mcblablabla Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Is that even a constant current driver or does it just adjust voltage output? Datasheets for the LEDs used: http://www.philipslumileds.com/uploads/382/DS106-pdf'>Luxeon T (white, royal blue) http://www.philipslumileds.com/uploads/265/DS68-pdf'>Rebel and ES color (lime, blue, cyan) http://www.semileds.com/system/files/C3535U-UNL1.pdf'>SemiLEDs C35 (violet) Hi Jedi, Ist both current driver plus controller for 12 channels and two fans. I (or Google) put a translation into this thread: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluetwiled.com%2Fdoku.php%3Fid%3Dbluetwiled2x%3Astart&sandbox=1 And http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluetwiled.com%2Fdoku.php%3Fid%3Dbluetwiled2x%3Ahardware&sandbox=1 Besides that he offers also slave boards and power boards for higher voltages. Just try Google translate. The englisch Text is readable. Thanks, Gerd Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hi Jedi, Ist both current driver plus controller for 12 channels and two fans. I (or Google) put a translation into this thread: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluetwiled.com%2Fdoku.php%3Fid%3Dbluetwiled2x%3Astart&sandbox=1 And http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluetwiled.com%2Fdoku.php%3Fid%3Dbluetwiled2x%3Ahardware&sandbox=1 Besides that he offers also slave boards and power boards for higher voltages. Just try Google translate. The englisch Text is readable. Thanks, Gerd The first link says that it is simply a step-down converter and just burns the excess voltage as heat, but the second link says it 'keeps current constant and varies voltage'. Not sure which to believe, but it does not appear to use LED drivers, all I see are different capacitors. EDIT: Nevermind, I see that the board is double sided, there are components and what appear to be drivers on the back side. Carry on Link to comment
mcblablabla Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 The first link says that it is simply a step-down converter and just burns the excess voltage as heat, but the second link says it 'keeps current constant and varies voltage'. Not sure which to believe, but it does not appear to use LED drivers, all I see are different capacitors. EDIT: Nevermind, I see that the board is double sided, there are components and what appear to be drivers on the back side. Carry on Yes it varies the voltage. During the purchasing process you have to Delfine which current you need on certain channel. See also the FAQ. Many German DIY built their LED fixtures. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thanks Dave, one more question, because we have an DIY-manufacturer for LED controller with 12 channels (adjustable from 350 mA to 1000 mA) and maximum Voltage of 24 V https://www.bluetwiled.com/doku.php?id=bluetwiled2x:start That’s why one more question. Please can you give me the information about the Voltage for Channel 1 Channel 2 Channel 3 Channel 4 Thank you again for your answer! Gerd Gerd, To be safe go with a power supply of 24v. The amperage will depend on the drivers you use. I am not familiar with the drivers linked above. -dave Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Yes it varies the voltage. During the purchasing process you have to Delfine which current you need on certain channel. See also the FAQ. Many German DIY built their LED fixtures. Varying the voltage is fine, but depending on what is done for a driver you can waste as much power as is going into the LEDs. CAT4101 drivers used to popular in DIY LED builds. They accept 24v input and output 12-23v, but if your LEDs are only using 12v, then the driver dissipates the remaining 11v as heat, using up 12 extra watts of power for a 1A driver. They've fallen out of vogue for Meanwell LDD and A6211 that don't dissipate that extra wattage and only output enough voltage for the LEDs to use, keeping efficiency at 90-97%. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 For anyone wanting a quick guide to the voltage and wattage requirements of each channel, it is as follows: CH1 (2x Luxeon T 2700K warm white, 1x Luxeon T 4000K neutral white, 2x Rebel ES lime) 13.6v @ 350mA (4.8 watts) 14v @ 700mA (9.8 watts) 14.3v @ 1A (14.3 watts) CH2 (4x Luxeon T royal blue) 10.9v @ 350mA (3.8 watts) 11.2v @ 700mA (7.8 watts) 11.5v @ 1A (11.5 watts) CH3 (2x SemiLEDs C35 violet) 6.8v @ 350mA (2.4 watts) 7.2v @ 700mA (5 watts) CH4 (1x Rebel blue, 1x Rebel cyan) 5.8v @ 350mA (2 watts) 6.2v @ 700mA (4.3 watts) 6.4v @ 1A (6.4 watts) So, with all channels at 350mA, each array uses 13 watts. At 700mA, that goes up to 26.9 watts, and at 1A (still 700mA for violet), it jumps to 37.2 watts. It is recommended to keep them at 700mA to keep the LEDs running cooler, but if you have excellent cooling, you can push the other channels to 1A. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 For anyone wanting a quick guide to the voltage and wattage requirements of each channel, it is as follows: CH1 (2x Luxeon T 2700K warm white, 1x Luxeon T 4000K neutral white, 2x Rebel ES lime) 13.6v @ 350mA (4.8 watts) 14v @ 700mA (9.8 watts) 14.3v @ 1A (14.3 watts) CH2 (4x Luxeon T royal blue) 10.9v @ 350mA (3.8 watts) 11.2v @ 700mA (7.8 watts) 11.5v @ 1A (11.5 watts) CH3 (2x SemiLEDs C35 violet) 6.8v @ 350mA (2.4 watts) 7.2v @ 700mA (5 watts) CH4 (1x Rebel blue, 1x Rebel cyan) 5.8v @ 350mA (2 watts) 6.2v @ 700mA (4.3 watts) 6.4v @ 1A (6.4 watts) So, with all channels at 350mA, each array uses 13 watts. At 700mA, that goes up to 26.9 watts, and at 1A (still 700mA for violet), it jumps to 37.2 watts. It is recommended to keep them at 700mA to keep the LEDs running cooler, but if you have excellent cooling, you can push the other channels to 1A. Thanks for doing this Ben. Link to comment
Chris155hp Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Just to be clear I wanna upgrade my tide/storm which is a 2 channel to the new board with 4 channel would only cost me $55? Link to comment
aviator300 Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Wow, and the new stuff just keeps on comin... Dave; Ask me anything at all about aircraft or Cardiovascular pathology and i can answer but i'm lost when it comes to electronic circuitry. So does all this V3 vs V2 array information mean that when i order my Duo (uncle Sam says about another week or less), I will have 4 channel dimming rather than the 2 channel dimming that was on the MiniTide i purchased from you about 6 months ago? Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Wow, and the new stuff just keeps on comin... Dave; Ask me anything at all about aircraft or Cardiovascular pathology and i can answer but i'm lost when it comes to electronic circuitry. So does all this V3 vs V2 array information mean that when i order my Duo (uncle Sam says about another week or less), I will have 4 channel dimming rather than the 2 channel dimming that was on the MiniTide i purchased from you about 6 months ago? All come standard with two channel, if you want to upgrade I can do so for a smaller fee. -Dave Just to be clear I wanna upgrade my tide/storm which is a 2 channel to the new board with 4 channel would only cost me $55? Negative, you still need a two extra drivers. Drop me a PM. -Dave Link to comment
aviator300 Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 About the 2 channel VS 4 channel. Sorry dave, i should have read the entire thread because in your opening post you clearly stated "I will be offering multi channel units for a small increase in price but all Nano Box units will still come standard with dual channel" Look for my order soon. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Does anyone know is the CLG-150 would be able to keep up with the power of these with all 4 channels at 700mA ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 The boards still only use ~28w. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The boards still only use ~28w. Sooo that's a yes then,I figured so. Just wanted to make sure. What T5's would be good in a retro,coral+ ? Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 It makes no sense to do this, but I really want a Duo 4 T5 24" hybrid. It really makes no sense because that's 2 times the size of my tank display. It also makes no sense because I don't need one. But I want one. Link to comment
Mirya Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 It makes no sense to do this, but I really want a Duo 4 T5 24" hybrid. It really makes no sense because that's 2 times the size of my tank display. It also makes no sense because I don't need one. But I want one. I completely understand where you are coming from though! Link to comment
Hexadron Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Any videos of what this baby can do? Link to comment
Chris155hp Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 how are the UV Leds improved over v2? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 how are the UV Leds improved over v2? Went from really shitty bins to really good bins. Still not UV, though, pet peeve Link to comment
Chris155hp Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 What's the nm range 410-420 I really want too dial them way up Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 What's the nm range 410-420 I really want too dial them way up Yes, they are SemiLEDs C35, U70 color bin. Link to comment
Chris155hp Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Please excuse my ignorence but when an led is "bin picked" is it chosen for efficiency/spectrum/output etc? Link to comment
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