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Couple out there suggestions:

 

Have you tried running carbon?

Have you tested for stray voltage? Could be voltage leak from something killing the corals.

Have you tried sending out a water sample for an ICP water test? This may identify contaminants in your water. 

 

 

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Kindanewtothis
10 minutes ago, DevilDuck said:

Have you tried running carbon?

I have but was adviced not to so I don't know what to do about it.

 

11 minutes ago, DevilDuck said:

Have you tested for stray voltage? Could be voltage leak from something killing the corals

I got a multimeter? What do I do next?

 

13 minutes ago, DevilDuck said:

Have you tried sending out a water sample for an ICP water test? This may identify contaminants in your water. 

Did not know about it, any suggestions about who does these test? The contaminants would come from where? The distilled water ?

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34 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I have but was adviced not to so I don't know what to do about it.

 

I got a multimeter? What do I do next?

 

Did not know about it, any suggestions about who does these test? The contaminants would come from where? The distilled water ?

1. Run Carbon, perhaps the advice was not to run it long term. I'd run it until this issue is resolved.

 

2. I think @M. Tournesol Got you covered there.

 

3. I use this: ATI ICP-OES Water Analysis (aquariumdepot.ca) It comes with 3 tubes and postage. Fill 1 tube with your RODI water, the other 2 with your tank water. Put them in the envelope and stick the pre-paid postage stamp and put it in the mail. Register on their website and in about 2 weeks you will get your results. Since this is costly, rule out the first two first.

 

Here's how the results look: Analysis result (atiaquaristik.com)

There are also tips on what to correct. The section that most interest you maybe the "pollutants" section. 

Pollutants may come from the water supply, additives, equipment, or aerosols in your home.

 

I also lost all my frogspawn, and two hammer coral, one which was in my tank since I started. This was just in the last 2 months. No idea why. Oddly, a couple of frags of acropora which I recently added are doing really well. I am going to take a break from any new LPS for a while.

 

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Kindanewtothis

Except for one that I expect to lose (the one in the back of the picture, it's now 1/3 its original size), the rest of the hammers seem not so bad.

 

 

No3 12.6

Po4 0.21

dKh 7.7

20220304_145153.jpg

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Kindanewtothis

Euphyllias seem to be stabilizing, I think the water change helped.

 

Fishs are going well, the yellow tang is now yellow, it was really pale when I got it. 

 

The anemone doesn't seems to have been affected like the corals and it is going very well I think.

20220305_100445.jpg

20220305_100155.jpg

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Kindanewtothis
51 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4569529316485429/

 

I'm tempted by this, but there is no equipment with it. Also I don't like the fact that it is 24" deep.

Not sure my 2 AI prime 16hd would be enough even with one more. Would need to add a hydra 32hd. There is no pump for the sump. My skimmer would not do. My nero 3 is too small. Would need more rocks, sand. Oh yeah and a Ro/Di (I will get one anyway)

 

So even if the tank, sump and stand are cheap... that's just a little part of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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M. Tournesol
16 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Did not think it was a tricked question. I'm just wondering if a Ro/Di with more stages and twice the price is worth it.

I think it depends on the quality of your tap water 🤷‍♂️

If your tap water quality is very bad, a Ro/Di with more stages is necessary.

If your tap water quality is ok, a Ro/Di with more stages is not worth it.

 

Remark, you can always add additional stages later to a Ro/Di system.

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aquafx_seahorse_100gpd_rodi_2_1.png

There are a number of considerations.  Does your water company use chloramine or chlorine?  If cloramine, those little carbon filters won't remove it.  In fact, it might take two 10" carbon filters to process chloramine treated water.

 

These small filters will exhaust sooner, and in the long run, usually have a higher cost per gallon than standard 10" filters.  I don't see the specification on the carbon filter, or rejection rate of the RO membrane.

 

Normally we recommend at least a 1 micron sediment filter, one (or two) 1 micron carbon filter(s), and a 98% rejection rate RO membrane.

 

Personally, I'd get a standard 10" canister RO/DI unit.

 

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Kindanewtothis
2 hours ago, seabass said:

Does your water company use chloramine or chlorine? 

Here is control by the city. Water comes from a fresh water lake where boats are not allowed. The city adds chlorine and the water treatment facility. I know it's high quality tap water but nothing more than that.

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Kindanewtothis
22 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Started dosing NoPoX, 6ml daily for now.

No3 is now 19.9

Po4 0.17 (down from 0.25)

 

 

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Kindanewtothis
On 3/13/2022 at 1:38 PM, Kindanewtothis said:

No3 is now 19.9

Po4 0.17 (down from 0.25)

 

 

No3 is now 23.7 ???

Po4 is down to 0.12

 

Been dosing NoPoX for a week now. The macroalgaes in the fuge might be starting to help also with phosphate but why aren't the nitrates going down?

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Kindanewtothis
1 hour ago, debbeach13 said:

I watched the video and wanted to say I like all the tunnels and cave in your scape

Thanks, I did a rescaping when I took the flame angel out 🤷‍♂️

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I just got to 0 ppm nitrates from being at 25 ppm for months by dosing vodka. It took about 2 months before the nitrates started falling. 

 

Grape calupura is working out great in my refugium. Here’s the amount I remove every month. 

 

IMG_1599.thumb.jpg.b3e4353f0941792cb111ab1fd8261f36.jpg

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Kindanewtothis
31 minutes ago, DevilDuck said:

I just got to 0 ppm nitrates from being at 25 ppm for months by dosing vodka. It took about 2 months before the nitrates started falling. 

However, I don't want to reach 0, 5 would be nice.

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  • Kindanewtothis changed the title to Kinda's Large Tank Adventure (LTA)

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