jedimasterben Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Please excuse my ignorence but when an led is "bin picked" is it chosen for efficiency/spectrum/output etc? They are separated into bins by the factory depending on their dominant wavelength, forward voltage (which determines their efficiency), and output. Link to comment
metrokat Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Went from really shitty bins to really good bins. Still not UV, though, pet peeve I thought UV could/will fry a coral? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 I thought UV could/will fry a coral? It can and does, and that's why they aren't UV. Link to comment
Chris155hp Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks! My tide is on its way to get upgraded. Money sent via PayPal Link to comment
mcblablabla Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Hello Dave (or Ben), for what reason are there the connectors named: JWV1 JWV2 JBB1 JBB2 Thanks for your answers, Gerd Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 They are jumpers to easily combine channels since the default NBR fixtures are only two channel. Link to comment
mcblablabla Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 They are jumpers to easily combine channels since the default NBR fixtures are only two channel. Ah, in which way do I have to connect them, in order to have the channel combination mentioned in post 56 http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/page-3#entry4944958 ? Are there other useful combination possible? Thanks, Gerd Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ah, in which way do I have to connect them, in order to have the channel combination mentioned in post 56 http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/page-3#entry4944958 ? Are there other useful combination possible? Thanks, Gerd You can do 2-4 channels. Some have the blue, royal and cyan on one, violets on second, whites/lime on third. All depends on you. -Dave Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ah, in which way do I have to connect them, in order to have the channel combination mentioned in post 56 http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/page-3#entry4944958 ? Are there other useful combination possible? Thanks, Gerd None of those are combinations, those are the four channels wired up individually. You can combine them in pretty much any way that you like. Link to comment
Pilg0re Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Very excited to compare this new array against the older array in my tide! Link to comment
mcblablabla Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 None of those are combinations, those are the four channels wired up individually. You can combine them in pretty much any way that you like. You can do 2-4 channels. Some have the blue, royal and cyan on one, violets on second, whites/lime on third. All depends on you. -Dave Thanks Dave and Ben, but I have to ask further (sorry I'm not an electrician and feel unsure). If I want to have four channels as described some post before, I have only to wire/ solder the +/- connections - White - Royal Blue - UV - Cyan & Blue and ignore connection JWW1, JWW2, JBB1, JBB2? Thanks, Gerd Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks Dave and Ben, but I have to ask further (sorry I'm not an electrician and feel unsure). If I want to have four channels as described some post before, I have only to wire/ solder the +/- connections - White - Royal Blue - UV - Cyan & Blue and ignore connection JWW1, JWW2, JBB1, JBB2? Thanks, Gerd Correct, just wire them up as they are, no jumpers needed Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks Dave and Ben, but I have to ask further (sorry I'm not an electrician and feel unsure). If I want to have four channels as described some post before, I have only to wire/ solder the +/- connections - White - Royal Blue - UV - Cyan & Blue and ignore connection JWW1, JWW2, JBB1, JBB2? Thanks, Gerd Like Ben said, no need for jumpers. The jumpers are only there for combining channels. -Dave Link to comment
xmas_one Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 What's the size on these? I hate spill and I'm wondering if it's feasible to slap a brooke reflector (or other reflector) over these. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Won't fit. I've played around with it as well. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 What's the size on these? I hate spill and I'm wondering if it's feasible to slap a brooke reflector (or other reflector) over these. You'd have to make something custom or find something that works. The LEDs occupy an approximate 1.25"x1.25" square. If you can find lenses that fit over square CoB LEDs one might fit. Link to comment
Eisernes Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 I'm interested in getting a nano box because they are hand crafted in murica and it would match my picO that's hand crafted in murica. I'm curious about the color blending though. I love the kessil because you can't see the individual colors in the tank. How comparable is the blending from the nano box chips? Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I'm interested in getting a nano box because they are hand crafted in murica and it would match my picO that's hand crafted in murica. I'm curious about the color blending though. I love the kessil because you can't see the individual colors in the tank. How comparable is the blending from the nano box chips? It is hardly noticeable if any. -Dave Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 I'm interested in getting a nano box because they are hand crafted in murica and it would match my picO that's hand crafted in murica. I'm curious about the color blending though. I love the kessil because you can't see the individual colors in the tank. How comparable is the blending from the nano box chips? Once I can get the rest of the bits and bobs in for my retro, I was planning on taking some video with it to show how little there is. I've also got a new piece of glass to replace the acrylic splash shield in my Sunpower that I've attached a good quality low-loss diffuser sheet to and will make a comparison of them. Link to comment
mcblablabla Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 You'd have to make something custom or find something that works. The LEDs occupy an approximate 1.25"x1.25" square. If you can find lenses that fit over square CoB LEDs one might fit. Hello Ben, what would you think? Could this lenses help to penetrate more then 30 inches of depth? For instance: http://www.kingbrite.cn/products.php?BigID=258&SubId=278 Question is, which de facto lens diameter is necessary for the 1.25''x1.25'' surface of the Nano Box V3 cluster? Tjanks, Gerd Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Hello Ben, what would you think? Could this lenses help to penetrate more then 30 inches of depth? For instance: http://www.kingbrite.cn/products.php?BigID=258&SubId=278 Question is, which de facto lens diameter is necessary for the 1.25''x1.25'' surface of the Nano Box V3 cluster? Tjanks, Gerd The reason I would be worried about putting a lens is the design. If installed incorrectly you have a chance to damage the LEDs or optic like those. -Dave Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Hello Ben, what would you think? Could this lenses help to penetrate more then 30 inches of depth? For instance: http://www.kingbrite.cn/products.php?BigID=258&SubId=278 Question is, which de facto lens diameter is necessary for the 1.25''x1.25'' surface of the Nano Box V3 cluster? Tjanks, Gerd You'd need to find something square, not round, otherwise the lens will interfere with the solder pads for the wiring. Link to comment
mcblablabla Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Yes, you are right. Small idea is to have a little distance between LED cluster/ alu profil and the lense, in order to have some air circulation between it. Something like in the attached picture. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Yes, you are right. Small idea is to have a little distance between LED cluster/ alu profil and the lense, in order to have some air circulation between it. Something like in the attached picture. I wouldn't be worried about the radiant heat that would be inside lens profile, almost all of the heat is sent up into the heatsink by the LED. That being said, I would definitely recommend just a reflector and not an actual lens so that it is open on the top. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 These things are so badass, I love how far LED technology has come even in the short time I've been in the hobby. Dave, I love my pucks. Quick question, not a fan of how all the LEDs don't sit on the heatsink, due to it being a Tslot heatsink, would it be alright to screw the puck to a piece of aluminum, then screw the whole thing to the heatsink? Link to comment
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