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Professor's 40 Breeder


Professor

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:o At least it not unattractive....... :D

 

Seriously though that looks like a pain in the arse. It's so fine that manual removal would probably be very frustrating and tedious and probably impossible. Maybe try a small abalone? My LFS gets some in that leave a bare patch across everything they crawl on. Looks like someone harvesting a corn field. Next time I am there I will see what type they are. They are about 1-2" long and kinda ugly.....

 

 

-Prof

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Deleted User 6

The hermits and nerites have actually started to turn the tide on this stuff. I'd say the top tank will be done by year end. The bottom tank is another story...

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I had a plague of that red cotton sh*t in my 20 gallon tank. It was all over the display, got in the fuge, was growing in the chaeto - it was terrible.

 

I never really found any specific thing that worked on it. As usual, it slowly subsided with good husbandry and diligent gnashing of teeth. Also, try blaming someone. I find that helpful.

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questions about your most rockn stand professor.

 

the face frame joints are pocket hole, how well are they holding. have been planning similar a biuld but keep reading about pocket hole being an inferior joint, to morter & tenon joinery. if the joint will be subjected to a dynamic enviroment such as beds or a vibrating fish tank. thus I keep putting it of. with your experience level in woodworking is there maby a trick that you used to strenghten the pocket holes that I simply missed. also could not tell which type of matrial was used to skin the sides of your stand. if it was multiple boards edge glued to cover the nessary width how did you allow for the coresponding wood movement.

 

trully impressive biuld & tank.

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questions about your most rockn stand professor.

 

the face frame joints are pocket hole, how well are they holding. have been planning similar a biuld but keep reading about pocket hole being an inferior joint, to morter & tenon joinery. if the joint will be subjected to a dynamic enviroment such as beds or a vibrating fish tank. thus I keep putting it of. with your experience level in woodworking is there maby a trick that you used to strenghten the pocket holes that I simply missed. also could not tell which type of matrial was used to skin the sides of your stand. if it was multiple boards edge glued to cover the nessary width how did you allow for the coresponding wood movement.

 

trully impressive biuld & tank.

 

 

Bitts,

Good eye. While I am a big fan of traditional joinery and use it it quite extensively (mortis and tenon, dovetails, etc), I did indeed use pocket holes for the construction of this stand. You are correct that pocket hole joinery is not inherently strong because the shear strength of the screws is not that great. This is particularly bad news for vertical force applications like a aquarium stand. However, when used in conjunction with a quality adhesive and a well thought out design this type of joinery can greatly speed up construction and assembly time, have high strength and look good as well. This is the reason it is now almost the standard in the commercial cabinetry industry.

 

To further answer your question, the front face-frame and side and back skins do nothing for support of the aquarium. Their purpose is for aesthetics and lateral strengthening. The frame work that was constructed first holds the aquariums weight and transfers the energy directly into the floor vertically. While I used pocket holes in this phase too if you look carefully at some of my first pics of the stand you will see vertical bracing underneath all of the stretchers that are laminated to the leg and the upper and lower stretcher. This allows for quick construction using the pocket holes, but takes the weight of the tank off of the mechanical fastener (the pocket hole screw). In addition, everything was assembled with glue as well as the screws. See detail below:

 

scan0003.jpg

 

IRT to how I skinned the stand: I used 1/4" plywood for the back, 3/4" Oak plywood for the sides and 3/4" solid Oak for the front face-frame. When using plywood the order of cut and assembly is important to keep those hard-to-finish raw plywood edges covered. In this case the back goes on first. The sides are then applied which covers the exposed edges of the back piece of plywood. The front face-frame goes on last and covers the front raw plywood edges of the sides. Some trim around the top and you cannot tell it is not constructed of solid oak.

 

I am very happy with this design and it is rock solid both vertically and laterally. It will easily hold 2-3 times it's weight vertically.

 

I hope this answers your question.

 

 

 

I would like to blame Militant Jurist, I'm sure it's his fault somehow.

Possibly he wasn't Militant enough.

Problem solved now Weetie!!!! :D

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Bitts,

Good eye. While I am a big fan of traditional joinery and use it it quite extensively (mortis and tenon, dovetails, etc), I did indeed use pocket holes for the construction of this stand. You are correct that pocket hole joinery is not inherently strong because the shear strength of the screws is not that great. This is particularly bad news for vertical force applications like a aquarium stand. However, when used in conjunction with a quality adhesive and a well thought out design this type of joinery can greatly speed up construction and assembly time, have high strength and look good as well. This is the reason it is now almost the standard in the commercial cabinetry industry.

 

To further answer your question, the front face-frame and side and back skins do nothing for support of the aquarium. Their purpose is for aesthetics and lateral strengthening. The frame work that was constructed first holds the aquariums weight and transfers the energy directly into the floor vertically. While I used pocket holes in this phase too if you look carefully at some of my first pics of the stand you will see vertical bracing underneath all of the stretchers that are laminated to the leg and the upper and lower stretcher. This allows for quick construction using the pocket holes, but takes the weight of the tank off of the mechanical fastener (the pocket hole screw). In addition, everything was assembled with glue as well as the screws. See detail below:

 

scan0003.jpg

 

IRT to how I skinned the stand: I used 1/4" plywood for the back, 3/4" Oak plywood for the sides and 3/4" solid Oak for the front face-frame. When using plywood the order of cut and assembly is important to keep those hard-to-finish raw plywood edges covered. In this case the back goes on first. The sides are then applied which covers the exposed edges of the back piece of plywood. The front face-frame goes on last and covers the front raw plywood edges of the sides. Some trim around the top and you cannot tell it is not constructed of solid oak.

 

I am very happy with this design and it is rock solid both vertically and laterally. It will easily hold 2-3 times it's weight vertically.

 

I hope this answers your question.

 

 

 

 

Problem solved now Weetie!!!! :D

 

 

 

professor thank you for your time and knowledge, is most appreciated.

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Deleted User 6
For DHaut

100_1126.jpg

 

Just saw this. Nice B)

 

And I concur on entering the fuge. Just remember though, the second you put a fish in there, it's not a fuge anymore! lol. (and it will happen. you can't resist that temptation long)

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Just saw this. Nice B)

 

And I concur on entering the fuge. Just remember though, the second you put a fish in there, it's not a fuge anymore! lol. (and it will happen. you can't resist that temptation long)

 

All right, I will try and get a decent pic of it and throw it in the ring for consideration. I have never entered one of the contests because my photography skills are a bit remedial, but I will try.

 

No plans for a fish in the fuge anytime soon, although you never know what the future holds!

 

-Prof

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  • 5 weeks later...

Now that I have survived the holidays I guess it is time to update this thread. Hope everyone had a great Christmas and a good start to the New Year!!! Not much has been going on with the 40, just letting everything kinda grow out and do it's thing. I have not added anything new although now that Christmas is over with I probably will start picking up some pieces again.

 

I have decided that I am going to start a new tank and transfer my few SPS over to it. The softies do a much better job dealing with the anemones than SPS and two of my SPS have already gotten tagged. I will leave most of the Monipora in the 40, but will be taking a few good sized frags for the new tank. I am in the process of planning a AIO out of a 5.5g tank that will be the new SPS Bonzai tank. I will probably move my Duncans over to it as well. I am planning on this new tank also being home to some Pom-Pom Crabs and would like to get some commensual crabs for my SPS. I will probably move over my YCG as well. I am hoping my order from the Dr's will be in this week so I can get started on the build, although the lights are on backorder.

 

On a down note, I lacerated my right index finger over the holidays with a wood carving knife, severing one of the arteries. I also have some nerve damage as well. So this new little tank is going to be a while being built because I am still having a little trouble using the hand right now.

 

Anyway, on to some recent pics!

 

Nems and Clowns

100_1263-1.jpg

100_1262.jpg

 

Birdnest

100_1261.jpg

 

Montis / right side of tank

100_1259.jpg

 

Left side of tank

100_1260.jpg

 

Crooked FTS

100_1256.jpg

 

As always inputs, criticism and dirty remarks welcome!

 

-Prof

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Love those montis - they're really growing out. And the nems are really cool as well. They don't move around on you?

 

Thanks D. The montis are still some of my favorites.

 

All the nems pretty much had stayed put until the RBTA split. The two splits wandered around for a couple of weeks driving me crazy until they found their sweet spot. They have been static now for about 3 weeks so I think I am good, at least until they split again! I think I am going to get three more clowns so I can have the whole harem thing going on in there. Just call me the Clownfish Pimp!

 

-Prof

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Great pics Prof!

 

Sorry about the hand my friend, get well soon.

 

Thanks NRF!!! Fortunately I heal pretty quick

 

-Prof

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  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up a few things today so I am throwing some pics up as well as some other random shots. Found a new BTA today, it is a speckled green one with awesome orange on the tips. Unfortunately my pics don't do it justice.

 

Also picked up a pom-pom crab for a new tank I am working on. It's a female and is carrying a egg mass under her apron. Pics are of her chillin in the 40 while I set up a little one gallon cube to be her temp home until the eggs hatch. Been doing some research and might try to rear them. Need to go back to the store and pick up a male to see if I can establish a breeding pair.

 

Anyway, on to the pics!

 

New Nem:

100_1264.jpg

100_1265.jpg

 

Pom-Pom with egg sac:

100_1267.jpg

 

Close up of Duncan:

100_1270.jpg

 

Other random stuff:

100_1269.jpg

100_1271.jpg

100_1272.jpg

100_1273.jpg

 

Enjoy!

 

-Prof

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My Pom Pom crab starting releasing larvae tonight into the water colummn of the temp tank she is living in. I was able to siphon off a few and have them seperated in a specimen container that is isolated in the fuge to keep the temp stable. I have offered various types of food for the larvae and we will wait and see what happens.

 

-Prof

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My Pom Pom crab starting releasing larvae tonight into the water colummn of the temp tank she is living in. I was able to siphon off a few and have them seperated in a specimen container that is isolated in the fuge to keep the temp stable. I have offered various types of food for the larvae and we will wait and see what happens.

 

-Prof

very cool, hope they make it.

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Hey Prof,

 

Congrats on birthing some larvae, I think I saw my pom-pom with an eggsac once before as well...not sure if they ever hatched though.

 

I read through much of your build thread, since you've been keeping tabs on mine and we've been discussing clownfish harems. If I were you (and you may know this) I would trade/sell away your existing clowns, then try to buy several clowns from the same clutch. I would even ask that you get them essentially as soon as they are through the metamorphal stage and safe to ship. Very few people keep harems in captivity successfully it seems, and those who do seem to have only done so from having bred their own or from obtaining them as young as possible.

 

Just my thoughts! Good luck!

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Hey Prof,

 

Congrats on birthing some larvae, I think I saw my pom-pom with an eggsac once before as well...not sure if they ever hatched though.

 

I read through much of your build thread, since you've been keeping tabs on mine and we've been discussing clownfish harems. If I were you (and you may know this) I would trade/sell away your existing clowns, then try to buy several clowns from the same clutch. I would even ask that you get them essentially as soon as they are through the metamorphal stage and safe to ship. Very few people keep harems in captivity successfully it seems, and those who do seem to have only done so from having bred their own or from obtaining them as young as possible.

 

Just my thoughts! Good luck!

 

P-daddy,

Although my original plan was to have a harem of clowns I am not sure I will be doing that anymore. First off my wife and kids are really fond of my current pair (as am I) and they have been with me a long time. To trade or sell them off just to start again with a harem seems wrong.

 

While I agree that the most successful way to to create a harem is to start with a group of small juveniles, I disagree that they should be from the same clutch. While that may make your chances of success higher for a true harem, the subsequent spawning of these fish has the potential for genetic weakness. I point to the newest rage of Naked and Picasso clowns. If you examine the ones in your LFS and pics on line, successive selectively bred generations that produce these traits are starting to show skeletal abnormalities, particularly around the head. This is most evident on the naked clowns and I have seen some that do not show the same head structure as normal clowns. As the demand for more and more of these animals increases, this problem will probably get worse IMHO, as well as other less obvious genetic weakness that will ultimately result in a fish that is not robust. We have proven this out with various species of cat, dog, fish, horse etc. Unfortunately as long as the demand exists, people will continue to breed them. I shudder to think of the deaths from the culling process for these batches.

 

Obviously I am not a fan of hybridization and would hate to see the marine fish breeders start to produce some of the monstrosities that the freshwater scene sees. If my pair spawn, I am prepared to raise the young. I will also be able to sleep at night knowing the clowns I raise will not be a window-licker on the short bus.

 

-Prof

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Is it terribly wrong that I LOL'ed at that last sentence? :unsure:

 

Reminds me, a few years ago our daughter had to ride a ... um...short bus. For whatever reason the stop had only a few students that year so they used a "cart".

 

I didn't understand why she was so upset. :P

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Is it terribly wrong that I LOL'ed at that last sentence? :unsure:

 

Reminds me, a few years ago our daughter had to ride a ... um...short bus. For whatever reason the stop had only a few students that year so they used a "cart".

 

I didn't understand why she was so upset. :P

 

Not at all NRF! I laughed as I typed it. :D

 

I can see why your daughter was upset. :o That had to be traumatizing, or what my parents used to call "character building"!

 

-Prof

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