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12 Gallon Long - "Suspension" - decommissioned.


Halo_003

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The extra acrylic wall I think would push high flow through those two cutouts on either side on the bottom of the baffle and keep any debris in the skimmer section from settling I think, at least that's why I have it there.

 

My understanding is a valve on the mame will be a no no.

As for pump, bigger is better. The beauty of these DC pumps is you can just throttle them back with the controller and not use as much electric at the same time.

Yeah that's my guess as well, if so not an issue I don't think it would do a whole lot anyways, and I don't need an insane amount of display tank turnover through the sump. I'm slightly concerned if I get the 6000 it would be way too strong and I'd have to switch it out for the 4000 which would be a pain on a running tank.

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Yeah that's my guess as well, if so not an issue I don't think it would do a whole lot anyways, and I don't need an insane amount of display tank turnover through the sump. I'm slightly concerned if I get the 6000 it would be way too strong and I'd have to switch it out for the 4000 which would be a pain on a running tank.

 

Why, just fit the pump at the end of a flexi pipe and all you have to do is lift up the flexi, pull the pump off and slip the new one on.

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Why, just fit the pump at the end of a flexi pipe and all you have to do is lift up the flexi, pull the pump off and slip the new one on.

Well okay it wouldn't be a big deal. It's just the principle and the joy of doing it right the first time. :)

 

Edit: any thoughts on the Icecap K2-50 versus a Simplicity 120DC skimmer?

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Just thinking out loud here... I figure that either the 4000 or the 6000 would be a safe bet, between 3 reactors, throttling the controller down, and a gate valve on the return. I shot Neill a message to see what kind of flow rate I need through the MAME, but I figure 400GPH for the Biopellets reactor, 150-200 for the carbon reactor, and 250-300 for the GFO, plus whatever the MAME would need. So if the MAME does need a ton of flow I think the best bet would be the DC6000.

 

Additionally if the MAME does need super high flow rates, then I may not need to stick an RW4 in the display at all, which would also obviously make it very safe for nems. The only possible point of failure I could see with that setup is a failure in the MAME's siphon, or a clog in the drain. That can be fixed with a properly small enough return chamber though, or maybe a shutoff switch/leak detector of some sort. A very interesting possibility for sure.

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Just thinking out loud here... I figure that either the 4000 or the 6000 would be a safe bet, between 3 reactors, throttling the controller down, and a gate valve on the return. I shot Neill a message to see what kind of flow rate I need through the MAME, but I figure 400GPH for the Biopellets reactor, 150-200 for the carbon reactor, and 250-300 for the GFO, plus whatever the MAME would need. So if the MAME does need a ton of flow I think the best bet would be the DC6000.

 

Additionally if the MAME does need super high flow rates, then I may not need to stick an RW4 in the display at all, which would also obviously make it very safe for nems. The only possible point of failure I could see with that setup is a failure in the MAME's siphon, or a clog in the drain. That can be fixed with a properly small enough return chamber though, or maybe a shutoff switch/leak detector of some sort. A very interesting possibility for sure.

Just shot you an email with some details,

Looks like a great setup. Following this build

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Just shot you an email with some details,

Looks like a great setup. Following this build

Thanks! DCT 6000 it is then, that will give me a bit of overhead, about 200-300GPH before accounting for head pressure and resistance.

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Just read through this thread, your scape is awesome! The rod for stabilization is genius. It's also really cool to see another transfer student with a reef tank :)
I feel like with every page your plumbing got more and more complicated :lol: You obviously know what you're doing, and if you plumb everything correctly, you shouldn't have to worry about sump overflows at all.

 

It's very interesting to see someone doing an in line system instead of a sump. In the tanks where your got the idea, did they have skimmers in the display? Or in-line heaters?

 

Congratulations on transferring to UF! And good luck in advance for the move!

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Just read through this thread, your scape is awesome! The rod for stabilization is genius. It's also really cool to see another transfer student with a reef tank :)

I feel like with every page your plumbing got more and more complicated :lol: You obviously know what you're doing, and if you plumb everything correctly, you shouldn't have to worry about sump overflows at all.

 

It's very interesting to see someone doing an in line system instead of a sump. In the tanks where your got the idea, did they have skimmers in the display? Or in-line heaters?

 

Congratulations on transferring to UF! And good luck in advance for the move!

Thank you! :)

 

The inline system someone else on here had used, and I loved how it looked so I figured it would be fun to give a try. That tank didn't have a skimmer, I'll add a link to this post in a minute if I can find it. But in mine the heater is a 200W 1/2" inline Hydor heater.

 

I didn't end up making the move with it to my apartment in Gainesville, my family is in Jacksonville so while I've been gone I've just driven home every now and then to do WCs and cleaning, during the week I just have my parents feed the clown pellets and keep an eye on it. Now this summer I might be moving it cross country dependent on if and or where I get an internship. (most I applied to are in Texas, Illinois, NY, etc.)

 

The one complaint I have with the lily pipes and canisters for an inline system is it doesn't surface skim. The MAME overflow will, so it could go on instead of the lily pipes with the current system, but it makes more sense to add a small sump to get the skimmer and ATO sensor out of the display. I'll also probably upgrade the skimmer to a more serious one when I do add the sump setup. I'm hoping to also remove the hayi macro from the display, my goal is to eventually have the display be 100% BTA, and no corals. Working on getting some pest algae issues resolved before selling any of the current corals though, and I might keep my acan collection which would give me an acan island and the main structure covered in BTAs. :)

 

Edit: added link to build I looked at.

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Thank you! :)

 

The inline system someone else on here had used, and I loved how it looked so I figured it would be fun to give a try. That tank didn't have a skimmer, I'll add a link to this post in a minute if I can find it. But in mine the heater is a 200W 1/2" inline Hydor heater.

 

I didn't end up making the move with it to my apartment in Gainesville, my family is in Jacksonville so while I've been gone I've just driven home every now and then to do WCs and cleaning, during the week I just have my parents feed the clown pellets and keep an eye on it. Now this summer I might be moving it cross country dependent on if and or where I get an internship. (most I applied to are in Texas, Illinois, NY, etc.)

 

The one complaint I have with the lily pipes and canisters for an inline system is it doesn't surface skim. The MAME overflow will, so it could go on instead of the lily pipes with the current system, but it makes more sense to add a small sump to get the skimmer and ATO sensor out of the display. I'll also probably upgrade the skimmer to a more serious one when I do add the sump setup. I'm hoping to also remove the hayi macro from the display, my goal is to eventually have the display be 100% BTA, and no corals. Working on getting some pest algae issues resolved before selling any of the current corals though, and I might keep my acan collection which would give me an acan island and the main structure covered in BTAs. :)

 

Edit: added link to build I looked at.

Thanks for the link, now that tank has even more unique plumbing! I'll have to read through it later

 

Ah, that's probably easier. I brought my pico with me, and just for this academic year I will have moved it 4 times :wacko: (and I didn't even go home for spring/thanksgiving breaks)

I applied to a few summer internships cross country too, although I'm kinda glad my plans changed cause I don't know how I'd be able to take my tank with me. Would you have the ship the tank to yourself and then had someone ship you livestock once you arrived and set up?

 

Personally, I prefer sump setups to keep heaters and skimmers out of the display, as well as the additional water volume and space for a fuge. I think it would definitely clean up your display.

 

I vote to keep an acan garden! A tank full of BTAs on your scape will still look awesome!

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Thanks for the link, now that tank has even more unique plumbing! I'll have to read through it later

 

Ah, that's probably easier. I brought my pico with me, and just for this academic year I will have moved it 4 times :wacko: (and I didn't even go home for spring/thanksgiving breaks)

I applied to a few summer internships cross country too, although I'm kinda glad my plans changed cause I don't know how I'd be able to take my tank with me. Would you have the ship the tank to yourself and then had someone ship you livestock once you arrived and set up?

 

Personally, I prefer sump setups to keep heaters and skimmers out of the display, as well as the additional water volume and space for a fuge. I think it would definitely clean up your display.

 

I vote to keep an acan garden! A tank full of BTAs on your scape will still look awesome!

Yikes, 4 times would be scary. If I move mine it will just go in my Civic and make the drive with me with a power converter for heat and flow in a tub.

 

I initially did the inline system without a sump to limit the possibility of an overflow problem, and just because I felt like giving it a test, but I think it will look really clean with just the MAME visible in the tank, plus potentially an RW4 if I need it.

 

We will see about the acans. :)

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I just hope Scorched with his fancy 3D plumbing mockup doesn't see this. :D

 

I see it :P

 

You have 4-5 drains that all need to be filtered. Double socks would be my choice.

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I see it :P

 

You have 4-5 drains that all need to be filtered. Double socks would be my choice.

:o

 

I agree, I think the dual sock design is better. I didn't see enough need to invest the time in an AutoCAD/3DS MAX render. :lol:

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Trimmed down OP, I think I also have the plumbing plan nailed down, but wow the fittings kill you on price lol, this diagram has about $150 worth of various fittings in it. I had to do it in paint to maintain consistency. :lol:

 

PLUMBING%20DETAILED_zps9f66vev3.png

*the push connect tubing back to drain area should just be like you'd see on a typical BRS reactor setup, no elbows needed. The diagram shows 90 degree corners going back to the sump just to make it easier to read.

**drawing not to scale.

 

I'm curious if anyone has any input on fish stocking. Right now I have 3 Flaming Prawn Gobies and an Occ. Clownfish (gladiator pattern), eventually I would like to get something like a misbar clown to go with her, but beyond the clown pair and more FPG (I would like a big group like 10 or so) I am unsure.

 

I've thought about things like (just ideas, not a stocking plan!) an African Flameback dwarf angel, a pair of Bangaii Cardinals to try to breed, a pair or trio of Helfrichi or Purple Firefish, a Royal Gramma, a gold assessor, or a Linespot flasher wrasse, but I am just unsure how any of these would do in a BTA dominant display. I will probably keep my acans at least so there will be a little LPS as well. Any ideas would be welcome. B)

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A pygmy or possum wrasse would be a very cool addition. One of my favorites.

That is a cool idea! I hadn't thought about them before. I like the idea of a pair of Bangaii Cardinals, I think it would be really cool to try breeding them eventually, and I've read in a couple places that they will associate/hover around BTAs. I also like the idea of some sort of dwarf angel to help keep the display a bit cleaner. Decisions decisions... I'm not in any particular rush I just like to have a solid plan so that I can schedule in QT times etc. (as you can see by all the diagrams and 3D designs lol)

 

If it was a big enough tank I would just do a clownfish harem and only BTAs, but I don't think a small harem of 6-7 is a good idea at all. Seems like that would just be asking for trouble.

 

Interesting side note though, my primary (happy) BTA has gotten some gold coloration on its tentacles over the past couple weeks, very neat. I will try to get a somewhat decent picture tomorrow. :)

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DFS has 15% off today only w/ coupon code TAXTIME.

 

Skimmer upgrade inbound. :)

 

yay_zpslw254fws.jpg

 

$170 with free shipping pushed me over the edge, I couldn't find a K2-50 available anywhere so I was decided screw it let's go big. Yay impulse buys!

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Yay for upgrades!

 

Did you ever get a pic of that BTA?

Sorta. I'm hoping it gets more defined over time. I have an iPhone pic that shows the gold as I see it, but the colors are off, it was with normal LED settings and not a photo optimized setting. So forgive the quality, blue is a bit overblown but the gold/green coloration is accurate to my eye. :(

 

20160403_183013000_iOS_lzn_zpspybi7rcs.j

 

 

 

 

Over the weekend I found my Olympus Stylus Tough (12MP) P&S camera, so I'm hoping to figure out how to get it working with the LED colors, frankly I haven't had time yet. :lol:

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So let's talk sump design... Yesterday I picked up 3 pieces of 12"x30", and two pieces of 12"x12" clear 1/4" thick acrylic. I'm thinking of doing the sump as 28.5" x 10.5" x 12". I also have a bunch of 3/16" thick black, so I'm thinking black baffles and a black eurobrace should loke pretty nice. I decided I didn't want to be stuck witth a 10G. So I'm currently looking for some really killer sump layouts to model it after, any ideas? Also, any ideas what size hole the 4" filter socks from BRS require?

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rickztahone

Do you want to run a fuge? What media will you run? ATO incorporated? How large is your skimmer?

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Cool build and great rockscape. Seems like its really well planned :)

Thank you! I hope it turns out a lot better with the changes I'm making. I am still not happy with it.. ;)

 

Do you want to run a fuge? What media will you run? ATO incorporated? How large is your skimmer?

I am not sure, possibly. I was thinking about potentially having a removable baffle to have a macro algae/frag section and a skimmer section, I can't decide though. I've been looking at sump designs all day, haven't found a clear winner yet. ATO reservoir will be separate, have a plan for it. The skimmer is a Simplicity DC120, roughly 7"x7" footprint. I'll have 3 (GFO, Carbon, Biopellets) reactors so I don't think I'd need to run media bags or anything.

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Okay so how does this look? This gives me a small frag or macro algae section if wanted, and the baffle can be removed if not. The walls noted as 1 and 2 would both be removable with plastic thumbscrews. I want this to be useful if I decide to switch (eventually) to a Mr. Aqua 22L drilled with a ghost overflow, so I think the ample space for the drains is a good thing.

 

sump28_zpsqbxzxasj.png

sump282_zpsmeht3vi3.png

 

Thoughts?

 

 

I could also do without the baffle to separate the skimmer/fuge section entirely and just stick a piece of egg crate there, I haven't decided yet.

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rickztahone

that'll work, although the more and more I saw sump setups, the more I started liking having the fuge at the end rather than flow through in the sump. This way it has its own flow going through it T'd off at the return pump.

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that'll work, although the more and more I saw sump setups, the more I started liking having the fuge at the end rather than flow through in the sump. This way it has its own flow going through it T'd off at the return pump.

Like this you mean?

 

sump%2030_zpsrfj5entr.png

 

That would give me more water depth at the least, and more control over flow. And I expect to have a significant amount of flow so you are probably onto something here..

 

I'm not sure on the baffles though, I don't know if I really need over under over between skimmer and return, or if just over under would work fine. I suppose I could always make the extra over a removable baffle. :huh:

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