Custom Look CadLights 50Long

[jera891]

Not 100% sure if that is bryopsis or not, but if it is, you can use Kent Tech-M to raise your magnesium to about 1600-1700 and kill it. However, I did this without SPS in my tank. Not sure how raising the magnesium that high would do with your monti caps.

 

But there is a magnesium compound in Tech-M that isn't found in most magnesium supplements that bryopsis cannot handle.

[twan]

Rock was dry to start.

Sand was from 2 new unopened bags.

The bryopsis started 1-2 days before the new frags were put into the tank.

The only wet things that entered the tank prior to seeing the bryopsis was the mangrove & snail (no hermits) order from Reefcleaners.

[Sahin]

Rock was dry to start.

Sand was from 2 new unopened bags.

The bryopsis started 1-2 days before the new frags were put into the tank.

The only wet things that entered the tank prior to seeing the bryopsis was the mangrove & snail (no hermits) order from Reefcleaners.

 

Twan: The fern-like description makes me believe this is bryopsis.

 

As for where it comes from: it could well be from the dry rocks. Many kinds of algal spores can dry out and survive. I ordered Marco Key Largo Rocks. Its dry rock, but I gave the rocks a bleach and Muriatc Acid bath to melt the surface layer of hte rock:

 

1. To remove bound organics and phosphate

2. To hopefully kill off algae spores that may spring various algae once the rock is wetted.

 

But since your tank is already setup; fight the algae now with Kent Magnesium. This stuff definately kills Bryopsis as I used it in the past.

 

Your tanks looks very nice, I like the rockwork and the lights look very cool.

 

Keep the updates going, I'd really like to see the SPS colour in 6 months time under the LED's.

[twan]

So this new algae breakout is all that is standing between me and adding my 1st fish.

From opinions on here and other forums this is just not new tank syndrome or plain hair algae.

This is bryopsis. Let's start attacking it.

 

Tests Before Removal

0 ammonia

0 nitrite

5-10 nitrate

.08 phosphate

 

Here are 2 pictures of the offending algae:

 

 

 

Attack Stage 1 - Completed

-Manual removal from rocks with tweezers.

-Manual removal from 2 rocks with brush in another container.

-Complete replacement of one particular rock with one still cycling in my old bin (left picture is removed rock and right is ts replacement:

-Results (can also see new monti cap placement):

 

Attack Stage 2 - Taking place tomorrow.

-Water change.

-Addition of 5 emerald crabs, 8 hermit crabs, 4 peppermint shrimp to boost my CuC.

-Retest water parameters 24hrs later.

 

Attack Stage 3 - Taking place this weekend.

-Test magnesium.

-Bump magnesium to 1600 using Kent Tech M.

[bear-hugs]

really nice set up. i love it. i took down my tank for a year now and with all the new stuff, i would love to start up again. thinking about setting up something of the 50G Long or the 70G Artisan. been hearing some great hings about the skimmers and reactors, should make life easier than before.

[twan]

Ok onto Attack Stage 2

After a 20% Water change and the addition of 5 emerald crabs, 8 hermit crabs and 4 peppermint shrimp to boost my CuC, I am now shutting off my lights for 48 hours.

 

Tests Before Manual Removal & Water Change.

0 ammonia

0 nitrite

5-10 nitrate

.08 phosphate

 

Tests After Manual Removal & Water Change.

0 ammonia

0 nitrite

2 nitrate

.05 phosphate

 

The small,approximatley 1/2 a dime sized areas of what we now believe is Bryopsis have 1-3 fern like filaments growing out of them. While this is not an infestation as it stands now; the areas are spread apart. Magnesium measuring and boosting to the 1600 range is the next step.

================================================================================

============================================

 

 

 

Side question.

Unlike the bryopsis patches, areas in direct light have begun to get a lime green coating on them.

I read that sometimes lime green on a rock can be the signs of phosphates leaching out from the rock, which can cause algae outbreaks such as hair algae. Other times it can be the signs of new coraline growth. Its not fuzzy or slimy to the touch, it almost looks like its been painted on. Tooth brush scrubbing does not remove it. Here is a picture of what I am talking about, this is from another users tank but color and pattern the same as mine.

 

 

 

Reference Link:

http://www.garf.org/NORM/coralline/corallinenorm.shtml

 

The initial growth will appear as a lime green coating. After about three months you will see your rocks turn pink, then purple. Naturally, the degree of coloration will vary from tank to tank.

[Deckoz2302]

the light green is coralline...first come light greens, then doo do browns, then pinks, then purples then maroons, then reds then oranges(if you were lucky enough to have some orange spores)

 

also. the sooner your rocks are covered in coralline, the coralline will defend the rock from having pest algae latch onto it and get a footing....i vote for lights to stay on.

[twan]

the light green is coralline...first come light greens, then doo do browns, then pinks, then purples then maroons, then reds then oranges(if you were lucky enough to have some orange spores)

 

also. the sooner your rocks are covered in coralline, the coralline will defend the rock from having pest algae latch onto it and get a footing....i vote for lights to stay on.

 

Thanks for the reply Deckoz. I guess with cycling my rocks in tubs for 6 weeks to start I expected something different. But it makes sense that now after 3 weeks with light things would start to go green.

You think to not turn the lights out to try to stop the bryopsis because I would also be stopping the corraline that will cover rocks and stop bryopsis from getting a foothold?

 

p.s. did you make a new tank thread? this site needs your thread(s)

[Deckoz2302]

I think that when people do blackouts it upsets the balance that we are trying to create. A system that is used to a light cycle will maintain a better control of algae and growth then a system that goes through blackouts. Bryopsis can be a pain, and I see your adding magnesium to retard it, when you dose the magnesium, squirt it right at the foothold of wherever the bryopsis is so it gets a super concentrated burn, followed by the rise of the water volume's threshold. My point being, you ever notice how people do lights out and are like omg the cyano is gone?!?! then a few days after the lights are back on its back in full force. When you go lights out a multitude of things happens.

 

First the algae dies off and whatever it contained is now back in the water, ie nitrates and phosphates.

Two new tanks don't have an incredible amount of denitrifying backteria. So when the lights are off, one of the only other things that would absorb that(coral - zooxanthellae) and processs them to reduce them naturally - aside from the skimmer or media - is inactive because the lights are off.

 

Sure blackouts can work if they're followed by large waterchanges before lights comeback on for photosynthesis to continue. However I have always seen better results in overall stability with a continuous light cycle beating most forms of pest algae vs doing a blackout. Just my views on it.

 

Also no I didn't start another tank thread and more then likely won't until I set up the 180.

[twan]

Bryopsis Battle

Well my Tech M and Magnesium Test kit came in............but after adding my emerald crabs, hermit crabs and peppermint shrimp combined with a water change about 90% of the bryopsis has disappeared. The lime green areas also have subsided. I am not saying it was eaten by the CuC or that my water change and manual removal was a complete success but I am very happy about this.

 

Will it come back? Not sure, but for now I am not going to dose the Tech M yet.

 

Equipment Panel

Got the Ecotech Battery backup wired to run both MP10's if there is a power loss and I am not home to wheel out and turn on the generator. Also took this time to clean up some mounting positions.

 

 

Corals

Everything is doing fine under my current lighting parameters. The hammer did not like the flow in the old spot so here it is in its new home opening full and very happy.

 

 

Here is a new addition, 2 heads of Orange Florida Ricordea

 

 

New Order

Since everything has settled down I am going to add fish. The rock has been cycled for over 3 months and exposed to light and the new sand for about a month. I am trying to do things safe and slow. I think I have waited long enough. With my fish stocking list I wanted the more docile fish 1st. Here is my order coming in on Tuesday. I added 2 corals to it because why not get free shipping?!?!?!

 

Item Details:

CN-79907 SW - Starry Blenny - Small, Qty:

0508121300 Diver's DenYasha Goby Male with Red Banded Snapping Shrimp,

SE-48101 CF - Giant Green Polyp Duncan, Triple Head

051112419 Diver's DenMushroom Rock Ricordea Florida

[Asureef]

Yasha White Ray Shrimp Goby w/Banded Pistol Shrimp

Starry Blenny

African Leopard Wrasse

Flame Angelfish

Mystery Wrasse

Pink Skunk Clownfish (pair)

 

 

Word of caution, the Mystery wrasse will eventually go after your shrimps. Mine did fine with a cleaner shrimp I had for almost 3-4months. 3 weeks ago, I find shredded remains of the shrimp. I didn't assume anything, until I tried adding a second cleaner shrimp this Friday. Again same thing happened within 30mins of the shrimp being introduced. Only found the remains of the shrimp and a wrasse with a fat belly. That will be his last $25 meal.

 

Also, I would be wary adding so many peppermint shrimps, they are notorious scavengers which makes it almost impossible to directly feed your NPS/LSP corals. Unless you have a aiptasia problem, I would not bother adding them.

 

Anyways, your tank looks like it's coming along nicely. Just to let you know, you're likely to encounter a few more algae/pest problems. Personally, I think it is unavoidable with new setups, I'm still dealing with a few myself. (GHA .. )

[Paigee]

New fish are so exciting!

[twan]

Added the Yasha/Shrimp and the Starry Blenny yesterday via drip method over 30-40mins.

Neither have eaten in the first 24hrs.

 

Yasha/Shrimp - acclimated together but as soon as they were added the shrimp bolted but the goby did not follow. Right now the shrimp is hard at work making a burrow and the goby is about 10 inches away under a rock facing the other way, tucked way inside with no sign of wanting to come out. Is this normal? How will they pair up? Do I have to target feed that area with spectrum pellets / mysis to get him to eat?

 

Starry Blenny - LFS only had 4-5" large so I ordered a small off DFS and it is really small, I mean 1.5" max.

It's ok though, he can grow with the tank. Tons of personality as he perches all over the place and looks about.

Will he eat spectrum pellets / mysis or do I need to pickup some spirulina flake?

[modulok]

My Starry eats everything I feed. One of the most active fish I have, and he's always looking at me.

 

My Hi Fin Goby and Shrimp didn't pair up for 6 months. After I moved all of the bottom rocks (except the shrimp's) and the Goby found one of the burrow entrances. Then shortly after I upgraded my tank, the Goby was found dead in the sump. Shrimp doesn't come out without his extra pair of eyes.

[twan]

Fish report!

 

Starry Blenny - All over the place grazing on rocks. Has yet to take spectrum pellets, formula 2 pellets, frozen mysis or cyclopeeze from me. I guess he is not hungry with all the grazing?

Yasha - still separated from the shrimp, has yet to come out, has yet to eat that I have seen, did see a peppermint shrimp harassing him. What to do?!?!!?

[siwelk]

When I had a pair, they 'hooked up' within hours of simultaneous introduction.

Yashias are notorious for being super incognito though.

I'm sure he'll come around eventually.

I don't really care for Peps.

[twan]

Fish

Starry - Ill just stay content that the starry is grazing. He will not take any one of the myriad of foods I have tried. He is always put and perched.

 

Yasha - he has not ventured out of his deep borrow within a rock all the while 6 inches away in the opposite direction and under a different rock the shrimp is constantly working. I have yet to see him eat or come out. Maybe he is feeding on scraps at night. I am leaving him alone.

 

Skimmer

Got it adjusted so it is pulling some nice gunk now that I am feeding the tank. My problem is every time I turn off the skimmer to perform a water change or clean out the cup I have to adjust the skimmer way down. The water height is still the same as I am not turning it back on till the water level stabilizes..............it just goes all out of whack and I have to turn it way down then incrementally ramp it back up over the next 24hrs to get it skimming like it was. My 1st skimmer, this typical behavior?

 

WMX and Battery Backup

Added both of these to my Apex/Ecotechs and I am really happy with them. WMX rolls through 5 different profiles in a 24hr period with the 2nd pump mostly in antisynch. I used to just turn both pumps off via my Iphone app when feeding but the addition of the battery backup prevented me from that. The WMX addition also meant that I could not hold the "mode" button on the mp10 head unit to put it into feed mode. What I did then was create two different profiles off the APEX feed mode that worked out great. My feed interval is 10 minutes. My feed profile is constant at 5% for 10 minutes. My flush profile is nutrient transport for 2 minutes at 90% directly following.

 

If FeedA 002 Then [insert your profile for fast motion after feeding]

If FeedA 000 Then [insert your profile for slow motion during feeding]

 

Feed interval of 10 + 0 equals the 10 minutes you want to run the slow profile.

Feed interval of 10 + 2 minus the time Slow will run equals the 2 minutes you want to run the fast profile afterwards.

 

So with one touch of the bottom arrow on my apex i get pumps at 5% for 10 minutes to feed & then they automatically go into nutrient transport at 90% for 2 minutes to kick up anything uneaten so it can be sucked down to the sump and filtered/skimmed. When that is over it just kicks back into whatever time based profile happens to be running before I initiated the feed.

 

I was also able to finally setup a a dynamic dns server so I can acess the Apex while away from my home network. This apex is so worth the money.

[twan]

Fish list from here till the end:

 

African Leopard Wrasse (female)

Flame Angelfish

Mystery Wrasse or Four Line Wrasse

Pink Skunk Clownfish (pair)

 

Do you think the clown pair should be next or one of the wrasses along with the angel?

[siwelk]

I'd do clowns, angel, wrasse.

 

The angel you may find to be a nipper.

 

I'd separate the clowns and wrasses, as they are carnivorous and will make quick work of your microfauna.

Allow your supporting organisms to proliferate between introductions.

[buddythelion]

Don't leave the yasha alone. Get a turkey baster and blow a good amount of mysis shrimp into the burrow you he's in. They'll hide until they're brave enough to come out and by then they may have already starved themselves far beyond recovery. Happened 2x to me. Take the advice!

[twan]

I'd do clowns, angel, wrasse.

 

The angel you may find to be a nipper.

 

I'd separate the clowns and wrasses, as they are carnivorous and will make quick work of your microfauna.

Allow your supporting organisms to proliferate between introductions.

 

I read the Leopard Wrasse might be a little tempermental and I am going to add him next, solo.

That makes the Path ahead:

 

1.) Leopard Wrasse alone.

2.) Pink Skunk Clown pair.

3.) Wrasse + Flame Angel.

 

Don't leave the yasha alone. Get a turkey baster and blow a good amount of mysis shrimp into the burrow you he's in. They'll hide until they're brave enough to come out and by then they may have already starved themselves far beyond recovery. Happened 2x to me. Take the advice!

 

I have been blasting the burrow. I saw him grab one piece. The other day close to lights out he was a few inches outside of the burrow. My shadow hits him, he bolted. Just gonna give him time and blast his burrow with mysis every other day.

[twan]

Water Parameter Check

 

-7 days since last 12g water change.

-6 days since Starry Blenny and Yasha Goby with shrimp addition.

 

 

I am hoping to only have to change 12g of water every 10-12 days.

[mpsti05]

Param's look pretty good, i still stick with a 5gal water change every 7-8days on the new tank so far everything is good, Also put in an order for an african midas blenny such a cool fish with a crazy personality

[twan]

The last 24hrs of Apex

 

[twan]

A finally eating Yasha Goby. I saw him take a piece of mysis on two separate occasions now. One so large I though he would choke on it! His shrimp has an intricate burrow 6 inches away under another rock. He is not even aware. I am just glad he is poking out a little bit and I actually saw him eat something finally.

 

 

Starry Blenny stretching out in the shade. He is just about 1.5" and tons of personality. I saw him take mysis once but never any formula two pellets or spectrum pellets. He is however constantly grazing on the rocks.

 

 

New 3.5 Head Green Polyp Duncan - Aquacultured

 

 

New Florida 12+ mouth Florida Ricordis Rock