StevieT's Red Sea Max Experience

[StevieT]

yes, I am very impressed. All of the materials can be made with the left over sections from the racks. I have so many 8.5" sections. The build should be rather "simple" the only thing is that hole that is labor intensive and putting it all together square. The price should be just right and they can all ship priority flat rate to save the members some $$.

 

The tunze naturally skims a little wet so we will see how a lower lid opperates.

[panzerlehr]

panzerlehr I just might try that bigger magnet though.

 

Hi,

 

Glad you got it figuired out. Not that you go large magnet, but if you do I used 4 ties per loop to make a better square fit around the skimmer (not really shown in picture) and no adhesive was needed.

 

Stevie thats a great idea on that skimmer cup. I get a lower level back there after about 1 day as filter media starts clogging up running thru my makeshift water shaft (requires almost daily cleaning) and I would like to be able to lower the skimmer a bit more then the cup will go. I thk for once I may have enuff bypass created in it to go out of town for a few days without the pumps sucking air at the other end. I was starting to get a little more micro bubbles thru stock return pumps (caused by skimmer as testing confirmed but I wasnt convinced it wasnt from that snap on impeller cover/intake pipe of stock pumps) so I replaced them with 2 of the eheim compacts (300(If I knew how little 300 was I woulda went 600) and 1000, very solid built and quiet) and was able to get them lower in that chamber (actually inside 1liter cut bottle that fit in that chamber and makes water have to basically waterfall into it as it comes up from under it) and that made a huge diffrence. I see the new 250L tank looks to be using opposite flow to get water back into the tank thus maybe getting less bubbles as they will have a harder time getting down to that return pump were as we have them floating up to our pumps. If the stats are correct and the tank is basically only 50% longer but the filter area is 100% larger (thats not saying much) it should mean we would have a little more width to work with back there and make mods easier.

 

Gz..

[StevieT]

cup #2 in the tank, lowered the height so the neck is closer to the lid. Did not drill hole in the cup, we shall see if that hurts, I am trying to save on labor and points that may damage production (drilling holes in acrylic can cause cracking)

 

There should enough ventilation since the lid is not air tight.

[panzerlehr]

cup #2 in the tank, lowered the height so the neck is closer to the lid. Did not drill hole in the cup, we shall see if that hurts, I am trying to save on labor and points that may damage production (drilling holes in acrylic can cause cracking)

 

There should enough ventilation since the lid is not air tight.

 

Hi,

 

Funny you say that, I drilled out a few holes in my makeshift shaft (lol) yesterday and lucky I had a second one (orginal design) to work with because sure enuff it broke it in two. I found this website as I realized the regular drill bit was the problem. Sure enuff it worked.

 

http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/acrdrill.htm

 

Gz...

[Reefmack]

panzerlehr - have you considered an easy pump mod that a lot of us RSM owners on Reef Central have done? You attach some flexible tubing to extend the bottom of the pump inlets 3-4 inches or so - it'll let the water level in back get lower before the pumps start sucking in air & blowing bubbles. I think (can't remember for sure) that it requires 3/4" ID tubing. Plus, you'll need a 12" plastic cable tie around each pump, or the weight of the tubing will pull off that bottom section. Very easy mod and it really helps.

[panzerlehr]

panzerlehr - have you considered an easy pump mod that a lot of us RSM owners on Reef Central have done? You attach some flexible tubing to extend the bottom of the pump inlets 3-4 inches or so - it'll let the water level in back get lower before the pumps start sucking in air & blowing bubbles. I think (can't remember for sure) that it requires 3/4" ID tubing. Plus, you'll need a 12" plastic cable tie around each pump, or the weight of the tubing will pull off that bottom section. Very easy mod and it really helps.

 

Hi,

 

Yes, lol, I tried somethg similar. I added a small section of eheim green tubing (1/2 inch size, fits perfectly inside the tube) that I expanded just a little so it fit snug and didnt cause disco issues. Problem was as water level begins to get lower and close to that snap on cover it will still suck air in, real bummer let me tell U, I guess it could be sealed on but then one would never be able to clean it. My main problem is I got more water entering into the filter area then stock (thats causes filter media to clog up faster and we know what happens then) with 3 pumps going (at least 75gs from chiller/Uv(major flow restrictor) thats off a rio 2100 in sump area, 300 producing maybe 60Gs and the 1000 probably near 200Gs per hour).

 

I just finally gave up and went with a diffrent setup, so far it seems to be working with what I got going...lol...

I would like to add that 600 eheim over the 300 but that would mean even more water being drawn into filter area and have a pretty good flow action in the tank as it is, but definitly thanks for the advise.

 

Gz...

[Reefmack]

FYI - I just got this Tunze mod from a Canadian RSM user (Hodge). Before my next attempt at the Tunze install I'll do this easy mod. It'll make it a lot easier to be able to adjust air flow with my raised hood. I've found that the air screw on my Tunze isn't the easiest thing to turn:

 

"I did a silencer/remote needle valve mod on my Tunze and it made it quieter/easier to tune. I don't have a pic but all i did was drill a 1/4" hole in the top lid, disconnected the hose from the stock valve and ran it up thru the drilled hole, attached my valve/silencer hose (stole from rsm skimmer) and was good to go."

 

panzerlehr - did you have the cable tie around the pump when you tried the hose extensions - if it's put on tightly it helps to seal that bottom plate on the pumps so that air can't get in. The only other alternative I've heard it to seal that crack with silicone, but that would require pulling the pump and letting the silicone cure for a day.

[StevieT]

Hi,

 

Funny you say that, I drilled out a few holes in my makeshift shaft (lol) yesterday and lucky I had a second one (orginal design) to work with because sure enuff it broke it in two. I found this website as I realized the regular drill bit was the problem. Sure enuff it worked.

 

http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/acrdrill.htm

 

Gz...

 

 

Thanks for the link!! That makes total sense because that edge is extened away from the bit causing the cracking with most acrylics. Plastics seem ok, but acrylic cracks like a bastard.

[owned162]

Hey StevieT,

Just wanted to say the tank is still looking incredible! I've been following this thread from the day I joined NR, and in my opinion it's still one of the best looking tanks on NR, and definitely one of the best places to get information about the RSM.

Fantastic job!

 

OwNeD

[StevieT]

Thank you very much Owned, I wish I had more time to keep up on photo updates!! I used to be really good at that. But not much changes with a full tank, just a bit of growth.

 

Glad you enjoyed and am happy it is helping new owners to the tank and or site

[Reefmack]

StevieT - I just realized that I never said how good your tank looks - my bad! That orange monti cap frag in my tank was prompted by the one I saw in your tank. I really liked the bright color.

[StevieT]

thanks. How fast does yours grow? Mine is going so fast

[Reefmack]

StevieT - my orange monti cap is also growing fast - I was really surprised. It's visibly expanded 1/4-1/2" in about 2 weeks. Now I just need to keep my Ca up - since adding 2 montis and 2 big SPS I noticed my Ca has been dropping, and I'm trying to get my dose corrected on the Ca part of the 2-part I've been adding. Those babies really chew up calcium fast!

[StevieT]

Yes, I have to dose with a two part solution once or twice a week because of all the calcium depleation from the SPS.

[Reefmack]

StevieT - which 2-part do you use? I'm using Kent Tech CB, and just adjusted my doses Sunday to 20 ml. Part A (Ca) and dropped my Part B (Alk) to 3.5ml - daily.

[panzerlehr]

Thanks for the link!! That makes total sense because that edge is extened away from the bit causing the cracking with most acrylics. Plastics seem ok, but acrylic cracks like a bastard.

 

Hi,

 

I hope it helps. I didnt have issues drilling small holes when I screwed down the orginal plexi to cut the shaft sections out. But when I tried to drill larger holes into it (to make a bypass for water to flow out when lower media plugs up) this weekend thats when the problem showed itself and basically on the second hole right before bit went thru it just snapped that section in 2 as the bit hungup. I have since read of course there are bits specially made for that, but heck who has that stuff laying around when you need it, sad thg was I bought a special saw blade at the depot but never thought about a drill bit at the time...lol..

 

Let me say too, your tank looks awesome!!!

 

Gz...

[panzerlehr]

panzerlehr - did you have the cable tie around the pump when you tried the hose extensions - if it's put on tightly it helps to seal that bottom plate on the pumps so that air can't get in. The only other alternative I've heard it to seal that crack with silicone, but that would require pulling the pump and letting the silicone cure for a day.

 

 

Hi,

 

No I didnt. One thg I didnt use a tie on yet..lol...Putting tubes inside prob added to increasing backpressure to boot making it worse; outside is much better option no doubt.

 

The regular pumps push lot water, they are quiet, but man they sure look cheap with that snap on cover and bulky for only 9watts. Man thous compact eheims are/or look so well built it aint funny and they are adjustable flow. I prob will back off the 1000 a bit to slow some flow down, but I needed a lot because I have it firing water down low into tank (thru eheim trickle pipe) and elbowed so water flows behind the rock so I know even at full flow (est at 260GPH with no backpressure) prob only at 75% of true flow, maybe even less (I dont thk it takes much lenght to really reduce flow on thous smaller pumps). Ive actually learned its more about watts then anythg they list on flow rate charts. Ive got 2 pumps I tested in my sump, both had diffrent rates flow listed but nearly same watts (like 37 and 38) and both gave me exactly 75GPH(fill a 16oz cup in just a tad less then 6 seconds). Seemed like for every 10 watts I went up or down flow would change by 15GPH (thats with my situation of backpressure), but it sure was interesting how consistant it was, yes I got lot freaking pumps laying around now to make salt, just need more tanks..lol...

 

Question, has anyone used a UPS with say just 1 of the return pumps on it? If so did it keep pump running for say a few hours? Ive seen a APC like 865Watt version (like 200$) out there was wondering if it would buy time.

 

Stevie I got to add this picture on salt creep (from nano tank setup), always amazes me why people dont clean a little before posting a picture like this on somethg they are selling.

 

Gz...

[StevieT]

jezzz, that is crazy. I was actually kidding about the salt creep before, but it shoulds like you may have some with all that moving water. This tank overall has very little salt creep from stock opperation, I rarely get any since the hood is sealed well.

 

On the drill bit: yeah, smaller holes go well, it is when you size it up then you will get cracks. If I need to drill that hole I will look into actual acrylic drill bits (hopefully they make them) instead of grinding one of mine good ones. I have two 80 tooth saw blades (table and miter) they fly right through the acylic with great cuts.

 

UPS: i have been involved with discussion of this before and the general concensous is that even with a small pump, they will not last long enough to do anything major. They only last around 20-40 mins on average, I have one here at work and it is pretty much pointless IMO. We have it on my network, but I don't know what it does, the digital readout says a 20 min run time.... so whats the point of that?! I guess for power surges or short power outages.

 

The best solution I have herd is to get a battery powered airstone. They can last for days especially if you have back up batteries.

[Reefmack]

I've got the battery powered airstone pump also. Good in warm weather emergencies, but keep in mind that in the winter that air pump will be pumping cool air through the airstone, just more quickly cooling down the tank. I had a 24 hour power outage on a 20 degree night & very cold day early this past winter, and the tank got down to 70 degrees - thank goodness I only lost one emerald. Another degree or couple degrees below 70 and it could have been much worse. If I'd have put that airstone in the tank the water would have cooled off even quicker during that 24 hours.

[panzerlehr]

Hi,

 

Ok thks, ive got no room really for another item so that just saved me 200 bucks. Definitly going to invest in a battery air pump. I guess maybe make a makeshift insulated box (small foam beer cooler?) to put it in for winter use, maybe there is a way to use manual activated heat packs to place inside it to warm the air?

 

Actually Stevie as much water flow as I got (not but maybe the chiller amount extra) its very controlled, because its entering tank from 3 diffrent locations. I bought nano pumps like you guys run after I seen your posts, but Ive got so much soft coral no matter were I put first 1 it would effect some part of the tank too much. So I bought a second one, placed it on other side to count the first 1, that helped but again I got a spot that was too much current. I tried moving stuff and finally just gave up. Best part of that setup woulda been great tank flow and stock filter flow because I had chiller line returning back into sump. It was at that time that I tried only running 1 stock return pump with orginal skimmer, dam if thg didnt start doing what it was suppose to do and no micro bubbles. So that told me the flow they had passing under it was to great (dam skimmer pump was pumping to much water too) and didnt give it enuff time to work over the same water. That little tunze just works like magic, I thk because its in slower flow area of the sump (up higher) and the smaller pump (yet probably still draws in air at a ratio similar to that of the orginal pump skimmer).

 

One note on chillers, when I ran chiller flow back into filter sump area it naturally came on/off more offen actually kept water temp in the sump within 1/2 degree (I did use 90 degree elbow on return end to seperate the flows). By running it into tank it stays on a lot longer and stays off a lot longer (temp swing about 1 degree) if that makes sense, I guess becauses its actually changing the entire tank temp as oppose to just small area in the sump which changes temp quicker as main tank water enters into it thus forcing it to react quicker. Why fan blade broke in a internal protected area of that chiller is beyond me, but I guess thats my luck (it happened before I added calcium reactor when there was actually some room in there, lol). I no longer run that extra rsm fan, I guess one benifit of a chiller is you do save on making r/o water, because its not having hardly any evaporation issues.

 

Gz..

[owned162]

UPS: i have been involved with discussion of this before and the general concensous is that even with a small pump, they will not last long enough to do anything major. They only last around 20-40 mins on average, I have one here at work and it is pretty much pointless IMO. We have it on my network, but I don't know what it does, the digital readout says a 20 min run time.... so whats the point of that?! I guess for power surges or short power outages.

 

Hey StevieT,

Just thought I'd put my 2cents down about the UPS (I work in IT), sorry if you already know this... A UPS isn't designed for sustained run-time, most of them, like yours, are only designed to run a short time, 20, 40, 60mins, and usually they are only connected to the server on a network system because the server tends to have all the vital information on it, etc... They are there for exactly as you said above, power surges and short power outages, and are designed not in mind of keeping the server running for general use, but instead keeping the server running long enough to correctly save everything that may be open, and shut down anything on the server that may be running so that you don't get corruption. Most UPS's have software installed on the server that tell's the server when it has switched over to emergency power. This usually triggers a countdown on the server, and just before the UPS is about to run out of power, and if mains power hasn't come back, it will do exactly that, save and close everything and shutdown correctly.

 

The only thing you could use to keep everything going on your tank for a long period of time, would be a backup generator, which is what most shopping centres have installed so that they can continue to get your money even if the power goes out.

 

Sorry for all those who already knew that but i just thought i would throw it in.

Thanks,

OwNeD

[jgilvey]

Wow...very nice tank and cool of you to document it so well. Sorry if I missed it, but did you have to mod to fit the Tunze? Couldn't tell what the magnet mod stuff was for. Also, the lighting is stock?

 

Thanks,

 

Jack

[StevieT]

Wow...very nice tank and cool of you to document it so well. Sorry if I missed it, but did you have to mod to fit the Tunze? Couldn't tell what the magnet mod stuff was for. Also, the lighting is stock?

 

Thanks,

 

Jack

 

 

Thank you Jack.

 

The Tunze does not need to be moded to fit, the only issue is the cup and the hood when you are doing maintenenace, but nothing major. The magnets were for mounting since it came without a way to mount where I needed.

 

The lighting is stock!!!!! I probably will never go MH on this tank, I really like the stock lighting.

[jgilvey]

Ok, thanks Stevie. I'm seriously looking at a RSM and I'll be reading this thread again in detail. One more if I might, what are the actual "viewable" height and depth without trim/sump?

[StevieT]

No trim, no filtration

 

23" Wide

18" High

15" Deep