TimDanger's CADlights 39g Pro

[becact]

You're right, it's a good idea to let it acclimate to your tank first before breaking it up, but yeah, it's really just as simple as grabbing it and snapping it. Breaking it up has a few advantages: more area on the rock or plug to grow a base from, more branching growth from the break points, the stress may cause a growth spurt, and if one stalk dies you'd still have two more.

 

It can take weeks or months for an SPS to get its color back after being fragged. Some of mine are still brown from the move several months ago. So don't worry about that

[Aquabacs]

Tank is looking good, best of luck with the SPS!

 

How is the overflow working out with the modification you did? Sill silent?

 

Mike

[timdanger]

Well, my mp10 woke me up at like 4am making a clicking/grinding sound. It wasn't anything like the typical mp10 whirring that you get at 100% power (and I was running Night Mode (Reef Crest) at the time, which is pretty quiet).

 

I tried to turn it off and turn it back on, I tried to move it around, but it wasn't helping. So, I ended up just turning it off until this morning. I took the wet side out, rinsed it under some tap water and spun the propeller manually a little bit, then put it back in. that actually appears to have fixed it, at least for now. i am still going to call ecotech to see if they have any suggestions in the meantime, but this is kind of frustrating.

 

i am so tired of this thing waking me up in the middle of the night. it seems like it's at least once a week, for one reason or another.

 

Tank is looking good, best of luck with the SPS!

 

How is the overflow working out with the modification you did? Sill silent?

 

Mike

 

thanks Mike!

 

re: the overflow, which mod are you referring to? if you are referring to replacing the durso, i actually never had to do that because when I put the Tunze return pump into the system, it silenced the overflow, the drain and the return line all at once.

 

my overflow is definitely silent now, for better or for worse. now that it's not making constant racket, smaller things (fish splashing, etc.) wake me up all the time.

 

You're right, it's a good idea to let it acclimate to your tank first before breaking it up, but yeah, it's really just as simple as grabbing it and snapping it. Breaking it up has a few advantages: more area on the rock or plug to grow a base from, more branching growth from the break points, the stress may cause a growth spurt, and if one stalk dies you'd still have two more.

 

It can take weeks or months for an SPS to get its color back after being fragged. Some of mine are still brown from the move several months ago. So don't worry about that

 

B, I feel like this is the direction I am going to go (breaking up the slimer stick), but how long do you think I should wait before doing that, acclimation-period wise?

[becact]

I think one or two weeks should be fine, but use your judgment. If it looks like it's struggling, hold off. The longer the better

[timdanger]

I think one or two weeks should be fine, but use your judgment. If it looks like it's struggling, hold off. The longer the better

 

thanks B.

 

re: "struggling," I posted another thread about a small white area (about 2 polyps total) on the bottom of the slimer. basically, it's a very small area, hasn't noticeably gotten worse over the past 36 hours. my Mg was at 1000, which caused my Ca to sink to as low as 360 (i managed to get it up to 390), and my alk had fallen to 7.5dkh (but that's probably about as low as it went).

 

So, I did a 10% water change last night, did a quarter dose of calcium and a full dose of alk 2-part. i also added the max allowable dosage of seachem Mg, and I'll do the same thing again tonight (related note: i need to buy a Mg test kit -- I don't know how Mg has dropped so low despite my regular water changes. where is it going??).

 

I fear STN, but it's also very possible that the area that's turned white has come into contact with the coral fix putty, or that it was crushed while i was mounting the frag. i also wonder if maybe it's just where it's getting ready to grow/encrust (this might be wishful thinking)? but, the thing that gets me is that it hasn't apparently gotten worse, and i don't see any signs of the tissue falling off, and the rest of the frag seems fine.

 

thoughts? anyone else want to chime in?

[becact]

Don't think it's STN, probably just chemical stress from the putty like you said. You definitely need to get your basic three in line though before the SPS can do well . By the way, don't use Salifert for Alk, they are inaccurate. Elos or Lamotte are good for that measurement.

 

Your Mg is probably low because the salt mix you're using is low. I use brightwell but still need to add two teaspoons of dry Mg per 5g water change bucket to keep my levels stable. Also, I do a 15% change weekly.

[timdanger]

Don't think it's STN, probably just chemical stress from the putty like you said. You definitely need to get your basic three in line though before the SPS can do well . By the way, don't use Salifert for Alk, they are inaccurate. Elos or Lamotte are good for that measurement.

 

Your Mg is probably low because the salt mix you're using is low. I use brightwell but still need to add two teaspoons of dry Mg per 5g water change bucket to keep my levels stable. Also, I do a 15% change weekly.

 

i'm using Elos for both Ca and Alk. Was planning to buy an Elos Mg test kit, until: this.

 

i saw your Brightwell Magnesion-P review on MD! I still might have to buy that, despite the above link.

[becact]

I don't think the Brightwell Mg is really the best, though. Brightwell's basic chemistry skills suck, and so do a lot of their products. I just bought that because I needed to add a few bucks to my order to get the free shipping. I may or not stick to their salt when this bucket runs out. For Mg I'd probably use the BRS stuff.

[timdanger]

I don't think the Brightwell Mg is really the best, though. Brightwell's basic chemistry skills suck, and so do a lot of their products. I just bought that because I needed to add a few bucks to my order to get the free shipping. I may or not stick to their salt when this bucket runs out. For Mg I'd probably use the BRS stuff.

 

you think so? one of the LFSs around here is a big fan, so I decided to try them out for the 2-part, since it seemed reasonably priced and I was familiar with the name.

 

what about the chemistry sucks? Just for the Mg, or all Brightwell products? just curious to hear what about it makes it bad.

 

if the Mg in their salt mix needs to be supplemented, that seems problematic to me. i personally just use whatever salt my LFS sells pre-mixed (as i still haven't invested in an RODI system), but I do remember hearing something about the Mg in one of them running a little low in the mix.

[becact]

The LFS loves them because they have pretty labels and sell well.

 

For example, my tub of dry Mg lists "Guaranteed Analysis (by weight)" as 43% Magnesium. It also lists the only two ingredients as anhydrous Mg Sulfate and Mg Chloride. Pure MgSO4 is about 20% Mg by weight, and MgCl2 is somewhere in that range as well (can't find the exact figure right now- you can look it up though). Therefore, it is impossible for a combination of these two anhydrous salts to be 40% Mg by weight. Perhaps he added them, but that's not how it works (it is supposed to be a weighted average).

 

Also, on the brightwell salt container there are incorrect significant digits. For example, the Ca ion concentration is claimed to be 413.000 ppm in natural seawater and 413.000 in his salt. In fact there are three decimal places used for each ion concentration. This use of sig figs is wrong.

 

These are both elementary mistakes that any first semester chemistry student would be marked off for, and any student past a first semester course would simply not make. I'd expect more from a real "marine biologist." Randy over on RC also dislikes their products and his scientific thoughts on the matter (there are many posted if you search in the chem forum) are part of what led me to dislike the line of products.

 

If I remember correctly the brightwell salt I have mixes to about 1150 Mg. Not terrible, but I bring it up to about 1350 before changing the water. I also need to add calcium, as the mixes water comes out to about 380. And yes, this is with a salinity solution calibrated refractometer reading of 35 ppt.

[timdanger]

Was planning to buy an Elos Mg test kit, until: this.

 

so, i went out to my car this morning to notice that some jerk stole the hood emblem off my car. at least the hood will now match the wheel where the emblem was also stolen. also had GPS/satellite radio stolen out of my car last year about this time. I LIVE IN THE F'ING SUBURBS FOR CRYING OUT LOUD. called the dealership, it is $45 to replace the hood emblem, and $15-20 to replace the wheel one.

 

oh well. when it rains, it pours.

 

The LFS loves them because they have pretty labels and sell well.

 

For example, my tub of dry Mg lists "Guaranteed Analysis (by weight)" as 43% Magnesium. It also lists the only two ingredients as anhydrous Mg Sulfate and Mg Chloride. Pure MgSO4 is about 20% Mg by weight, and MgCl2 is somewhere in that range as well (can't find the exact figure right now- you can look it up though). Therefore, it is impossible for a combination of these two anhydrous salts to be 40% Mg by weight. Perhaps he added them, but that's not how it works (it is supposed to be a weighted average).

 

Also, on the brightwell salt container there are incorrect significant digits. For example, the Ca ion concentration is claimed to be 413.000 ppm in natural seawater and 413.000 in his salt. In fact there are three decimal places used for each ion concentration. This use of sig figs is wrong.

 

These are both elementary mistakes that any first semester chemistry student would be marked off for, and any student past a first semester course would simply not make. I'd expect more from a real "marine biologist." Randy over on RC also dislikes their products and his scientific thoughts on the matter (there are many posted if you search in the chem forum) are part of what led me to dislike the line of products.

 

If I remember correctly the brightwell salt I have mixes to about 1150 Mg. Not terrible, but I bring it up to about 1350 before changing the water. I also need to add calcium, as the mixes water comes out to about 380. And yes, this is with a salinity solution calibrated refractometer reading of 35 ppt.

 

interesting stuff - i'll have to read up on that water chemistry forum.

 

that's disappointing about the salt -- 380 for Ca and 1150 for Mg are both too low for a mix. frankly, if they are saying that the concentration is 413(.000, this is lame, probably for marketing) but it's actually 380, they have a serious potential legal problem there. because that's not even close.

[spencers]

so, i went out to my car this morning to notice that some jerk stole the hood emblem off my car. at least the hood will now match the wheel where the emblem was also stolen. also had GPS/satellite radio stolen out of my car last year about this time. I LIVE IN THE F'ING SUBURBS FOR CRYING OUT LOUD. called the dealership, it is $45 to replace the hood emblem, and $15-20 to replace the wheel one.

Sounds similar to the pricing for my bmw. Ridiculous.

Can't go wrong with buying off ebay....

[timdanger]

Sounds similar to the pricing for my bmw. Ridiculous.

 

haha -- well, that would make sense -- '99 323i here. love the car, hate the cost of maintenance. i go back and forth as to whether i'd buy another. but, mine is still going along pretty well, so i don't think about it much.

 

Can't go wrong with buying off ebay....

 

that's the plan, at this point. i wonder if i'll be buying the one that was stolen off mine!

[timdanger]

Randy over on RC also dislikes their products and his scientific thoughts on the matter (there are many posted if you search in the chem forum) are part of what led me to dislike the line of products.

 

I read a bunch of his posts about Brightwell products yesterday -- holy crap, you aren't kidding. this guy posts in every reef chemistry thread that mentions Brightwell, it seems! sounds like a personal vendetta, almost. i say almost, because i think his analysis makes a lot of sense in some places.

 

that being said, i think the most valuable thing you get from his diatribes is the 2 part recipe. I agree with you that Bulk Reef Supply seems to have the best offering here. I could buy 2L of Reef Code A/B for $25+shipping from Marine Depot... or I could buy 3-4 gal. of BRS calc/alk + 1 gal. of Mg + 3 mixing jugs + measuring cup + pump dispensers from BRS for $41 + shipping (or i could skip the jugs and pay $11 plus shipping for pre-meausred pouches to make 1gal. of calc/alk + 20oz of Mg).

 

it really kind of makes you think, though -- where is the value in the Brightwell 2-part (or any other brand's 2-part for that matter)? that it's pre-mixed? am i missing something here?

[new2reef]

definitely. i love it. the mp10 was the most necessary upgrade for my tank, but the tunze pump has definitely been the purchase i've been most pleased/impressed with.

 

I'm also thinking about the replacing the stock CAD return pump with the Tunze 1073.020. One question. Return BH is 1/2", but Tunze has 3/4" connections. Was it easy to convert Tunze to connect to 1/2" tubing (PVC parts you can find at HD or Lowe's)?

 

Great thread and great looking tank. Thanks for posting your progress - info has been very helpful.

[timdanger]

I'm also thinking about the replacing the stock CAD return pump with the Tunze 1073.020. One question. Return BH is 1/2", but Tunze has 3/4" connections. Was it easy to convert Tunze to connect to 1/2" tubing (PVC parts you can find at HD or Lowe's)?

 

Great thread and great looking tank. Thanks for posting your progress - info has been very helpful.

 

i haven't measured anything to be sure, but the tubing that came with my cad was 3/4". it fits snug-ly to the return bulkhead, and i use a hose clamp to hold it in place. that runs down to a 3/4" gate valve (barb fittings on both sides), and after that valve, i continue with the same 3/4" tubing down to the tunze. i use hose clamps at each side of the gate valve and on the tunze barb.

 

that's all i have. haven't had any issues. it was really pretty "plug and play."

[new2reef]

i haven't measured anything to be sure, but the tubing that came with my cad was 3/4". it fits snug-ly to the return bulkhead, and i use a hose clamp to hold it in place. that runs down to a 3/4" gate valve (barb fittings on both sides), and after that valve, i continue with the same 3/4" tubing down to the tunze. i use hose clamps at each side of the gate valve and on the tunze barb.

 

that's all i have. haven't had any issues. it was really pretty "plug and play."

 

Thanks for the info - I like the barbed gate value idea. Do you have a photo of it?

 

I have an older model CAD 39g Pro, so several things are different. I just looked at your pictures on pg 1, and it's different tubing. Yours is clear, while mine is green (it's smaller than 3/4", but bigger than 5/8").

 

Do you remember whether the return connection to Tunze can be unscrewed? I'm thinking I could replace with a custom 1/2" PVC connection.

[timdanger]

Thanks for the info - I like the barbed gate value idea. Do you have a photo of it?

 

at the moment, i don't believe i have a close-up picture of this, but i can take one next time i'm taking pictures (probably in the next couple of days). it's pretty simple though -- you just get a threaded connection gate valve, and then the hardware store (I go to Lowe's) sells threaded barbs that you tape with teflon tape and then screw into the gate valve. then the hose just slides right over the barb, and you clamp it in place with a hose clamp.

 

I have an older model CAD 39g Pro, so several things are different. I just looked at your pictures on pg 1, and it's different tubing. Yours is clear, while mine is green (it's smaller than 3/4", but bigger than 5/8").

 

as i recall, i had to heat my tubing up with a hair dryer and really force the thing on there to make it fit on the return bulkhead connection that came with my Cad. maybe doing that will help you get the 3/4" to work with the tubing you already have. if not, it's easy to find 3/4" tubing at Lowe's/Home Depot.

 

Do you remember whether the return connection to Tunze can be unscrewed? I'm thinking I could replace with a custom 1/2" PVC connection.

 

yes, it can. it comes with two (seemingly) identical connections.

[new2reef]

I just placed my order for a Tunze 1073.020! I wanted a smaller, quieter and cooler pump for the CAD, and you're thread made it simple to pick one! Thanks!

 

No rush on the photos - whenever you have time. Agree, Lowe's seems best for those types of parts.

 

I was thinking either hairdryer or hot water to soften up the tubes to fit on connections. I'm wondering if the stock LifeTech pump is a 3/4" connection - it's definitely not 1/2"!

[timdanger]

I just placed my order for a Tunze 1073.020! I wanted a smaller, quieter and cooler pump for the CAD, and you're thread made it simple to pick one! Thanks!

 

glad to help! i love the pump. definitely good stuff, so long as you have supplemental flow for the display tank.

 

I was thinking either hairdryer or hot water to soften up the tubes to fit on connections. I'm wondering if the stock LifeTech pump is a 3/4" connection - it's definitely not 1/2"!

 

i figure the LifeTech stock pump must be 3/4". i don't think i had any trouble fitting it to the stock tubing.

[timdanger]

Added a Tunze 6025 to the left-rear side of the tank last night for some extra water movement. the undertow from my mp10 has been taking all the sand from the front of the tank and moving it to the back. doesn't create a sandstorm -- just pulls it back there gradually. i need to do a "top off" on my DSB, so maybe i'll take some of the sand out of the display and put it into the DSB, and then add a little bit of courser grain sand to the display to cut down on that.

 

Re: SPS, both the digitata and the slimer are doing well. digitata is showing very nice polyp extension. slimer had a small white spot on it near the base, but that actually seems to be improving, not worsening. so, that's good.

 

as of 2/1, my water is testing at:

 

Ca 450ppm

Alk 8dkh

Mg: 1500

Salinity: 1.026

Nitrate: 0

Phosphate: 0

 

Pic updates coming soon.

[timdanger]

new pic of my sump (i just cleaned out my skimmer collection cup for the first time since installing!). chaeto is out the wazoo.

 

New Tunze 6025 installed on my back wall!

 

injury from Tunze magnet, over a week after it happened. blood blister is healing nicely, at least! unfrigginbelievable how strong that magnet is. i had to pry it apart with kitchen knives to get them apart (after the first mishap, i got a little gunshy):

 

and another jawfish picture:

[thegambler26]

nice live rock they got great coralline spread. HOw hard is your jawfish to keep I've been thinking of getting one myself?

[mkregs]

injury from Tunze magnet, over a week after it happened. blood blister is healing nicely, at least! unfrigginbelievable how strong that magnet is. i had to pry it apart with kitchen knives to get them apart (after the first mishap, i got a little gunshy):

I'm sorry that I laughed after I read this

 

I have a Tunze 9002 skimmer in one of my tanks and have done the same thing. Those magnets are crazy strong. I am ashamed to admit that I actually damaged myself twice with it. Good thing my kids weren't around when it happened (due to the colorful language that followed).

 

Mark

[timdanger]

I'm sorry that I laughed after I read this

 

I have a Tunze 9002 skimmer in one of my tanks and have done the same thing. Those magnets are crazy strong. I am ashamed to admit that I actually damaged myself twice with it. Good thing my kids weren't around when it happened (due to the colorful language that followed).

 

Mark

 

i was shocked! i've never seen magnets that strong, so it caught me by surprise.

 

nice live rock they got great coralline spread. HOw hard is your jawfish to keep I've been thinking of getting one myself?

 

mine is super easy. but, you need to make sure you have a tight-fitting lid with no larger than 1/4" holes. mine regularly jumps up into my lid, especially at night. and, it managed to jump through eggcrate. so, that's the biggest thing.

 

also, they are going to rearrange your sand daily. so, best not to have super fine (oolite) sand, and make sure you have sturdy rockwork, because the jawfish's excavation could cause a cave-in.

 

if your'e talking about a bluespotted jawfish, you should try and keep the temperature reasonably low, as the bluespot is a slightly cooler water species.