NanoTopia's ZEOvit 80L [ ]

[TheKleinReef]

stunning shots. that first one is amazing

More snaps...

 

 

 

 

 

 

bring it to the next page

[NanoTopia]

Thanks Roger

[Reefkid88]

Dem spsssss doe !!!! So perfect

 

I'm really starting to think you're in the top 3 of my favorite SPS tanks,along with AJ & TJ !! Thanks for being the inspiration I need to set up another tank,and giving me and I'm sure a bunch of other people info and pictures to drool over lol.

[SouthFlorida_Tron]

Hopefully my Red Planet follows the lead of your RP!

[NanoTopia]

Dem spsssss doe !!!! So perfect

 

I'm really starting to think you're in the top 3 of my favorite SPS tanks,along with AJ & TJ !! Thanks for being the inspiration I need to set up another tank,and giving me and I'm sure a bunch of other people info and pictures to drool over lol.

Thank you for such a kind complement

 

Hopefully my Red Planet follows the lead of your RP!

It will, one day you will wake up to it tabling

[NanoTopia]

Guess I'm in the picture taking mood lately

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TheKleinReef]

any advice on taking super clean top down shots? mine look good until i blow them up.

ie:

https://flic.kr/p/nDr72U'>https://flic.kr/p/nDr72U'>NAT_9132.jpg by https://www.flickr.com/people/113969537@N03/'>xMrKleinReef, on Flickr

[NanoTopia]

any advice on taking super clean top down shots? mine look good until i blow them up.

ie:

NAT_9132.jpg by xMrKleinReef, on Flickr

What's wrong with this?

 

Depth of field can be increased by choosing a larger aperture, this usually come at the expense of shutter speed, which is ok if you are not hopped up on coffee and your subject is not moving

[TheKleinReef]

What's wrong with this?

 

Depth of field can be increased by choosing a larger aperture, this usually come at the expense of shutter speed, which is ok if you are not hopped up on coffee and your subject is not moving

 

i was shooting at f 2.8 which is the largest aperture i could go... but i'm trying to get shots to show the texture

[NanoTopia]

i was shooting at f 2.8 which is the largest aperture i could go... but i'm trying to get shots to show the texture

Sorry, large like in large numbers >f2.8 , I would try f8, this will increase your depth of field, making more of the subject in focus.

[TheKleinReef]

Sorry, large like in large numbers >f2.8 , I would try f8, this will increase your depth of field, making more of the subject in focus.

 

i've been doing it backwards this whole time.... wow. wow. wow. wow.

i feel like a nooooooooooooooob,

[NanoTopia]

i've been doing it backwards this whole time.... wow. wow. wow. wow.

i feel like a nooooooooooooooob,

LOL

 

F2.8 = little depth of field = used for effect or in low light situations.

F22 = great depth of field = used when you want more of your subject/back ground in focus but requires high ambient light or flash.

[TheKleinReef]

LOL

 

F2.8 = little depth of field = used for effect or in low light situations.

F22 = great depth of field = used when you want more of your subject/back ground in focus but requires high ambient light or flash.

 

i can't remember why or when, but someone recommended i shoot at f/2.8 which is why i always did... welp i'll try again tomorrow.

i've never used a flash though.

what's your shutter speed at f/22?

[NanoTopia]

i can't remember why or when, but someone recommended i shoot at f/2.8 which is why i always did... welp i'll try again tomorrow.

i've never used a flash though.

what's your shutter speed at f/22?

They told you that because you were shooting action which requires a fast shutter speed >500. The great sports photographers have huge telephoto lenses 500-800mm with a low aperture of 2.8, generally huge glass worth thousands of dollars. The 2.8 allows them to increase the shutter speed to freeze action shots. Sports photography and aquarium picture taking... two different worlds. That is unless you are taking pictures of fast moving fish, then you have to start thinking sports photography to some degree.

 

Shutter speed and f-stop work together and opposite of each other in most situations of photography.

 

There is also ISO/ASA, the sharpness setting in general on your camera. If you choose 400 ISO you will be able to use a higher number f-stop (and gain depth of field) but the draw back is a grainier image. 100 ISO will give you a sharper image which can be cropped more without noticing much graininess in the image.

 

Three basic variables you adjust on a DSLR to suit your picture situation or artistic intention.

 

F-Stop

 

Shutter Speed

 

ISO

[TheKleinReef]

They told you that because you were shooting action which requires a fast shutter speed >500. The great sports photographers have huge telephoto lenses 500-800mm with a low aperture of 2.8, generally huge glass worth thousands of dollars. The 2.8 allows them to increase the shutter speed to freeze action shots. Sports photography and aquarium picture taking... two different worlds. That is unless you are taking pictures of fast moving fish, then you have to start thinking sports photography to some degree.

 

Shutter speed and f-stop work together and opposite of each other in most situations of photography.

 

i was told that here, on one of my posts, which i'm trying to find as we speak.

action photography is 1000x easier assuming you know how to adjust everything and have the right lighting and lens. basically a point and shoot.

 

i'll have to tinker around with the larger f stops. i've never used a flash, so trying that out will be interesting.

 

sorry for junking up your thread. back to your photo appreciation!

[NanoTopia]

Unloaded 20 frags today, really opened up the tank, have another 10 or so to get rid of then I will be able to see the sand again, LOL.

 

Problem is I could make 10 more frags right now, it never ends

[exactlyobp]

I keep coming back to those close ups Christine. Sigh..

[NanoTopia]

Anyone keeping ORA Bellina?

 

Seems to be a slow grower, mine a bit photo bleached so I moved it down onto the sand bed and it's starting to colour again.

 

[Reefkid88]

Anyone keeping ORA Bellina?

 

Seems to be a slow grower, mine a bit photo bleached so I moved it down onto the sand bed and it's starting to colour again.

 

Oh lord that's a gorgeous piece !!!!

[Polarcollision]

Hope you don't get tired of hearing how gorgeous your corals and photography are. Ever think about putting them on Getty or other stock sites?

 

I bought the cheap knockoff WP25 (no wp10 available at the time). It's on a voltage reducer, though IDK if that affects life. Cleaned it for the first time last week and it has full power back. They sure can collect gunk... I think 7 months old now.

[NanoTopia]

Oh lord that's a gorgeous piece !!!!

Thank you Kid, I looked back at some photos when I got it and it confirmed just how bleached it is. I give it two weeks and it will be mostly purple again.

 

Hope you don't get tired of hearing how gorgeous your corals and photography are. Ever think about putting them on Getty or other stock sites?

 

I bought the cheap knockoff WP25 (no wp10 available at the time). It's on a voltage reducer, though IDK if that affects life. Cleaned it for the first time last week and it has full power back. They sure can collect gunk... I think 7 months old now.

You're too kind Deb, I don't know if they are good enough for Getty, well who knows, never even thought of that

 

I had some pretty big concerns about the WP pumps when they were introduced, but people seem to like them. Increasing flow in the tank is a good thing for corals, I think most people are running too little flow with SPS corals in general. How do you feel the flow has impacted your corals?

[metrokat]

MP10 bearings went last night [again], from silent to horrific grinding at 4:35am, scared the crap out of me. Done with Ecotech Vortech pumps, I see a Tunze Nanostream 6055/6095 in my near future. Fully controllable with my Apex via a $20 cable, basically a no brainer. If the quality of the Ecotech pumps was better I might consider replacing it but that is not the case. I need reliability!

I'm a little tardy in responding to this. I have a blue box MP10 which I bought used nearly 2 years ago. I'm guessing it is probably 4-5 years old by now. It works just fine. Sometimes you get a bad apple.

[Polarcollision]

Thank you Kid, I looked back at some photos when I got it and it confirmed just how bleached it is. I give it two weeks and it will be mostly purple again.

 

You're too kind Deb, I don't know if they are good enough for Getty, well who knows, never even thought of that

 

I had some pretty big concerns about the WP pumps when they were introduced, but people seem to like them. Increasing flow in the tank is a good thing for corals, I think most people are running too little flow with SPS corals in general. How do you feel the flow has impacted your corals?

 

I think you should offer up your photos sooner than later. There's a lot of interest in reef decline and climate change. I see a niche for your work, especially if file size is large enough to print 8x10 at 300 dpi (or larger). As an artist, I'm not sure Getty itself is the wisest stock site to make a living through, used metaphorically above. I'll PM you the stock sites that get used more often which also give a better percentage back to the photographer if you're interested.

 

Flow. I truly could not begin to unravel if the differences between the two tanks is due to flow, lighting, nutrients, etc. The 24 is definitely more suited to SPS. The acro I placed near the WP25 lost flesh and retract polyps, so too much obviously. Instead I've created a circular flow pattern in ELSE mode with that pump, which is supported by the return nozzles. There's a little randomness, but not as much as some. No idea how many GPH, but it must be high in some places because the blue bird is packed in super tight. There are no branches just hanging out in the currents. They all curve back and fuse to the base again, much like an actual bird nest. Other places have almost no flow, like under the arch so that the meat corals can live peacefully too. I tend to think that the SPS growing the fastest have the most flow, at least in this little tank that is true. Since much of SPS is similar to bone chemically, I can imagine they respond like bone to changing stresses and pressures. More nutrients, more oxygen delivered, more wastes removed means more growth possible. I can't help but wonder if delivery of oxygen (as well as reducing CO2) is the key to growth. We get focused on the other ions and nutrients which are important, but life/health comes down to O2 and CO2 first. With increased metabolism comes increased need for O2 and CO2 neutralization. I assume the light and zoox handle glucose production, so coenzyme nutrients/vitamins, protein building blocks and lipids would be the next most important trio for growth. Just a thought.

[NanoTopia]

I'm a little tardy in responding to this. I have a blue box MP10 which I bought used nearly 2 years ago. I'm guessing it is probably 4-5 years old by now. It works just fine. Sometimes you get a bad apple.

I agree, bad apple, but I also think back in the Ecotech "blue box days", quality was better. When Ecotech became popular and could not keep up with demand, quality went down, as is the case with most products today. Just about everything electronic you buy today lasts <2 years. I am claiming a warrantee on a pond pump that died last week on us, just under two years old by 6 days, and just made the warrantee. Waiting to hear from this Canadian company on replacement, should hear today. I think Ecotech is going to have to step up their game with pump quality because I am hearing an increasing number of complaints on the Vortechs these days, a lot of people moving to Tunze or other pumps.

 

I think you should offer up your photos sooner than later. There's a lot of interest in reef decline and climate change. I see a niche for your work, especially if file size is large enough to print 8x10 at 300 dpi (or larger). As an artist, I'm not sure Getty itself is the wisest stock site to make a living through, used metaphorically above. I'll PM you the stock sites that get used more often which also give a better percentage back to the photographer if you're interested.

 

Flow. I truly could not begin to unravel if the differences between the two tanks is due to flow, lighting, nutrients, etc. The 24 is definitely more suited to SPS. The acro I placed near the WP25 lost flesh and retract polyps, so too much obviously. Instead I've created a circular flow pattern in ELSE mode with that pump, which is supported by the return nozzles. There's a little randomness, but not as much as some. No idea how many GPH, but it must be high in some places because the blue bird is packed in super tight. There are no branches just hanging out in the currents. They all curve back and fuse to the base again, much like an actual bird nest. Other places have almost no flow, like under the arch so that the meat corals can live peacefully too. I tend to think that the SPS growing the fastest have the most flow, at least in this little tank that is true. Since much of SPS is similar to bone chemically, I can imagine they respond like bone to changing stresses and pressures. More nutrients, more oxygen delivered, more wastes removed means more growth possible. I can't help but wonder if delivery of oxygen (as well as reducing CO2) is the key to growth. We get focused on the other ions and nutrients which are important, but life/health comes down to O2 and CO2 first. With increased metabolism comes increased need for O2 and CO2 neutralization. I assume the light and zoox handle glucose production, so coenzyme nutrients/vitamins, protein building blocks and lipids would be the next most important trio for growth. Just a thought.

Thanks Deb.

 

I concur with your thoughts on flow and exchange, and very well said

[Jstn]

Amazing shots and coral as usual, you make this hobby looks so easy!