimp, anemones or decorative macro algae you can treat in tank After one treatment, if you hit all the algae 90% will fall off the rocks clean in three days do a follow up water change after the treatment, just a short exposure the water change exports it back out Can you post your before pics My torch coral wasn't dipped. yes and that was a clam i took out for 5 minutes BTW, it's not a rock. He likes to pretend he's a rock. wow thats brave to take out your clam for 5 mins out of water .....whats the limit of time any coral should be out of the water before you start to kill them?? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 He's a tough guy, his name is humpty. He came as a hitch hiker in a box with no water and sat in a box with no water for 3 days. 5 minutes? pffft. Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) That's neat know they are that tough I'll keep that in mind. I think all corals we keep can do a minute or two no prob as safety And much more likely I personally have left my bowl of 15 kinds of coral empty for up to 8 mins seriatopora and decorative sponges (that most don't keep) don't like emersion but the majority of what we keep does not mind Edited February 26, 2012 by brandon429 Quote Link to comment
jason8612 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 I either got some bryopsis or some maidens hair that is starting to overrun my tank. I can try the Kent Tech-M stuff. I'm thinking about the H2O2, but I'm worried about how much to add to the tank. The tank is a 8gal nano reef with a fish, snails, and shrimp and softies. I can't remove the rocks as the whole group are attached, nor can I drain the tank down as the algae is touching the sand bed. So I would have to dose the tank. Is this possible? Quote Link to comment
djfrankn Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 I either got some bryopsis or some maidens hair that is starting to overrun my tank.I can try the Kent Tech-M stuff. I'm thinking about the H2O2, but I'm worried about how much to add to the tank. The tank is a 8gal nano reef with a fish, snails, and shrimp and softies. I can't remove the rocks as the whole group are attached, nor can I drain the tank down as the algae is touching the sand bed. So I would have to dose the tank. Is this possible? Hey Jason, I would try with doing spot treatments with a turkey baster instead of trating a whole tank. Remember that this thing will kill algae, some pods, worms and maybe something else. So, ammonia and nitrate spikes plus ph drops would not be unusual. Frank. Quote Link to comment
jason8612 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 I was thinking of the spot treatments using a syringe and turning off the filter. I do have xenias in the tank. From what I read thru this long thread, the average for tank dosing is 1ml for 10gal. This is a 30L (8gal) tank, minus the rock and sand so hovering around I think 6.5gal or so. Thus 0.65ml would be standard. If I used lets say 1/2 to 2/3 that amount, then after about 10min did a 25% water change, my level would be way under 1/2 of the dosing amount which hopefully will be fine for my xenia. I don't find a nuisance at all as it stays on their side of the tank. Some photos Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 You will find the drain and treat method ideal because it concentrates the peroxide you are about to broadcast apply, and you can use less overall drain the tank as far as you can, treat those accessible areas first. They will die in three days Then take care of the last bit after you are motivated from cleaning the top 2/3! I suspect the last bit can be taken care of with one last drain. Broadcast apply the peroxide when the water is drained...let sit for two mins then change it all out with fresh saltwater it will kill off the last patch and your tank will be clean The tank was open aquascaped and easily accessible that's what stood out about the drain and treat Quote Link to comment
jason8612 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 You will find the drain and treat method ideal because it concentrates the peroxide you are about to broadcast apply, and you can use less overall drain the tank as far as you can, treat those accessible areas first. They will die in three days Then take care of the last bit after you are motivated from cleaning the top 2/3! I suspect the last bit can be taken care of with one last drain. Broadcast apply the peroxide when the water is drained...let sit for two mins then change it all out with fresh saltwater it will kill off the last patch and your tank will be clean The tank was open aquascaped and easily accessible that's what stood out about the drain and treat So, Drain the tank down to a 1/3 or so. Add the peroxide to the areas..how? paper towel with peroxide? Just drop on it? a spray bottle might be too much. And if I get the last part, do you mean just use the bottom 1/3 of the water and dose it and then empty it? I'm worried about the blenny. Catching him will be near impossible. Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Yes just use a dropper of some kind, one or two drops per area to keep it to a minimum The fish should not be affected no matter how you treat, we haven't seen fish mortality in any peroxide thread on any forum, any kind of fish. We can wait to kill the bottom parts after the top is done no hurry That gives us time to make a gameplan for the final dose your tank will be the first 1 with the sexy shrimp that we've treated so i'm thinking of ways to keep the doses low The tank needs cleaning though, that's first priority to prevent further spread Quote Link to comment
jason8612 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) Yes just use a dropper of some kind, one or two drops per area to keep it to a minimum The fish should not be affected no matter how you treat, we haven't seen fish mortality in any peroxide thread on any forum, any kind of fish. We can wait to kill the bottom parts after the top is done no hurry That gives us time to make a gameplan for the final dose your tank will be the first 1 with the sexy shrimp that we've treated so i'm thinking of ways to keep the doses low The tank needs cleaning though, that's first priority to prevent further spread OK I'm going to pick up some bigger buckets, some tubing for the draining and some 3% H2O2 today. I'll also get a syringe and needles. Also, I got a hand sanitizing spray from CVS. I think the little bottle would be perfect for spot spraying. I'm thinking of emptying it out (as it's almost empty) and cleaning it well and using it for spot spray. What do you think? Edited February 26, 2012 by jason8612 Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Yes that's cool for sure I've had 1 of those before they are a highly efficient misting sprayer the in tank treatment is the only 1 I've run on my vase, don't wanna take out the rocks after I refill the tank, which puts the proxide I used into solution, another large water change is ran to export as much back out In tank treatments should be heavy with water changes IMO Like Kat mentioned above the pics show your rock can be lifted straight up and out for treatment this allows you to use an unlimited amount of peroxide directly on the algae, then rinse it allows you to clean/siphon up under the rocks too and its guaranteed safe for the tank if you can possibly do an external treatment Quote Link to comment
jason8612 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 OK to update. So I did the spot treatment method. I took out the top rock and the rock on the right. For the top rock, I misted it with the 3% H2O2 in a empty bucket and let it sit for a few minutes. Instantly I saw bristle worms coming out and dying but nothing to the algae. No fizzing, foaming, etc. I then rinsed it off with a fresh saltwater mix. for the other rock (bottom right) I went and used the drop method. I filled a syringe and used a needle to hit all the clusters of the green algae. I then waited and rinsed it off. I also used some towels and gloves in case of the bristle worms. While I was waiting, I siphoned my tank at the bottom to remove some debris. During this process, the blenny was freaking out. I guess him not having all his little caves pissed him off. I did some 50% water change after I put the rocks back in and with the rinse, there shouldn't be (or very little) H2O2 left. Below are photos an hour later - not much changed. The corals are opening up or are opened up. The blenny is happy he got his home back. Only thing is I cannot find the shrimp. I was very careful putting the rocks back in place and had the shrimp in view the whole time. Since I put the rocks back, Mr. Shrimp is missing. Photos of before An hour later Quote Link to comment
jason8612 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 And just now the shrimp came out back on his home. So far no causalities... Quote Link to comment
brandon429 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 That is really nice work We won't miss a few bristleworms! You are right about the fizzing the algae doesn't show much But by Tuesday, you will see a big difference thank you for posting the before and after pics! Quote Link to comment
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