Chino Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Around double the watts of a little 3x1w bulb...think you have around twice the heatsink? (And airspace to use it?) I think that at least some of that variability you see in watts (which I have as well....mostly different between whites and blues) may be purposeful ("optimizing") due to heat and/or color issues...maybe other reasons too of course. All the same, I think it pays to be aware of it. -Matt Definitely twice the heatsink. 3 times actually. The heatsink measures 3.5" X 1.8" approx. Same diameter as the 3X1w bulb but triple the length. Quote Link to comment
dustbust Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Im trying to get a jump on my build. Im waiting for lights to come in and was wondering if any of you lads could tell me how long the bulbs were including the socket. So basically face of light to bottom of socket, that dimension. Thank you Im building an acrylic hood with an open bottom and I want to know how tall I need to make the sides so they cover the bulbs. Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Definitely twice the heatsink. 3 times actually. The heatsink measures 3.5" X 1.8" approx. Same diameter as the 3X1w bulb but triple the length. Time will tell, but if the heatsink doesn't feel any warmer after it's been on a while than a 3x1 then I bet that bulb will be fine. Im trying to get a jump on my build. Im waiting for lights to come in and was wondering if any of you lads could tell me how long the bulbs were including the socket. So basically face of light to bottom of socket, that dimension. Thank you Im building an acrylic hood with an open bottom and I want to know how tall I need to make the sides so they cover the bulbs. I claimed 2.5" in this blog post. -Matt Quote Link to comment
dustbust Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 awesomesauce. Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I got them in the mail today. I kind of had an idea how small these were going to be, but it never hurts to post a comparison shot. Thats a softball btw. I was amazed at how bright these are! They are the 3x3 for anyone who didnt see what i ordered. They are the warm white. I noticed when they are cold they are kind of a 12K color, but as they heated up they came down to around 5-6K. They also have a very slight purple tings to them. I held one over a 10" cube i have sitting near my desk at work, and i think one would be plenty suspended 12-18" over the tank. Im going to be working on making a durable fixture to put these in tomorrow, then ill post some pics if they indeed to do workout for my purpose (replace some shop lighting in our warehouse). It might fail at that purpose, but im sure i can find some dark spots that need some "lightening" up (i.e. over the shop saw). awesomesauce. Thanks Matt And to add to that...the bulb itself is 2 3/8" long. The socket added 1/8" to give a total of 2.5". Any more dimensions needed, just ask. Quote Link to comment
dustbust Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 I got my bulbs in and my acrylic hood is built acording to the 2.5" dimensions. BUT IM STILL WAITING ON MY STUPID SOCKETS. I ordered them the same time as my bulbs and my bulbs came last week. This is torture! 1DeR9_3Hy are you going to start a build thread? Here is mine. Not much because I don't have my sockets yet. Ha. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/318922-gu-10-nano-build/ Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 No build thread, ill just post a pic. Pretty simple, very "beta" version lol. AKA Rough...dont mind the superglue and hot glue. I used 1" PVC, hot glue to hold the sockets in, I used 20 AWG solid core (its what i had on hand), and a plug from a lamp i trashed awhile ago. I ran one piece of solid core wire down the length, then used a razor blade to remove small section (1/4-3/8") of insulation to tie in the sockets...saved some connectors and time not having to cut a whole bunch of wire. This is spaced 13" apart measures from bulb to bulb. Total cost was abotu $30, had most of this on hand. The final verdict: This version wont replace a shop light @ 12' height. HOWEVER, it will replace/add to many areas of the shop that needed better ligthing for tasks...like the shop saw, assembly area, etc..These lights area amazing for adding light to areas you need to see details. Quote Link to comment
dustbust Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 nice, simple and effective Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 If i build one of these for a tank, PVC will most likely be what i build with. Some black paint can make it look just good enough to pass most of the time. Quote Link to comment
dustbust Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Ya id go Krylon fusion black which looks good. Thats what im using to suspend my canopy. Otherwise metal conduit looks great and is dirt cheap. You can paint it black or leave it unfinished which gives a nice industrial look. Has to be done neat though or it will just look shoddy and go into the DIY Ghetto thread : ) speaking of Ghetto here is another thread link to my GU10 refugium light that should prob go in here. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/319703-check-out-my-ghetto-aio-refugium-light/ Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 How well do these work with glass tops? Im working on putting together a 20 long, and it has a custom cut piece of 1/4" glass that fits the top like a glove (no plastic hinge or backslash...just handles). I think if i point these so they are perpendicular to the glass it should be fine, but i wanted to see if anyone else has some experience here before i buy the bulbs. I must use the glass top to keep evaporation down. Im thinking 10-12 of these bulbs, with one end of the tank having a tighter spacing then the other end so i can have some difference in light intensity. Quote Link to comment
ChouDawg Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 How well do these work with glass tops? Im working on putting together a 20 long, and it has a custom cut piece of 1/4" glass that fits the top like a glove (no plastic hinge or backslash...just handles). I think if i point these so they are perpendicular to the glass it should be fine, but i wanted to see if anyone else has some experience here before i buy the bulbs. I must use the glass top to keep evaporation down. Im thinking 10-12 of these bulbs, with one end of the tank having a tighter spacing then the other end so i can have some difference in light intensity. Should work the same as any other LED light over a glass hood, if you ran them optic-less you can probably put them right on the glass without any issues. For a 20g long at 30" length with Tiny's equation you want 14 bulbs in a line spaced as closely as possible for optimal light coverage. Any particular reason you want some darker spots? Might look funny in real life/pictures to have some spots brighter than others. If you do the single row method and center it, the edges will probably be a bit dimmer for LPS/softies, also rock structure can make you some nice caves/low light areas. Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Anyone know if another seller can do the 2B;1W bulbs? I dont want to wait till feb 18th for them to ship out, then another two weeks to receive them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-GU10-3Watt-1pc-White-2-Blue-Led-3x1W-Epistar-3W-Led-Bulb-For-Tank-/281027899802?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416e91719a And if i go with just straight mix of 7 and 7 of the white and blue 3x1's with no optics laying on the glass, would that mix well? Should work the same as any other LED light over a glass hood, if you ran them optic-less you can probably put them right on the glass without any issues. For a 20g long at 30" length with Tiny's equation you want 14 bulbs in a line spaced as closely as possible for optimal light coverage. Any particular reason you want some darker spots? Might look funny in real life/pictures to have some spots brighter than others. If you do the single row method and center it, the edges will probably be a bit dimmer for LPS/softies, also rock structure can make you some nice caves/low light areas. Excellent. I just took apart one of the five Gu10's i have hear at work and seen how easy it is to remove the optics. Nice spread for a shallow tank also. When I said i wanted to have a tighter group at one end i was thinking the fluorescent side of my brain. I know ive read in here a few times not to mess with Tiny's layouts lol. But yeah, the goal was lower light areas for some of the corals that dont like sun bathing. But if you think moving the lights to the back would create a dark enough row in the front that works for me. Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 How well do these work with glass tops? I would experiment, but from what I've read the glass will reflect more than it transmits with 90° lenses or wider. I think with the standard 30° lenses you'll be fine. -Matt Quote Link to comment
Belac Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Anyone know if another seller can do the 2B;1W bulbs? I dont want to wait till feb 18th for them to ship out, then another two weeks to receive them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-GU10-3Watt-1pc-White-2-Blue-Led-3x1W-Epistar-3W-Led-Bulb-For-Tank-/281027899802?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416e91719a That 'luky' seller lots of people buy from will do the mixed ones Quote Link to comment
ChouDawg Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hm..ya positioning it farther back would do it but then you'll have a lot of spill over the back of the tank. Playing with optics will change the spread of your row and should get you the effect you're looking for. A few pages back there is a post with a 20L with a row of LEDs he went from the 30' optics (too much spotlight) to optic-less a few inches off the surface and got good results. Worth a look if you want to see how it will ultimately look. Oh ya, Chinese New Year is around the corner, so lots of sellers will be on hiatus for a few weeks. Quote Link to comment
Chino Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Anyone know if another seller can do the 2B;1W bulbs? I dont want to wait till feb 18th for them to ship out, then another two weeks to receive them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-GU10-3Watt-1pc-White-2-Blue-Led-3x1W-Epistar-3W-Led-Bulb-For-Tank-/281027899802?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416e91719a And if i go with just straight mix of 7 and 7 of the white and blue 3x1's with no optics laying on the glass, would that mix well? Excellent. I just took apart one of the five Gu10's i have hear at work and seen how easy it is to remove the optics. Nice spread for a shallow tank also. When I said i wanted to have a tighter group at one end i was thinking the fluorescent side of my brain. I know ive read in here a few times not to mess with Tiny's layouts lol. But yeah, the goal was lower light areas for some of the corals that dont like sun bathing. But if you think moving the lights to the back would create a dark enough row in the front that works for me. +1 on this. Anyone selling their 2b 1w 3X1 epistar bulbs? I need 1bulb but 3 would be nice. I can trade some brand new never used all blue and all cool white 3X1 epistar bulbs if interested. Have a ton of 60 degree optics too. That 'luky' seller lots of people buy from will do the mixed ones I've been in contact0 with them recently regarding some crappy purple LEDs I bought from them and they wont be able to do or sell anything for another 2-3weeks. They are celebrating chinese new years soon. If you check their store, they already took everything down. Quote Link to comment
Belac Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 I suspect your going to run into the new years problem for most chinese sellers. Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Yep, not much we can do about that :/ Quote Link to comment
Belac Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Yeah I just put in some orders today and yesterday I hope they ship before they start celebration. (I really don't remember when they celebrate this year, I just know its close to Valentines day every year.) Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 [...]3x1's with no optics[...] If you have the option, or can buy extra lenses (they're cheap), IME you'll like your results better with 120º lenses than running without lenses. It's nominally the same, but since the LED's are recessed in the heatsink the lenses bring more light out of the shade of the housing and the light looks better when lensed IMO. -Matt Quote Link to comment
lambertdavisj Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 alright so i plan on upgrading to a 29 gallon tank is that too high? i wanna keep sps and lps the only softies i keep are a few mushrooms and zoas so if i use the lights how many blue to white will i need? i want a 16-20K look for sps i wanna have montis and millis maybe a few acros and prolly a birdnest Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I searched this thread, and have found no mention other than my own of using these with glass tops. Anyone have some idea? I know with fluorescent/MH it is minimal (around 4-8% intensity lost with clean glass). I dont see why it would be different with LED's...but again, id hate to set one of these up with a frag tank and get reduced growth and not realize it for 6 months. Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I searched this thread, and have found no mention other than my own of using these with glass tops. Anyone have some idea? I know with fluorescent/MH it is minimal (around 4-8% intensity lost with clean glass). I dont see why it would be different with LED's...but again, id hate to set one of these up with a frag tank and get reduced growth and not realize it for 6 months. PPG makes Starphire which is the epitome of clear and maximal transmittance as far as what's typically found in aquariums. You can Google and find their official specs (down to the wavelength) on that pretty easily. Wikipedia also has some good info on transmittancs and glass. In a nutshell (and from memory), best case scenario with the best perfectly clean Starphire you lose ~10%. 20-30% wih more common varieties of glass. -Matt Quote Link to comment
Belac Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I guess that means I am loseing my glass cover when I finish my lights, depending on how bright they are. I am going to have to build a mesh one I guess. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.