Custom Look CadLights 50Long

[siwelk]

[JR!]

rofl

[Deckoz2302]

Bahaha

[twan]

Accomplishments

So, got the new durso installed, drilled 3 small holes in the cap and that quieted the drain.

Replaced the mesh filter sock with a felt one and that cut down on the bubbles in the sump.

I am now able to open the drain 100% without sloshing. I am not able to open the return line full blast.

The WMX is setup and now controls my MP10's wireless switching between 4 different modes.

 

Hold

CAD sent out a new collection cup for the skimmer and it should be here this week so I can bring that on line.

 

Needs work

The water level in the overflow box is 3-4 inches lower then the display height. This causes too much noise for my liking.

I would like to cut this distance in 1/2.

I have adjusted things countless times to get a higher water level in there to no progress.

The only way I have gotten progress was to cut the drain which I do not want to do or dial back the return that leaves me with lower display height and only a trickle pumping back into the tank as a result.

 

What can I do?

 

Beautiful twan, congrats on the safe delivery man! Now where's the mother colony(haha jkjk)

 

From Bora Bora / Moorea Honeymoon

 

[Deckoz2302]

I see why the tank comes 2nd lol

[twan]

Tyvm.

 

Would it stand to reason that if I upgraded from the 1260 to the 1262

that my problem would go away because my return would pump

more up thereby making my overflow box water height larger? Or do I need to dial back my current return?

[siwelk]

If you increase your return, and your drain bulkhead can handle the [increased] flow, you'll see no difference.

IMO, dial back the return slightly to get the desired water level.

I ran Herbie style w/ dialed back return w/ 0 ill effects FWIW.

[twan]

Dialing back the return lowers the water height in the display and quiets the overflow box but the water height in the overflow box does not change. It just is not as loud because the water flowing over the teeth is not with much force so it only runs down the inside of the box and not gushing over.

 

For now I resigned to the fact that I needed to dial back my drain a tad. I was not able to get the proper adjustment I wanted out of a ball valve so I added a gate valve to the drain line as well. Excuse the crappy picture.

 

 

To help me feel more secure against snails entering and plugging up my drain I added a strainer fitting onto the durso. The strainer is 10 inches long (8 inch of strainer slots).

 

 

So, in closing, upgrading to the 1262 wont help? I am thinking it wont because my drain would still keep up with the 1262. The 1262 may not help for an additional reason. Connected to my 1260 and all the way to the bulkhead is 3/4" sch80. Then I have to run a reducer down to 1/2" because that is what my return line hole was drilled for. I am seeking advice on this one last time while I keep an eye on my dialed back drain to gauge my comfort level.

[siwelk]

Whoops, I think I meant drain, not return.

 

My bad.

 

Looks like you got it.

[twan]

If I add more water to the top display water level and the overflow box water level will raise only for a few seconds until the drain sucks it down and I am right back to the same level. I would rather a dialed back 1262 pump and an open drain then a wide open 1260 and a dialed back drain. I hear only 1 piece seperates a 1260 from a 1262. Changing the volute on the 1260 to P/N 7443670 from the 1262 costs $9.60 and would accomplish this task.

 

Reference Link: http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=459781

Reference Picture(1260 cover on left 1262 cover on right):

Part Order: http://parts.eheim.com/display_product.php?pid=1262

 

Looks like I can try this out without permanantly modifying the pump allowing me to revert to the stock 1260 if this does not work. But is more flow up going to solve my problem?

Even if it would................is the 3/4" to 1/2" reduction at the bulkhead still my bottleneck?

[siwelk]

Restricting the drain w/ the 1260 would put less load on the pump vs. restricting the 1262.

It can be tricky to "dial-in" the herbie method but putting a gate on the drain is a good start.

 

Personally, I would run the 1260 w/ restricted drain line.

That's what I originally meant to suggest.

 

I believe my mag drive was restricted on both the drain and return to achieved the desired effect.

[twan]

Looking @ 1st Coral Order

 

 

Pumps & plumbing aside there has been a slight diatom bloom on the rocks and glass but none on the sand.

The CuC I added last week from Reefcleaners has put a dent in it already. There was actually 2 small spots (dime size) of long hair algea that began to develop as well. For reference I am running a full ramp up and ramp down cycle on my lights peaking each of the 3 colors somewhere around 55%. This will be adjusted once corals go in.

 

Speaking of corals........................arriving tomorrow 5/3/12:

 

Divers Den ORA® Green Capricornis, Qty:1

Divers Den ORA® Red/Orange Capricornis, Qty:1

Divers Den ORA® Purple Hammer Coral, Qty:1

Divers Den Torch Coral , Qty:1

Divers Den Branching Acropora Coral Bali, Qty:1

Diver's Den Safecracker Colony Polyp Rock Zoanthus Indonesia IM, Qty:1

 

Going to dip everything in Coral RX pro for 5-7 minutes (with a gallon of SW from my tank) then a fresh SW rinse then into the tank.

Will post a FTS once everything opens probably this Friday 5/4/12.

 

[twan]

Divers Den Delivery 5.3.12 Video in 1080p:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9C-k_cnsck

 

-Everything still opening.

-AI Setting 31w 25b 50rb

[twan]

Everything still opening. AI Manual Setting 50w 60b 60rb.

 

The supervisor:

 

 

The FTS Shots:

 

 

 

 

 

[siwelk]

#### yeah

[twan]

New Coral Close Up's

 

Divers Den ORA® Green Capricornis

 

Divers Den ORA® Red/Orange Capricornis

 

Divers Den ORA® Purple Hammer Coral

 

Divers Den Torch Coral

 

Divers Den Branching Acropora Coral Bali

 

 

 

Diver's Den Safecracker Colony Polyp Rock Zoanthus Indonesia

[brad908]

Looks great

[Big Al's Online]

Great build - looking forward to an FTS in a year or so

[JR!]

love the green acro. tank looks awesome man

[twan]

Thanks for the kind words brad908, Big Al's Online & Jrmiller.

 

I am itching to add a fish next week. Wondering what from my list to add 1st.

I guess temper wise it would be the Yashia Haze / Pistol pair leaving me with adds in this order?

 

Yasha White Ray Shrimp Goby w/Banded Pistol Shrimp

Starry Blenny

African Leopard Wrasse

Flame Angelfish

Mystery Wrasse

Pink Skunk Clownfish (pair)

[siwelk]

Thanks for the kind words brad908, Big Al's Online & Jrmiller.

wtf

 

#### yeah is a euphemism for support.

[twan]

Sorry siwelk, I missed that comment, a #### yeah is good in my book.

I'm wet, care to join me? Oh lord.

[siwelk]

 

Same time, you don't know me.

[twan]

I have fern looking green hair algae growing in the last 2 day.

Small single strands in many places on rocks only not on glass or sand.

 

Nitrate 5

Phosphate .09

 

Is this Bryopsis that needs manual removal?

Is this just the type of algae I ended up with as part of new tank syndrome and will go away?

How do I combat this?

 

[twan]

I wanted to keep a hermit free tank if possible but if they will eat it then I would reconsider

 

Also it is more prolific on the higher rocks leading me to think light is fueling this.

The rock cycled In bins for 6 weeks in the dark and has been in the tank on a full lighting schedule for close to 3 weeks now. Diatom bloom has come and 80% gone and the green is new within the last 3 days.

 

New tank syndrome and continue along and add a fish?

Halt everything and begin manual removal?

Add hermits?

Dial back lighting?

All of the above?