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Nano Box V3 Array : Lime, Luxeon T, UV


DaveFason

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jedimasterben

Please excuse my ignorence but when an led is "bin picked" is it chosen for efficiency/spectrum/output etc?

They are separated into bins by the factory depending on their dominant wavelength, forward voltage (which determines their efficiency), and output.

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Ah, in which way do I have to connect them, in order to have the channel combination mentioned in post 56

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/page-3#entry4944958

?

 

Are there other useful combination possible?

 

Thanks,

Gerd

You can do 2-4 channels. Some have the blue, royal and cyan on one, violets on second, whites/lime on third. All depends on you.

-Dave

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jedimasterben

Ah, in which way do I have to connect them, in order to have the channel combination mentioned in post 56

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/page-3#entry4944958

?

 

Are there other useful combination possible?

 

Thanks,

Gerd

None of those are combinations, those are the four channels wired up individually. You can combine them in pretty much any way that you like.

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None of those are combinations, those are the four channels wired up individually. You can combine them in pretty much any way that you like.

 

 

You can do 2-4 channels. Some have the blue, royal and cyan on one, violets on second, whites/lime on third. All depends on you.

-Dave

Thanks Dave and Ben,

but I have to ask further (sorry I'm not an electrician and feel unsure).

 

If I want to have four channels as described some post before, I have only to wire/ solder the +/- connections

- White

- Royal Blue

- UV

- Cyan & Blue

and ignore connection JWW1, JWW2, JBB1, JBB2?

 

Thanks,

Gerd

post-84858-0-37225200-1424261115_thumb.jpg

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jedimasterben

 

 

Thanks Dave and Ben,

but I have to ask further (sorry I'm not an electrician and feel unsure).

 

If I want to have four channels as described some post before, I have only to wire/ solder the +/- connections

- White

- Royal Blue

- UV

- Cyan & Blue

and ignore connection JWW1, JWW2, JBB1, JBB2?

 

Thanks,

Gerd

Correct, just wire them up as they are, no jumpers needed :)

IMG_0684.jpg

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Thanks Dave and Ben,

but I have to ask further (sorry I'm not an electrician and feel unsure).

 

If I want to have four channels as described some post before, I have only to wire/ solder the +/- connections

- White

- Royal Blue

- UV

- Cyan & Blue

and ignore connection JWW1, JWW2, JBB1, JBB2?

 

Thanks,

Gerd

Like Ben said, no need for jumpers. The jumpers are only there for combining channels.

-Dave

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jedimasterben

What's the size on these? I hate spill and I'm wondering if it's feasible to slap a brooke reflector (or other reflector) over these.

You'd have to make something custom or find something that works. The LEDs occupy an approximate 1.25"x1.25" square. If you can find lenses that fit over square CoB LEDs one might fit.

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I'm interested in getting a nano box because they are hand crafted in murica and it would match my picO that's hand crafted in murica. I'm curious about the color blending though. I love the kessil because you can't see the individual colors in the tank. How comparable is the blending from the nano box chips?

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I'm interested in getting a nano box because they are hand crafted in murica and it would match my picO that's hand crafted in murica. I'm curious about the color blending though. I love the kessil because you can't see the individual colors in the tank. How comparable is the blending from the nano box chips?

It is hardly noticeable if any.

-Dave

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jedimasterben

I'm interested in getting a nano box because they are hand crafted in murica and it would match my picO that's hand crafted in murica. I'm curious about the color blending though. I love the kessil because you can't see the individual colors in the tank. How comparable is the blending from the nano box chips?

Once I can get the rest of the bits and bobs in for my retro, I was planning on taking some video with it to show how little there is. I've also got a new piece of glass to replace the acrylic splash shield in my Sunpower that I've attached a good quality low-loss diffuser sheet to and will make a comparison of them.

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You'd have to make something custom or find something that works. The LEDs occupy an approximate 1.25"x1.25" square. If you can find lenses that fit over square CoB LEDs one might fit.

Hello Ben,

what would you think?

Could this lenses help to penetrate more then 30 inches of depth?

For instance:

http://www.kingbrite.cn/products.php?BigID=258&SubId=278

 

Question is, which de facto lens diameter is necessary for the 1.25''x1.25'' surface of the Nano Box V3 cluster?

 

Tjanks,

Gerd

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Hello Ben,

what would you think?

Could this lenses help to penetrate more then 30 inches of depth?

For instance:

http://www.kingbrite.cn/products.php?BigID=258&SubId=278

 

Question is, which de facto lens diameter is necessary for the 1.25''x1.25'' surface of the Nano Box V3 cluster?

 

Tjanks,

Gerd

The reason I would be worried about putting a lens is the design. If installed incorrectly you have a chance to damage the LEDs or optic like those.

-Dave

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jedimasterben

Hello Ben,

what would you think?

Could this lenses help to penetrate more then 30 inches of depth?

For instance:

http://www.kingbrite.cn/products.php?BigID=258&SubId=278

 

Question is, which de facto lens diameter is necessary for the 1.25''x1.25'' surface of the Nano Box V3 cluster?

 

Tjanks,

Gerd

You'd need to find something square, not round, otherwise the lens will interfere with the solder pads for the wiring.

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Yes,

you are right. Small idea is to have a little distance between LED cluster/ alu profil and the lense, in order to have some air circulation between it. Something like in the attached picture.

post-84858-0-50956800-1424355982_thumb.jpg

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jedimasterben

Yes,

you are right. Small idea is to have a little distance between LED cluster/ alu profil and the lense, in order to have some air circulation between it. Something like in the attached picture.

I wouldn't be worried about the radiant heat that would be inside lens profile, almost all of the heat is sent up into the heatsink by the LED.

 

That being said, I would definitely recommend just a reflector and not an actual lens so that it is open on the top.

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These things are so badass, I love how far LED technology has come even in the short time I've been in the hobby. Dave, I love my pucks.

 

IMG_20150220_174051872_zps0c69634b.jpg

 

Quick question, not a fan of how all the LEDs don't sit on the heatsink, due to it being a Tslot heatsink, would it be alright to screw the puck to a piece of aluminum, then screw the whole thing to the heatsink?

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