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Redreidy

RedReidys 16Gal Tank

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Redreidy

Hi All, 

 

I figured I will keep updating this thread as I have nobody to talk to about this stuff and my wife is getting bored of me talking about ammonia and algae. 

 

So as of last night 01/08/2019 this is my tank. 

 

tank.thumb.jpg.a4c2e03fce7f51faea45433cb90ac24f.jpg

 

 

As you can see I have added in a small wave maker, I went for the Hydor Koralia Nano 900 (we do litres where I'm from!), an Ammonia alert and I have also bought a refractometer.

 

My water parameters as of last night were:

PH - 8.2 

Ammonia – God Knows

Nitrite – 0

Nitrate – 20ppm

Specific Gravity – 1.020

 

I am quite happy to bring the Nitrates down through water changes and I need to increase the specific gravity a little, which I think is just down to me being slightly over zealous with top off. The ammonia issue however is causing me an issue. Below is the reading I have using my API master test kit. As you can see its almost definitely not zero ammonia. Having said this I bought some test strips and they are showing 0 ammonia and the Ammonia alert I have in the tank is also showing <0.02 (safe) ammonia.  I am 100% committed to doing this the right way so I will not be adding any creatures into this tank until I’m sure it’s safe. My RODI and Saltwater from my LFS are generating the same readings.

 

test.thumb.jpg.eba959b7d8f330680b069a662b5665b1.jpg

 

I think my next step is to seek another LFS, the one I have nearby is a national chain and I seriously doubt their knowledge levels. I think I will take a sample of my tank water and ask them to test it and see what they return. I must add for the last month or so I have been lightly feeding the tank and adding in beneficial bacteria.

 

I have also purchased some macro algae frags online from https://www.livealgae.co.uk/. They sent me over 2 lots of red grape algae, 1 Gracilaria Curtissae and 1 Codium. I am hoping these will add a little movement (once grown out) and perhaps a bit of stability to the tank.  I had to tie the frags to some ceramic rings (from my filter)for the time being but I intend to get some dry rock rubble and find a more suitable fixing method in the near future.

 

2057437820_algae3.thumb.jpg.8e535008163f5684ffff852aea6f6ad4.jpg737306727_algae1.thumb.jpg.c55a3c398b83173f556eb5c8ac98c26f.jpg1834531445_Algae2.thumb.jpg.c2871d9bdc4d65429f4e8a2608303295.jpg

 

I have also been pricing up retrofitting a Fluval Aquasky LED lamp into the T5 Lamp slot. Any thoughts on these?

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Ratvan
8 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

Hi All, 

 

I figured I will keep updating this thread as I have nobody to talk to about this stuff and my wife is getting bored of me talking about ammonia and algae. 

 

So as of last night 01/08/2019 this is my tank. 

 

tank.thumb.jpg.a4c2e03fce7f51faea45433cb90ac24f.jpg

 

 

As you can see I have added in a small wave maker, I went for the Hydor Koralia Nano 900 (we do litres where I'm from!), an Ammonia alert and I have also bought a refractometer.

 

My water parameters as of last night were:

PH - 8.2 

Ammonia – God Knows

Nitrite – 0

Nitrate – 20ppm

Specific Gravity – 1.020

 

I am quite happy to bring the Nitrates down through water changes and I need to increase the specific gravity a little, which I think is just down to me being slightly over zealous with top off. The ammonia issue however is causing me an issue. Below is the reading I have using my API master test kit. As you can see its almost definitely not zero ammonia. Having said this I bought some test strips and they are showing 0 ammonia and the Ammonia alert I have in the tank is also showing <0.02 (safe) ammonia.  I am 100% committed to doing this the right way so I will not be adding any creatures into this tank until I’m sure it’s safe. My RODI and Saltwater from my LFS are generating the same readings.

 

test.thumb.jpg.eba959b7d8f330680b069a662b5665b1.jpg

 

I think my next step is to seek another LFS, the one I have nearby is a national chain and I seriously doubt their knowledge levels. I think I will take a sample of my tank water and ask them to test it and see what they return. I must add for the last month or so I have been lightly feeding the tank and adding in beneficial bacteria.

 

I have also purchased some macro algae frags online from https://www.livealgae.co.uk/. They sent me over 2 lots of red grape algae, 1 Gracilaria Curtissae and 1 Codium. I am hoping these will add a little movement (once grown out) and perhaps a bit of stability to the tank.  I had to tie the frags to some ceramic rings (from my filter)for the time being but I intend to get some dry rock rubble and find a more suitable fixing method in the near future.

 

2057437820_algae3.thumb.jpg.8e535008163f5684ffff852aea6f6ad4.jpg737306727_algae1.thumb.jpg.c55a3c398b83173f556eb5c8ac98c26f.jpg1834531445_Algae2.thumb.jpg.c2871d9bdc4d65429f4e8a2608303295.jpg

 

I have also been pricing up retrofitting a Fluval Aquasky LED lamp into the T5 Lamp slot. Any thoughts on these?

Tank and set up is looking good, what part of the UK are you in (guessing UK) 

I have the exact same Issue with that API test kit, I cannot make out the colours. 

The Ceramic rings tie wrapped Macros are a great idea

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Redreidy
2 hours ago, Ratvan said:

Tank and set up is looking good, what part of the UK are you in (guessing UK) 

I have the exact same Issue with that API test kit, I cannot make out the colours. 

The Ceramic rings tie wrapped Macros are a great idea

Hi I’m in the north west of England (Warrington) not far from Manchester. Are you from the UK? 

 

Tbh the ammonia test is the only thing holding me back at the moment. I’m tempted to order a different type of liquid test kit to get an answer either way but this is starting to get expensive lol.

 

The macro turned up a lot sooner than I expected so I was searching round last night trying to find something to tether it too and a method. Thankfully I remember the ceramic rings in the filter!

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Ratvan
26 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

Hi I’m in the north west of England (Warrington) not far from Manchester. Are you from the UK? 

 

Tbh the ammonia test is the only thing holding me back at the moment. I’m tempted to order a different type of liquid test kit to get an answer either way but this is starting to get expensive lol.

 

The macro turned up a lot sooner than I expected so I was searching round last night trying to find something to tether it too and a method. Thankfully I remember the ceramic rings in the filter!

From Portsmouth area but living up in Leeds at the minute. I know Warrington well, have to go weekly for work. I'm guessing it is the Bold Heath store you're talking about? I know these two are decent for fish and corals. Usually spend my lunch break in one or the other before travelling back. Hopefully not too far away from you?

 

Urmston Aquatics, Stretford, M32 9TR

Kraken Corals, Accrington, BB5 5JG

 

Yeah I know what you mean about the test kits, I use Salifert kits. You can buy them for £10 each. I only use Ammonia and Phosphates

 

EDIT: OMG I forgot the best store over that way. The Original Burscough Aquatics store, Ormskirk, L40 7TE. The guy who owns and runs it (Steve) is brilliant and will help you out. A couple of times now he has put me off something that would have made him money, simply because he thought the procedure would be too stressful on teh livestock, 

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DSFIRSTSLTWATER
3 hours ago, Redreidy said:

Hi All, 

 

I figured I will keep updating this thread as I have nobody to talk to about this stuff and my wife is getting bored of me talking about ammonia and algae. 

 

So as of last night 01/08/2019 this is my tank. 

 

tank.thumb.jpg.a4c2e03fce7f51faea45433cb90ac24f.jpg

 

 

As you can see I have added in a small wave maker, I went for the Hydor Koralia Nano 900 (we do litres where I'm from!), an Ammonia alert and I have also bought a refractometer.

 

My water parameters as of last night were:

PH - 8.2 

Ammonia – God Knows

Nitrite – 0

Nitrate – 20ppm

Specific Gravity – 1.020

 

I am quite happy to bring the Nitrates down through water changes and I need to increase the specific gravity a little, which I think is just down to me being slightly over zealous with top off. The ammonia issue however is causing me an issue. Below is the reading I have using my API master test kit. As you can see its almost definitely not zero ammonia. Having said this I bought some test strips and they are showing 0 ammonia and the Ammonia alert I have in the tank is also showing <0.02 (safe) ammonia.  I am 100% committed to doing this the right way so I will not be adding any creatures into this tank until I’m sure it’s safe. My RODI and Saltwater from my LFS are generating the same readings.

 

test.thumb.jpg.eba959b7d8f330680b069a662b5665b1.jpg

 

I think my next step is to seek another LFS, the one I have nearby is a national chain and I seriously doubt their knowledge levels. I think I will take a sample of my tank water and ask them to test it and see what they return. I must add for the last month or so I have been lightly feeding the tank and adding in beneficial bacteria.

 

I have also purchased some macro algae frags online from https://www.livealgae.co.uk/. They sent me over 2 lots of red grape algae, 1 Gracilaria Curtissae and 1 Codium. I am hoping these will add a little movement (once grown out) and perhaps a bit of stability to the tank.  I had to tie the frags to some ceramic rings (from my filter)for the time being but I intend to get some dry rock rubble and find a more suitable fixing method in the near future.

 

2057437820_algae3.thumb.jpg.8e535008163f5684ffff852aea6f6ad4.jpg737306727_algae1.thumb.jpg.c55a3c398b83173f556eb5c8ac98c26f.jpg1834531445_Algae2.thumb.jpg.c2871d9bdc4d65429f4e8a2608303295.jpg

 

I have also been pricing up retrofitting a Fluval Aquasky LED lamp into the T5 Lamp slot. Any thoughts on these?

I love what you've done with the tank:wink:. Keep up the good work and remember to just go slow. Hardest part for sure. Good luck with the macros. My first go with macros didn't end well, however, I was having nutrient issues (long story) and they died off. @Ratvan said it already but the zip ties on those are awesome, I wish I had though of that lol.

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Clown79

Tank looks good!

 

I love the rings and zip tie idea for the macros! 

 

 

Can you get Dr Tim's ammonia in England? Dosing that would definitely determine if the cycle is complete.

 

With the other 2 testers saying you are safe and one saying it's not, can get frustrating and confusing. It could go 2 ways.

 

The tank didn't cycle because not enough of an ammonia source was added leaving a small amount of ammonia in the tank  or

 

The tank cycled and the api is giving a false positive, especially since its giving the reading to all your water, not just the tank.

 

 

Did you ever see the ammonia higher than 0.25?

 

 

A tip to keeping salinity from moving during top ups, find a visual or make a mark in a discreet place and top up to that every day.

 

It's an easy fix at this stage with no livestock. You can top up with sw. 

 

 

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Redreidy
5 hours ago, Ratvan said:

From Portsmouth area but living up in Leeds at the minute. I know Warrington well, have to go weekly for work. I'm guessing it is the Bold Heath store you're talking about? I know these two are decent for fish and corals. Usually spend my lunch break in one or the other before travelling back. Hopefully not too far away from you?

 

Urmston Aquatics, Stretford, M32 9TR

Kraken Corals, Accrington, BB5 5JG

 

Yeah I know what you mean about the test kits, I use Salifert kits. You can buy them for £10 each. I only use Ammonia and Phosphates

 

EDIT: OMG I forgot the best store over that way. The Original Burscough Aquatics store, Ormskirk, L40 7TE. The guy who owns and runs it (Steve) is brilliant and will help you out. A couple of times now he has put me off something that would have made him money, simply because he thought the procedure would be too stressful on teh livestock, 

Yep Bold Health, they have a good selection of dry goods and a wide selection of fish but the fist don't look particularly healthy.

 

Thank you for the advice II will check out the stores you mentioned. TBH I am still looking for somewhere to buy my first fish when I'm ready, I think its going to be a clown but I want something a bit different I think. I have been to the Abyss in stockport and they have an insane range but there are so many fish in their system I'm a bit dubious as to how healthy they will be. My other option is to buy online but I don't really fancy that because I want to eyeball the fish first. 

 

I think I will buy the Salifert Ammonia test after my next payday. 

4 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Tank looks good!

 

I love the rings and zip tie idea for the macros! 

 

 

Can you get Dr Tim's ammonia in England? Dosing that would definitely determine if the cycle is complete.

 

With the other 2 testers saying you are safe and one saying it's not, can get frustrating and confusing. It could go 2 ways.

 

The tank didn't cycle because not enough of an ammonia source was added leaving a small amount of ammonia in the tank  or

 

The tank cycled and the api is giving a false positive, especially since its giving the reading to all your water, not just the tank.

 

 

Did you ever see the ammonia higher than 0.25?

 

 

A tip to keeping salinity from moving during top ups, find a visual or make a mark in a discreet place and top up to that every day.

 

It's an easy fix at this stage with no livestock. You can top up with sw. 

 

 

I think I could probably buy Dr Tims online, I have been looking for ammonia on my tour of local fish stores but I haven't seen any. I think I might order some with the Salifert Ammonia test kit that should probably answer my worries for definite. Every test I have done has been that exact colour above for the ammonia test, however, when I feed the tank with some marine flakes I do see the nitrates go up over the course of the next couple of days which would suggest to me that the Nitrogen cycle is taking place. I have also dumped so much bacteria in the tank at this point and the tank has essentially been running now for 3-4 months. Having said this, I'm not going to take any risks until im sure!

 

Just out of curiosity what's your favourite clown variaty I have been doing some research I really like the maroon but my tanks not going to be big enough.  I'm considering getting a single saddleback or skunk clown, are these any more difficult to keep that an Percula or Ocellaris variant?

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DSFIRSTSLTWATER

I'd stay away from the maroon. They can be asshats and it would make it harder to add anything else. My clown has a weird coloring, she's black and white stripped and has orange accents on her fins.

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DSFIRSTSLTWATER

here's a pic of my clown

IMG_20190725_210640.jpg

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Redreidy
43 minutes ago, DSFIRSTSLTWATER said:

here's a pic of my clown

IMG_20190725_210640.jpg

I love those colours 😍 the black white and coloured face is what I like about the saddleback. I saw two of at my local fish store unfortunately it there were also two dead chromosome in that tank so for £40 I’d be reluctant to buy. Also I only want one so I don’t want to break up the pair. They do look stunning though. 

 

090C9903-4E9D-4BAD-A063-73BEEDD37E9C.thumb.jpeg.1cab93283673c94af3359b413c7cd53d.jpeg

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Clown79
49 minutes ago, DSFIRSTSLTWATER said:

here's a pic of my clown

IMG_20190725_210640.jpg

Awesome clown! Very different.

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Clown79
58 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

Yep Bold Health, they have a good selection of dry goods and a wide selection of fish but the fist don't look particularly healthy.

 

Thank you for the advice II will check out the stores you mentioned. TBH I am still looking for somewhere to buy my first fish when I'm ready, I think its going to be a clown but I want something a bit different I think. I have been to the Abyss in stockport and they have an insane range but there are so many fish in their system I'm a bit dubious as to how healthy they will be. My other option is to buy online but I don't really fancy that because I want to eyeball the fish first. 

 

I think I will buy the Salifert Ammonia test after my next payday. 

I think I could probably buy Dr Tims online, I have been looking for ammonia on my tour of local fish stores but I haven't seen any. I think I might order some with the Salifert Ammonia test kit that should probably answer my worries for definite. Every test I have done has been that exact colour above for the ammonia test, however, when I feed the tank with some marine flakes I do see the nitrates go up over the course of the next couple of days which would suggest to me that the Nitrogen cycle is taking place. I have also dumped so much bacteria in the tank at this point and the tank has essentially been running now for 3-4 months. Having said this, I'm not going to take any risks until im sure!

 

Just out of curiosity what's your favourite clown variaty I have been doing some research I really like the maroon but my tanks not going to be big enough.  I'm considering getting a single saddleback or skunk clown, are these any more difficult to keep that an Percula or Ocellaris variant?

I lover percs or ocellaris for nano's. 

 

6 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

I love those colours 😍 the black white and coloured face is what I like about the saddleback. I saw two of at my local fish store unfortunately it there were also two dead chromosome in that tank so for £40 I’d be reluctant to buy. Also I only want one so I don’t want to break up the pair. They do look stunning though. 

 

090C9903-4E9D-4BAD-A063-73BEEDD37E9C.thumb.jpeg.1cab93283673c94af3359b413c7cd53d.jpeg

Good call on not buying fish from a tank with dead fish in it.

 

 

After 3-4 mnths, the tank should be cycled, bacteria will build by that point even without doing much to it.

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DSFIRSTSLTWATER
6 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Awesome clown! Very different.

Thanks Clown :smilie: I had two when I started my tank. The little male didn't make it, so I just have the female. I don't even remember what kind of clown she was. I wanna say they had her labeled as a mocha clown, not really sure though. She likes to try and eat my hand when I have to go diving in the tank lol.

 

11 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

I love those colours 😍 the black white and coloured face is what I like about the saddleback. I saw two of at my local fish store unfortunately it there were also two dead chromosome in that tank so for £40 I’d be reluctant to buy. Also I only want one so I don’t want to break up the pair. They do look stunning though. 

 

090C9903-4E9D-4BAD-A063-73BEEDD37E9C.thumb.jpeg.1cab93283673c94af3359b413c7cd53d.jpeg

I'm a big fan of the unusual colors. Those are pretty, I've just heard a lot of mixed feelings on maroon clowns.

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Clown79
5 minutes ago, DSFIRSTSLTWATER said:

Thanks Clown :smilie: I had two when I started my tank. The little male didn't make it, so I just have the female. I don't even remember what kind of clown she was. I wanna say they had her labeled as a mocha clown, not really sure though. She likes to try and eat my hand when I have to go diving in the tank lol.

 

I'm a big fan of the unusual colors. Those are pretty, I've just heard a lot of mixed feelings on maroon clowns.

Yw. I had a female similar to yours. Just an orange area around her mouth and her fins. It was really cool but she was quite a mean b$!+h. Her poor boyfriend and shrimp had to hide behind the rocks. I rehomed her and then the Male finally came out of hiding.

 

So sorry you lost the Male. 

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DSFIRSTSLTWATER
2 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Yw. I had a female similar to yours. Just an orange area around her mouth and her fins. It was really cool but she was quite a mean b$!+h. Her poor boyfriend and shrimp had to hide behind the rocks. I rehomed her and then the Male finally came out of hiding.

 

So sorry you lost the Male. 

I have a feeling he lost to her. It was early on in my reefing life and didn't catch it fast enough. Weird thing was they entered the tank at the same time and used to swim together. They were the same size so i'd have to guess that she wanted to be the girl and then kicked the crap out of him lol. Only thing I could think of. I was pretty bummed about it, it was an orange misbar too. I've decided no more clowns...I'm gonna stick with little peaceful fish :smilie:

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Redreidy

Update!


Salifert Ammonia testing kit arrived yesterday……….and I have 0 ammonia in the tank!! I don’t know what’s happened with that API test but it’s clearly faulty.


I think at this point I am ready to get a small clean-up crew and perhaps a fish. Clean up crew wise I am thinking just a 3 trochus and 3 Nassarius as suggested earlier in this thread. I do intend on adding a shrimp of some sort as well once the tank gets more established. 


Fish wise I am thinking about a Perc Clown and a Clown Goby, I’m also tempted by one of either a Green Chromis or a Royal Gamma. I assume I would add the Perc Clown in first as the most aggressive of the three fish?


I have a significant amount of Diatoms in my tank currently, I have read this would suggest that I have a high level of Phosphate in my tank, is phosphate dangerous to livestock? I have read about filter additives that can remove phosphates is this good idea?


Two of my micro algae are doing well however both red grape frags appear to be dying. At this point I’m considering perhaps having a pop at corals in the future so I might have to invest in further test kits to see what else is going on in the water, any suggestions
 

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Ratvan
1 minute ago, Redreidy said:

Update!


Salifert Ammonia testing kit arrived yesterday……….and I have 0 ammonia in the tank!! I don’t know what’s happened with that API test but it’s clearly faulty.


I think at this point I am ready to get a small clean-up crew and perhaps a fish. Clean up crew wise I am thinking just a 3 trochus and 3 Nassarius as suggested earlier in this thread. I do intend on adding a shrimp of some sort as well once the tank gets more established. 


Fish wise I am thinking about a Perc Clown and a Clown Goby, I’m also tempted by one of either a Green Chromis or a Royal Gamma. I assume I would add the Perc Clown in first as the most aggressive of the three fish?


I have a significant amount of Diatoms in my tank currently, I have read this would suggest that I have a high level of Phosphate in my tank, is phosphate dangerous to livestock? I have read about filter additives that can remove phosphates is this good idea?


Two of my micro algae are doing well however both red grape frags appear to be dying. At this point I’m considering perhaps having a pop at corals in the future so I might have to invest in further test kits to see what else is going on in the water, any suggestions
 

I'd put in your CuC and the Goby first, most aggressive fish goes in last. That way they have no "established" territory. Are you planning on a QT for the fish at all?

 

Phosphates are used up by Corals and Macroalgae, and algae. Diatoms are normal however, I think it is silicates that they feed on. I don't like Chemical additives myself, I prefer patience and finding and keeping the tank in balance. 

 

When you add the CuC and Fish, you may find that the Algae in the tank perks up as it has a food source (fish waste), what corals are you thinking of keeping? If SPS you'll need to test for Alkalinity, Magnesium and Calcium 

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Tamberav
53 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

Update!


Salifert Ammonia testing kit arrived yesterday……….and I have 0 ammonia in the tank!! I don’t know what’s happened with that API test but it’s clearly faulty.


I think at this point I am ready to get a small clean-up crew and perhaps a fish. Clean up crew wise I am thinking just a 3 trochus and 3 Nassarius as suggested earlier in this thread. I do intend on adding a shrimp of some sort as well once the tank gets more established. 


Fish wise I am thinking about a Perc Clown and a Clown Goby, I’m also tempted by one of either a Green Chromis or a Royal Gamma. I assume I would add the Perc Clown in first as the most aggressive of the three fish?


I have a significant amount of Diatoms in my tank currently, I have read this would suggest that I have a high level of Phosphate in my tank, is phosphate dangerous to livestock? I have read about filter additives that can remove phosphates is this good idea?


Two of my micro algae are doing well however both red grape frags appear to be dying. At this point I’m considering perhaps having a pop at corals in the future so I might have to invest in further test kits to see what else is going on in the water, any suggestions
 

Diatoms feed on silicates and they will go away on their own in time.

 

Do not add phosphate remover...that would be potentially dangerous in such a young tank.

 

Keep it simple.

 

Add the least aggressive fish first. If it is a small baby clownfish...then a clown can be added first. Otherwise the goby or chromis. 

 

Red sea...salifert...or Hanna for alk and phosphorus are all good. 

 

Probably don't need much for testing in the beginning if you starting with simple softies. 

 

 

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Redreidy
40 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

I'd put in your CuC and the Goby first, most aggressive fish goes in last. That way they have no "established" territory. Are you planning on a QT for the fish at all?

 

Phosphates are used up by Corals and Macroalgae, and algae. Diatoms are normal however, I think it is silicates that they feed on. I don't like Chemical additives myself, I prefer patience and finding and keeping the tank in balance. 

 

When you add the CuC and Fish, you may find that the Algae in the tank perks up as it has a food source (fish waste), what corals are you thinking of keeping? If SPS you'll need to test for Alkalinity, Magnesium and Calcium 

 

Ahh I got it the wrong way around! I will look at getting the Clown Goby first then with the CuC, this works out pretty well actually because its likely to have the lowest bio load to ease the tank in. I have thought a QT but I am struggling to see how I can achieve this without essentially setting up whole new system, which for monetary reason is a non starter at this moment in time. Although again I really want to do things the right way so maybe its something I need to think about. What would be the basic requirements (Tank, Filter, heater, Light?)

 

I agree regarding additives if I can control the water levels through natural process it would be much better. I actually once had a planted pea puffer tank that was pretty much self sustaining, I could leave it or a month without water changes and the parameters would remain perfect. The 2 puffers barely took the food I offered as the snail and shrimp population of the tank was quite sustainable.  

 

To be honest I haven't really done much reading on corals at this point but it will be easier variety's at first. It will be some way off as I will need to upgrade the lighting before attempting but I can start trying to get my water parameters in the right ball park in advance.  

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Ratvan
2 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

 

Ahh I got it the wrong way around! I will look at getting the Clown Goby first then with the CuC, this works out pretty well actually because its likely to have the lowest bio load to ease the tank in. I have thought a QT but I am struggling to see how I can achieve this without essentially setting up whole new system, which for monetary reason is a non starter at this moment in time. Although again I really want to do things the right way so maybe its something I need to think about. What would be the basic requirements (Tank, Filter, heater, Light?)

 

I agree regarding additives if I can control the water levels through natural process it would be much better. I actually once had a planted pea puffer tank that was pretty much self sustaining, I could leave it or a month without water changes and the parameters would remain perfect. The 2 puffers barely took the food I offered as the snail and shrimp population of the tank was quite sustainable.  

 

To be honest I haven't really done much reading on corals at this point but it will be easier variety's at first. It will be some way off as I will need to upgrade the lighting before attempting but I can start trying to get my water parameters in the right ball park in advance.  

A basic QT would be a 5G bucket (or storage container), heater and pump. PVC pipes (L, T and Y bends) for cover. I use an under the bed storage tub from B&M's

 

Be wary of "Beginner" corals, many spread like weeds and can quickly overtake the tank 

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Redreidy
20 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

A basic QT would be a 5G bucket (or storage container), heater and pump. PVC pipes (L, T and Y bends) for cover. I use an under the bed storage tub from B&M's

 

Be wary of "Beginner" corals, many spread like weeds and can quickly overtake the tank 

Thanks for the advice, would you recommend doing this for the first fish or as its the only inhabitant can this be done in the tank? This would leave me enough time to gather the stuff together for a QT. I assume the QT will still need to cycle. back in my FW days I used to always keep extra media in my filters so I could quick cycle additional tanks does the same work for salt?

 

47 minutes ago, Tamberav said:

Diatoms feed on silicates and they will go away on their own in time.

 

Do not add phosphate remover...that would be potentially dangerous in such a young tank.

 

Keep it simple.

 

Add the least aggressive fish first. If it is a small baby clownfish...then a clown can be added first. Otherwise the goby or chromis. 

 

Red sea...salifert...or Hanna for alk and phosphorus are all good. 

 

Probably don't need much for testing in the beginning if you starting with simple softies. 

 

 

You are right I will just watch and wait on the diatoms. This is part of the problem you read online resources and they all offer different advice. 

 

I have just looked up Hanna testers..... they are expensive! The RedSea kits look reasonable and cover a few bases so I might invest in one of these.

 

Thanks for your advice!

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Ratvan
8 minutes ago, Redreidy said:

Thanks for the advice, would you recommend doing this for the first fish or as its the only inhabitant can this be done in the tank? This would leave me enough time to gather the stuff together for a QT. I assume the QT will still need to cycle. back in my FW days I used to always keep extra media in my filters so I could quick cycle additional tanks does the same work for salt?

 

You are right I will just watch and wait on the diatoms. This is part of the problem you read online resources and they all offer different advice. 

 

I have just looked up Hanna testers..... they are expensive! The RedSea kits look reasonable and cover a few bases so I might invest in one of these.

 

Thanks for your advice!

I personally put all my fish through a QT. I know that many people do not QT at all. IMO it is easier to view them for illness or parasite and I find it easier to "train" the fish to eat in a QT. Yes a similar thing works for Saltwater..

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Clown79
3 hours ago, Redreidy said:

Thanks for the advice, would you recommend doing this for the first fish or as its the only inhabitant can this be done in the tank? This would leave me enough time to gather the stuff together for a QT. I assume the QT will still need to cycle. back in my FW days I used to always keep extra media in my filters so I could quick cycle additional tanks does the same work for salt?

 

You are right I will just watch and wait on the diatoms. This is part of the problem you read online resources and they all offer different advice. 

 

I have just looked up Hanna testers..... they are expensive! The RedSea kits look reasonable and cover a few bases so I might invest in one of these.

 

Thanks for your advice!

Qt everything, even the first fish. If the first fish has anything, you will need to run the tank fishless for 8 weeks so it's just safer to qt, even for observation.

 

Diatoms are normal and will go away on their own once the silicate is used up. You can of course vacuum the sand during waterchanges and a cuc will help 

 

Salifert are good testers. Hanna are expensive but I gotta say, worth it when it comes to phosphates and alk. 

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Redreidy
17 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Qt everything, even the first fish. If the first fish has anything, you will need to run the tank fishless for 8 weeks so it's just safer to qt, even for observation.

 

Diatoms are normal and will go away on their own once the silicate is used up. You can of course vacuum the sand during waterchanges and a cuc will help 

 

Salifert are good testers. Hanna are expensive but I gotta say, worth it when it comes to phosphates and alk. 

Fair enough! My wife is going to kill me when she see's me setting up a second tank. Do you QT your clean up crew also?

 

Cheers for the advise I really appreciate it.

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Redreidy

Okay so I have ordered a small tank, heater and filter to set up a quarantine take. I have been doing some reading of quarantine guides and in essence people are advising quarantine periods of between 2-4 months. They are also advising multiple medication dosing, freshwater dips etc. 

 

Are these people being overly cautious or is this the right way to do it? I'm all for taking it slow but I started this tank at the end of March and at this rate I wont add a fish until the new year!

 

What are the must do's of a marine QT?

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