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20long barrier/lagoon build


bird

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lol i was like how are u going to maintain the return pump if its inclosed in the box?

I can just get my hand to it. I have big hands so it is difficult. I tried it and it was a struggle, but I can always get someone with smaller arm to help if needed.

The overflow I will put a removable basket so I can run a filter media and floss.

Cheato will be in the bottom and a light at the back wall shinning in during night time. I imagine a sponge over the return pump will keep small bits out of intake.

I rose the pump up about 3 inches so it does not collect too much.

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If the sump/compartment are under the shallow end I don't think it would matter if the power went out. It would jsut lower the water down to a point that no more would enter the overflow is all. The underside would jsut have LR rubble and chaeto so wouldn't matter if the level rose.

Unless I am misunderstanding you.

 

What I imagine happening is the level equalizing and filling the bottom part entirely but also leaving the shallow end high and dry. depending on the amount of water in the sump area while running, there will be more or less of a lowering of the water level. If the pump is off it will reverse, and having the return at the bottom of your tank would make all the water above that opening to flow into the sump area. You can keep the sump completely full and then avoid this problem.

 

When you get around to testing your tank, keep the level of water in the sump at a minimum and cut the power for the return, you'll see how much flows back.

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I rose the pump up about 3 inches so it does not collect too much.

I think you may have addressed the issue I was talking about, the return outlet is now higher?

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i have just one more question =/

if theres a air buble suck inside whats going to happen?

 

i was thinking of making something like that but a removeable/slideable tray with sand.

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What I imagine happening is the level equalizing and filling the bottom part entirely but also leaving the shallow end high and dry. depending on the amount of water in the sump area while running, there will be more or less of a lowering of the water level. If the pump is off it will reverse, and having the return at the bottom of your tank would make all the water above that opening to flow into the sump area. You can keep the sump completely full and then avoid this problem.

 

When you get around to testing your tank, keep the level of water in the sump at a minimum and cut the power for the return, you'll see how much flows back.

Well, the level in the bottom chamber will be to near the top since it will be a refugium and also have an ATO hooked in.

When the flow shuts off tank should only drop about an inch +/-, just enough to equalize the overflow.

I left the black trim because the water level will be to the bottom of that to allow for waves without sloshing over.

 

i have just one more question =/

if theres a air buble suck inside whats going to happen?

 

i was thinking of making something like that but a removeable/slideable tray with sand.

Not quite sure understand. Air bubble suck inside what? The bottom chamber? If that is what you mean, don't think it would matter since the overflow is open.

 

 

I think it looks pretty good... excited to see how it works out.

 

Are you going to paint the sides to hide the pump area?

Looking at making a thin black acrylic cover so I can remove it and see inside to service.

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w8 u dont have any cambers inside the sump?

i guess that would be fine then. nvm

 

i though u put chambers so u can have chaeto and not have it get sucked in your pump.

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w8 u dont have any cambers inside the sump?

i guess that would be fine then. nvm

 

i though u put chambers so u can have chaeto and not have it get sucked in your pump.

the flow will be low enough and with a sponge on the pump it shouldn't cause any problems.

 

 

Put a blindfold on and make sure you can do whatever you may need to do with the pump in the future ;)

I am going to put a removable cover over the side and front so I can see into it when needed. The back will have the PC light for the algae.

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Well, the level in the bottom chamber will be to near the top since it will be a refugium and also have an ATO hooked in.

When the flow shuts off tank should only drop about an inch +/-, just enough to equalize the overflow.

I left the black trim because the water level will be to the bottom of that to allow for waves without sloshing over.

:) shouldn't be a problem now. It's looking really cool bird, cant wait to see this thing stocked!

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:) shouldn't be a problem now. It's looking really cool bird, cant wait to see this thing stocked!

Thanks.

I am moving my sps and zoanthids. SPS will be on the upper wall under the MH along with the high light zoanthids. Others spreading down to the bottom.

I will probably run rock along the back from the wall and thinning down to the end. Room will be an issue, but at least I have learned my lesson I hope and will use much less rock in this tank so corals can spread out.

 

I cut black egg crate to fit tight inside the overflow and attached magnets so it can hold filter media and floss and can be removed to access underside.

Will give it a water test after work tomorrow.

 

 

Was thinking about what coolwaters said about chambers in the bottom.

I think something is probably needed. At this point it would be difficult to build something but I thought of getting some of that stuff used for needlepoint since it is net like and flexible.

I can roll it up, get it down inside and opened up.

If it is wider than the tank then it can open and hold against the sides rigid enough to stay in place and keep cheato from getting to the pump.

Plus, I think it is small holes enough to keep small bits from passing through.

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lnglostsurfer

Wow...looks like a lot has happened since I went off to work this morning...looking great! The only thing I might suggest, which I couldn't tell if it was already there...is some sort of small lip on the top shelf to help keep the sand there. Even with a good wall of rock I would think you would continually lose sand down to the lower level. This is totally what I was imagining, I'm jealous! Looking awesome, like they said....can't wait for the water test.

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Wow...looks like a lot has happened since I went off to work this morning...looking great! The only thing I might suggest, which I couldn't tell if it was already there...is some sort of small lip on the top shelf to help keep the sand there. Even with a good wall of rock I would think you would continually lose sand down to the lower level. This is totally what I was imagining, I'm jealous! Looking awesome, like they said....can't wait for the water test.

Yes, there is a 1 inch lip. I am, thinking I should have gone higher, but I can always add if needed.

 

I am most anxious to see what kind of flow my 2 MP10s will create pointed toward the shallow from the other end.

Might unhook them from the system they are on and see what they do with the tank full.

I am thinking on long pulse wave will make for some nice action.

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lnglostsurfer

Yeah, looking back through the pictures I did notice that. Looking really good, that would be awesome if you could actually get decent waves going. Are you going to try and get the sand bed to slope down at all to make a little beach almost close to the overflow? Don't know if it would stay that way...or maybe the MP10's will form that on it's own...really curious to see the flow on this and how the rest of the tank will react. Hurry up!

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You're bold, that's for sure.

 

I think this is an awesome idea, but I'm not sure how good this is going to look in a 20L (please prove me wrong!!!).

 

Anyways, If I come across any similar setups I'll post a link here.

 

Best of luck to you I will be following.

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Yes, there is a 1 inch lip. I am, thinking I should have gone higher, but I can always add if needed.

 

I am most anxious to see what kind of flow my 2 MP10s will create pointed toward the shallow from the other end.

Might unhook them from the system they are on and see what they do with the tank full.

I am thinking on long pulse wave will make for some nice action.

 

 

I hate to burst your bubble (seriously, I love your idea), but I'm not sure it will work well with the kind of flow you're planning on having in the tank. Using just *one* mp10 in my 20L, I can easily create a sandstorm. I have a feeling that when the mass of the water hits the shelf it will in fact cause a breaking wave, which will in turn throw sand EVERYWHERE. If you didn't add sand it would probably work just fine.... but you would still only need one mp10.

 

I hope I'm wrong!! This tank definitely has my attention.

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Now I need to think about a stand for the tank.

I could try to make one, but don't know how well that would turn out. Never been real good at things like that.

I can buy a 30" tall for $100 or a $36" for $150 but either one would be delayed due to lack of funds.

Both are unfinished so here is the dilemma if I go that route.

The tank is black trim so do I paint the stand black? If I do that does that not depreciate the value of the wood?

Maybe a black stain? If a black stain exists that is. I am sure it does.

Making one I am sure would be within my price range, but do not know the first thing about building one.

Anyone have any plans for a 30" long 36" tall stand?

 

 

OK, will be trying out the MP10s tonight to see what they do. The silicone should be cured enough to withstand the flow they will put out. Might even add some sand to the shallow and see how it acts.

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