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RollaJase's 30G Custom Cube - Tank Torn Down


RollaJase

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Not much has been happening lately to be honest Mark, just trying to save up and for my trip in a few weeks. Got a bit of a small update below though.

 

Thanks buddy, I was devastated when I crashed the car and it still pains me knowing there are still bits and pieces not quite right with it. I'm taking her in for a service on Friday and to get the front right shock looked at. I went for a 'spirited' drive the other night and found that when the front left shock was under a lot of load the front right shock/spring would make a scraping noise. I think the repairers didn't replace one of the spring seats and when the spring decompresses it shifts slightly causing noise. I hope it's just that anyway. I do like the BRZ, from a 'classier' perspective, it has an air of elegance about it compared to the aggressive look of the GT86/FR-S. Realistically our GT86 is basically the same as your FR-S with the exception of some trim pieces, the badge and some colour options. You could always just re-badge one ;).

 

I also owned a 1983 AE86 Levin Hatch for a few years, it was a project car more or less. I purchased it running and driving as a completely stripped shell with all of the trim pieces, body panels etc. packaged in boxes with it. It was an ADM delivered model so only had the single cam 4AC motor but I loved it all the same. I got it to the stage where all the rust had been removed and I needed to weld in some new metal but time and cash became an issue and I had to offload it. I'd love to import a mint Trueno from Japan one day but at this point in my life I need to be spending 15-20k on a home deposit, not a second car.

 

I could, but I really don't like the stripped down "ugly" Scion interior. Maybe if I found one at the right price! ;)

 

Mine was pretty much a project car too...but I did have the 4AGE though! B) Loved that car...so fun to drive. It too had problems I couldn't afford to keep up with at the time so it's gone. All the ones left here now are super jacked up in price...might as well look for the newer 86. :P From what one of my car buds in Aus tells me, grey market imports are about to get a lot cheaper for y'all since the import taxes are going to be lowered by a lot (if I'm understanding it correctly). You could have one yet! :)

 

Crazy cars at that wedding...I bet that was cool to see!

 

The top looks good...I'm diggin' the new additions. I am super jelly of those Aus prices for coral too....man oh man! :blink:

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I could, but I really don't like the stripped down "ugly" Scion interior. Maybe if I found one at the right price! ;)

 

Mine was pretty much a project car too...but I did have the 4AGE though! B) Loved that car...so fun to drive. It too had problems I couldn't afford to keep up with at the time so it's gone. All the ones left here now are super jacked up in price...might as well look for the newer 86. :P From what one of my car buds in Aus tells me, grey market imports are about to get a lot cheaper for y'all since the import taxes are going to be lowered by a lot (if I'm understanding it correctly). You could have one yet! :)

 

Crazy cars at that wedding...I bet that was cool to see!

 

The top looks good...I'm diggin' the new additions. I am super jelly of those Aus prices for coral too....man oh man! :blink:

We have two specs when it comes to the 86 over here. I have top spec so my interior is basically this:

http://eftm.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Toyota-86-GTS-interior.jpg

I though it was the same over there for you guys also? Either way you look at it though the BRZ has the nicest interior.

 

Yep we are having a big shake up in our domestic car market. Holden (GM, basically Chev) are ceasing production of anything on Aus soil, Ford are doing the same and so are Toyota. Once these players cease local production we should start to see some of the taxes on imported cars decrease. These taxes were put in place to make the domestic option more comparable on price to the imports. It worked when they were building good stuff locally but over the years everyone has moved to Jap and Euro cars. Big V8's are just too expensive to run at the end of the day I guess. I may be able to make the most of it get myself a mint AE86 from Japan, you never know. I would love to have a Panda 86 sitting in the garage next to my GT86.

 

The wedding was definitely an eye opener. They spent close to 100k on that wedding and it definitely showed.

 

I'm happy with the new additional also, about time I added a few new pieces. The top will serve its purpose for now. I'll look at replacing it when I get back from holiday.

 

Sorry to hear about your baby, man. Hopefully they can get her straightened out.....as she deserves! Nice score on that plate!

Thanks Jack, I'm hoping its not something serious with the car but we will wait and see i guess. I think that new plate is my new fave piece in the tank :D.

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We have two specs when it comes to the 86 over here. I have top spec so my interior is basically this:

http://eftm.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Toyota-86-GTS-interior.jpg

I though it was the same over there for you guys also? Either way you look at it though the BRZ has the nicest interior.

 

Yep we are having a big shake up in our domestic car market. Holden (GM, basically Chev) are ceasing production of anything on Aus soil, Ford are doing the same and so are Toyota. Once these players cease local production we should start to see some of the taxes on imported cars decrease. These taxes were put in place to make the domestic option more comparable on price to the imports. It worked when they were building good stuff locally but over the years everyone has moved to Jap and Euro cars. Big V8's are just too expensive to run at the end of the day I guess. I may be able to make the most of it get myself a mint AE86 from Japan, you never know. I would love to have a Panda 86 sitting in the garage next to my GT86.

 

The wedding was definitely an eye opener. They spent close to 100k on that wedding and it definitely showed.

 

I'm happy with the new additional also, about time I added a few new pieces. The top will serve its purpose for now. I'll look at replacing it when I get back from holiday.

 

Nah, for us, it's the bare bones FR-S (to keep the cost down). You pretty much have to get a BRZ if you want the nicer interior and goodies like HIDs. I do like the BRZ for that, despite the cost. Maybe I'm just getting old. :lol: My buddy has a WRB one I drove...good times!

 

Love Holdens and Aussie Fords...will be sad to see them go. Meanwhile, since you're suspension is screwy....go ahead and throw some nice coilovers on there... :naughtydance:

 

Send me some cheap corals! :haha:

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Nah, for us, it's the bare bones FR-S (to keep the cost down). You pretty much have to get a BRZ if you want the nicer interior and goodies like HIDs. I do like the BRZ for that, despite the cost. Maybe I'm just getting old. :lol: My buddy has a WRB one I drove...good times!

 

Love Holdens and Aussie Fords...will be sad to see them go. Meanwhile, since you're suspension is screwy....go ahead and throw some nice coilovers on there... :naughtydance:

 

Send me some cheap corals! :haha:

That seriously sucks dude. I can definitely see the attraction of the BRZ now. Over here it is the more expensive option also, very little difference compared to my 86 GTS though.

 

We will still have our 'Commodore' line I'm pretty sure, seeing as you can have it in the US under the Chev brand I think they will just end up importing them. Same as our Ford Falcon, our new 'Falcon' is your Ford Fusion. Not all bad news though, with the push to off shore manufacturing we will be getting the Ford Mustang in 2015 for our market and there is talk of Chev bringing over the Camaro also. People are even whispering Corvette will make its way into our market. There are quite a few people who import the high end American cars and do the right hand conversions on them so it would make sense for them to take that opportunity to bring them over.

 

Coils wont be on my list of upgrades but springs certainly are. I don't track the car so the cost outweighs the benefit for me I'm afraid. When I get back from America I'll be doing a full 2.5" stainless exhaust including extractors. I'll also import an Airaid induction kit from the states. Besides that I may look at a tune and will be doing some cosmetic upgrades (wheels, lip kit, some CF parts) and that will be all for this car. No point going for power unless I want to drop big money on a turbo/supercharger and if I look at the cost I may as well buy a factory turbo car or a V8.

 

Happy to send over some corals but I doubt they will show up alive ;).

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wow...$15 for that plate is crazy price! And I thought I got a steal with my $30 plate.

Due to the colour I was expecting the guys to say $40-$50 for that piece. If it were I would have walked away but at $15 I couldn't not take it home. My other two plates I got fairly cheap also, about $20 per plate.

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Tonight I installed my old Tunze 6015 under my overflow box pointing up through the gap between the overflow and the pillar in a hope of coaxing extra turbulence at the top of the pillar for SPS and to create more flow to the left of the pillar. The MP10 does its job at creating flow but IMO the spread of the Tunze is better and not to mention quieter then the MP10. I will probably look at purchasing a second MP10 and shoot them directly into each other from across the tank to make large turbulence at the surface while keeping the lower parts of the tank suitable for LPS and softies. Although I have become interested in the Jabao RW series powerheads lately, I might ditch the MP10 all together. I also mounted those two SPS pieces on the pillar and set my light to coral acclimation mode for 15 days with a 20% reduction of light. I have used this method before with good results.

 

After my trip I'll also be in the market for a new return pump and I'm open for suggestions. I have a 3/4" drain with another 3/4" backup. My current return pump doesn't have enough flow to create a full siphon on the drain and as a result I have had to dial the pump right back to make the noise bearable. I'm using 1/2" PVC for the return line and the pump has roughly 3 feet of head to contend with. I'm also wanting to be able to run my pair of reactors off of this return pump to eliminate a pump in my cramped sump.

 

So what return pump recommendations do people have for my requirements. I was thinking of something at roughly the 2500LPH range (660GPH). My current return pump is 1100LPH and my reactor pump is 600LPH (reactor pump is throttled 50%). I'm open to DC options also as I like the control and may be able to justify the cost.

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I'm only using a 900GPH return on my 150. I suppose 660 is good, but it seems a little high. Do you know what the skimmer prefers as far as turnover? Too fast and it might not do as well, the way I understand it. It's good to match the return rate with the skimmer pump rate. Even then a lot of experienced folks say just fast enough to ensure good surface skimming.

 

So in short, slower seems to be better. Now I'm wondering if my rate might be too high??? :)

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Love the plate! What a great bargin.

Thank you :).

 

I'm only using a 900GPH return on my 150. I suppose 660 is good, but it seems a little high. Do you know what the skimmer prefers as far as turnover? Too fast and it might not do as well, the way I understand it. It's good to match the return rate with the skimmer pump rate. Even then a lot of experienced folks say just fast enough to ensure good surface skimming.

 

So in short, slower seems to be better. Now I'm wondering if my rate might be too high??? :)

Hmm I'm not too sure what my Tunze 9004 prefers as turnover, the air capacity is approx 40GPH. I've been doing some reading and a 1" drain can handle up to 600GPH at full siphon, my guess would be a 3/4" would be close to 450-500GPH. I definitely need to get a more powerful pump, I just need to figure out how much flow I exactly need. Maybe even a 500GPH pump could handle the drain and the reactor.

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Slower is fine, you don't have to match the drain rate as it will regulate itself, unless I am missing something.

If the flow through the drain is too low though it will gurgle and that is something that I want to avoid (this is my current issue). I'll do some more research to find a flow range I can work with. Realistically I can throttle the pump down with a valve but would like to avoid that as much as possible.

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NorthGaHillbilly

 

If the flow through the drain is too low though it will gurgle and that is something that I want to avoid (this is my current issue). I'll do some more research to find a flow range I can work with. Realistically I can throttle the pump down with a valve but would like to avoid that as much as possible.

If you get an eheim or a sicce, and I'm sure others, you can adjust flow to some extent on the pump, limit it's intake as opposed to putting back pressure with a ball valve, I'm running my sicce 3.0 two clicks from full blast, prob 550 ish GPH

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If you get an eheim or a sicce, and I'm sure others, you can adjust flow to some extent on the pump, limit it's intake as opposed to putting back pressure with a ball valve, I'm running my sicce 3.0 two clicks from full blast, prob 550 ish GPH

Thanks for the input GA. I have looked at the Eheim and the Sicce options (also the Diablo and Tunze options). 2000LPH models seems pretty common any may suite my needs perfectly. A 2500LPH model would be preferable I think as it gives me a little room to grow. I always thought it was bad to restrict a pump on the inlet as it can starve the pump and create air pockets in some circumstances, a reason why I have always opted for a ball valve. I might start shortlisting some options...

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NorthGaHillbilly

Thanks for the input GA. I have looked at the Eheim and the Sicce options (also the Diablo and Tunze options). 2000LPH models seems pretty common any may suite my needs perfectly. A 2500LPH model would be preferable I think as it gives me a little room to grow. I always thought it was bad to restrict a pump on the inlet as it can starve the pump and create air pockets in some circumstances, a reason why I have always opted for a ball valve. I might start shortlisting some options...

LPH... come on man you talkin to a backwards American here :D

 

I cant say as to how retroing in a limiter on the input would work, but thats how the built in flow control works on the sicce, and the eheim as far as I can remember.

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jedimasterben

Never, ever, ever, ever decrease the intake size of a pump. Only valve the output - adding a valve is the same as adding head pressure, so it is perfectly safe.

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LPH... come on man you talkin to a backwards American here :D

 

I cant say as to how retroing in a limiter on the input would work, but thats how the built in flow control works on the sicce, and the eheim as far as I can remember.

Sorry, 530-660GPH :D.

As far as I am aware the factory reducers act like a tap to restrict how much water can enter the inlet nozzle. A lot of pumps have this feature, all my small reactor pumps do but I tend to just restrict the outlet.

 

Never, ever, ever, ever decrease the intake size of a pump. Only valve the output - adding a valve is the same as adding head pressure, so it is perfectly safe.

My thoughts exactly. I have spent enough time around pumps over the years to know the typical do's and don'ts. I always though it odd that pump manufacturers included the restriction on the inlet side when it comes to pond and aquarium pumps. Then again, on pumps with this little flow it may not be as big an issue compared to say a 2000-3000GPH pump. I'm no expert when it comes to how turbulent water or cavitation effects the internals of a pump.

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NorthGaHillbilly

Sorry, 530-660GPH :D.

As far as I am aware the factory reducers act like a tap to restrict how much water can enter the inlet nozzle. A lot of pumps have this feature, all my small reactor pumps do but I tend to just restrict the outlet.

 

My thoughts exactly. I have spent enough time around pumps over the years to know the typical do's and don'ts. I always though it odd that pump manufacturers included the restriction on the inlet side when it comes to pond and aquarium pumps. Then again, on pumps with this little flow it may not be as big an issue compared to say a 2000-3000GPH pump. I'm no expert when it comes to how turbulent water or cavitation effects the internals of a pump.

My bad if I wasn't clear, I was just saying that the built in control limited how much water it could pull in
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My bad if I wasn't clear, I was just saying that the built in control limited how much water it could pull in

No no I totally understand, I have a number of pumps that have the same sort of system from factory. This sort of flow restriction just goes completely against what I was taught, particularly when using bigger bore pumps. Personally I let these pumps run fully open and just restrict the outlet, same effect with less risk essentially. From a performance standpoint the manufacturer wouldn't include this feature if it could harm the pump's motor long term but better to be safe than sorry IMO.

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NorthGaHillbilly

 

No no I totally understand, I have a number of pumps that have the same sort of system from factory. This sort of flow restriction just goes completely against what I was taught, particularly when using bigger bore pumps. Personally I let these pumps run fully open and just restrict the outlet, same effect with less risk essentially. From a performance standpoint the manufacturer wouldn't include this feature if it could harm the pump's motor long term but better to be safe than sorry IMO.

got ya, now you've got me nervous, I might have to rebuild my manifold

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got ya, now you've got me nervous, I might have to rebuild my manifold

If it's working for you now I wouldn't go through the trouble, realistically you are only reducing the flow by probably 10-20% (if that) which in the scheme of things isn't a whole lot. I think it becomes more of an issue when you start to starve the pump of flow substantially, like say 50% overall.

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The corvettes are amazing, though I suppose if they were rare imports like the Nissan R34 Skyline it'd be hard to justify one unless you were just a crazyfan of them.

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The corvettes are amazing, though I suppose if they were rare imports like the Nissan R34 Skyline it'd be hard to justify one unless you were just a crazyfan of them.

I would assume, if the Corvette ever made it to Oz it would be in the realm of $70k starting price. The Mustang that arrives next year will be starting at around $60k. Jap imports on the other hands are readily available and reasonable priced. You can import a 2 door GTR R34 from Japan with very low miles for around the $50k mark, will probably devour anything we can get locally for the same money brand new also. There are always collectors though. Quite a few people import both new and old Corvettes from the states to resell them. My best friends boss used import 2-3 70's Corvettes a year to resell on the side.

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