kgbenson Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 Very cool - nice work! Keith Link to comment
steguis Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 I finally got the last piece I needed to complete this DIY today....the 16 1/" x 30" UV protected glass. After leaving the halides on for just a few minutes, I finally understand what all this fuss is about. That is some serious brightness going on in my tank right now. The shimmer effect is awesome and I'm glad that I can soon finally get an anemone for my tomato clowns (anemones need a lot of light). Kudos to KrackerG for getting this started as well as to Reefer_Buddha. If I didn't have this thread along with the other 20" CLS mod, I don't think I would've had enough nerves to start ripping my one and only light fixture apart. BTW, I only did the MH mod (one 70W). I didn't remove the stock fan since it wasn't making any noise and I still love the two moonlights. Reef night life is sooooo interesting (just get a serpent start and you'll know what I mean). Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 stegius, im glad you like the mod, im glad krakerG did it too because i was driving myself nuts with those regent fixtures. Now you see why MH is the ###### i intentionally put a powerhead near the surface for more shimmer and for better PH. MH with actinic and 10k is all ya need. Link to comment
jasontatro Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 Originally posted by steguis I'm glad that I can soon finally get an anemone for my tomato clowns (anemones need a lot of light). Do anemones a favor and ... JUST SAY NO!!!! Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 well i got some regular "float glass" since everyone around here doesnt know what the hell im talking about when i say UV protective glass, they all say "YOU MEAN LOW E GLASS?" which is 2 panes thick. So what im gona do since the regent fixtures i have already have uv protected glass and fit almost perfectly the width of the hood is just bond the uv glass to the regular float glass where the halide is. Link to comment
steguis Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Originally posted by jasontatro Do anemones a favor and ... JUST SAY NO!!!! I don't mean to stray to far from this topic, but why do you advise me to "JUST SAY NO" to anemonies? I actually did quite a bit of research on everything reef related before I even bought one piece of equipment and I don't think it's impossible to have an anemone in a 29 Gallon "nano". Here are my tank specs/parameters. 29 Gallon tank w/ 20L Sump/Fuge (with chaetomorpha) Amiracle Overflow Mag 7 return pump 2 Maxi-Jet 600's with on a wavemaker timer Lighting - 200W (130W PC + 70W MH, now that I'm done with the mod) 60lbs Fiji LR 30 LBS LS SG: 1.025 PH: 8.3 Ammonia: undetectable Nitrite: undetectable Nitrate: undetectable Temp: 79 - 81F I'm not saying I'm correct, I just want further input as to why I shouldn't attempt having an anemone. Honestly, I feel that maintaining an anemone is a true test of a reefer's skill than trying to keep SPS or Clams since all you really need to get the latter to grow is enough money to buy strong lights and an excellent skimmer to keep the water clear. If anyone else has any input on this, please let me know now as I am planning on getting my BTA this Saturday (March 6. 2004). Thanks, Steguis Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 you want a true test grow dendronephyta and keep a mandarin Link to comment
jasontatro Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 It's not a matter of being able to maintain an anemone. The fact of the matter is that pretty much all anemones sold in stores are wild caught. It is believed that some of these are near 100 years old. If you were to go to a reef and take a bunch of coral and return in ten years it would have all grown back and then some. Do the same at a reef that has anemones and you will come back in ten years and you will not see the population re-growth. These animals are very slow to reproduce. Support the wild populations and just say no. Link to comment
KrackerG Posted March 5, 2004 Author Share Posted March 5, 2004 Hey guys! Oh man, have I been busy! Just bought a new car and work has been taking all my free time...booo! Im just dropping in for an update and see what's going on. I still have to post more photos of the light on my tank, which has been doing awesome so far btw...I LOVE IT! -- Reefer_Buddha: AWESOME!!! GOOD JOB BRO, glad you got your done!! Now once the 10KK PC burns out, maybe try using 2 Actinics (too much you think? ...but I am using 2 70w MH....hmmm) As for the glass, who really knows what's the best...huh?! I started a thread a little while back about glass/plexiglas...hoping to clear up some confusion...got some mixed up answers, but I still believe 97% UV Blocking glass is what we should be using. I am using 97% UV Blocking gass. Oh good news BTW, been looking around, I went to a local art chain store, Michael's Arts and Crafts and they cut/sell UV shielded glass. They use it for pictures becuase they fade over time. YES! So check around and see if you have a local Michael's nearby. Got Shimmer!!?!?! -- BeerMu and SDMike, I've included a picture of the "Worklight" that I used for my hood. Acutally, the bracket from a regent QF300 or simuliar is a better bracket, but imo, the "worklight" sockets are, hands down, the best. The bulb fit PERFECTLY, no bending, no cracking. Plus both bulb contacts have spring to them making bulb changes a breeze. Oh hey SDMike, I have the stock 120v fan that came w/ the hood...it's yours since your having a hard time finding one...$10. Gutting the computer power suppy is fun! I love electronics!! -- Steguis, keep an eye on temps up there....that stock fan is weak. Excellent DIY...show us your work... Thanks for the all the props, fellas! However, I am a true believer about taking and giving credit when credit is due, and I owe a lot to YOU GUYS here...reefriot DIY regent lighting was a HUGE influence on my work...I just took it one step in another direction. Plus when it comes time that I need advise/help w/ my corals, guess who I'm gonna' be asking!! Thanks again and I hope to post more here again soon!! Link to comment
Chyendra Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Hey, HD doesn't carry the Regent QF300 fixtures in my town, and they also can't special order them for me... Kracker, Does the ushio bulb fit into the worklight in your picture? Link to comment
KrackerG Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 Hey Chyendra, ...here in the Washington DC area, the QF300 are an unknown animal as well. You may be finding the EQ300WL, GP500, HQ500 all of which should work. Look for the worklight pitured above. When you do buy the regent (worklight) fixture, regardless of which model, there are 2 wires coming off the socket...a black and a white. Connect these 2 wires to the black and white bulb leadswires using the orange caps. Insert your Ushio bulb (dont touch the glass w/ fingers!!!) Plug in the FAN power and you should notice the fan spinning. Then plug in the POWER cord Wait a bit to warm up...and THAT's IT! BTW, here is your ballast, Cheyndra!! shipping out tomorrow morning....enjoyB) Link to comment
Mai Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 If you can't get the fixture use this. I got this along with my ballast Link to comment
KrackerG Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 no mai, i disagree. those sockets are not necessary. in fact i bought 2 sets..they didnt work as easy becuase you have to make sure the distance between the bulb is set correctly... BTW....anybody want them?? not 13.50 ...only $10:) Link to comment
Mai Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 KrackerG I mean if he can't find the fixture. These sockets work Link to comment
theclearblue Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 KrackerG So did you use that HM500 as a pendant with metal halide in it, or did you just pull the brackets and socket from it? Link to comment
KrackerG Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 just the sockets and bracket the 2 sockets are attached to...i usedd 2 worklights:P Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 check your pm's kracker Link to comment
manwe Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Ok, so I decided I want to give this mod a shot on my 24" CSL. I've done very little wiring in my life so I'm having some trouble following this mod. I attempted to throw together a VERY rudimentary wiring diagram based on what I "think" I know based on these two threads. Please take a look and correct any mistakes you see (I'm sure there are plenty). Keep in mind that I didn't include much detail in the wiring of the pre-existing components in the CSL fixture just because I didn't think it was necessary since they weren't really being changed and I was running out of colors . Also, the position of components in the diagram doesn't indicate there real location in the fixture. I just placed them in the most convienient place to make the diagram easier for me to read. It quickly became obvious that my biggest source of mystery is the fans and how they are wired into everything. I left all the fan wiring out because I just couldn't figure it out. If you could explain that a little more it would be great. I'm probably actually going to do a mod closer to RB's 30" mod. (1 70W instead of 2) but I want to understand his and Kracker's both fully before I decide. Ok, first time attached a picture so here goes. Wiring Diagram version 1.0 Link to comment
KrackerG Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 If your going to use just one MH, then you only need to run a single pair (blue wire). 18AWG (gauge) is all you will need. Use a computer power cord, and just cut off the ends. I used 14AWG ‘cause I wanted to run one single line from the ballast box to the hood. 14/4 means 4 pair 14AWG…oh, you could look for 18/4 if you can find it. I couldn’t… BTW, the thicker the gauge(lower the number), thicker the wire… which is important when running long distances. FANS- - For the fans, you want to use another separate power source. Use a 12 volt (or adjustable 9v, 7v) power transformer very similar to the one that powers the LED moons. In fact, you could use a single 12v power transformer to power the fans and the moons…BUT NOT the one that came w/ the CSL hood. 300mAh (I think??) is not enough… If you use a single 12 volt power supply to power all 3 fans (ballast box and 2 in the hood), that means you need to run another line from the box to the hood or you will need 2 12v PS (2 too many!) Go to any computer store (CompUSA) or shop online and get 3 12 volt quiet, high CFM fans. Cut the end off the 12 power supply(Radio Shack) and wire positive(red +) and negative(black -) linking together each fan. The PS I’m using says, Output: 12 VDC 600mAh. BTW, your diagram is PERFECT!!! Thanks! LOL! Go back and edit it drawing 2 thin lines (red/black) connecting each fan to the wall socket w/ a black box and link them to the hood. GET TIMERS! Regardless tho, you will end up w/ TONS of timers…notice the last pic… Until I get my camera back, I can’t post any new pics:( here are some pics to help! Link to comment
KrackerG Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 also:P ...plan your drilling...drill carefully, especially the reflector! AND GLASS...got a Michael's Arts and Crafts near ya'?? Link to comment
imsuperjp Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 I was wandering if a comple noob who doesnt know what a ballast is would be able to do this DIY. Can anyone give a list of places where i can get these parts and also http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...3565&in_merch=1 is this hte same light or a different one? Can u tell me where i can find this light? Link to comment
manwe Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Thanks for the fan explanation. I updated the diagram to reflect that. I think I got it right. All the fans just wired in serial to a single 12V power supply. The only other thing I didn't include were switches. How are your switches laid out? I'm guessing it's something like this: (2) 1 each for the PCs 1 total for all three fans 1 total for the MHs (power supply switch?) 1 total for the moon light 5 total switches (4 on the CSL fixture, 1 on the power supply) One other question. If I decide to do only a single MH, do I need the computer power supply, or can I just leave the ballast exposed. I don't know if you chose to put the ballasts in a power supply just because it was more convenient to have everything in one box, or if there was another reason (they get too hot to not be contained in something?) Link to comment
manwe Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Oh, and there is a Michael's about 3 miles from my front door so I'm all set there Link to comment
beermu Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 How much does the Michael's glass cost? Based on what I've read, Lexan XL (some type of UV protected plastic) from Home Depot will also work and it only cost $7-8 per sheet of 12x24". Link to comment
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