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StevieT's Red Sea Max Experience


StevieT

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haha. I may not have one for your now!!! I had all of these made up from the weekend, poof magically gone today, I don't know what happend.

 

I gots you, just have some love into your and send it out. NO, not the gross kind of love either :o

 

I'll take any kinda love from you StevieT!!! :wub:

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I'll take any kinda love from you StevieT!!! :wub:

 

 

Sweet!

 

Skimmer cup shipppity shipping tomorrow, totally custom, you will have a one and only Tunze Cup upgraded StevieT original.

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lilredneckman
I know a few have done the nanotuners upgrade, who they were I have to remember. You can also do a hang on light if you would like, but then you have an open top tank. I sent a light to Landlubber in New Zealand, 150W MH with 4 T5s. I don't think adding the light to the flip up lid is the best way to go, I would think you have to add it to the middle of the hood where the stock lighting is for best results.

 

Yeah now that i think about it, it seems like it wouldn't really be worth it. I figured that the flip up way wouldnt work to great since its so close to the front but i figured id just ask anyways.

 

Thanks StevieT!

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With all the talk about MH upgrades, I'm wondering if we shouldn't be looking at some of the new LED options. Heat should be easier to manage, and we could stick the LED's just about antwhere there was a little bit of open space.

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I think LED are the future, but for now the cost to light an entire reef is so high. There are models that run $2000+. There may be smaller LED options that are cheaper and can fit in the hood.

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It seems to have grown some since I got it, but yes, it is pretty large I suppose. Probably 5-6" long, fully open 4" or so wide.

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Thank you. I wish it had a few more colors but it really adds to the tank. From the top down it has a nice blue look to it, but from the front it is mostly purple. I am just happy it is doing so well under the stock lighting.

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Clams are indeed much more colorful looking through the top. The glass filters out a lot of the colored light wavelengths and those bright blue colors end up looking purple & much duller through glass. :huh:

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Clams are indeed much more colorful looking through the top. The glass filters out a lot of the colored light wavelengths and those bright blue colors end up looking purple & much duller through glass. :huh:

 

 

so what you are saying is that I have to remove my glass. I shall get right on that one! B)

 

damn wavelengths and their mystical color cramping powers.

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Whew alas... i got thru the 43 pages... Unfortunately, without a RSM at my side, its kinda hard for me to visualise and remember at this moment. Pls correct me if I am wrong. I have zero experience with saltwater tank and entire concept of nano all in one is foreign to me. Pls avoid acronym as u can assume me to say 'Huh?'

Not sure if i get it right. Please correct.

 

1) Clean up the tank, remove with razor blades the algae, fill up with Red Sea Pro salt to correct SG 1.025 to 1/4" below black molding.

2) Ditch the bioballs, ceramic rings, sponge from the back chamber. Fit in the wavemaker, chiller outlet, return pump. Ideally ditch the stock skimmer, buy Tunze 9002 with magnet fitting. Glue with superglue epoxy, get small rare earth magnet (size, shape?). Get the JBJ ATO, attached with magnet, set it 1/4" below water level. Throw in a cut black sponge or floss (changed every few week) for mechanical filtration. Throw in Chemipure elite, Seagel (remove bag) or Purigen to detoxify. Koralia #2 wavemaker recommended.

3) Put in 30 to 40lbs of live rock ideally without sand. Aquascape. Secure with waterproof epoxy, leave to cure for 12 hours inside the tank. If I dislike barebottom look, put in a bed of live sand to 1 inch. Ensure minimal contact point of live rocks with tank or sand.

4) Ditch the current light tubes (in use for 6mths) Replace the tubes

5) Fire up the tank switching on the pump, wavemaker, chiller as per normal but no need to turn on the skimmer. No need to worry about microbubbles initially. On T5 for 8-10 hours cycle.

BTW if my office operates from 9am to 9pm would ambient warm light adversely affects the tank?

6) Test the water for ammonia and nitrate the next day. If and when level is zero, fire up the skimmer and tank is ready for livestock. Test weekly for any spike in these parameters with Red Sea starter test kit. Fill ATO with reverse osmosis water or distilled water. Do weekly 3-4 gallon water change with bottled top up or self mix Red Sea Pro.

7) Put some cleaner crews in like 1 hermit crab, 2-3 turbo snail, 1x peppermint shrimp and perhaps one fish (Chromis?) Feed on alternate days.

8) Once stable, get some hardy soft corals like shrooms, yuma, zoos and stick it with epoxy on the liverocks at the mid or lower level. Wary of frogspawn, leather, anemone.

9) Dose with calcium twice weekly (brand, amount?) if there is more SPS. Anything else to dose?

10) When ready for upgrade get StevieT Media Rack 2.0 and StevieT Tunze 9002 skimmer cup. Put floss on media rack, attached with magnet.

 

Some livestocks on my wishlist.

 

1) Ultimately, I intend to put in Frogspawn to hopefully host a percula clown, where should i place it?

2) I want to have a clam. When am i ready to place it? Is placing at topmost LR the way to go to get enough light.

3) Is powderblue surgeon compatible with RSM setup? I heard it needs a hypotonic water to reduce itch tendency, bioload is too hight and algae may be insufficient in a small tank.

4) Is Mandarin dragonet compatible with this setup... How do i get enough copepod for its diet?

5) Is boxer shrimp a suitable tankmate to this strange bunch?

 

Another 2 weeks before setup and wanna to be on the right track. Thanks a bunch.

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wheww. long one! :welcome:

 

1) Clean up the tank, remove with razor blades the algae, fill up with Red Sea Pro salt to correct SG 1.025 to 1/4" below black molding.

 

Yes. Just about 1/4", something to play with but if you are bellow the black molding and raise the intake grate, you should have no problem. You will have to tune it in.

2) Ditch the bioballs, ceramic rings, sponge from the back chamber. Fit in the wavemaker, chiller outlet, return pump. Ideally ditch the stock skimmer, buy Tunze 9002 with magnet fitting. Glue with superglue epoxy, get small rare earth magnet (size, shape?). Get the JBJ ATO, attached with magnet, set it 1/4" below water level. Throw in a cut black sponge or floss (changed every few week) for mechanical filtration. Throw in Chemipure elite, Seagel (remove bag) or Purigen to detoxify. Koralia #2 wavemaker recommended.

 

Yes on the bioball, no live rock rubble either. I don't have a wavemaker unless you are talking about the rotating deflector, but a wavemaker can be installed. The 9002 is the way to go, the stock skimmer is junk. There are a few ways of mounting it, one can be mounted on my media rack with no mods or gluing. You can also buy a magent kit from Tunze. I am using Rare earth magents on the rear of the tank, they are about 1/2" dia. round. ATO can be set where it needs to be to obtain the correct water level. Change floss every 3-5 days, sponge weekly, rinse out. Chemical media after your cycle. Yes on the #2.

3) Put in 30 to 40lbs of live rock ideally without sand. Aquascape. Secure with waterproof epoxy, leave to cure for 12 hours inside the tank. If I dislike barebottom look, put in a bed of live sand to 1 inch. Ensure minimal contact point of live rocks with tank or sand.

 

I do not have my rocks bonded with epoxy putty, but it can be helpful if you need. I tried to do it but it doesn't work as well as it should. Superglue gel and putty may work better together. Try not to let your rocks dry out too much. Put the sand in last if you want, it will hold in your rocks better that way.

4) Ditch the current light tubes (in use for 6mths) Replace the tubes

 

yeah, 6-8 months replacement time.

5) Fire up the tank switching on the pump, wavemaker, chiller as per normal but no need to turn on the skimmer. No need to worry about microbubbles initially. On T5 for 8-10 hours cycle.

BTW if my office operates from 9am to 9pm would ambient warm light adversely affects the tank?

 

You can run the lighting for 6 hours if you like during the cycle, it will limit algae, but 8-10 won't "hurt". Get your algae started with the lighting. I also have mine in the office. The lights go off at 6:50 so in the summer they are getting ambient light, same in the morning. The office lights may be noticed by the fish but the corals won't care. I have my office lights on often late and haven't seen an issue. They notice the strong T5 lighting and not the office or sunlight. Start the T5s close to the startup of the office, then have turn off about 1-2 hours before the close. So you can run 11 hours like me if you like. But 8-10 will control algae if an issue.

 

6) Test the water for ammonia and nitrate the next day. If and when level is zero, fire up the skimmer and tank is ready for livestock. Test weekly for any spike in these parameters with Red Sea starter test kit. Fill ATO with reverse osmosis water or distilled water. Do weekly 3-4 gallon water change with bottled top up or self mix Red Sea Pro.

 

Junk the red sea test kits. Get an API test kit (aprox $16) The red sea kit is junk and inaccurate, by far one of the worst kits on the market. Start testing a few days after you set up. Continue every 3 or so days. When ammonia and nitrite are zero there will be nitrate left over. Do a 20-30% water change. Let sit again, test, if ammonia and nitrite are still at 0, you are done. Fire up the skimmer and start to add a CUC slowly. I like to mix my own salt, use red sea coral pro, 10% change weekly, about 4 gallons.

7) Put some cleaner crews in like 1 hermit crab, 2-3 turbo snail, 1x peppermint shrimp and perhaps one fish (Chromis?) Feed on alternate days.

 

Add the snails and crabs first. Add the fish and shimp later on, a few weeks to be safe. Yes, feed the fish every other day.

8) Once stable, get some hardy soft corals like shrooms, yuma, zoos and stick it with epoxy on the liverocks at the mid or lower level. Wary of frogspawn, leather, anemone.

 

Use superglue gel and aquamend putty, see my how to glue thread for info. A frogspawn is easy to care for, an anemone should be added if wanted later on. Do not get a high light demanding anem, maybe a bubble tip, but you need a mature tank (6 or so months)

 

9) Dose with calcium twice weekly (brand, amount?) if there is more SPS. Anything else to dose?

 

Water changes are your main source of replenishment of trace elements. Dose only if needed, but you will have to be testing to know when and how much calc. you will need. After you get set up you will get an idea of when to dose. A good two part soltion is best, but your weekly water changes will feed your corals. Make sure you calc is around 420-480 at all times. Yes, if you have SPS then you will have to dose as they eat up calk very quickly. Also alkanity is important too, this is why a two part solution such as C-Balance or B-Ionic are important.

 

10) When ready for upgrade get StevieT Media Rack 2.0 and StevieT Tunze 9002 skimmer cup. Put floss on media rack, attached with magnet.

 

Yes! you can also mount the skimmer to the rack with no mods, just let me know you are going to do this. Floss on top, chemical media on the other two shelves.

 

Some livestocks on my wishlist.

 

1) Ultimately, I intend to put in Frogspawn to hopefully host a percula clown, where should i place it?

 

Lower part of the tank, low to mid flow, doesn't need to be blasted with light. My frog likes low flow, but some like a little higher, the coral will let you know if it is happy or not by how big it is open. Your clown may or may not host it, it may take some time, but there is a good chance at it. It took my clown 3 or so months to host my frog.

2) I want to have a clam. When am i ready to place it? Is placing at topmost LR the way to go to get enough light.

 

Yes, place it on the top of your rock, it will attach itself with it's foot, DO NOT GLUE. Wait 5-6 months, they need a very mature tank, but when your tank is ready, they are "easy" to care for. Read more about clams before purchase.

3) Is powderblue surgeon compatible with RSM setup? I heard it needs a hypotonic water to reduce itch tendency, bioload is too hight and algae may be insufficient in a small tank.

 

The only thing I found on a power blue is a tank. If so, no, you can not have tangs in this small tank, make sure you keep a low bioload. Please provide a link for this fish if I am on the wrong track.

 

4) Is Mandarin dragonet compatible with this setup... How do i get enough copepod for its diet?

 

That is a risky one. They need a very mature tank with natural pods. Do some research on it, they need a lot of attention. You can get them to eat frozen foods, but they can be a time consuming fish. I can not recommend it to a beginner, I would read up and if you do want one, wait almost a year before you add, maybe longer.

 

5) Is boxer shrimp a suitable tankmate to this strange bunch?

 

A boxer shimp is more known as the coral banded shirmp. Yes, that would be fine.

http://liveaquaria.com/product/prod_displa...tid=698&N=0

 

Ok, I think I got them all! B)

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WOW!!! That is a awesome RSM.... That could be one of nicest ones's I've ever seen.... Simply amazing.... Props to you....

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WOW!!! That is a awesome RSM.... That could be one of nicest ones's I've ever seen.... Simply amazing.... Props to you....

 

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback B)

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July Photo Update:

 

These Petco Yumas are really taking off, ozzing new growth all the time.

 

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The hidden Blue Ric

 

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Ricordea island:

 

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SPS Growth:

 

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This piece monti cracked when I was mounting it. All new growth:

 

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Growing over the rocks:

 

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Your tank is looking great. It's encouraging to see picture reports like this that show the healthy growth of corals under the RSM stock lighting.

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