Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

[Lednewbie]

Clusters of 7 are 3x XT-E RB, 2x True Violet, 1x XM-L NW, 1x OCW

Clusters of 9 are 4x XT-E RB, 2x True Violet, 2x XM-L NW, 1x OCW

[Nanosurf]

Here is a link to a 28 led full spectrum on a makerled heatsink

http://www.3reef.com/forums/led-aquarium-l...ink-135913.html

[Lednewbie]

Here is a link to a 28 led full spectrum on a makerled heatsink

http://www.3reef.com/forums/led-aquarium-l...ink-135913.html

 

Awesome build, love the way you laid out the LEDs. Do you have pics of it with the lights off because I want to hide as much wires as possible.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Here is a link to a 28 led full spectrum on a makerled heatsink

http://www.3reef.com/forums/led-aquarium-l...ink-135913.html

 

Nice job, looks great!

[iheartJMS]

What should I run over my 40b mixed reef? It's almost finished, time for light I would really like to get the complete 24 LED dimmable kit from rapidled and then adding on the colors. I was thinking 16 rb and 8 nw. What else would you recommend I add?

[rc407093]

The info here and all over nano-reef is absolutely excellent. I wouldn't have been able to make my full spectrum LED fixture without all the help out there. I only hope I can help someone else in return.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the numbers on the setup:

RB: XP-E @ 700mA (x6)

RB*: XT-E @ 1000mA (x6)
RbS: Philips Luxeon ES Royal Blue @ 1000mA (x6)

CW: XT-E @ 700mA (x6)

WW: XT-E @ 700mA (x6)

NW: XP-G @ 700mA (x6)

TV: True Violet @ 700mA (x12)

 

Controlled by DIM4:

--Ch1 (@ 5.5v): RB, RB*, TV

On - 7:30am

Full on - 11:30am

Off - 4:30pm

Full off - 7:00pm

 

--Ch2 (@5.5v): CW, NW

On - 9:00am

Full on - 12:00pm

Off - 5:00pm

Full off - 6:00pm

 

--Ch3 (@5.0v): WW

On - 10:00am

Full on - 1:00pm

Off - 3:30pm

Full of - 6:30pm

 

--Ch4 (@5.5v): CB, RbS

On - 10:00am

Full on - 12:30pm

Off - 5:00pm

Full off - 6:30pm

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

The info here and all over nano-reef is absolutely excellent. I wouldn't have been able to make my full spectrum LED fixture without all the help out there. I only hope I can help someone else in return.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the numbers on the setup:

RB: XP-E @ 700mA (x6)

RB*: XT-E @ 1000mA (x6)
RbS: Philips Luxeon ES Royal Blue @ 1000mA (x6)

CW: XT-E @ 700mA (x6)

WW: XT-E @ 700mA (x6)

NW: XP-G @ 700mA (x6)

TV: True Violet @ 700mA (x12)

 

Controlled by DIM4:

--Ch1 (@ 5.5v): RB, RB*, TV

On - 7:30am

Full on - 11:30am

Off - 4:30pm

Full off - 7:00pm

 

--Ch2 (@5.5v): CW, NW

On - 9:00am

Full on - 12:00pm

Off - 5:00pm

Full off - 6:00pm

 

--Ch3 (@5.0v): WW

On - 10:00am

Full on - 1:00pm

Off - 3:30pm

Full of - 6:30pm

 

--Ch4 (@5.5v): CB, RbS

On - 10:00am

Full on - 12:30pm

Off - 5:00pm

Full off - 6:30pm

 

 

Nice! Im a fan of shallow tanks, now get some corals in there!

[MFChop]

 

 

The color is amazing, I really like the setup of clusters. Any reason why you didnt use any red or green? Also what about moon lighting?

[rc407093]

The color is amazing, I really like the setup of clusters. Any reason why you didnt use any red or green? Also what about moon lighting?

 

Thanks guys. I'm in the process of rigging up some moonlights for it. I decided not to use reds because I wasn't totally sure how I was going to arrange all of the LEDs and I didn't want to limit my possibilities by having to blend a strong red light. As far as the greens go, I'm unsure of them. I had used cool blues in my previous fixture and liked the way that those looked so I just felt more confident in those rather than the greens.

[firebirdude]

What happened to the chart in the original post? Of the coral photosynthesis spectrum?

[jedimasterben]

What happened to the chart in the original post? Of the coral photosynthesis spectrum?

The host (goodluckmakingrent.com) is up for renewal, and I don't think the owner is going to renew it. I will find it and upload it again to another image host.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

The host (goodluckmakingrent.com) is up for renewal, and I don't think the owner is going to renew it. I will find it and upload it again to another image host.

 

Just let me know, ill update the first post.

[jedimasterben]

Found it, and a few others that would be good additions:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And this time, I'm storing all of these on my personal server (a home server, not a public one, else I'd just link to it from there), so it'll be backed up redundantly.

[Singlefin]

Finally putting my led build together. I have 12- 3Up's, 4- OCW's, and 4- TV. I'm going to try run them in two clusters on a 24" MakersLed Heatsink with 4 inventronics 40w drivers each having its own POT. This will be going over a 40B that is 36" long.

I'm trying to decide how to separate them to each driver. I was thinking driver A= 12-RB & 4-NW on left side. B= 12-RB & 4- NW on right side. Driver C= 4-OCW's (12-LEDs) & 4- NW. Driver D= 4- TV @ 500ma? Can I run only 4 LEDs @500ma on one driver? Or do need to add more to make the minimum 6? Any suggestions or if you see something I am missing, any help would be appreciated. This lighting job has me spinning. Thanks.

 

 

 

[topjimmy]

Finally putting my led build together. I have 12- 3Up's, 4- OCW's, and 4- TV. I'm going to try run them in two clusters on a 24" MakersLed Heatsink with 4 inventronics 40w drivers each having its own POT. This will be going over a 40B that is 36" long.

I'm trying to decide how to separate them to each driver. I was thinking driver A= 12-RB & 4-NW on left side. B= 12-RB & 4- NW on right side. Driver C= 4-OCW's (12-LEDs) & 4- NW. Driver D= 4- TV @ 500ma? Can I run only 4 LEDs @500ma on one driver? Or do need to add more to make the minimum 6? Any suggestions or if you see something I am missing, any help would be appreciated. This lighting job has me spinning. Thanks.

 

 

 

What is with all the thermal paste/adhesive I see you all using. A small dab is all that is needed.

 

Looking good though. I hope to start my build soon, been waiting on some TV''s.

[siwelk]

Too much thermal grease.

[firebirdude]

Damn. I thought he purposely roughed up the shiny heatsink before installing. LOL Yeah. That's WAY too much.

 

Make sure you post up finished pics when you're done. I have a 40B as well and am curious how this is gonna turn out.

[firebirdude]

Found it, and a few others that would be good additions:

 

[images]

 

And this time, I'm storing all of these on my personal server (a home server, not a public one, else I'd just link to it from there), so it'll be backed up redundantly.

Those are for green leafy land plants. Not coral specifically. I would assume photosynthesis might be slightly different for corals. Maybe they don't make use of certain things on those charts? Maybe they make use of wavelengths not mentioned on those charts? Any clue on this?

[jedimasterben]

Those are for green leafy land plants. Not coral specifically. I would assume photosynthesis might be slightly different for corals. Maybe they don't make use of certain things on those charts? Maybe they make use of wavelengths not mentioned on those charts? Any clue on this?

Should be the same. Zooxanthellae are pretty standard when it comes to photosynthesis, it's just that some are able to draw more energy from the blue end of the spectrum if they are in deep water, but they can take advantage of whatever spectrum is given.

 

 

This is my understanding, anyway.

 

 

EDIT: See this from Advanced Aquarist, a readout for a favia sp.

 

[firebirdude]

EDIT: See this from Advanced Aquarist, a readout for a favia sp.

 

Image didn't work for me, but here's the entire article for anyone that is interested. Though it's dated, it's a good read. It essentially compares the photosynthesis of an aquatic mushroom under different Kelvin halide lamps. Though very small samples were used, as it admits, it concludes that the spectral color of the halide had no effect on overall photosynthesis. It ventures to state that overall intensity matters more than spectrum. However, let's remember this is with a halide lamp. Halides already provide quite the full spectrum of wavelengths compared to our LED fixtures.

 

This really only reiterates what I've been thinking lately. We need to return to the 1:1 white/blue ratio as our rule of thumb. The blue wavelengths do seem to be favored by photosynthesis, no doubt. But it's not as drastic as we've made it out to be. White LEDs provide a full spectrum of color, which is exactly what we've been fighting to regain in this thread. Albeit a low intensity, this is still beneficial for coral color and growth. Even a 1:1 ratio provides a TON of extra blue intensity. No need to take it to 2:1 or even 3:1 as some have. As I linked to earlier in this thread, here's the spectral output of several common manufactured LED fixtures. Most use a 1:1 ratio and one even uses a 1:2 blue/white ratio! Though their entire spectral outputs don't exactly mimic a halide overall, I'm just discussing the blue vs white ratio here. Other color LEDs will still certainly be desirable, but I'm just saying some of us are getting a little crazy with the blue.

[jedimasterben]

Image didn't work for me, but here's the entire article for anyone that is interested. Though it's dated, it's a good read. It essentially compares the photosynthesis of an aquatic mushroom under different Kelvin halide lamps. Though very small samples were used, as it admits, it concludes that the spectral color of the halide had no effect on overall photosynthesis. It ventures to state that overall intensity matters more than spectrum. However, let's remember this is with a halide lamp. Halides already provide quite the full spectrum of wavelengths compared to our LED fixtures.

 

This really only reiterates what I've been thinking lately. We need to return to the 1:1 white/blue ratio as our rule of thumb. The blue wavelengths do seem to be favored by photosynthesis, no doubt. But it's not as drastic as we've made it out to be. White LEDs provide a full spectrum of color, which is exactly what we've been fighting to regain in this thread. Albeit a low intensity, this is still beneficial for coral color and growth. Even a 1:1 ratio provides a TON of extra blue intensity. No need to take it to 2:1 or even 3:1 as some have. As I linked to earlier in this thread, here's the spectral output of several common manufactured LED fixtures. Most use a 1:1 ratio and one even uses a 1:2 blue/white ratio! Though their entire spectral outputs don't exactly mimic a halide overall, I'm just discussing the blue vs white ratio here. Other color LEDs will still certainly be desirable, but I'm just saying some of us are getting a little crazy with the blue.

You should only use a 1:1 ratio of white and blue if you use cool white LEDs, which, depending on the kelvin rating, can have little red/yellow/green spectrum. We use a 1:2 or 2:3 ratio of neutral white to royal blue to not only add in a LOT of red/yellow/green, but the extra royal blues help our eyes out - otherwise a 1:1 ratio of NW to RB would be yellow, you would hardly be able to tell the RB were on.

 

Adding in deep red, cyan/turquoise, and cool blue helps bring those spectrums into play even more (as red and cool blue are in photosynthetic territory) and also help bring out coloration and fluorescence in corals. Violet is a spectrum that is lacking from pretty much any LED array that lacks violet LEDs - Cree/Luxeon/Bridgelux RB just don't get down into that spectrum.

[Singlefin]

Too much thermal grease.

 

It is a super tiny dab of grease I just spread the dab out. Once I get the final position I wipe off the excess. It looks like its lot because of the shine. I put a tiny dab and spread it across both sides of the channel since they are mounted through the middle.

[Alkomist]

were can get one of those drivers? and whats the longest i can get one?

[Singlefin]

Drivers?

[firebirdude]

You should only use a 1:1 ratio of white and blue if you use cool white LEDs, which, depending on the kelvin rating, can have little red/yellow/green spectrum. We use a 1:2 or 2:3 ratio of neutral white to royal blue to not only add in a LOT of red/yellow/green, but the extra royal blues help our eyes out - otherwise a 1:1 ratio of NW to RB would be yellow, you would hardly be able to tell the RB were on.

 

Adding in deep red, cyan/turquoise, and cool blue helps bring those spectrums into play even more (as red and cool blue are in photosynthetic territory) and also help bring out coloration and fluorescence in corals. Violet is a spectrum that is lacking from pretty much any LED array that lacks violet LEDs - Cree/Luxeon/Bridgelux RB just don't get down into that spectrum.

Don't over-estimate how much red/yellow/green is added by neutral white versus cool whites. Yes, true, if you look at the relative spectral output charts on Rapid's or LEDGroup's website, it certainly looks like a lot more. But those are RELATIVE. In the grand scheme of spectral intensity, ALL wavelengths of ALL whites are pretty weak. While this may seem obvious, I'm simply saying don't over estimate it. Completely casting off cool whites in favor of the warmer neutral white, in order to take this relativity small advantage, may not be the best option. As you said, a ton of extra blue is needed to offset that warm yellow color. Additionally, some have found the NW:RB combo to produce an undesirable purple color. Maybe half cool and half neutral would be a better solution? Helps to complete the spectrum somewhat, while not going overly yellow?

 

Again, adding colored LEDs is still a must. These provide the brunt of their given color.

 

 

were can get one of those drivers? and whats the longest i can get one?

I assume you meant heatsink. And LEDgroupbuy is your answer.