Hexadron's Nitoralis [Retired]

[eitallent]

Mine came in a couple days ago, and the box actually had a warning against bending the power cable near the base of the light. It appears that this is a problem they are aware of, but simply added a warning instead of fixing the defect.

 

So far the light output of the light is strong, I definitely wouldn't want a second one. However, it remains to be seen whether it positively affects growth. I definitely wouldn't put more than one per compartment in your tank JDH.

 

I saw the warning and was careful and it still allowed condensation into the dome protecting the bulb. It may help to put silicone on the wire leading into the rubber stopper to help it stay water proof.

 

It grew chaeto for me. It was extremely bright. I had it in a 2 gallon fuge.

[Tripwyr]

I saw the warning and was careful and it still allowed condensation into the dome protecting the bulb. It may help to put silicone on the wire leading into the rubber stopper to help it stay water proof.

 

It grew chaeto for me. It was extremely bright. I had it in a 2 gallon fuge.

 

My fuge is 1.5 gallons, so I hope it works as well. My ball is small right now, so I likely won't be trimming it for a while. I'll keep an eye on the seal.

[Hexadron]

I definitely wouldn't put more than one per compartment in your tank JDH.

 

I saw the warning and was careful and it still allowed condensation into the dome protecting the bulb. It may help to put silicone on the wire leading into the rubber stopper to help it stay water proof.

 

It grew chaeto for me. It was extremely bright. I had it in a 2 gallon fuge.

 

My fuge is 1.5 gallons, so I hope it works as well. My ball is small right now, so I likely won't be trimming it for a while. I'll keep an eye on the seal.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys, I have been thinking about it, and have for now anyways, decided against the chaeto. I think with the space I have left in my chamber, it would be adequate room for tumbling action and for the chaeto to thrive.

 

---

 

In other news, BIG BUMMER TODAY.

 

So I headed down to one of my LFS called Aquarium Illusions. Well at least they have the name right, it was definitely an Illusion that this would be a good LFS. Last time I went there was nearly a year ago, and they had an amazing selection of fish, inverts and coral. Well I went today and nearly half of their already limited selection of fish has some form of itch, marine velvet or other disease. I counted three deas fish, one Chromis which must have been decomposing for nearly a week, and also a poor clownfish that was lying on the sand bed barely moving. Not a F*** could be given by the staff.

 

They didn't have any Tail Spot Blenny's, not that I would buy any from them anyways, as their husbandry skills are less than acceptable.

 

I was also thinking of putting in a small piece of quality Liverock for some diversified bacteria and some nice coralline, to get that started, as my white rocks are pretty boring as of now. Their so-called "Liverock" was brown as dirt and had no life except tons of aiptasia all over, and every type of brown algae and diatoms as you could imagine.

 

Coral selection was actually pretty good, but I refuse to shop at a place that leaves their animals in states like that.

 

So ya, today did not turn out how I expected it to. AT ALL.

[Deckoz2302]

That's always disappointing. Maybe another lfs?

[Hexadron]

Well there is one that I really like called Marina Aquaria. They are a bit further out of my way, but worth it. They are a smaller store, but I suppose you could say more "Boutique" style. They don't have a very large selection, but their livestock is always healthy, and frags are always larger too!

 

I think I will order my fish with them.

 

As for corals, I will be ordering online. I'm not going to mess around, and do a larger order all at once. I found a really great supplier (which I will keep secret for now - Canada only, don't worry) and have selected a few beautiful pieces. I just have to wait for my Par38 lamp from LEDTRiC to get here to pull the trigger.

 

Ever seem these guys before?

 

[Deleted User 4]

Yeah, but not with your photography.

[Hexadron]

Yeah, but not with your photography.

 

Haha, well hopefully soon

[Deleted User 4]

Hey Jordon, does the dust get trapped easily within the multiple lining dividers of the wings (Razor)?

 

And if it does, is it reachable to clean the 99.9% of the collected dust off?

 

I want the ending result to be clean like new ahha.

[Hexadron]

Hey Jordon, does the dust get trapped easily within the multiple lining dividers of the wings (Razor)?

 

And if it does, is it reachable to clean the 99.9% of the collected dust off?

 

I want the ending result to be clean like new ahha.

 

I always wipe mine down every week with a microfiber cloth (lint free) If I notice there is any dust in the heatsink area, I have a can or compressed air I just blow if off with. In Alberta it is very dry, and can get very dusty, and I don't find it a problem at all. I like my stuff like new too!

 

To be honest, the dust you see in the pics is not noticible in real at all, and the heatsink being aluminium has almost a sparkly-ness (real word?) to it, so it reflects light from the flash too.

[Deleted User 4]

Yeah. Little dust like that in the picture doesn't bother me much...lol.

 

I like to keep my things new too...weird but that's how it was for the past year.

My ai nano sol/controller and ada still looks brand new haha.

 

But I'm sort of disliking the ai mount being too high. I noticed the nano razor mount isn't two arms which is appealing to my style.

Also the nano razor has the lever to adjust its height and length measures... to accommodate with nano long tanks like mine for instance.

 

And now that I have your assurance of the razor's easy maintenance staying clean and new for years, I see a huge chance of myself switching out the ai nano sol for a nano razor. I still like the ai nano sol don't get me wrong, but just don't like the mounting options for the tank, despite it being hanged. Also, ai nano sol would need a wireless adapter for it to operate with one wire only, whereas the razor is just as sufficient with one wire.

 

The ai nano sol has much more features and all, but the likeliness of myself using the extra sexy features are rare. I just need to figure out how big the nano razor is...hopefully it's not too wide because I plan to mount it on the side of my ada like the nano sol is right now.

[Hexadron]

Check for Razor Nano dimensions here

 

I know what you mean. I was nearly 100% sure that I was going with the Vega, and I do love the extra features, even though they may wear thin after a while, but for the price (for me anyways) I was a bit bummed by all the "extras" you had to buy to unlock those features, and the hanging kit/mounting arm (EXT Rail system) was less than stellar and another cost associated well. That and the constant delays at AI kind of had me looking elsewhere.

 

It's not so much the fixtures, which I do like, but how they run the company and seem to "nickel and dime" their customers to death.

 

I'm happy to report that I really like my purchase so far of the Razor though. No regrets Full Spectrum is an added bonus.

 

Good luck with your decision. I know it's tough to narrow it down!

[Deleted User 4]

Ahh, it's wider than my tank dimensions...razor being 10.5" and my ada 45p being 9.5"....sucks!

But I like the fact that it's adjustable from 9.8" to 15.7" on the length.

The height can be at 3.5" which is much shorter than the 5.5" mount for the nano sol...

 

Hmm going to just buy one to see if it fits well or not, and if it doesn't, then I will just have to start another ada

Cubish one, doubt it would have enough spread for a 60p (long tank).

 

Yupp, and you're right about the whole nano led consensus.

[Hexadron]

My tank length is 20" but the Razor 120 is 20.5" in length, but isn't even noticeable.

 

In your case it's only 0.5" per side. I would give it a shot if that's what you want. Will you ever mount it to the ceiling, or are the legs your only option?

[Red_Blenny]

Ever seem these guys before?

 

 

Those Space Monsters are sweet. Can't wait to see you fill up your tank.

[Deleted User 4]

My tank length is 20" but the Razor 120 is 20.5" in length, but isn't even noticeable.

 

In your case it's only 0.5" per side. I would give it a shot if that's what you want. Will you ever mount it to the ceiling, or are the legs your only option?

 

Legs are the only option for this current house that I live in...

 

But definitely I would consider hanging it ever when I move to a permanent small new house. Lol I like everything new to stay new.

 

 

Btw, what happened to your old Nitoralis title?

[Hexadron]

Those Space Monsters are sweet. Can't wait to see you fill up your tank.

 

They are so expensive though, but I am really picky when it comes to Zoas I am not drawn to the price or rareness factor, but they are pretty sweet!

 

I can't wait either. I must be cursed though. First with my fish store, and now it seems the LEDTRiC Par38 bulb I ordered may be lost... There have been no updates for 9 days now on the tracking. I emailed their support to see what can be done, but without the fixture, I can't QT any corals. My only other option is to take the Razor off of my main tank, and move it to the QT for the time being.

 

I am having the worst luck as of late.

 

Legs are the only option for this current house that I live in...

 

But definitely I would consider hanging it ever when I move to a permanent small new house. Lol I like everything new to stay new.

 

Btw, what happened to your old Nitoralis title?

 

I am renting right now, but though, screw it! I am living here, and I can always patch up the holes. I understand if you are planning to move soon. Mounting on the ceiling looks so great if done right. Just clean and, I love the floating look without the brackets.

 

What do you mean about the title? It's been the same since day 1?

[Deleted User 4]

Ummm I remember the "o" was a huge dot. And there wasn't "by jdh"

 

Yeah, there's alot of stucco on the ceiling too which makes it hard for me to want to hang it also.

[Red_Blenny]

They are so expensive though, but I am really picky when it comes to Zoas I am not drawn to the price or rareness factor, but they are pretty sweet!

 

I can't wait either. I must be cursed though. First with my fish store, and now it seems the LEDTRiC Par38 bulb I ordered may be lost... There have been no updates for 9 days now on the tracking. I emailed their support to see what can be done, but without the fixture, I can't QT any corals. My only other option is to take the Razor off of my main tank, and move it to the QT for the time being.

 

I thought Space Monsters was pretty crazy but then I discovered Blue Rhinos and ever since then, I put Space Monsters on the bottom of the list. There's an LFS down in Socal and the owner sells the Blue Rhinos for like $30pp or $20pp if you buy 2+.

 

Ouch, I hope you find your Par38. Sometimes, I find 'delays' a blessing because it holds off my 'impulse buying frenzy' and it forces to be patient about getting the livestock. That money that was put on 'hold' usually ends up to a nice coral piece (like those Ricordeas I bought off from IllustrioSolo back then lol).

[Hexadron]

Well as i mentioned no Par38 delivered today. Mike from LEDTRiC is looking into the issue for me.

I did get three other orders in today! So just to recap a few odds and ends of what I received today:

• Eshopps Straight Frag Rack (Black) - for the Coral QT
• RPS ALL OUT Coral Dip - for dipping corals - Coral QT
• 2x 2.5g food grade containers for RO/DI storage - Perfect for water changes!
• Kent Marine Pro-Scraper II Extendable Glass or Acrylic Cleaning Tool (16-24 Inch) - No more hands in the tank!
• Fauna Marin Ultra Wakame+ - Good variety for herbivores
• Fauna Marin Ultra Power Phos - Can't wait to try it out, or will I even have to...

Most exciting is the arrival of my new family of Hanna checkers!

Hanna Instruments Phosphorus Ultra Low Range Checker HI736
Hanna Instruments Alkalinity Checker HI755
Hanna Instruments Calcium Checker HI758

I had a chance to use them, and all are fairly straight forward. I watched the videos on YouTube from HannaInst and it couldn't be simpler!

Here are the results - My water was changed exactly a week ago:

Ca - 427 (seems about right, i'll test again after fresh water change)
dKH - 6.4 (a tad low, but i'm not dosing, and have more research to do anyways...)
PO4 - 0.03 (exactly what I was looking for!)

Okay with those posted here are some conclusions about my measurements:

1. Calcium is a little lower than I would like, but perfectly acceptable for now.
2. Alkalinity (dKH) is low from what I am seeing, but to be honest, I am not very well educated in this value as of yet, so more research to be done there (I appreciate tips though!)
3. PO4 is where I want it to be. I'm glad it's not through the roof, as I was worried my BRS rock or CariobSea sand may be leaching it out. This seems like a good value for SPS. Hopefully it can be maintained.

 

---

 

As for my experiences with the Hanna Checkers, they work just fine. they are simple to use, BUT the only thing that pisses me off is those damn powder reagents! They are very easy to spill, but hard as hell to get that little funnel you see on the videos. I have fairly small hands and I feel like a gorilla trying to use those things! I don't understand why they don't use those small tubes (you know you see the sugar in them at restaurants) as you could easily put them to the edge of the curvette and pour just like that.

 

Phosphorus is a dream to use (besides the stupid reagents)

 

Alkalinity was fairly easy, with one reagent power pack and a liquid

 

Calcium had a bit more to it, but worked fine. Please note, I am using my own RO/DI for this test. I cannot find any "Lab Grade" RO/DI for the life of me in Canada, and honestly don't think I need to. My unit is brand new, and my TDS to begin with is in the low 100's. Not everyone can be as lucky, but this seems to work fine for me.

 

I will experiment more with each of these as time passes. I plan to test freshly mixed saltwater (vs target values posted on the salt package), then a fresh water change (water from tank) afterwards to see how consistent it is.

[Mstefa1]

Jordon, what salt are you using? Low Alk when you don't have anything in your tank to consume it would be a result of your salt. Try testing freshly mixed saltwater and compare the result. There should be nothing consuming the Alk if you don't have any corals in your tank. Additionally, you would be realizing a low PH as a result (although a symptom of the problem as you should not chase PH).

 

For comparison, on my fully stocked tank, I need to dose a minimum amount of Ca, however I have to constantly dose Alk.

 

How are you storing your cuvettes? I keep my wet by storing full of RODI. I would imagine the slightest buildup or stain on the glass would influence the reading.

[Mstefa1]

I'd also like to inquire about your cost / test, after your initial investment in the Hanna Checkers. It would seam that the Alk & Phosphorous tests run about $0.36-$0.45 / test however the Ca would cost around $1 / test. This compared with a titration test kit averaging under $25 for 50-100 tests. Of course these are costs in the states so your actual cost is probably different. Note that this is based on the cost of reagents which doesn't even include the initial investment of purchasing the colorimeter.

[Hexadron]

Jordon, what salt are you using? Low Alk when you don't have anything in your tank to consume it would be a result of your salt. Try testing freshly mixed saltwater and compare the result. There should be nothing consuming the Alk if you don't have any corals in your tank. Additionally, you would be realizing a low PH as a result (although a symptom of the problem as you should not chase PH).

 

For comparison, on my fully stocked tank, I need to dose a minimum amount of Ca, however I have to constantly dose Alk.

 

How are you storing your cuvettes? I keep my wet by storing full of RODI. I would imagine the slightest buildup or stain on the glass would influence the reading.

 

I am using Fluval SEA Pro Marine Salt. According to their label, target should be between 8.12dKH - 9.8dKH. It could very well be user error on my part, so I will be testing again when I make some Fresh salt.

 

I read a bunch of articles yesterday regarding Alkalinity and it's relation to Calcium, and to be honest, I am still confused as hell

 

I am also storing the curvettes this way as well. I rinse them thouroughly with very hot tap water, dry them off, then soak them in RO/DI, and then finally fill them with fresh RO/DI for storage. After some readings this seems to be what a lot of labs do as well.

 

I'd also like to inquire about your cost / test, after your initial investment in the Hanna Checkers. It would seam that the Alk & Phosphorous tests run about $0.36-$0.45 / test however the Ca would cost around $1 / test. This compared with a titration test kit averaging under $25 for 50-100 tests. Of course these are costs in the states so your actual cost is probably different. Note that this is based on the cost of reagents which doesn't even include the initial investment of purchasing the colorimeter.

 

Yup, it's not cheap. If my results are consistant, I will be happy. If not, I will be selling it most likely. In time I will pick up either a Red Sea Pro or ELOS Calcium test kit to compare as well.

[Mstefa1]

I am using Fluval SEA Pro Marine Salt. According to their label, target should be between 8.12dKH - 9.8dKH. It could very well be user error on my part, so I will be testing again when I make some Fresh salt.

 

I read a bunch of articles yesterday regarding Alkalinity and it's relation to Calcium, and to be honest, I am still confused as hell

 

I am also storing the curvettes this way as well. I rinse them thouroughly with very hot tap water, dry them off, then soak them in RO/DI, and then finally fill them with fresh RO/DI for storage. After some readings this seems to be what a lot of labs do as well.

 

 

Yup, it's not cheap. If my results are consistant, I will be happy. If not, I will be selling it most likely. In time I will pick up either a Red Sea Pro or ELOS Calcium test kit to compare as well.

 

Once your tank is established an you have a standard stocking, you will be able to predict your conditions with minimal testing. However until you get to that level testing often is a requirement because any necessary dosing will be dependent upon new frag purchases. For now, verifying the levels in freshly mixed saltwater and weekly water changes will be enough.

 

I'm concerned that there may be a lot of potential user influence with the Hanna Checkers. First, being it's well documented that it's difficult to get the reagent in the cuvette. And if your not getting a consistent amount of reagent in the cuvette, your result will be affected. Your test will also be affected by how you clean your cuvette, as well as finger prints on the glass. And finally, the amount of time that passed since you added the reagent appears to have a dramatic influence on the result which would be why the have the 3 minute timer that would abort the test if you took too long. Every time I retest a sample that had reagent added (as suggested by another member) the result is lower than the original test. Additionally, if you zero your meter with one cuvette and put the reagent in the other cuvette, manufacturing issues in the glass could affect the test result.

 

And given the high cost of performing the test I would be hesitant to perform a retest. Titration test are very easy and as long as you get the stuff into the vial the results are extremely reproducible. Not to mention the low cost of performing the test.

 

Also, I've read nothing but positives regarding the Alk Hanna Checker so I don't think you would have a problem with it.

 

I wouldn't bother with frag racks in your QT. Just toss on some eggcrate. Frag racks are great for display tanks but I don't think they are the best solution for a dedicated frag tank. It's easier to shape eggcrate to whatever form you desire.

[Hexadron]

Once your tank is established an you have a standard stocking, you will be able to predict your conditions with minimal testing. However until you get to that level testing often is a requirement because any necessary dosing will be dependent upon new frag purchases. For now, verifying the levels in freshly mixed saltwater and weekly water changes will be enough.

I'm not too concerned at this moment, as i'm sure rock doesn't need much to thrive Until my tank is stocked with corals anyways. I will probably need to dose occasionally, but I have some time to do thourough research before diving in to that.

I'm concerned that there may be a lot of potential user influence with the Hanna Checkers. First, being it's well documented that it's difficult to get the reagent in the cuvette. And if your not getting a consistent amount of reagent in the cuvette, your result will be affected. Your test will also be affected by how you clean your cuvette, as well as finger prints on the glass. And finally, the amount of time that passed since you added the reagent appears to have a dramatic influence on the result which would be why the have the 3 minute timer that would abort the test if you took too long. Every time I retest a sample that had reagent added (as suggested by another member) the result is lower than the original test. Additionally, if you zero your meter with one cuvette and put the reagent in the other cuvette, manufacturing issues in the glass could affect the test result.

I have to agree. The Phosphorus is the best kit though hands down. Just very simple. I use the same curvette, and wipe it down with a lint free cloth (just like the videos show) But there is quite a lot of room for user error.

And given the high cost of performing the test I would be hesitant to perform a retest. Titration test are very easy and as long as you get the stuff into the vial the results are extremely reproducible. Not to mention the low cost of performing the test.

Either way, I'll be picking up somme (mist likely) Red Sea test kits in the future.

I wouldn't bother with frag racks in your QT. Just toss on some eggcrate. Frag racks are great for display tanks but I don't think they are the best solution for a dedicated frag tank. It's easier to shape eggcrate to whatever form you desire.

Too late! I already have it in the tank I'll post some pics later though. It looks pretty sharp. I couldn't find eggcrate nearby, and to order it online was actually more expensive.

[Mstefa1]

If you ever need eggcrate, every home improvement store or light store should carry them. They are sold as light diffusers. Additionally, any reef store probably has some. Although they don't usually sell them if your a regular customer you should be able to get them to part with a piece for such as small tank.

 

Keep reading. Ca, Alk, 8 Mg need to be kept in balance. Often you may find that when Alk is low, Ca is high. Stony corals will consume more. If your having trouble sustaining Ca & Alk at the saturation levels you require then you need to test for Mg because that would be an indication of low Mg. Generally you won't need to test Mg as often unless you have a problem. I bet more people test for Mg as a result of Tech M dosing for bryopsis then anything else. BRS has a good video explaining it all.