yman182 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Check your flow, should be 75 US Gallons per hour. I would hold off dosing Xtra, CV, CB, and AAHC until the nutrients are lower and all corals start to lighten. Stick with the basics, Coral Snow, Biomate, ZEObak, Start3, Stylo-Pocci, KB, BB for now. Do not dose iodine if you are doing so as long as you have cyanobacteria. It is running at 75GPH. Tested this by timing the amount of water that is pushed out in 10 seconds. 1 Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Finally figured out my zeovit issue; I changed out my chloramine setup and with in a few weeks my tank is 100% better. I also run 50% of the recommend start3 and found this to be optimal. So I am dosing B-bal, Xtra, Cv, AAHC along with SP LPSAA, what should be the next product to try to help get colors out of my setup? Also wanted to say LPSAA has really helped my acans and torch coral perk up. Coral Booster would be worth trying. Quote Link to comment
Jstn Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Thanks, what results have you seen from coral booster? Also I have recently noticed with the increase of growth my K has dropped quite fast, is this a normal occurrence? In addition, I am looking at additional 4 head doser, for K and Mg, could I mix lets say Xtra, B-bal and Cb into the same container and dose it via pump? 1 Quote Link to comment
AJ_Tsin Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 So lets talk dosers for a sec. I am considering adding a dosing system of some sort for stability. I have an Apex system and I am torn between a Dosing unit that is standalone, a dosing unit that can be controlled by Apex, or a EB4 and 4 BRS Dosers fully controlled by Apex. I would want to be dosing CA, Alk, Mg, and Start3 so 4 Pumps are a must. What do you guys thing what are you using etc. etc. I wonder if Neptune will ever make dosers for the APEX Welp that response from Neptune was quick. Looks like I will be getting 2x of these: http://www.neptunesystems.com/dos/ 1 Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Thanks, what results have you seen from coral booster? Also I have recently noticed with the increase of growth my K has dropped quite fast, is this a normal occurrence? In addition, I am looking at additional 4 head doser, for K and Mg, could I mix lets say Xtra, B-bal and Cb into the same container and dose it via pump? Sorry for the delayed response, I see mostly colour enhancement from CB. Yes, corals use K, but so do bacteria and other organisms. Dosing Xtra is possible but I do not recommend BB or CB. BB needs to be shaken lightly before use and CB/BB is generally added in small amounts twice a week, not worth dedicating a doser to those additives IMO. I use my 4 pump for ALK, Ca, Mg, ZeoStart3 (diluted). Quote Link to comment
Dramad1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Curious if anyone has had issues with the lil blue bottles eye droppers rubber top ripping off from the screw top. I just ripped a second one off by accident. Sucks. Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Curious if anyone has had issues with the lil blue bottles eye droppers rubber top ripping off from the screw top. I just ripped a second one off by accident. Sucks. Never heard of this. Do you have any pictures. Quote Link to comment
Dramad1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Give me a minute and I will post some Quote Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I've realized the top on my CV bottle feels like it's going to come off,hopefully it does -__- Quote Link to comment
Dramad1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Here you go.... I actually removed the saran wrap and put the dropper in from under the cap and then tightened down the cap and it seems to be holding. Maybe im just dumb and this is how it is supposed to be done after opening. This has only happened to my small 10ml bottles. I have since upgraded to the larger bottles and havent had an issue. Another pic of the other bottle. sponge power and phols extra where the 2. Quote Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Ummm,I don't think so,both of my SP and Phols have the dropper attached to the cap. Quote Link to comment
Dramad1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 All I did was twist the lid open and went to grab the dropper and it came right off. What the hey mang Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Sounds like the glass portion (pipet) is not pushed far enough into the bulb, the bulb should then be pulled up through the lid. If this is done the bulb will not become detached from the pipet and lid. Your picture shows the bulb being detached from the pipet and not torn. These are well made dropper bottles, some of the best I have seen. First: Insert the pipet into the bulb until it locks into place. Next: Push the bulb up through the hole in the lid. Next: pull the bulb up further so it locks into place. If you are doing this with ZEObak or Biomate, it might be a good idea to sterilize the pipet dropper if it has been handled by your hands to avoid contamination. Quote Link to comment
Dramad1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Sounds like the glass portion (pipet) is not pushed far enough into the bulb, the bulb should then be pulled up through the lid. If this is done the bulb will not become detached from the pipet and lid. Your picture shows the bulb being detached from the pipet and not torn. These are well made dropper bottles, some of the best I have seen. First: Insert the pipet into the bulb until it locks into place. Next: Push the bulb up through the hole in the lid. Next: pull the bulb up further so it locks into place. If you are doing this with ZEObak or Biomate, it might be a good idea to sterilize the pipet dropper if it has been handled by your hands to avoid contamination. Yep seems like I have had it wrong this whole time. I never removed the bulb from the cap an stuck the bulb up through the cap from the bottom. When I received my lil bottles the bulb was attached to the top of the cap and was not pushed up through the bottom. I have fixed and attached the bulb the way you described and it works great, no leaks. Im surprised the bulb has held on for so long just sitting on top of the cap like it was. Why dont they just insert the bulb from underneath the cap from the get go. Quote Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 While chasing down info on nitrospira bacteria I found out that nitrospira 'consumes' pyruvate but not acetate. And that pyruvate smells like vinegar. Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 While chasing down info on nitrospira bacteria I found out that nitrospira 'consumes' pyruvate but not acetate. And that pyruvate smells like vinegar. I thought nitrospira bacteria live in soil and marine environments, they are responsible for the second stage of the nitrogen cycle, they oxidize nitrite to nitrate. They are only one of 4 major bacteria found in marine environments and not as prevalent as nitrobacter and nitrococcus from my understanding. All these bacteria, the ones that oxidize nitrite to nitrate are anaerobic and heterotrophic. Do you have article you read this in, I am interested to read if this is limited to nitrospira exclusively or all the heterotrophs. Look at the similarity of these molecules... Pyruvic Acid: CH3COCOOH Acetic Acid: CH3COOH Vinegar: CH3COOH Pyruvic acid supplies energy to living cells through the citric acid cycle (also known as the Krebs cycle) when oxygen is present (aerobic respiration), and alternatively ferments to produce lactate when oxygen is lacking (fermentation). - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyruvic_acid Quote Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 https://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Nitrospira All these bacteria, the ones that oxidize nitrite to nitrate are anaerobic and heterotrophic. Facultative anaerobe? Otherwise wet dry filters would not work, and they do. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Facultative_anaerobic_organism 1 Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 https://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Nitrospira Facultative anaerobe? Otherwise wet dry filters would not work, and they do. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Facultative_anaerobic_organism I guess I was thinking more denitrification (group heterotrophic facultative anaerobic bacteria), the reduction of NO3 to N2. So they can make ATP in aerobic and anaerobic environments but I thought they could only convert NO3 to N2 in an anoxic environment. Quote Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I got the nano power package to try out for new tank from LFS and was wondering about Purigen. Some people will say it's ok to run and others will say no but I am not running the full zeovit system and just additives. While tank has been cycling I have been dosing 1 drop of sponge power per day on ~39g net volume. The purigen is in the bottom chamber of my Tunze 9004 skimmer. Quote Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I guess I was thinking more denitrification (group heterotrophic facultative anaerobic bacteria), the reduction of NO3 to N2. So they can make ATP in aerobic and anaerobic environments but I thought they could only convert NO3 to N2 in an anoxic environment. What Im thinking is that there is a LOT more research to be done. Dr Tim is the nitrospira guy, thats whats in his bottles. And IOs BioSpira (duh). I mention that pyruvate smells like vinegar, because all the KZ "food" bottles I have have a vinegar smell. And may be an ingredient in some of them. There are some hypotheses floating around that denitrification is occuring in hypoxic zones rather than anoxic zones. Which is plausible, and very much worth further investigation. 1 Quote Link to comment
ouling Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I like to join this thread. My tank is like a poster child for pale coral due to low nutrients. I just bought a half doze of Zeovit additives that's suppose to cure this ailment. I will keep you guys updated. Quote Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 How do you keep those nems fed and still have ultra low nutrients. Ive given up on the idea of a mixed reef. Im going hard and SPS clean eaters with Zeo in one tank. Clams and messy eaters in a second non-Zeo. I dont know what poster you have, your corals have good nonZeo looking coloration from the few pics you have up. Definitely not easter egg look. Quote Link to comment
ouling Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 The nemone is moved out of the tank now. I just few a large dendro colony that I feed quite often. Most coral's color fade after a few months in my tank. 1 Quote Link to comment
NanoTopia Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 The nemone is moved out of the tank now. I just few a large dendro colony that I feed quite often. Most coral's color fade after a few months in my tank. Cross check your salinity and potassium levels. Quote Link to comment
ouling Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Done. I have a two refractometers and I dose potato and bananas. It's the nutrients. Phosphate is at 0.00 from Hanna. Nitrate at 0.0 . My skimmer and water change wins. I guess I have an ULNS without the stupid zeo rocks and the reactor. I just got myself some additives from Zeovit and I think it's going to solve all my tank problems. YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
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