my "CUSTOM"SeaLife 30" DUAL 70w MH retro conversion

[KrackerG]

WoW..nice modd, Jim!! I like how you did your cabling...neat idea with the universal pin connectors. Could they both come out from the same side? Then again, I see how your actinic bulbs are staggered.

 

Recessing the MH socket in the hood is a great idea, maybe another way you could of done it was the remove the ceramic parts of the MH socket and just cut 2 slits and feed the bracket part through the reflector...thus eliminating the need for the regent reflector piece...just an idea. I may do the same to mine, my MH bulbs sit about 1/2 inch from the glass surface but I havent had any glass breakage issues. And yes, fans are important. BTW, I've havent ran 150's so your beyond me there. Good work again, and thanks for sharing the pics!

[AdamChris76]

Kracker

Could you please write, where i can buy CSL light (it is 24" Orbit 2x65w Power Compact & Lunar Light Strip New?)

and what i have to buy and where? 2x 70HQI or 1x150 whats better (tank 24Lx12Wx16H)

 

please, please:)

[ReefMonkeee]

you can get the CSL Light at marinedepot.com or bigalsonline.com i believe. Cant believe this thing is still alive been almost a year now that this is thread is here.

[MacnReef]

Sorry if I missed it but why did you go with Aromat ballasts over the WPI that you used on the other fixture? I have a 29 and would love to do a 30" fixture with 2-70W HQI's.

 

Mike

[Newby-Reefer]

Can we see this light in action over a tank?

[jimsflies]

Kracker,

 

I decided to put the wires on the two sides to stagger the bulbs for more coverage. Wished I could find a 30-inch long PC bulb, then I could get a little more light on the ends.

 

I originally was going to just have the connectors prutruding from the stock reflector like you described, but to get a little more space between the bulb and reflector I went with the secondary reflector.

 

I will try to get a whole tank shot and post it so everyone can see it over the tank.

 

 

AdamChris76,

 

I doubt you need two bulbs for 24-inches. I personally think a 150w would be perfect.

 

I like the 150w over my 29, I have been thinking about 2 150's, my light could be more on the ends of the tank. I will remotely mount the pc ballasts if I do this. The pc ballasts produce about as much heat as the 150 bulb, IMO.

[pomby27]

did you guys hang it over your tank, or just put it straight over the tank like regular pcs hoods

[jimsflies]

Mine is still on the factory legs standing on my tank. Tank heat hasn't been an issue.

 

I have been thinking about hanging it so that it "cleans" up the look of the top of the tank. Has anyone ever hung a csl? I'd like to see what they did and how it looks.

[alien4fish]

ok, now i know i havent posted here in a while, Kracker, i want to do this to my jbj 48" inch 65 watt pc. that i have on my 90 i was thinkin about doing just 1 150 watt hqi in the ctr of the fixture, has anyone here done this mod ?? and is the 70 watt HQI the same size legnth etc etc. as the 150 hqi??

[alien4fish]

and do you think if did 2 70 watt hqi installs would the lite penetrate deep enuf to reach the bottom of a 90 gal?

[Tasher80]

I don't have a nano tank but a friend of mine was talking about this thread. This has prompted me to modify my CSL 48" fixture and add two DE 250 Watt metal halides. I was looking on HelloLights.com and found the ballasts, bulbs, and sockets. I just keep seeing small reflectors behind the bulbs. Does that come with the socket or is it a small reflector piece that is purchased and cut seperatley? This is a great idea I am glad you documented this so well. I will be able to get my metal halides for Half the cost of a new PFO hood.

[jimsflies]

Tasher80,

 

The small reflector I used is from a regent work light fixture like home depot or lowes carries. I think any small sheet metal bent behind the bulb would do the same thing.

[Mutton Mogul]

Just for clarification, the "Current USA PowerCompact Orbit Fixtures" will not be compatible for the MH conversions?

 

There was a post requesting information regarding the Current Orbit, and it said to poke around for info regarding the CSL mods...

 

Thanks in advance.

[Kabuto]

I think the only difference between the CSLs and the Orbit is that Current USA went with a plastic housing where the CSLs were metal. I doubt it would be a problem if you have sufficient fan cooling in the housing. I wouldn't mind hearing if someone has done this mod to an Orbit housing. I am looking at doing a 70w MH on my 30" Orbit in the future.

[rbeirne]

The Current USA Orbits may feel like plastic housing but in fact are metal. They are the exact same unit as the CSL just repackaged with the Current-USA name. CSL just sold them the product line when they went out of business.

[rbeirne]

The Current USA Orbits may feel like plastic housing but in fact are metal. They are the exact same unit as the CSL just repackaged with the Current-USA name. CSL just sold them the product line when they went out of business.

[chrisat]

I completed a 70w MH mod to my Current USA Orbit 24" fixture. Everything appeared to go well until the glass cracked from the heat of the MH bulb. I purchased UV glass from Michaels which came to over $30. I have read numberous forums about UV glass and they go on and on about the UV tranmission properties of different glass, acrlyics, etc.

 

I seems like there have been quite a few people to sucessfully complete this mod and I was wondering if someone could give me a simple answer. What would be the best glass that I could get that will shield UV and handle the heat? Also where could I purchase it?

 

Thanks,

Chris

[ralegen]

Originally posted by chrisat

Everything appeared to go well until the glass cracked from the heat of the MH bulb.  

 

How long did it take to break?

[chrisat]

I think it took about 15-30 minutes. One thing I failed to mention, but originally I didn't upgrade the fan, but since then I did. I glued the glass back together so I could test the difference in heat with the better fan and not crack a new peice of glass. I still think it will crack if I leave it on long enough because it gets hot enough that you can easily burn yourself if you touch the glass. Maybe the bulb is too close, but it seems that most people with the 70w MH upgrade have not recessed the light and have not had issues. I would consider recessing it, but how would I mount it? Curently it is mounted to the front of the refector.

[jimsflies]

Chrisat-

 

Back on the previous page, I have pics of the mod I did where I recessed mounted the light into the fixture. You cut the reflector, then the attach the socket with screws into the rail/ridge that is located along the inside top of the csl/orbit fixture. Its the same rail that the pc ballasts screw in to. I don't have a pic of this, unfortunately.

 

Also, I used tempered glass for my 150 and have had no problems. I am running two computer fans on a slectable voltage adaptor. They are set to run at 9volts which keeps them quiet and still moves a lot of air. The glass will burn you if you touch it...but if you use tempered it is designed for higher temp applications. I have had no problems with UV either.

 

[speakeraddict]

I have a 30" Coralife 2x55 fixture on my 29. I would like to mod it to use only one of the 55's (actinic) and a 150watt MH. Do you think it would work?

 

speakeraddict

[speakeraddict]

I have a 30" Coralife 2x55 fixture on my 29. I would like to mod it to use only one of the 55's (actinic) and a 150watt MH. Do you think it would work?

 

speakeraddict

[crrichey]

Would you say that the Current USA fixture would make a good substitution for the CSL hood?

[bradfod2nd]

I am very interested in this topic. I am currently in the stage of planning my tank. My tanks has a 30" top and this fixture would fit and look perfectly. The only probably that I forsaw was the amount of light the fixture put out. But from seeing this thread, it looks to be very possible to mod the existing fixture to get a little more power out of it.

 

I am curretnly looking at the Current USA fixture and I too am curious if that fixutre applies to this thread?

 

I may have other questions when I get my hood.

 

thanks

[KrackerG]

WoW! surprised to see this thread still going! :o

 

UPDATE:

i have since taken my 20L tank down because of personal reasons. i still have my 20" setup running strong (1 70w MH and 2 40w PC) . maintaining 2 separate tanks was more time consuming than i had imagined. no free time.

 

for those that are having glass breaking issues, check to make sure you have enough airflow within the hood. my glass did get hot, but i never expirenced a broken shield. and i ran my MH for 6+ hours. you may want to try what the others have suggested...recess the MH socket within the reflector...or run stronger fans.

 

Custom SeaLife (CSL) is no longer in business. the new company is Current USA. Their hoods should be exactly similar to the CSL hood I used...however, personally...i have not used one. i do people that are using it modded just the same as mine. also, i have no expirence using 150w MH so you guys are on your own there.

 

KrackerG@yahoo.com