bosco’s Reef Casa Vila 24 build

[TheKleinReef]

I got some cool orange mushrooms and some zoas i can give ya if you're interested!

hope all the issues get sorted!

[boscoT]

On 2/21/2024 at 1:00 PM, TheKleinReef said:

I got some cool orange mushrooms and some zoas i can give ya if you're interested!

hope all the issues get sorted!

that is incredibly kind, are you in Canada by chance?  I am not sure that I would be able to get them mailed across the border?

[boscoT]

Saturday update,

 

Water test today after having the chemiblue out for a week.  The water is looking good, but the Dinos keep coming back.  I did a water change and feel that maybe I should have left if for a few weeks.  I will skip a water change this week.  

 

I am noticing that some of the algae that I was seeing starting to form has gone away.  I also used a toothbrush on some of the rock to clean it up but it has not come back.  The dyno or rusted powder film on the substrate has slowed down, but still present.  I continue to lightly stir the bed at night and replace my filter media to allow for it to get caught in my sponges. 

 

Todays tests

 

NH3 0

PHO4 0

NO3 10.3ppm

ALK 9.5 dkh

 

Would you let it go another week or start dosing small amounts of phosphate elements?  I have some phosphates from brightwell aquatics but we have not yet used it.  

 

 

[TheKleinReef]

1 hour ago, boscoT said:

that is incredibly kind, are you in Canada by chance?  I am not sure that I would be able to get them mailed across the border?

 

oh, rip. i am not in canada 😞

[mcarroll]

10 hours ago, boscoT said:

PHO4 0

NO3 10.3ppm

 

10 hours ago, boscoT said:

Would you let it go another week or start dosing small amounts of phosphate elements?  I have some phosphates from brightwell aquatics but we have not yet used it.  

I would dose phosphates up to 0.05 ppm (asap) and see how it goes.  If no improvement, go up to 0.10 ppm.  Keep an eye on NO3 since demand for it (N) may go up when you supply that extra PO4.  Neither NO3 not PO4 should be at 0.0.

[boscoT]

18 hours ago, mcarroll said:

 

I would dose phosphates up to 0.05 ppm (asap) and see how it goes.  If no improvement, go up to 0.10 ppm.  Keep an eye on NO3 since demand for it (N) may go up when you supply that extra PO4.  Neither NO3 not PO4 should be at 0.0.

I dosed brightwell NeroPhos tonight for the first time.  I am 90% sure that I have Dino's.  I have lost a few cerith snails and the look on the substrate and rocks looks exactly like Dino's.  

 

I did the equation on the back of the bottle and doused 2.5ml.  I will test phosphates and nitrates in the morning then dose again.  

 

I am going to do a 3 day lights out as well and I shut my protein skimmer off tonight.  

 

Any other suggestions to help deal with this?

[boscoT]

Ok, so last night I added 2.5ml of NeoPhos to the tank before bed.  I have shut off my skimmer for 12 hours now and I have not turned the lights on for their regular cycle today.  

 

I just did a check of the Nitrate and Phosphate

 

NO3 

Feb 24 - 10.3 

Feb 26 - 9.4

 

PO4

Feb 24 - 0

Feb 26 - 14ppb (0.043ppm)

 

I was reading that when you dose phosphates to keep a close eye on NO3 rising.  Mine however, has dropped a bit.  I hope this is natures way of righting the balance but I would appreciate some input.  

 

Should I dose another shot maybe half or let this balance out for another day and see where I am at.  

 

I will be doing blackout for 3 days as I have no coral yet to worry about, and I plan on using frozen brine straight for the next few days to keep phosphates up.  

 

I have removed the chemiblue and will not add it back unless the water starts to yellow.  I may just get some BRS charcoal and make some small pouches of charcoal if/when required.  

 

Should I leave the skimmer off?

[mcarroll]

On 2/25/2024 at 8:14 PM, boscoT said:

I dosed brightwell NeroPhos tonight for the first time.  I am 90% sure that I have Dino's.  I have lost a few cerith snails and the look on the substrate and rocks looks exactly like Dino's.  

 

I did the equation on the back of the bottle and doused 2.5ml.  I will test phosphates and nitrates in the morning then dose again.  

 

I am going to do a 3 day lights out as well and I shut my protein skimmer off tonight.  

 

Any other suggestions to help deal with this?

Next, I would confirm that you actually have dino's....and if possible get an ID of what genera/species.   Read the first page of this thread I started for helping folks with dino's.  (You don't have to read the whole thread, tho it might be interesting.)

 

A photograph via microscope (even toy scope) will help with this.

 

At minimum, get a sample of the algae and some water in a vial and shake it to bits, literally.  Then leave the vial under a light (tank lights are good) and see what happens.  Dino's will reconvert into a mass....other algae will just remain still.  Doesn't get your a species ID, but will help rule out non-Dino algae at least.

 

15 hours ago, boscoT said:

Ok, so last night I added 2.5ml of NeoPhos to the tank before bed.  I have shut off my skimmer for 12 hours now and I have not turned the lights on for their regular cycle today.  

Skimming ought to be OK.  

 

Unless your lights are one "too white" or too long, I'd leave them alone.  Something around 14000K-20000K for around 11-12 hours a day....not too bright.

 

15 hours ago, boscoT said:

I just did a check of the Nitrate and Phosphate

 

NO3 

Feb 24 - 10.3 

Feb 26 - 9.4

 

PO4

Feb 24 - 0

Feb 26 - 14ppb (0.043ppm)

 

I was reading that when you dose phosphates to keep a close eye on NO3 rising.  Mine however, has dropped a bit.  I hope this is natures way of righting the balance but I would appreciate some input.  

As an essential nutrients, it's common when one is missing that other nutrients can build up....like your NO3 probably has been.

 

Once the missing nutrient becomes available, there tends to be a rush of demand for the other nutrients.

 

NO3 should not hit zero, but it may not be that big a deal if it does...there are many other forms of nitrogen available to corals.  That's mostly not the case for phosphates tho....if there's not enough PO4 in the water, then they are probably "going without".

 

15 hours ago, boscoT said:

Should I dose another shot maybe half or let this balance out for another day and see where I am at.  

If you confirm dino's with the test above (or photo ID) then I would target 0.10 ppm PO4 and keep it there via daily doses if necessary.  Do that until the dino's are gone.

 

15 hours ago, boscoT said:

I will be doing blackout for 3 days as I have no coral yet to worry about, and I plan on using frozen brine straight for the next few days to keep phosphates up.  

Food cannot raise one parameter as you need....it raises all of them.

 

That said, your fish should remain well fed through this.

 

If you don't have corals, then it might be better not to run the lights again until they are added.  Either don't run them at all, or de-tune them so they are at minimum possible brightness.  Resume normal programming once you add corals. 

 

15 hours ago, boscoT said:

I have removed the chemiblue and will not add it back unless the water starts to yellow.  I may just get some BRS charcoal and make some small pouches of charcoal if/when required.  

 

Should I leave the skimmer off?

 

[boscoT]

happy to report that the tank is clearing up.  The brown/orange stains in the substrate is improving, but still present.  I definitely had some green algae forming in the rear chamber and on my rocks.  I used a tooth brush after a 3 day lights out to scrub the rocks and today I added a blue tuxedo urchin along with a few more trochus, cerith, nassarus and a Mexican turbo.  

 

I picked up some bright well microbacter 7 and will add to my water maintenance with 2-3 times a week doses.  

 

I also picked up some aqua forest carbon pellets today and will add a very small amount weekly just to keep the water crystal clear.  I will be avoiding the chemiblue until I have a better grip on my phosphates.  

 

Huge week getting into this tank and trying to balance my water chemistry.  I also lowered the flow on my IM aqua shield UV sterilizer for water sterilization.  

 

Hopefully the added crew, and slight changes as well as neophos and Microbacter 7 will be enough to get this tank running smooth again.  

[boscoT]

Stable.... ish 

 

 

Things are finally starting to work themselves out.  The neoPhos was a great addition and the microbacter7 that I add to each water change is definitely helping.

 

I have added a blue tuxedo urchin and my hair algae is almost completely gone.  Some residual Dino's in the sand that will sort itself out sooner than later.  

 

I removed the chemiblue with GFO and I have a more stable nutrient level with my phosphates and nitrates.  I am macrodosing AFR over night at 3.75ml over 8 hours.  

 

I ended up getting a slightly larger fresh water reservoir.  I had a 12qt cambro container and had just enough room for an 18qt 4.5gal. container.  This will last me around 7-8 days now and I will avoid the risk of running out of water throughout the week like I have on a few occasions.  

 

Current live stock not including CUC 

 

2 storm clowns

1 helfrichi fireface goby

1 pink streak wrasse

1 royal gramma 

1 cleaner shrimp

 

Now that my nutrient levels are in a better place and the algae is well under control, I will start researching and coming up with a plan for my corals to add to the tank.  My life rock is about 30% covered in coraline algae growth now and we have multiple species of copepods introduced into the tank over the past several months.  

 

 

[mcarroll]

2 hours ago, boscoT said:

I ended up getting a slightly larger fresh water reservoir.  I had a 12qt cambro container and had just enough room for an 18qt 4.5gal. container.  This will last me around 7-8 days now and I will avoid the risk of running out of water throughout the week like I have on a few occasions.  

Would your tank still be able to contain a complete dump of the reservoir in the event that the system gets "stuck ON"?  IMO that size (whatever "excess" your system can hold) should be the max. size of reservoir for best safety.

[KC2020]

8 hours ago, boscoT said:

Stable.... ish 
 

Things are finally starting to work themselves out.  The neoPhos was a great addition and the microbacter7 that I add to each water change is definitely helping.

 

You're just past 6 months too. A pretty common milestone for a reef tank to become established.

You've done a great job dealing with the issues and it looks like you're going to have a wonderful biome foundation for corals.

Great selection of fish !

 

6 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Would your tank still be able to contain a complete dump of the reservoir in the event that the system gets "stuck ON"?  IMO that size (whatever "excess" your system can hold) should be the max. size of reservoir for best safety.

Definitely a concern with the Tunze ATO. Ask me how I know 🤔

If you're going with a larger tank then you could move that ATO over to it and get a Nano sized ATO that uses an optical sensor and has a siphon break for this tank. I just put one on a 20 gal Nano and it works very well.

[boscoT]

@mcarroll @KC2020

 

i have my Tunze ATO set to nano mode and it only runs during the day with it plugged into a wifi power bar.  This avoids any issues when I am sleeping at least.   
 

Interesting as I never thought about that water dump.  How does it overflow with the auto float stop switch built in?   I can see the optical sensor jamming up or defective but the float switch is super sensitive on my unit.  
 

when a snail goes near my intake the ATO will kick on and the overflow float goes off almost immediately.  
 

I do want to get a syphon break.  @KC2020 what ATO did you end up getting instead of the Tunze?

[KC2020]

The float switch was the problem on my Tunze Osmolator 3155. It would easily get encrusted with salt and then stick.  Tunze discontinued that model recently. Maybe you have the Tunze Osmolator 3 - 3154 which has an optical sensor. 

 

I bought the XP Aqua Duetto 2. It's linked in the text of my previous reply https://xpaqua.com/DuettoATO.html

 It's the other ATO that Reef Casa offers. I expect one of the shops near has them.

You place the siphon break in the line inside your reservoir because it drips a bit when water is being pumped. It works great.

[boscoT]

58 minutes ago, KC2020 said:

The float switch was the problem on my Tunze Osmolator 3155. It would easily get encrusted with salt and then stick.  Tunze discontinued that model recently. Maybe you have the Tunze Osmolator 3 - 3154 which has an optical sensor. 

 

I bought the XP Aqua Duetto 2. It's linked in the text of my previous reply https://xpaqua.com/DuettoATO.html

 It's the other ATO that Reef Casa offers. I expect one of the shops near has them.

You place the siphon break in the line inside your reservoir because it drips a bit when water is being pumped. It works great.

i had looked at the xp model at Fragbox as well.  The 3155 is the ATO that I have.  Lots of things to think about so thank you all. I do like the ability to turn my ATO off remotely.  I may just leave it off and fire it on through my power bar app manually a few times a day.  That would help when I’m not home to keep an eye and ear on things 

[mcarroll]

18 hours ago, boscoT said:

How does it overflow with the auto float stop switch built in?

IMO that's the wrong question.

 

The questions is:  Can I prevent a dump flood for any reason just by using a reservoir that's just the right size?

 

The answer is yes you can. 😉 

 

You may have other concerns you need to prioritize along with flood prevention, of course. 👍

[boscoT]

My PO4 bottomed out again.  I noticed the sudden influx in some green algae forming last night and more pronounced today.  I have done many things to fix this issue (posted above).  

 

My NO3 is stable and holding around 10ppm

 

I added some more copepods the other days with a large volume of water that was green from photo.  I have never added photo but I have been dosing microbacter7 at water changes lately.  The water went cloudy for a full day and now 2 days later, I have algae bloom.  I was able to brush most of it off the rock and my filter floss is polishing like crazy.  

 

I just doed 2.5ml of Neophos like I did last month.  I had an immediate increase in PO4 after that dose, so I hope to have water chemistry balanced again soon.  

 

Question - Could the copepod water with phyto be the cause in the PO4 dropping out?

[mcarroll]

If levels were fairly low to begin with then yes it's possible that the addition of more photosynths (combined with an oversupply of nitrogen sources) caused it to bottom out.

[boscoT]

4 hours ago, mcarroll said:

If levels were fairly low to begin with then yes it's possible that the addition of more photosynths (combined with an oversupply of nitrogen sources) caused it to bottom out.

 

I tested PO4 today and I am sitting at 20ppb or .061ppm.  Rocks showing more purple and algae has not come back to areas that I brushed off yesterday.  I think that I remember you telling me to get my PO4 up to around 1ppm, so I may dose a bit more tomorrow and see where we end up

[mcarroll]

That's right – 0.10 ppm is fine.  The idea of having it a little higher is as a slight reserve in case of spikes in usage like you saw....you have a little more time to react, and the spike in usage might not take it quite as low as it might have otherwise.

 

0.061 ppm isn't too bad either tho – under 0.03 ppm or so is usually the danger zone.

 

Even if it bottomed out (was it literally 0.00 ppm?) it's not too low at present.  👍

[boscoT]

14 hours ago, mcarroll said:

That's right – 0.10 ppm is fine.  The idea of having it a little higher is as a slight reserve in case of spikes in usage like you saw....you have a little more time to react, and the spike in usage might not take it quite as low as it might have otherwise.

 

0.061 ppm isn't too bad either tho – under 0.03 ppm or so is usually the danger zone.

 

Even if it bottomed out (was it literally 0.00 ppm?) it's not too low at present.  👍

yes it read 0.00 twice as I thought the first test may have been off.  I like the idea of keeping a small buffer just in the event of a bottom out like you mention.  

 

Now if I could figure out how to keep my snails off of my blue tuxedo urchin we may be onto better days again

 

Thanks for the quick replies

[mizukage]

hey @boscoT it's been fun reading your journal. Kinda new to this hobby and shopping for my first tank. Almost bought a big tank but chickened ou...think it's better (financially) to start small. I found your journal through google after researching reef casa tanks. I'm in Toronto so FRAG BOX which sells them isn't too far. Would you recommend the reef casa? I'm also curious...with the clown you got that died and the bumble bee snails that ate your other tank inhabitants...was this from frag box? i am surprised the LFS didn't advise you on them before putting them in your tank.

[boscoT]

On 4/23/2024 at 4:56 PM, mizukage said:

hey @boscoT it's been fun reading your journal. Kinda new to this hobby and shopping for my first tank. Almost bought a big tank but chickened ou...think it's better (financially) to start small. I found your journal through google after researching reef casa tanks. I'm in Toronto so FRAG BOX which sells them isn't too far. Would you recommend the reef casa? I'm also curious...with the clown you got that died and the bumble bee snails that ate your other tank inhabitants...was this from frag box? i am surprised the LFS didn't advise you on them before putting them in your tank.

Happy to hear that it helped you!!

 

reef Casa has been an excellent tank.  I am very pleased with it and I have zero regrets. The smaller tank size worked out perfect for me. I have considered a larger tank as well a few times over the past year. I almost purchased an IM AIO and a Waterbox AIO in the 50-60 gallon range.  
 

truth be told, I have top products in this smaller tank and it is providing me the enjoyment without all of the work and maintenance demands of a larger tank. 
 

I am doing 20% water changes every two weeks now and I add fresh top off water for the ATO once a week to 10 days.  Chemicals are cheap for the smaller size.  
 

I read somewhere that the average tank setup is around 2 years.  So my opinion for you is to start out with a smaller tank and see how it goes.  Less cost and commitment.  If you take to the hobby you can always upgrade down the road.  
 

I got the clowns from a different shop than Fragbox.  Trial and error has been the key.  My storm clowns have been incredible and peaceful.  I currently have 5 fish with a cleaner shrimp and a bunch of snails.  My coraline algae has exploded finally amd the tank is well seeded with copepods.  My algae and Dino issue is resolved and I am getting ready to start adding corals in the next little bit.  I could have added them sooner but I’m in no hurry.  
 

I have had massive tanks before and I must say that I am really pleased with this tank size.  I think reef Casa has a new shallow 25 tank that looks really cool.  My Villa 24 fits the dimensions of an ikea cabinet and I think that the size is perfect for me.  
 

Pricate message me if you want and I’ll give you my cell if you ever have any questions.  Good luck!!