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Garrett's Sealed Pico. 0.9 Gallon


garrettparson

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brandon429

not if they live in a great nutrient tank so they can reclaim the energy used to expend it. the way you are doing blast feedings with water change gives your tank a lot of support ability

once they are planted try not to knock them off! so you got the new glass lid done did I miss that? and what about the c balance, you doing a few drops of that yet or were we waiting need to go back and re read

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garrettparson

BAD NEWS: I came home my yellow mille is now white and appears to be dead. My acro still has some color but is not happy, trumpet is not poofy, red acan is very white and pale favia has a cloudy coat over itself. My tank is falling apart the past 12 hours...

 

I have been dosing I skipped one week though. I have been feeding and water changes aswell. I guess my corals did not like the movement at all.. Its very discouraging.

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brandon429

what movement are you referring to>

 

Id slow up on dosing and wait till the corals are reestablished now, water changes and feeding are a safe bet to restabilitze it.

Edited by brandon429
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garrettparson

Taking them off the plugs, handling them with the 10 inch long tweezer things, and gluing them to wall/rock.

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brandon429

Yea I know how that feels man, but it has to be the dosing that's my suspect as the sps grow just as easy as the softies when something isn't off. did the temp ever spike at all> remember it was running hot until it relied on that fan

 

I know in my sealed tank if the fan ever went off for even 15 mins while lights were on, thats enough to get to 90 and what you are describing in my opinion is either a pH spike from dosing or a heat spike, I have dropped my sps frags on the floor, polyp side down, where it broke in half and both pieces regrew inside the tank.

 

Also your lighting, thats very very suspect because its LED and completely experimentory in all micro pico reef use, I always say that using LED changes the predictability by a huge portion. The primary reason is the photodirection, the beam intensity of LED vs the spread out pattern of pc lights. In most of my tank friends in PM, one or more of their corals have bleached until they got the right spacing of the lights, in any way were the sps under the most intense directionality of the light during their first placement?

 

if you can be sure the light isn't bleaching them (did they come from LED lights at the pet store, what are they adapted to?) then the safest thing you can do is stop dosing and only do water changes for the rest of the month, a couple weeks at least.

 

Dosing turbo-runs the reef once the corals are known to be in a hospitable place, so for now its easy to wait and not use the pH blasting power that is C balance. I think the problem lies in the the light spacing or the dosing, can you get us a pic standing back so we can see the light spacing before you correct it? LED users might be able to spot too close a bulb

 

Another good thing to know is that the tank isn't crashing, there's been a localized effect on the sps frags. The filter bacteria and live rock life are all still fine, a full water change would have been the course of action as soon as sps stress was seen, if you haven't done one that's what I would do asap.

Edited by brandon429
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garrettparson

The thing is its my acan that is reacting the most. It is litterally killing itself I think. It is just non stop releasing its stuff. Its sad to say but it looks like I will have to start over on the "reef" part of it Atleast the new corals will be introduced in somewhat of a matured tank. No more lps at all though. In my experience when they stress out they are the ones releasing most of the slime as of now with the acan is none stop.

 

I say forget the LED lighting. How long is that 18W pc bulb? Your tank is longer then mine I think? Mines only a 6X6 cube.

 

Mine without the fan does not get that hot! Actually I have back up. With my door close and my ceiling fan on high it keeps it at about 78ish. If no fan at all the tank reaches about 83-85F.

 

And what if its the RO water? When they were exposed to air they seemed fine.. But about 5 minutes into the new water they exploded. Im not sure about it at all unless the LED light was cooking them while exposed to air a little longer then usual.

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brandon429

If a new water was used that can be suspect no problem. using distilled water or drinking water has always been fine in my tanks. all I do is make sure to check the specific grav and temp right before adding to the tank

 

need pics of closeups, these corals can extrude mesenteries/spill out guts and recoil them back in and be just fine in a day. something insulted them, but it sounds chemical as air exposure doesn't normally cause it.

 

air exposure with lights on, that could do it. thats one reason for doing the water changes when the lights are off + polyps are retracted which means less water weight/stress when exposed to air during the change. Worst case scenario go get some water you already knew to work before making the change.

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garrettparson

just did the water change.. My acan looks a little better i can actually tell hes a red acan now. Both mille and acro has been tossed now. They were just a white skeleton. Luckily my LFS just go in some nice SPS. I will stay opptimistic about this! And brandon how long is the light? Will it fit in a 6inch wide hood?

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brandon429

o forgot to answer that sorry. Mine are 13 watt pc bulbs sorry if I type 18 watts, those are maybe ten inches long? the nice thing about 13 watters are that they are nearly exactly 6 inches long. Sorry to have you doubting your light and such, its just so hard to pinpoint tank challenges without ever seeing the system in its current state. Theory takes you a heckuva long way, obviously, but these endpoint challenges are really hard to watch.

 

If it was mine Id be using azoo galaxy lights, the backbone of all my picos since the early 2000's. you can buy two azoo galaxy lights (13w) from any google source, and then buy the 50 50 13w bulb upgrades from hellolights.com

 

if you have money and time to spend its ok to switch them, but if you are getting a calm coral load with the recent water change maybe we can work more with your existing lights. raising them up higher will be a safe zone.

 

I hate to downtalk LED's as so many are having great performance with them, its just hard to factor in their effects having not used them and only going off the feedback I get from others. Holding off on dosing, making sure all change water is safe and raising the light a little should really, really work without you having to redo the lighting you've worked so hard on. Changing back to pc is perfectly fine, but people will accuse you next of trading in your blue ray player for a beta player lol

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garrettparson

Ha well after the water changes the acan is still freaking out and releasing slime. I cant get it to stop. I believe it is the water maybe. Or what if its my crushed coral? When i poured the new water in all this white dust stuff came from the crushed coral ever since then it went down hill. I have changed the water ones since then and the acan is still acting weird..

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brandon429

I thought you used the caribsea wet pack?

 

There was a reefbowl thread not long ago, I have it in favs, where this kid didn rinse and the silt was specifically causing coral death, nearly in exact terms I'll try to find it.

 

That could be an issue for sure, must eliminate the silt which is just basic physical irritation, its probably very hard for the corals to expel after sticking to tentacles etc

 

if there is any silt in the tank, it must be rinsed so that would mean a lid removal/resealing, its a pretty big job.

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garrettparson

Well I rinsed and rinsed and i did do some water changes before! I guess the silt though this time was able to come through. This is very frustrating. I might just go bare bottom less hassel when changing water. It would not get sucked in the tube/no stuck debris, does not go everywhere if water hits it. I just like crushed coral though because it seems to help keep ph more stable.

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brandon429

going bare bottom can't hurt thats for sure, so now Id wait for the substrate fix before changing up the other system params like lighting. glad we found a huge source for the issue as persistent sliming is not normal.

Edited by brandon429
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garrettparson

sliming for 3 days straight is not at all. I lost 3 corals in the process. Acan and trumpet survived today im taking everything out and going BB. I just dont like how unatural it looks. I suppose though I could get a zoanthid colony growing on the floor to cover it all. Pluse they can also help eat all the uneaten cyclopeeze.

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sliming for 3 days straight is not at all. I lost 3 corals in the process. Acan and trumpet survived today im taking everything out and going BB. I just dont like how unatural it looks. I suppose though I could get a zoanthid colony growing on the floor to cover it all. Pluse they can also help eat all the uneaten cyclopeeze.

 

So all this came about with disturbing the sand bed? I tried to read back and couldn't find it.

 

Hang in there. I'm sure you'll get it ironed out.

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garrettparson

Yup. So stupid.. I lost four corals out of 6 in my tank because of a sand bed. Not only is that annoying but out of all the complex things that could of happened it was the sandbed!

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Yup. So stupid.. I lost four corals out of 6 in my tank because of a sand bed. Not only is that annoying but out of all the complex things that could of happened it was the sandbed!

 

If you decide to keep a sand bed..see what you can do to get something in there to keep it stirred up. I know messing with a settled bed on a big tank can be a disaster..i can only imagine what it would do to a pico.

 

I think after your experience here I'm going to get a 2 spot goby right away. Adding a sifter to an existing settled bed mucks up the water for awhile as all the fine particles cloud the tank. But after awhile the sifting activity doesn't cloud up the water any more because its already well turned over. So adding one from the get go would head off that issue.

 

I feel bad for you problems. But thank you for helping me make the decision on what is going in this tank. I will just have to plan to keep most of the coral up higher in case he likes to sprinkle sand around.(my yellow headed goby I'm pretty sure did this on purpose to me).

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garrettparson

How big is this fish? Im trying to find a awesome fish to put in there eventually once its more matured and grown out in coral. I would like to have a bryaninops natans in there but seeing there like impossible to find. I need a cool fish that is a inch or smaller..

Edited by garrettparson
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How big is this fish? Im trying to find a awesome fish to put in there eventually once its more matured and grown out in coral. I would like to have a bryaninops natans in there but seeing there like impossible to find. I need a cool fish that is a inch or smaller..

3" adult size

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garrettparson

Dang.. Well would you have and Idea of a neat small fish? It would be cool if neon tetras could adapt to saltwater.

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Dang.. Well would you have and Idea of a neat small fish? It would be cool if neon tetras could adapt to saltwater.

Liveaquaria has a nano section

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garrettparson

Today I bought the Azoo galaxy light and the replacement 13watt bulb. I am kinda excited about it because now I can build a canopy to which I can hide the ugly top to this pico.

 

Now brandon on your picture the one where you are displaying the lights it has two over it. Would this tank be okay with just one? Or should I get two?

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