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20g of solid starfire sexiness


Kimberly63

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Moving stuff over shouldn't be too hard... just make sure your parameters are in line, and make sure you acclimate your livestock as if you had just bought it.

 

Nice tank BTW. I've been following MacheteAvenue's thread and now I see this one... I want to build a low cube!

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Kimberly63
Moving stuff over shouldn't be too hard... just make sure your parameters are in line, and make sure you acclimate your livestock as if you had just bought it.

 

Nice tank BTW. I've been following MacheteAvenue's thread and now I see this one... I want to build a low cube!

 

Thanks!

 

I'm just worried I'll move everything over and then have a cycle of some sort. Since I just filled the tank, my parameters will be normal at least for now.

 

I might wait until I get the fuge set up and get some pods in there. My blenny completely demolished my pod population. -_-

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In theory it should work fine, but sometimes there is a mini-cycle of just a few days.

I've actually done it myself with no problems.

Why don't you just move half of the LR over from the 10 and if your params look fine for 5 days, go ahead and move everything else over.

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Kimberly63
In theory it should work fine, but sometimes there is a mini-cycle of just a few days.

I've actually done it myself with no problems.

Why don't you just move half of the LR over from the 10 and if your params look fine for 5 days, go ahead and move everything else over.

 

I'm not sure if I have any rock in my tank that doesn't have something on it but I'll look. I may have some small pieces of rubble that I can move over for now.

 

The 20g is all new tank water. I'm waiting to do a water change on the 10 and move some of that water over to the 20.

 

I'm so excited - I can hardly wait! :happydance:

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Kimberly63

Can anyone help me figure out a way to do a cover? It's hard to think of something since the Loc-line is kinda in the way. -_-

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Kimberly63

Well on friday I went and got two pieces (around 1.5lbs) of cured live rock from the lfs. I put them in the tank and let it do it's thing. I did a water change on the 10g and put that water in the 20g. Saturday morning, I had a wet floor from the 20g. I lost about 2 gallons of water from the sump because there is a leak somewhere. :( I emptied the sump, took it out and replaced it with a large bucket. It'll have to work for now until I get the sump fixed.

 

I also moved a large colony of zoanthids from the 10g into the 20g to see how they'd do and they are doing fine. I guess once I get a top made (hopefully this week) I'll move everything over. :happy: I made a cover for my overflow this weekend too which I'll post pics of later.

 

fts3.jpg

 

Nothing else exciting going on. Just waiting to see if I have a cycle of some sort. It's been 7 days since I added water and sand to the tank and 3 days since I added the rock.

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I'm sorry about all your problems with leaks.

It's making me a little nervous about plumbing my own build, which should start happening around the end of this week.

Is it happening around the bulkheads?

Did you seal the bulkheads?

 

I would personally be inclined to put a cover over the tank but leave the overflow uncovered just to allow for more oxygenation of the water.

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Kimberly63
I'm sorry about all your problems with leaks.

It's making me a little nervous about plumbing my own build, which should start happening around the end of this week.

Is it happening around the bulkheads?

Did you seal the bulkheads?

 

I would personally be inclined to put a cover over the tank but leave the overflow uncovered just to allow for more oxygenation of the water.

 

No I didn't seal the bulkheads.

 

The sump was a used wet/dry filter that had added baffles and it had the plumbing running into the side so he had a bulkhead in there. Well, I didn't have room for all the plumbing on the back so I added an end cap to the bulkhead to leave it closed and it's leaking around it somewhere. I could silicone it but I haven't gotten around to it. I think the rubber ring might be old or maybe there's a hidden crack in the bulkhead.

 

I actually made a cover for my overflow out of the plastic canvas. :) I had a ton extra and I was bored. I don't think I can make my lid to fit close to the overflow since the loc-line is in the way so I'm scared of my fishes jumping. :scarry:

 

I still need to figure out a lid. I think I may do bridal veil (tulle). Not sure quite yet...

 

Good luck on your plumbing. I'm sure it'll go smoother than mine did. :)

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I think Mr. Fosi might be able to help you on making a lid, he's done one himself.

I'll need to do that eventually too since I want to add a nice Wrasse or two to the new system and they're jumpers.

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Kimberly63
I think Mr. Fosi might be able to help you on making a lid, he's done one himself.

I'll need to do that eventually too since I want to add a nice Wrasse or two to the new system and they're jumpers.

 

Yeah after my onyx jumped, I'm not taking any chances. Fish are too expensive -_-

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Kimberly63

Well, I guess I'm cycling.

 

I said to myself "well, today is the day!" I was gonna move everything over. Well I tested and I'm definitely going through a cycle:

 

pH around 8.1

Nitrate 0ppm

Ammonia around .50 (I can't really tell the shade of toxic green)

Nitrite .25

 

I have a rock of zoanthids in there and they still look good so I'll just leave them in there for the time being and keep an eye on them.

 

I feel so antsy :lol:

 

Good thing I tested! I had rubber gloves on ready to go!

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you shouldnt have to seal the bulkheads. the gasket might be old or not seated right. Problem is that if you seal the bucket, if your ever need to remove it etc, its alot tougher to do with silicone.

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Kimberly63
you shouldnt have to seal the bulkheads. the gasket might be old or not seated right. Problem is that if you seal the bucket, if your ever need to remove it etc, its alot tougher to do with silicone.

 

Yeah the bulkhead on the sump looks old so it's probably the gasket. The thing is, it didn't seem to be leaking around the seal, but inside somewhere since I have it reversed - almost like the endcap wasn't pvc-glued enough. Who knows. I have a cat litter bucket as my sump now and it'll do for now. It's clean and I've been using it for over a year for water changes.

 

 

Also, lol, should I do waterchanges while I'm cycling? It's been to long to remember :huh:

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I have made a top for my 29 biocube out of 3/8" pond netting. The first one my yellow headed jawfish decided he would try to launch through the 3/8" square. The next day my wife has my 2 year old granddaughter call me at work and tell me the jawfish in on the carpet!!!!

So I refabbed and used two layers in a cross pattern. So far the new Bali tiger jaw has not gotten through that, and I have see it bounce off it a couple of times when surfacing for food.

Here is a picture of it.

 

01nettop.jpg

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Kimberly63
01nettop.jpg

 

That turned out really nice!

 

No WC while cycling unless you want to a "Soft Cycle".

 

I was thinking that maybe I should since I have a colony of zoanthids in there. They look fine so far so I wasn't sure what to do.

 

Does a soft cycle take longer?

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Kimberly63
just went through your entire thread, u got skills girl, keep up the good work

 

Aww thanks! Thank God it's done though lol. :)

 

 

 

 

Well I tested again yesterday:

 

Ammonia: .25-.30

Nitrates: 0

Nitrites: .25

pH: 8.2

 

 

Getting closer...

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Kimberly63

Okay so just a question to anyone who knows something about cycling. I clearly do not.

 

My leftover sand used to be "live" over a year ago. Obviously now it's dead and was stored away for future use. I washed the sand in DI water and put it in the tank but I probably didn't wash it as well as I thought - hence the hard cycle I'm having. I seeded the sand with some sand from my established tank - not a lot - maybe 2 tablespoons. I added a rock from my 10g to seed as well, along with 2 new cured rocks from the lfs.

 

Now, once my parameters are at 0, what's gonna happen if I accidentally "stir" up the sandbed? Will it kick start another cycle? Or will all the sand be "live" by then? The sandbed is really thin - probably about 1/2". I'm really nervous to disturb anything in the tank and by the time I transfer everything over, I don't want to make the ammonia spike again.

 

So will I be safe once my parameters are leveled out? Or should I mix up the sandbed now to get all the nasties out before I add all my livestock?

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Kimberly63

Ammonia: .25

Nitrates: 0

Nitrites: 0

pH: 7.8

 

:happydance:

 

Getting a cyano bloom too around the silicone under my sand. I should probably add another powerhead or something.

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Ammonia: .25

Nitrates: 0

Nitrites: 0

pH: 7.8

 

:happydance:

 

Getting a cyano bloom too around the silicone under my sand. I should probably add another powerhead or something.

 

First off 1/2" sand bed is a good depth providing you don't want and sand inhabiting fish, like jawfish of some of the gobies.

What test kit are you using? I have seen numerous people battling the .25 ammonia reading and find out that they are using IMO the POS Red Sea test kits.

When you are done cycling you first addition of CUC should include some Nassarius, Cerith snails and maybe a Florida Fighting Conch. These critters will keep you sand shifted around and will eat between them anything that wants to accumulate down there. That coupled with some good flow in the tank to keep the lighter detritus suspended in the water column for removal by mechanical filtration will serve you and your tank well. ;)

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Kimberly63
First off 1/2" sand bed is a good depth providing you don't want and sand inhabiting fish, like jawfish of some of the gobies.

What test kit are you using? I have seen numerous people battling the .25 ammonia reading and find out that they are using IMO the POS Red Sea test kits.

When you are done cycling you first addition of CUC should include some Nassarius, Cerith snails and maybe a Florida Fighting Conch. These critters will keep you sand shifted around and will eat between them anything that wants to accumulate down there. That coupled with some good flow in the tank to keep the lighter detritus suspended in the water column for removal by mechanical filtration will serve you and your tank well. ;)

 

Well I've been using API test kits they seem to be working okay the past year and a half. As for snails and other critters, I'm just dumping in what I have in the 10 gallon: 2 margarita snails, a nassarius, and a mexican turbo. I would add my powerhead, but it's still in my 10g for now. I don't really have an extra.

 

It's just been awhile since I cycled my tank and I can't remember everything I need to do

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay so I have some updates. None of them very good. :(

 

My tank was running fine and had gone through it's cycle and I was getting ready to transfer stuff over when I noticed there was a leak around the bulkhead again. AGAIN! So I tried to tighten it and I just couldn't because my stand frame was in the way. So my dad wants to come over and help trim some of the framing out so I can access the bulkheads better. So he ends up cutting a lil too much and having his saw slip because he was tired and to make a long story short, the top will no longer support the back corner of the tank and the whole top and back trim needs replaced. The tank is now on horses in my living room, mostly drained except for 2" of water and the sand and everything else is in a rubbermaid container. He feels bad about the stand so he said he'd like to work on it together when we both have time and fix it so I had to order a new stand for the time being. I wanted to kill him, but I refrained.

 

Let me just say, it's not easy trying to find a stand to fit a cube tank. The Solana stand is the only thing that I could find that would work and the top is 22x22 so my tank would fit perfectly being 20x20. I need it up and running because I'm going on vacation in a month and I can't have worries. I had the LFS order it on sunday.

 

Also have made some other changes. I don't want to and I know I'm gonna regret it, but I'm selling my light for less wattage. The only reason why is because my tank will creep up to 82 after about 6 or 7hrs, sometimes higher if i'm not careful and home to turn it off, adjust the air conditioner, etc and I can't afford a chiller. I'll be leaving for a week on July 30th and I have no one to watch my tank everyday. Well my mom or dad could but with them (not trying to be mean) there is 85% chance of something going wrong because of a mistake they make or something and I'd most likely come home to dead stuff. Three people want the light so I'll sell it for what I paid for it and I ordered a Current Sundial 150w HQI yesterday. I think I'll be happy with it because it has actinics and a built -in timer. My corals loved my Giesemann though :tears: Oh well. I rather be safe than sorry.

 

I also ordered a JBJ ATO so I'll have to figure out how I'm gonna hook it up. :/

 

Other than that, I should (please, oh please stand gods) get my stand on wednesday if the LFS supplier had them in stock. $200 for a freakin stand when I already had one. :angry: Oh well stupid mistakes happen.

 

Other than that, nothing else is new. I'll have pics when I get my new stand and get everything set up - I hope by friday. My new light should be here by monday or tuesday of next week.

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Not sure if this is your case but you might want to take a look to ELOS 20 Mini stand. It has all the weigh from the tank just in the side panels. The door closes flush to the tank so theres a little gap to make it open and close and the back wall doesn't go to the top where meets with the horizontal panel that actually sits under the tank. I draw this for you cause I didn't found any hepful picture to show you what I mean. Hope this helps and maybe could save you some money in car insurance (oops I felt GEICO lolz)

pic1-1.jpg

pic2-1.jpg

pic3-1.jpg

 

Keep in mind that ELOS makes their stands from particle board or compressed wood and you are actually using plywood and pine so yours 5x stronger. I made mine almost like ELOS' and its very strong tough so I can assure you there are no risks.

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