Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

[jedimasterben]

Soo from what you stated i have come up with this.. I scratched out the cool blue unless it really matters that much.. and im sure when i get the leds i can figure out a better pattern as well.

 

i plan on running all the blues and uv on one driver and the reds and white on another. unless i should use 3 drivers...

 

Soo from what you stated i have come up with this.. I scratched out the cool blue unless it really matters that much.. and im sure when i get the leds i can figure out a better pattern as well.

 

i plan on running all the blues and uv on one driver and the reds and white on another. unless i should use 3 drivers...

I would use one driver for white, one for royal blue and violet, and one for cool blue, deep red, and turquoise/cyan, if you want full control over the color. You can, indeed, run them all together like you said, but what if the red is too overpowering, but the whites need to be turned up more to give you the right color spectrum?

 

Use TV not UV (UV < 400nm)

 

Also I would center around the red and cyan/turq

This. UV is not the same as violet (most sites will label it as true violet).

 

so should i run the 3ups and ocean coral white leds instead of each single led? to eliminate the spotlight efect?

Correct, this would be the best way to do it. Are you going to retrofit them into the little hood? If so, run them with no optics, and 120 degree optics on the OCW.

[knives2886]

Correct, this would be the best way to do it. Are you going to retrofit them into the little hood? If so, run them with no optics, and 120 degree optics on the OCW.

 

No i will be making my own hood.. im looking at the different leds now to see what i can do. never knew they put 3 leds on one board this makes things alot easier! im going to go do some brain storming and pricing and ill be back with what i hope is my final lay out XD

[jedimasterben]

No i will be making my own hood.. im looking at the different leds now to see what i can do. never knew they put 3 leds on one board this makes things alot easier! im going to go do some brain storming and pricing and ill be back with what i hope is my final lay out XD

There are even 7-up boards.

 

How high off the water will the LEDs be?

[knives2886]

Im thinking maybe 6'' to 8'' inches above the water with 120degree optics on them.

 

here is my last trial on this if it looks like crap im giving up on this build XD ill just buy it premade. also do you think i should add green in the mix?

[jedimasterben]

Im thinking maybe 6'' to 8'' inches above the water with 120degree optics on them.

 

here is my last trial on this if it looks like crap im giving up on this build XD ill just buy it premade. also do you think i should add green in the mix?

Looks good to me. No optics will spill some light into the room and out of the tank. If you're cool with that, though, should be ok.

 

Turquoise is green.

[Adrnalnrsh]

so should i run the 3ups and ocean coral white leds instead of each single led? to eliminate the spotlight efect?

 

Thats what I did.

[jT415Gz]

Use TV not UV (UV < 400nm)

 

Also I would center around the red and cyan/turq

Enlighten me. What is the difference in benefits between these two TV / V UV?

Why would you choose one over the other is what I'm asking.

 

TV

V UV

 

My version of OCW, Deep red 660-670nm; royal blue 440nm; cyan 495nm (Sorry Milad, I think the ones you offer are great, just needed ones that would fit on a standard star to avoid drilling and tapping new holes)

 

Mind I ask where you sourced those from?

They look pretty sweet and I like that they are standard 20mm?

[Adrnalnrsh]

Enlighten me. What is the difference in benefits between these two TV / V UV?

Why would you choose one over the other is what I'm asking.

 

TV

V UV

 

Rapid is calling theirs UV but they are not.

[jT415Gz]

So you're looking at:

8x NW Rebel ES

16x RB Cree XT-E

6x violet

3x cyan Rebel

3x deep red Rebel

 

I would still add cool blue. If you wait a couple of weeks, you can get 3up stars using Rebel LEDs, one star with 1x NW and 2x RB (individual solder pads so you can run each separately), the other with 1x cool blue, 1x deep red, and 1x cyan (all Rebels, and in series, so one connection to run all three). Should be $9-10ish for the NW/RB star and $10-12ish for the exotic star. Then just add violet.

 

Over the 36" area, I'd do 6x NW, 12x RB, 3x of DR/C/CB, and 4x violet. I'd also use four drivers instead of three so you can run the violets by themselves.

What's the difference in benefits when comparing True Violets with the Violet UV's that I currently have? Think it's worth it for me to switch to TV's?

 

Thanks for the input.

[jT415Gz]

@/Milan

 

I noticed you are out of the True Violet 2-packs in 60 degree lens.

When will more be available? I only need 4 pieces and not a 6-pack, unless it's beer.

[McJosh13]

Mind I ask where you sourced those from?

They look pretty sweet and I like that they are standard 20mm?

 

I bought the 3-up boards from here:

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-...1105_49_85.html

 

Then I asked Steve from stevesleds if he would sell me the royal blue, turquoise, and deep red emitters so I could attempt to reflow solder them on myself and he offered to have it done for me if I sent him the boards

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

@/Milan

 

I noticed you are out of the True Violet 2-packs in 60 degree lens.

When will more be available? I only need 4 pieces and not a 6-pack, unless it's beer.

 

We only sell the True Violet 60 degree in 6 packs because of logistics reasons. And you really never buy just two 60 degree True Violets, this is for deeper tanks or high hanging scenarios so you end up needing 6 in most cases.

 

(Sorry Milad, I think the ones you offer are great, just needed ones that would fit on a standard star to avoid drilling and tapping new holes)

 

Drilling holes is so last year, get with the program: No drilling holes heatsink

[Lednewbie]

We only sell the True Violet 60 degree in 6 packs because of logistics reasons. And you really never buy just two 60 degree True Violets, this is for deeper tanks or high hanging scenarios so you end up needing 6 in most cases.

 

 

 

Drilling holes is so last year, get with the program: No drilling holes heatsink

 

 

I understand about the logistics but even when I made my order, only ordered have of my DIY project because of the total about that added up I was forced to get the 2 pack TV with 120° optics. Would have liked to get the 60° for all of my LEDs.

[jT415Gz]

We only sell the True Violet 60 degree in 6 packs because of logistics reasons. And you really never buy just two 60 degree True Violets, this is for deeper tanks or high hanging scenarios so you end up needing 6 in most cases.

There are lots of people who have nano's, not to mention shallow setups too that wouldn't need 6 TV's.

I don't understand what you mean by logistic reasons?

Is it not possible to break up a tree of 6 led's and sell them as pairs?

Also, the shipping cost is quite high just for led's.

$6.00 for First-class...$14.00 for priority?

So I would need to buy 6 TV's 60 degree optics when I only need 4 w/60 degree optics and pay high shipping costs. How come the 2-pack of TV's with 120 degree optics are available for sale and not the 2-pack 60 degree? Again, logistics?

 

I don't mean sound like I'm being negative towards you, I just rather be somewhat clear on things before I order anything for the first time from a new vendor (to me).

[jedimasterben]

Mind I ask where you sourced those from?

They look pretty sweet and I like that they are standard 20mm?

Steve from Steve's LEDs has gotten some of those boards made for him and is going to start selling the same configuration with cool blue instead of royal. He is looking to have optics custom-made for it, too.

 

What's the difference in benefits when comparing True Violets with the Violet UV's that I currently have? Think it's worth it for me to switch to TV's?

 

Thanks for the input.

True violet = 390nm-430nm

UV = 400nm and below

 

 

UV is completely unnecessary - not only can our eyes not even see that light, UV is filtered almost completely by the water in your tank. Normal violet hits a couple of photosynthetic peaks, so you should see some incredible growth by adding some to your tank. But careful, since that peak is so important (418-425nm), these things put out a ton of PAR, but you never think about that because they look so dim.

 

 

The colors you get from them are unbelievable, as well.

[jT415Gz]

Steve from Steve's LEDs has gotten some of those boards made for him and is going to start selling the same configuration with cool blue instead of royal. He is looking to have optics custom-made for it, too.

 

 

True violet = 390nm-430nm

UV = 400nm and below

 

 

UV is completely unnecessary - not only can our eyes not even see that light, UV is filtered almost completely by the water in your tank. Normal violet hits a couple of photosynthetic peaks, so you should see some incredible growth by adding some to your tank. But careful, since that peak is so important (418-425nm), these things put out a ton of PAR, but you never think about that because they look so dim.

 

 

The colors you get from them are unbelievable, as well.

Yeah, I checked out Steve's site and took the leap and ordered the NW's and DR's plus some CAT6 and heatshrink. Great prices with fair shipping cost.

 

Thanks for touching on that.

So I need to figure out which to keep and which to lose.

I have these: Violet UV 3W LED 410-420nm 700ma by RapidLED <~~~ should I keep them or lose them for True Violets?

 

I mean the Violets that I have range right between the True Violets, is having that broader spectrum better; more bang for your buck?

I see that the TV's do go lower than 400nm, so you are saying that is a waste correct? But they also go up to 430nm, which my violets only go up to 420nm.

 

ahhhH... why am I thinking about this in the morning. Full Spectrum causes Full Insanity!!

[jedimasterben]

Thanks for touching on that.

So I need to figure out which to keep and which to lose.

I have these: Violet UV 3W LED 410-420nm 700ma by RapidLED <~~~ should I keep them or lose them for True Violets?

Yeah, they are not 410-420nm. There are only a few LED manufacturers that make "violet" high-powered LEDs, and of those, they are all almost the exact same wavelength - about 390nm to about 430nm. If it is marketed as a "UV" LED, it is most likely ~360nm-385nm I think is what those run, someone else can chime in on that.

[redfishsc]

Jedi, just how many true violet LEDs have you owned and used over the past 6 months to speak the claims I have highlighted and commented on below? If I'm not mistaken, you basically have just gotten into the LED scene a few months ago, and you are saying some things that are still just fanboy talk---- you and I had this same discussion over on Plantedtank.net, and you speak as if you are a legend in this field, but in reality you have just gotten into the LED world (which is great!) and you've spent a lot of time reading, but I fear you've spent as much time reading info from THE PEOPLE THAT SELL LEDS, which is not usually the most trustworthy source (I never consider them authoritative until I see it corroborated elsewhere.

 

Please be careful what you are saying. Some of this is blatantly wrong.

 

 

UV is completely unnecessary

 

True.

 

I argue that "true violet" is also unnecessary. It can be useful, admittedly, but it's not required at all. Hundreds of LED lit reefs prove this when they are doing quite successfully with no violet LEDs whatsoever.

 

- not only can our eyes not even see that light, UV is filtered almost completely by the water in your tank.

 

Completely wrong. Again, are you speaking from experience and investigation from actual trustworthy sources, or just from comments you've heard from other folks who are knowitalls?

 

Look at this graph. Notice that quite a considerable amount of UV makes it to the 10-foot deep range, and even more of it makes it past the 25-50 foot range.

 

 

Normal violet hits a couple of photosynthetic peaks, so you should see some incredible growth by adding some to your tank.

 

Half true--- violet is one of the photosynthetic peaks.

 

But this comment about "incredible growth by adding some to your tank" is pure conjecture that you cannot say reliably. You are completely and totally oblivious to the photoadaptation of coral. They are quite capable of growing on the normal white spectrums (esp. blue and red).

 

 

 

But careful, since that peak is so important (418-425nm), these things put out a ton of PAR, but you never think about that because they look so dim.

 

I would like to see a PAR meter over a TV LED. Every violet light source I've ever tested (actinics from PC, T5HO, and VHO) gave very, very, very low PAR readings because PAR meters are not sensitive at all to violet spectrums.

 

That doesn't mean the violet isn't useful to the corals, it just means that they don't put out much PAR.

[jedimasterben]

I argue that "true violet" is also unnecessary. It can be useful, admittedly, but it's not required at all. Hundreds of LED lit reefs prove this when they are doing quite successfully with no violet LEDs whatsoever.

They are not a requirement for growth or for coloration, however, it has been shown that when added, growth is accelerated and coloration seems to improve.

 

Completely wrong. Again, are you speaking from experience and investigation from actual trustworthy sources, or just from comments you've heard from other folks who are knowitalls?

 

Look at this graph. Notice that quite a considerable amount of UV makes it to the 10-foot deep range, and even more of it makes it past the 25-50 foot range.

Of course - I was referring to the bulbs used in our hobby, not the sun - the sun puts out significantly more UV light than any LED, T5, or metal halide bulb ever will, so it will penetrate far deeper. My statement was from a test of UV light reduction from halide bulbs - in their measurements of a 400w bulb, at 24" nearly 95% of the UV light emitted by it was no longer present. Test was done without the "UV shield" over the halide bulb.

 

Please excuse me for not linking immediately, I will have to search around for the link to the test.

 

Half true--- violet is one of the photosynthetic peaks.

 

But this comment about "incredible growth by adding some to your tank" is pure conjecture that you cannot say reliably. You are completely and totally oblivious to the photoadaptation of coral. They are quite capable of growing on the normal white spectrums (esp. blue and red).

Violet is one of the significant photosynthetic peaks - I just said that. As for incredible growth - look around. Find a few threads from people that add violet to their LED array and then notice that growth has increased around the board. This is also backed up by the fact that, as I said, violet sits on a significant photosynthetic peak, and its addition will provide more energy to the zooxanthellae and, therefore, to the coral.

 

I would like to see a PAR meter over a TV LED. Every violet light source I've ever tested (actinics from PC, T5HO, and VHO) gave very, very, very low PAR readings because PAR meters are not sensitive at all to violet spectrums.

 

That doesn't mean the violet isn't useful to the corals, it just means that they don't put out much PAR.

PAR meters don't work too well below 470nm (I'm thinking that's the cutoff, maybe someone else with that info will chime in here). If a light has a peak that sits on a photosynthetic peak, it will have a good PAR rating, and increases with intensity. Again, most don't typically think of violet as being too intense because we can't see its light very well.

 

I mean the Violets that I have range right between the True Violets, is having that broader spectrum better; more bang for your buck?

I see that the TV's do go lower than 400nm, so you are saying that is a waste correct? But they also go up to 430nm, which my violets only go up to 420nm.

Your violets are not 410-420nm. They are most likely 390-430nm like the other violet LEDs from the main manufacturers that our typical sources use. If they were, indeed, specifically 410-420nm, they would have cost much more than you paid for them.

[HecticDialectics]

Pretty shady of steve to have them mislabeled like that.

[jedimasterben]

Pretty shady of steve to have them mislabeled like that.

who is Steve?

[21093r53]

lolz at you guys wanting mh look with led, itll never happen long live mh and the 20k radium

[HecticDialectics]

who is Steve?

 

[jedimasterben]

That man was nothing more than a liar and a thief, I have no doubt he would mislabel LEDs.

 

lolz at you guys wanting mh look with led, itll never happen long live mh and the 20k radium

We don't want it to look like a 20,000K Radium bulb, we want to surpass it, and so far have. It is easily done with a proper full-spectrum setup and neutral white LEDs.

 

Your argument is for another thread, though, so please don't clog this thread anymore.

[chrssprngs]

Maker's has arrived. All the players are in the house. Time to build!

 

Question: I have 4-3ups, 1-OCW and 1- TV. Utilizing a DIM-4 to drive and control, which means I can only run 12 LEDs, what configuration would you suggest?