Koden's 98 Gallon Custom

[Sebea]

Ah, I see.

 

I got everything you have plus the lab grade PH probe for 300 from premiumaquatics. It's on back-order though.

 

In the future, you might want the PH probe because it can be very handy if you want a calcium reactor, or kalk reactor.

[kinetic]

Ah, I see.

 

I got everything you have plus the lab grade PH probe for 300 from premiumaquatics. It's on back-order though.

 

In the future, you might want the PH probe because it can be very handy if you want a calcium reactor, or kalk reactor.

 

I was considering a calcium reactor as well, but I think I will be using a doser instead. I'm going to control two aqualifter pumps with the AC Jr. for dosing. I'll measure the flow rate per minute for the pumps, then turn them on and off during the day based on that to get a consistent dose amount. I'll have to fine tune this by taking tests of calc and alk every night to check. I think it's an inexpensive and easy way to go about it... though I've heard calcium reactors, once setup, are the cheapest... may have to consider both I guess.

[Cesar]

Oh man this is going to be a killer set up man. SoCal does some great looking tanks. I really like the cube look in large tanks. Can't wait to see the whole process take place. Awesome job Koden.

[kinetic]

Thanks for the support cesar =)

 

I've started to entertain myself with the thought of plumbing everything into the basement. Right under one of the rooms in my house, is the laundry room. It's a huge room, with a huge sink etc and it's mostly taken up by a bird (cockateil) cage and some boxes. I think I might just put the sump, and all the pumps down in the room below to reduce noise. Plus it's pretty cool down there so a chiller would definately not be needed! (I'm a bit afraid that the heaters might be on all the time). If this is the case, I'll just be getting a simple stand and drilling four holes into the ground.

 

Hole 1: 1.5" drain

Hole 2: Sump Return

Hole 3: Closed Loop Return.

Hole 4: Closed Loop Intake.

 

I'll mount my Supersquirt on the stand underneath.

 

This gives me one problem: HUGE HEAD LOSS! I'll need to upgrade my pumps by at least twice the power. I'm thinking a 3000gph closed loop pump, and a 1500gph return pump. (basically mutliplying everything by two). Do you think that'd be strong enough? Also if it's down under in the basement (which is really just our first floor of the house, without carpet and accessible as a downstairs from the main floor) I could get a loud but efficient pump! I know sometimes quietness of pumps means less power.

 

Also this way I can get a HUGE sump on top of my fuge. I was originally only going to use a EcoSystem Refugium and somehow stick a skimmer etc. into it. But now I can take my extra glass 30 gallon or buy someone's trashy old acrylic tank and put it with the fuge. Or better yet, a big rubbermaid bucket, increasing my watervolume. I could even setup a small prop tank down there as well.

 

Might be an exciting thing to do. Just have to get a new pump for the closed loop ... no biggie. Any recommendations?

 

THanks for those tagging along!

[kinetic]

Seems like I will be investing in a co2 reactor setup. There's a killer deal out right now that will make it a lot cheaper than setting up dual dosing pumps too!

 

I'm getting a complete co2 setup not including the co2 bottle for about $342, then I will sell the pH controller and probe for about $190 (that's the going price for them new) or maybe $180 to entice a buyer, and then the setup will only be $140 + co2 bottle (I can get one $56 used) + pH Probe. Too bad I didn't get one with my AC Jr.

 

If I got the aquamedic dual dosing pump, that's already $189. That's the same as my co2 setup minus the pH probe. I figure the probe won't be much more expensive, and will be less than the dosing media in the long run.

 

For the media of the co2 reactor I'll get some crushed coral substrate for it at the lfs for about $1/lb.

 

this is exciting!

[kinetic]

OK so I realized it's not a calcium reactor, it's a co2 reactor. It was 2am when I did that post, so I have an excuse for being retarded.

 

I will be purchasing a different calcium reactor setup:

 

$145 Regulater - Dual Gauge, Electric Solenoid, Needle Valve

$120 Reactor - Coralife 250g rated Ca Reactor - Self Priming External and removable pump, integrated bubble counter and co2 check valve

$56 CO2 Tank - 10lbs, used.

$35 pH Probe for AC Jr.

 

This will run me about $355 with free shipping! It should be a good investment in the long run.

 

I will also leaving the sump return as one outlet to a spray bar, giving the CL intake a spray bar and using the other CL intake as another closed loop intake, which will return as a rock rack. The closed loop 2 system will take in water through a spray bar, output it back out attached to a rack to hold the rocks away from the back of the tank. It will have a couple outlets to give substrate more flow. This will help out my DSB as it increases flow to 3060gph total.

[kinetic]

Calcium Reactor

I will be picking up a calcium reactor setup from a local seller for about $325, including 10lb full co2 tank, K2R Calcium Reactor, Dual Gauge Regulator, Needle Valve, Electric Solenoid, bubble counter. It also comes with a Pinpoint pH monitor which I won't need. I'll probably have to sell it.

 

Stand Plans

I'm not sure if I'm going through with the basement idea. I guess I'll just plan the stand based on my plumbing ideas as if things were going under the stand. To plan everything, I will arrange it all and see how much room I need. Then I'll plan the plumbing around that as well. After that's done I'll arrange my lighting for the canopy design, and send it off to omegareef.com.

 

Fish Plans

I have pretty much decided on my fish stock. I will add them in the order following, each time making sure bioload isn't too bad.

 

2x Ocellaris Clowns

1x Blue Chalk Bass

1x Barlett Anthia

1x Pacific Candy Bass (will he eat a neon goby?)

1x Neon Goby and 1x Female Bellus

 

If bioload permits, I'll add a small school of 3x Threadfin Cardinalfish.

[proraptor]

Is this tank done yet? Dang

[kinetic]

I have the tank now, I just have to find time to get the stand dimension and canopy design figured out, have it all built, then do the plumbing... then I'll be set.

 

I'm thinking mid February. I wanna make everything just right. I'm also thinking of buying OM Revolutions for my back two CL returns.

[Haagenize]

nice tank, everthing looks soo smooth

[kinetic]

thanks! everything is very high quality. socalcreations did a great job!

 

I'm now contemplating if I should go with a canopy or just a hanging pendant.

 

please help me decide!!

 

thanks =)

[kinetic]

I am rethinking a lot of things for the tank:

 

1. Maybe getting a bigger pump for closed loop

2. Getting black sched 40 pvc piping

3. No canopy, just modify pendant to hold also two actinics

4. Getting a "sump" to go under refugium to hookup my skimmer to.

 

 

 

 

1. I currently have a 1500gph pump for the closed loop. I'm thinking of getting a bigger one. What do you think? I currently will have 2286gph of total flow, which is about 27x turnover. I want to increase this to maybe 40x turnover, meaning I need 3280gph. My 780gph is a sump return, so my closed loop will have to be 3280-780=2500gph. This pump will be about $200! Is that too much? this will be a SPS dominated tank.

 

2. Black PVC just looks so much better =) I will order from savko.com. Any suggestions otherwise? Comments?

 

3. I am disliking canopy looks. I want an open top because it looks less claustraphobic that way =/ I always thought canopies look funny on cube tanks. I will get a piece of metal, bend it so it will be long enough to hold two 21" PC's, and wide enough for my oceanlight pendant to be mounted in the middle, and the two pc's snugly set on both sides. How do I bend metal? Do I need to heat it up? Also what should I use for a U.V. shield for the PC's?

 

4. Since the skimmer shouldn't be used HOB on my fuge, I think I'll build a shelf for the fuge to sit on, then overflowing into a rubbermade bucket holding my skimmer, a heater, and my return pump (externally mounted still with bulkhead). Sound like a better plan? I'll have a square C tube from the overflow in the return chamber of the refugium to underneath it where I will put the fuge. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks!

[kinetic]

seems like nobody's following anymore. I don't any responses =(

 

well it's up to me I guess.

 

Update

- Coralife Skimmer collection cup broke, I decided to get a replacement cup and sell it. In it's place I have ordered an ASM G3 skimmer, new. Should be here in a couple days.

- Selling both Quiet One 3000 and 6000 pumps. Everything will be plumbed into the basement now, so I've upgraded to a Sequence DART for the closed loop, and a PanWorld 200PS for the return. With headloss into account, the closed loop will have 2200gph of flow, and sump return will be about 800gph with an additional 200gph going through a dsb and into the skimmer. Anyone know how to measure gph?

- Lighting: I'm selling my Oceanlight 250watt HQI pendant. Good thing I never fired the bulb. Now I can sell it new. In it's place, I'm getting the AquaMedic T5/MH combo, with a 250watt hqi reflector and 2x24watt T5 actinic supplements. I'll be putting an Aqualine AB 20K bulb in the halide.

- Going to get a sump, but not sure which yet. All will be plumbed to the basement, so I'm figuring about 30 gallons more for the sump, making the total water volume of the system 140 gallons.

 

wanna see a secret? http://loogi.xkinetic.net

 

I'll make it's debut soon, but those who are still reading get a sneak peek. I'm thinking of setting up web blogs / pages like this for anyone, for LE frags or something =)

 

cheers!

[Sinistard]

Ah plumbing in the basement, you will love how quiet the display will be. If you have any questions once you start the process feel free to ask me, you can learn from my mistakes.

 

Be careful with the dart when you plumb it. It is not a high pressure pump and the size of the plumbing will effect it a lot. Try to use the largest PVC you can. The intake on the dart is 2" and the outlet is 1.5". I have 1.5" flex coming out of my pump going to a T and drops down into 1" PVC and then split to 4 3/4" outlets and I got a ton of head loss. I would guess that my flow is dropped down to around 1500-2000gph, the same or less then what I was getting from my panworld 200ps.

 

Now the panworld as a return pump is another story. That's the same one I am using and I am getting tons of flow even with it pumping 12 feet straight up. You will want a fairly big sump to handle the flow you will get from the panworld.

 

You should also consider humidity in the basement. I did not even think about this in my setup until someone brought it up over in my thread on RC. You can see the discussion over there http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...25&pagenumber=8 (i hope it ok to post links to RC)

 

You can get flow meters to plumb into your set up but I don't know if they are worth the cost. I guess the other way would be to fill a gallon jug from the outlet and time how long it takes to fill and multiply by 60.

 

Oh and I don't know if you have contacted Savko yet but the last time I was there they were out of 1" black flex PVC.

 

Everything is looking great

[kinetic]

Ah plumbing in the basement, you will love how quiet the display will be. If you have any questions once you start the process feel free to ask me, you can learn from my mistakes.

Awesome! Thank you!

 

Be careful with the dart when you plumb it. It is not a high pressure pump and the size of the plumbing will effect it a lot. Try to use the largest PVC you can. The intake on the dart is 2" and the outlet is 1.5". I have 1.5" flex coming out of my pump going to a T and drops down into 1" PVC and then split to 4 3/4" outlets and I got a ton of head loss. I would guess that my flow is dropped down to around 1500-2000gph, the same or less then what I was getting from my panworld 200ps.

Yikes, I need some input on this: The Dart will be 2 feet below the floor, higher up if I can. I just need it to hit at most 2200gph once it gets to my OM Super Squirt. The charts show that 7 feet headloss will be just about 2200gph. Is this going to be true? I will have two 1" CL intakes connected to a 2" T (with reducers), then goes straight into the intake at 2". Then the 1.5" return will go all the way up to my OM SuperSquirt with a reducer right before to 1" at about 2200gph. I'm planning on 7 feet from pump outlet to OM SS inlet. Do you think this pump is too weak? Should I go for a different one? I could mount it as close as 6 feet from the OM SS with a pretty straight pipe with no T's etc. Though the OM will reduce it even more... should I go with a different pump?

 

Now the panworld as a return pump is another story. That's the same one I am using and I am getting tons of flow even with it pumping 12 feet straight up. You will want a fairly big sump to handle the flow you will get from the panworld.

Hmm, I'd like at most 780gph going through the sump, maybe 800gph. At 10 feet would it be ok? I saw on the curve graphs that it would be something like 700gph at 10 feet headloss. It will also have a T.

 

You should also consider humidity in the basement. I did not even think about this in my setup until someone brought it up over in my thread on RC. You can see the discussion over there http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...25&pagenumber=8 (i hope it ok to post links to RC)

 

You can get flow meters to plumb into your set up but I don't know if they are worth the cost. I guess the other way would be to fill a gallon jug from the outlet and time how long it takes to fill and multiply by 60.

 

Oh and I don't know if you have contacted Savko yet but the last time I was there they were out of 1" black flex PVC.

 

Everything is looking great

 

Thanks for the help! I'll checkout the humidity problem, and I'll just do the jug test with a timer.

 

I think I'm going with all hard black PVC, no flex. Is flex better? I'm sure it's easier to use.

 

 

THANKS AGAIN!!

[Sinistard]

No problem.

 

Yikes, I need some input on this: The Dart will be 2 feet below the floor, higher up if I can. I just need it to hit at most 2200gph once it gets to my OM Super Squirt. The charts show that 7 feet headloss will be just about 2200gph. Is this going to be true? I will have two 1" CL intakes connected to a 2" T (with reducers), then goes straight into the intake at 2". Then the 1.5" return will go all the way up to my OM SuperSquirt with a reducer right before to 1" at about 2200gph. I'm planning on 7 feet from pump outlet to OM SS inlet. Do you think this pump is too weak? Should I go for a different one? I could mount it as close as 6 feet from the OM SS with a pretty straight pipe with no T's etc. Though the OM will reduce it even more... should I go with a different pump?

 

One guy on RC said that with a closed loop there is no "static" head pressure on a closed loop and had this advice on my setup.

 

rdmpe

"You don't have to worry too much about head pressure on the CL pump. There really isn't any "static" head pressure since the input and output water surfaces are the same (display tank water surface). The only head loss is due to the plumbing. So in general the biggest improvements you could make are bigger diameter pipes and less sharp turns... (not that these are a problem in your particular setup)."

 

I think the biggest slow down I am getting is from the 1" PVC and the 3/4" outlets. I think I am going to have enough flow but will have to monitor it as I get my tank set up. If I have to get a different pump I will more then likely go with a pressure rated pump like the Pan World 200ps.

 

Since you are using a OM SuperSquirt I think the dart will probably be fine. I don't know how well the SuperSquirt works with high pressure pumps. You will only have 2 active outlets at a time so you will have lots of flow per outlet.

 

When you plumb the dart make sure you have a bit of 2" pipe before the inlet, I talked to the manufacture and they said it would need to be done this way to keep it working correctly. Also make sure you use the least amount of elbows as you can.

 

Hmm, I'd like at most 780gph going through the sump, maybe 800gph. At 10 feet would it be ok? I saw on the curve graphs that it would be something like 700gph at 10 feet headloss. It will also have a T.

Thanks for the help!

 

If you look on the RC at there head loss calculator http://reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php the panworld 200ps is the same pump as the blueline HD 70. If you put in 10 feet you will be around 1500gph.

 

I think I'm going with all hard black PVC, no flex. Is flex better? I'm sure it's easier to use.

 

If you are going into the floor hard PVC would be fine but flex is much easier to work with in my opinion. You have to use so many less fittings to get the pipe where you want it. You do still need to use some hard fittings and pipe in places. If you go into the wall I would say you need to use flex. Also its a different PVC glue for the flex stuff so if you use any of it make sure you get the right stuff. Just ask the guys at savko what you need.

[kinetic]

If I have to get a different pump I will more then likely go with a pressure rated pump like the Pan World 200ps.

 

The dart is said to have 2800gph or so at 4 feet, but the panworld only 1700gph. Do you think if you put the panworld and the dart on the same plumbing and location etc, the panworld would give out better flow? That's quite amazing. PanWorlds do use twice as much wattage, so I'm guessing that might be a big reason for it.

 

Since you are using a OM SuperSquirt I think the dart will probably be fine. I don't know how well the SuperSquirt works with high pressure pumps. You will only have 2 active outlets at a time so you will have lots of flow per outlet.

 

The SuperSquirt is said to handle "at least 2200gph" and most likely more than that. Though I'm going to be using 3/4" locline at the nozzles so they can only take 1100gph, thus I'm thinking since I have a version 2 drum which opens two nozzles at a time, it will disperse to a little less than 1100gph due to headloss and since the flow is split into two at a tme. I think placing it 7 feet from the OM SS will give it 2000gph or so flow, and then from the SS to the furthest outlet will be 2 more feet.

 

Do you think my dual 1" to a 2" T, which goes all the way to the intake of the DART will have pretty little head loss? I should've gotten two 2" bulkheads drilled into the tank instead, but I had originally planned for a 1" intake pump. Math wise, two 1" to a 2" T makes some sense... though I'm sure there's more to it. Also my outlet pipe will be 1.5" all the way until it gets to the OM SS which it is then reduced at the last possible moment to connect to the 1" supersquirt inlet.

 

When you plumb the dart make sure you have a bit of 2" pipe before the inlet, I talked to the manufacture and they said it would need to be done this way to keep it working correctly. Also make sure you use the least amount of elbows as you can.

If you look on the RC at there head loss calculator http://reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php the panworld 200ps is the same pump as the blueline HD 70. If you put in 10 feet you will be around 1500gph.

 

I'll checkout the calculator. I still need to read through your whole RC thread =) It's really cool and informative.

 

If you are going into the floor hard PVC would be fine but flex is much easier to work with in my opinion. You have to use so many less fittings to get the pipe where you want it. You do still need to use some hard fittings and pipe in places. If you go into the wall I would say you need to use flex. Also its a different PVC glue for the flex stuff so if you use any of it make sure you get the right stuff. Just ask the guys at savko what you need.

 

Thanks for the pointers! I may get a few flex pieces since I'm planning on using a bunch of 45 degree elbows to correctly adjust where everything is going, but one flex tube would decrease the "angles" and probably be easier in the long run. Are they as safe to use as hard PVC? The ones in your thread look like they have "crush" zones for flexing, does that add flow restriction? I'm a car guy who used to mess with intake / exhaust systems, trying to decrease any back pressure due to crumples and blemishes in piping... so I think I have a good instinct on how to tackle this.

[Sinistard]

The dart is said to have 2800gph or so at 4 feet, but the panworld only 1700gph. Do you think if you put the panworld and the dart on the same plumbing and location etc, the panworld would give out better flow? That's quite amazing. PanWorlds do use twice as much wattage, so I'm guessing that might be a big reason for it.

 

I think that in my case the dart and the panworld ended up being around the same flow due to my size of plumbing. The panworld being pressure rated can push the water though the smaller pipes much better then the dart. The dart is much more efficient then the panworld so as far as cost wise the dart will be the better option for me.

 

Do you think my dual 1" to a 2" T, which goes all the way to the intake of the DART will have pretty little head loss? I should've gotten two 2" bulkheads drilled into the tank instead, but I had originally planned for a 1" intake pump. Math wise, two 1" to a 2" T makes some sense... though I'm sure there's more to it. Also my outlet pipe will be 1.5" all the way until it gets to the OM SS which it is then reduced at the last possible moment to connect to the 1" supersquirt inlet.

I'll checkout the calculator.

 

As far as 2 1" being equal to a 2" thats kind of what I originaly thought but since its a hole it would be more like 4 1" lines would equal a 2" line. If you took a 2" square hole it would take 4 1" squares to fill it, for a round hole its the same idea. A one inch hole can drain 600 gph and a two inch hole can drain 2400 gph.

 

With that said I still think you will be fine with the dual 1" to a 2" T, that the same thing I did. Just make sure the T is not located right next to the pump, you need a bit of 2" PVC before the pump. Look at my set up for an example, the white PVC in the basement is the 2". There is a lot of suction in my 2 intakes so I will have to be carefull with what I put around the hole.

 

You should be fine with the 1.5" going to the super squirt.

 

You might talk to the guys over at OM, it looks like they use darts in there setups and they might have an idea on how mush flow you will be getting.

 

I may get a few flex pieces since I'm planning on using a bunch of 45 degree elbows to correctly adjust where everything is going, but one flex tube would decrease the "angles" and probably be easier in the long run. Are they as safe to use as hard PVC? The ones in your thread look like they have "crush" zones for flexing, does that add flow restriction? I'm a car guy who used to mess with intake / exhaust systems, trying to decrease any back pressure due to crumples and blemishes in piping... so I think I have a good instinct on how to tackle this.

 

Flex is fine for our setups, they can not handle as mush pressure as a hard pipe but we are talking 1000s of psi for air not the small amounts we will have with our water.

 

You can only bend the flex stuff so much so there will not be any crumples on the inside of the pipe. The inside of the pipe is not quite as smooth as hard PCV so you might get a bit more friction but I don't think it would be much.

 

I hope this helps

[kinetic]

thanks sinistard!

 

I talked to the OM people, and it looks like my setup will be ok. They also reconfirmed that there will be no headloss, but only loss from piping.

 

I'm pretty sure I don't want the full 3800gph hitting my super squirt, so I believe with the bottlenecks I have now, it will even out. I'll have to do some experimenting to see. If it is too weak, I will drill the intakes to 2" and Y them together. If it's still too weak, I will get a different pump.

 

If it's too strong, I'll have to think of something else...

[big0boi721]

Koden we need pics!

[kinetic]

haha ok very soon =)

[kinetic]

Here's my stand plans:

 

 

Looking for someone to make it for me =( I have no tools.

 

Anyone know a good tank stand maker in the SF Bay Area other than omegareef.com (greg) since he's totally dissapeared?

[Mr.Furious]

You cant have anyone else cut the wood for you? I mean even with no tools you have to have a hammer and/or screwdriver around at least.

[kinetic]

You cant have anyone else cut the wood for you? I mean even with no tools you have to have a hammer and/or screwdriver around at least.

 

That's exactly it, I have nothing to cut the wood. i have other tools sure, but I can't cut the wood.

 

Would I be saving money to just have precut wood?

 

who would do it for me?

[Mr.Furious]

You will probably save alot of money building the stand yourself. I dont know what the relationship is between you and your neighbors but I would just see if any of them will let you borrow their saw for a day. Or you could even rent one from a tool rental place but im not sure if they rent out saws... usually its bigger tools. You could go old school on it and just buy a cheap handsaw which will still get the job done, just with alot more sweat.