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Smallest external protien skimmer you have seen?


CodeToad

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Btw, I ended up finding the answer to my earlier question about how to connect the CPVC intake tube to the output of the Maxijet powerhead: turns out the Python hose (which I use for water changes in my FW tank) is just the right diameter, and I had some extra that I used for this.

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Undertheradar: I don't mean to hog your thread, but have some developments... I enlarged/lowered the water return hole and more bubbles started collecting on the riser area... lowering the return hole caused the water level to drop in the injection chamber, and more bubbles to be created due to the increased impact of the spray.

 

But it still wasn't generating a lot of foam, just bubbles... I thought that maybe the water wasn't dirty enough for anything to be collected, so I decided to throw in some organic matter... quick trip to the fridge, where I found some cream, and in the bucket it goes :-)

 

A few seconds later quite a bit of foam was already being collected, as the following picture shows:

 

reef-diy-skimmer-test-cream-20040723.jpg

 

However, the foam doesn't rise in the riser chamber and fall over to the collection area, it stays at that level and I end up with a "plug" of foam... any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Nuno

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It takes a while to break in a skimmer. You need to build up a coating on the acrylic so the bubbles stay in the chamber. Also remember it depends on your bioload and water quality.

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myfisharemean

cool, Do you think these will be for sale for less than $60, because that's about what a seaclone runs for, I don't know how well they run, but they look sound, and small. thanks -Matt

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nunofs, I don't see a air inlet next 2 the injector. Maybe u have one though. If not u need one if you have 1 try making it larger if it is very small.

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TheJDB: the air inlet is on the other side of the skimmer... it's quite a small hole, I will try to make it larger and see if that helps.

 

Thanks,

Nuno

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just a thought also how close is the water level to the injector? It looks like it might be submerged. If it is touching the water or under the water u may need to lower the outlet to the tank.

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The photo doesn't really show it well, but the injector is not submerged... the water level in the injection chamber is about the same as the level on the return chamber (left side). I had lowered the outlet hole a bit already, and it helped, but am afraid to drill it further down and have that make the water and bubble level drop even further on the riser area (right side)...

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then I think you will be OK, as DIYdude said just let it break in, My prism took 4 days to fully break in. I have an idea i am going to try on mine. I am going to make a lid on mine and place a small whole in the top of the collection cup. I will then place airline tubing from the air inlet to the collection cup. this will create a vaccum in the colllectoin cup and help draw up the foam. Then i will add a small whole in the lid with an airline tubing valve incase i need to adjust the vaccum. An airbreak of sorts. this will help "tune" the skimmer. I think it will work well.

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Anyone tried to build a larger version of this skimmer yet. I would be interested to here how it worked, pictures, anything. I might also try a removable tube for the foam riser istead so it could be cleaned easier. As this should be clean to help the foam rise.

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Undertheradar

First, from p.15.

JDB, I would say that it is easily possible. Just remember that making a skimmer that has a capacity that is double or triple the original doesnt mean you have to double or triple every dimension...just the ones that count. 8"long, 3"wide, and 24" tall is a monster! That thing would be large enough for a 150gallon! A remora, rated at up to about a 60gallon, is tiny compared to the dimensions you suggest, at only 18" tall. Try something closer to a remora or bak pak's dimensions and you should be fine.

 

nunofs,

your skimmer looks fine. bubbles look fine (at least it looks like alot of bubbles). I have noticed that skimming varies throughout the day. Chemicals that get released through the day by certain creatures, additives, and algaes change the surface tension of the water enough to hinder it's foam rising capacity. Give it a good 24 hours. If it still doesnt work, just hook it up to the tank, as I would bet that something about the bucket is disrupting the 'foamability' of the skimmer.

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Undertheradar

p. 16,

nunofs, looks like you are in fine hands already. Yes, it can take a bit to get the skimmer to 'break in'. Also, I was wondering if the bonding compound you used might be still curing and disrupting your surface tension??? And good idea to vary the water level...as you are using a slightly larger pump, your water level will be slightly higher in the skimmer with the specs all the same. Lowering the outlet port (which lowers the overall water level) would be necessary then to keep the injector above water.

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how do you post photos and drawings on here? I just started work on my skimmer today. All cuts are done, all that is left is to cement them together. would like to show a pic when im done or at least a diagram. demensions are 27" x 2.75" x 7.5". most of the added hight is to prevent bubbles from entering the return and a 7" tall riser (removeable) and 9" tall collection cup which will be trimmed down once the exact hight is found for a dark dry foam. I have also added a second baffle to help keep bubbles were they belong ( IN THE SKIMMER ). One more question, how do you fix a small leek on the outlet or another internal joint after the thing is together. I supose you just have to take your time and do it right the first time.

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Undertheradar

I have no idea. With plastic from the store, and a few CPVC parts, they are worth less than $2 in parts. however, a warranty, tech support, and all those other things require time and money. This is why I am talking with two places about them producing it for me rather than somehow trying to do it in my busy schedule. If I were to make them myself, as a DIY to fellow nanoer's, I would say about $20 would be fair, as the time to fab them is the major cost. If another company makes them...that may not be so...it could be $40 or something. Still a great deal all things considered, but I know it costs alot. For all these reasons I am completely behind anyone who is trying to build their own. It is one of the easier DIY acrylic projects I have done, and messing up a few times even wont cost you much in materials or time (it's mostly waiting time before you bond another piece cuz the current one isnt strong enough yet...thank god I am using weldon3, cuz 4 would be a nightmare!).

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I am very interested in one for a seahorse tank but high volume water movement is an issue for them.

 

I saw you were running on a 60 gph pump...the filters many folks recommend for a dwarf seahorse tank actually run around 20gph. I'm sure 20 isn't enough but do you have any suggestions for either:

 

1) a minimum gph that the current design would run properly on

2) any design modifications that would be suggested if a less powerful pump were used

 

Thank in advance & glad it sounds like your move went pretty well.

 

Carinya

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Undertheradar

why so low? I havent heard all that. I have seen many a seahorse tank with high water flow....just broken up into smaller outputs. Ex: a 33L with a 300gph pump...of course the pump's return was through a 4 foot long spraybar...creating very little turbulence, yet keeping the flow up. FWIW, the min size pump I would use on the new design is about 80gph...but due to the back pressure of the injector, the actual output is prolly half that, coupled with the fact that it is an overflow return, not a jetstream output, I doubt it would disturb much.

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I know I asked this at one point, but this skimmer can be made to be an "in sump" design? I have a fuge that is 12" tall (water level of about 11"), and 5" wide. Could I make one of these, and put it inside the fuge?

 

I've never worked with acrylic or DIY'd anything, so I'm a little worried about giving this a try. Especially trying to make a change to design to make it work in my fuge. Any ideas?

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First, thanks for your reply & input. I believe I am left with a "try it & see" situation & your opinion was helpful. I'll also look into other ways to do the return flow so that it is less disruptive.

 

why so low? I havent heard all that. I have seen many a seahorse tank with high water flow....just broken up into smaller outputs. Ex: a 33L with a 300gph pump...

 

Well, seahorses are for for sure good swimmers and too much current can be an issue. I guess you're questioning how much is "too much." Your 33L w/300gph example is a 9x pump speed to tank volume ratio. My dwarf/nano tank is 3.5g. With even a 40gph pump (figuring an 80gph with only half the output being generated due to back pressure), that's a 11.4x ratio. My current 16gph pump was highly recommended to me by people who know what they're doing w/dwarfs (4.5x ratio) and initially to me it looked like your skimmer (on a 60gph pump, not figuring back pressure) was about a 17x ratio. 4.5 versus 17 is a pretty sizable flow ratio difference. I just mention this because you sounded baffled that I would have flow concerns & I wanted to explain a little better where they were coming from.

 

Net net: I will give it a shot on an 80gph, modify the return a bit and see what happens. No doubt it is a kick-butt design and I am thankful for your pioneering & assistance.

 

Thanks again,

C

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Undertheradar and TheJDB:

 

as you both suggested, I put the skimmer on the tank and let it run for a couple of days... this morning it was already picking up quite a bit of yellowish skimmate in the collection chamber. The picture shows this well:

 

reef-diy-skimmer-20040727.jpg

 

So, it's working! I want to thank Undertheradar again for the great design and for sharing his plans.

 

Nuno

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nomofs, what kind of glue did you en up using? I couldn't get the weld on brand either. I'll post the brand that I used later as it is at work right now. I bought my cement at Hobby Lobby. It is for acrylic and plexy and actually melts the 2 together. Also how do you post pictures? Glad to see your skimmer working so well. Im willing to bet as time goes on it will only get better.

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TheJDB: the cement I used is called "UGL Safe Grip Contact Cement". I got it at a local hardware store, it comes in a small (3oz) bottle with a white, red and blue label. The main ingredient is Methylene Chloride (like Weldon), but it's very thick and it's got a yellowish/brownish coloration, it's not clear like Weldon.

 

Undertheradar: thanks for the compliment :)

 

I'm even more impressed today with the amount of stuff that the skimmer has been removing from my tank, it was almost filling the collection chamber. I ended up plugging a piece of airline tubing into the drain of the collection chamber and have it dumping into a plastic bottle that sits on the floor behind the tank. It's easier to empty it this way.

 

One remaining question for Undertheradar: how do you make the holes around the injector (on both sides of the acrylic) watertight? I'm asking because at a certain point I accidentally pinched the output tube of the skimmer behind the powerhead, which caused the water level in the injection chamber to rise too much, submerge the injector, and start dripping from those two holes... I know that this is something that wouldn't happen during normal operation, but am still curious if you made yours watertight, and how...

 

Thanks,

Nuno

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Undertheradar

I made the acrylic holes very snug around the CPVC first of all. Then I used washers on both sides of the injector...1/2" ID ones work best. When the elbow and endcap go on to opposite sides of the injector bar, they push the washers against the plexi, making awater tight seal.

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