Jump to content
Cultivated Reef

TimDanger's CADlights 39g Pro


timdanger

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 569
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Hey Tim,

 

Sounds like you highly recommend the new return pump you picked up. I think I'm going to pick one up as well to quiet down my system. Thanks for the info and pics.

Link to comment
Hey Tim,

 

Sounds like you highly recommend the new return pump you picked up. I think I'm going to pick one up as well to quiet down my system. Thanks for the info and pics.

 

definitely. i love it. the mp10 was the most necessary upgrade for my tank, but the tunze pump has definitely been the purchase i've been most pleased/impressed with.

Link to comment

messing around with different modes on the mp10 to see what happens.

 

i was able to get a pretty intense wave going in short pulse mode, but i'm currently running it on long pulse mode with a fairly short interval. seems to be doing good things insofar as "total tank flow" is concerned, plus I'm able to avoid the "whirlpool" effect of air getting sucked down into the propeller. no "wave" at the top of the tank, but definitely getting a good "surge."

Link to comment

added a "tonga nassarius" snail to the CUC for scavenging/sand-sifting purposes. They are funny to watch. Food hits the water, and their "trunks" just erupt out of the sand like a zombie's arm coming out of the grave. i like this guy.

 

Also, switched out my ATO pump (I was using my Biocube 8's stock return pump) for an Aqualifter AW-20 to help limit my "downside" in case one of those ATO sensors got stuck again. Good in that it's external, gives a very slow refill (3.5gph through an airline tube!) and operates silently.

 

However, the JBJ ATO is automatically turning itself off before it finishes topping off (or, at least that's what I'm getting from the indicator lights -- pump light is on, but pump is off). There is a blurb on the jbjlighting.com webpage that instructs how to adjust the ATO's fail-safe timer to allow for up to 14 minutes of filling, so I guess I'll do that when I get home to try and allow more operation time.

 

Since installing the ATO, incidentally, the Bubble-Magus skimmer has been producing consistent/dark skimmate, even though I've cut back on bioload and feeding.

Link to comment
added a "tonga nassarius" snail to the CUC for scavenging/sand-sifting purposes. They are funny to watch. Food hits the water, and their "trunks" just erupt out of the sand like a zombie's arm coming out of the grave. i like this guy.

 

Also, switched out my ATO pump (I was using my Biocube 8's stock return pump) for an Aqualifter AW-20 to help limit my "downside" in case one of those ATO sensors got stuck again. Good in that it's external, gives a very slow refill (3.5gph through an airline tube!) and operates silently.

 

However, the JBJ ATO is automatically turning itself off before it finishes topping off (or, at least that's what I'm getting from the indicator lights -- pump light is on, but pump is off). There is a blurb on the jbjlighting.com webpage that instructs how to adjust the ATO's fail-safe timer to allow for up to 14 minutes of filling, so I guess I'll do that when I get home to try and allow more operation time.

 

Since installing the ATO, incidentally, the Bubble-Magus skimmer has been producing consistent/dark skimmate, even though I've cut back on bioload and feeding.

I made the very adjustment you are speaking of. I have still had problems with it malfunctioning. Let me know if you have a better experience than me.

Link to comment
I made the very adjustment you are speaking of. I have still had problems with it malfunctioning. Let me know if you have a better experience than me.

 

I was afraid someone would say that.

Link to comment

Just ran thru your thread, a very nice set up! I run the cadlight fixture that you have stock, wondering what your photoperiod is, i have way more GHA than you, and i'm looking for solutions.

Nice thread, i'll be tagging along. :)

Link to comment
Just ran thru your thread, a very nice set up! I run the cadlight fixture that you have stock, wondering what your photoperiod is, i have way more GHA than you, and i'm looking for solutions.

Nice thread, i'll be tagging along. :)

 

Thanks! :D

 

As far as lighting period goes, because i don't presently have any corals, i run my actinics for 12 hours (10 to 10) and run my halides for 6 hours (from 1 to 7). once i start putting corals in, I'll probably work my halide period up to 7-8 hours.

 

One thing I need to do is to clean off the shield under the halide, which has gotten a little salty. that could be exacerbating the situation.

 

I don't usually run much in the way of chemical filtration, but I have just recently added Rowaphos (placed it in a filter bag inside of my filter sock) to see if i could suck up any excess phosphates. i have never tested any measurable phosphates, but i figure i must have some. jury's out on how that's working.

Link to comment

randomly had a rock fall in my tank. thankfully, it looks like it was a good fall (rock on top left fell into overflow box/rock on right). no squished livestock or broken glass. I don't even know how this happened. the rock is very heavy and felt stable up there. i wonder if it's the increased flow?

 

in any event, my wife has been strongly suggesting that we need to re-aquascape the tank because there is just too much LR in there. So, while this makes me sad based on how much we paid for all this rock, but she does have a good point in that there isn't much space for sand, and there isn't much room for coral growth, and this fallen rock gives me a reason/opportunity to do it.

 

the goal would be to 1) keep most of the rock in the tank; 2) prioritize the more coralline-covered pieces; 3) try not to disturb the jawfish habitat too much (he hangs out under the rock up front most of the time, which I like) and 4) create room for coral growth.

 

I was thinking of going from a "two pillar" setup to one pillar on the left side, sloping down to a more open area toward the right. any other thoughts?

Link to comment

You could always take a hammer to a couple of those larger pieces to break them up into a couple/few medium size pieces. That might give you some more sturdy stacking options.

 

If you are removing some rock from the display, you could take a few of the smaller pieces and just relocate them to the sump. If the Tunze pump is smaller than the stock pump, you might even have a bit of real estate for a couple small chunks of rock in the return chamber.

Link to comment
You could always take a hammer to a couple of those larger pieces to break them up into a couple/few medium size pieces. That might give you some more sturdy stacking options.

 

that's the thing -- this structure was (or at least it felt like it was!) very sturdy. i don't understand what happened.

 

anyway, i did think about breaking up the rock a little bit, but i thought that i read somewhere that it was a bad idea to break live rock in half? something about exposing anaerobic areas/resulting die-off or something? i can't remember. you are right, though, that I do have some large rocks in there.

 

does a chisel(/crowbar) have heavy metals in it that might leave traces on the rock?

 

If you are removing some rock from the display, you could take a few of the smaller pieces and just relocate them to the sump. If the Tunze pump is smaller than the stock pump, you might even have a bit of real estate for a couple small chunks of rock in the return chamber.

 

i definitely have the room in the return chamber now (the tunze is VERY compact! have i mentioned that i love this pump?!). but, i'm concerned that it will just collect detritus (->nitrates) because i don't have any flow back there. thoughts on this?

Link to comment
that's the thing -- this structure was (or at least it felt like it was!) very sturdy. i don't understand what happened.

 

anyway, i did think about breaking up the rock a little bit, but i thought that i read somewhere that it was a bad idea to break live rock in half? something about exposing anaerobic areas/resulting die-off or something? i can't remember. you are right, though, that I do have some large rocks in there.

 

does a chisel(/crowbar) have heavy metals in it that might leave traces on the rock?

 

 

 

i definitely have the room in the return chamber now (the tunze is VERY compact! have i mentioned that i love this pump?!). but, i'm concerned that it will just collect detritus (->nitrates) because i don't have any flow back there. thoughts on this?

I would just take the rock out that you want to break up, split it with a hammer/chisel, dip it to clean off the debris, then place it in your tank/sump. I doubt your rock has density that serious where it would remove metal from a chisel, so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

re: placing LR in the return area of the sump...you're taking out a lot of the detritus with the filter sock you are using. Also, keep in mind that you are pumping 600+gph through a small sump, so there is some water movement. If you felt like you needed to, you could take the rock out and dip it when you change your water to remove whatever sediment has settled on it.

Link to comment

received mesh netting from acroholic today -- i may be constructing a new top as early as this evening!

 

(woo, 500th post!)

Link to comment

added my first SPS frags tonight!

 

-a nice big 4"+ piece of Green Slimer (just one long branch so far, but it looks to be getting some new growth at the top). paid $35, so not too bad at all.

 

-a small 1" of orange montipora digitata. paid $19.99 for that.

 

i was going to get a nice 1.5" piece of bright red monti cap, but some dude sniped it from right in front of me! that's what i get for deciding too slowly.

 

 

the acclimation process didn't go quite as smoothly as i had hoped, but it wasn't too bad. i was just using coral fix (i planned to use super glue too, but i couldn't find any.. bah), and i had some trouble getting the frags to stick well to the rocks. so, i may have done a little bit of damage to the base of the corals while trying to get them to stick (particularly on the green slimer).

 

i'll get some pictures once they color up/etc.

Link to comment

pics! :lockdown:

 

Jaws says "GTFO CLOWN." i never get tired of this. :D

4292283882_a7f5eebae4_b.jpg

 

Grommet in actinics

4292283416_23dfb415c2_o.jpg

 

and, my new SPS - all looks well so far.

 

green slimer. pretty good color, though it's a little taupe-y in the flesh, and i'm not getting great polyp extension yet. polyps are very nice and green, though. it's longer than i originally thought -- 6" or so. it's stick-like, but i think it'll figure itself out.

4292283346_03b98ee9a5_b.jpg

 

orange digitata montipora.

4292282952_662819c7e4_b.jpg

 

FTS, now with SPS!

4291541949_49192fcc8f_b.jpg

Link to comment

thanks a lot guys!

 

 

is your name really Tim Danger? If so, awesome!

 

actually, it's josh. :wacko: tim danger is an old college nickname.

Link to comment
Also, switched out my ATO pump (I was using my Biocube 8's stock return pump) for an Aqualifter AW-20 to help limit my "downside" in case one of those ATO sensors got stuck again. Good in that it's external, gives a very slow refill (3.5gph through an airline tube!) and operates silently.

 

However, the JBJ ATO is automatically turning itself off before it finishes topping off (or, at least that's what I'm getting from the indicator lights -- pump light is on, but pump is off). There is a blurb on the jbjlighting.com webpage that instructs how to adjust the ATO's fail-safe timer to allow for up to 14 minutes of filling, so I guess I'll do that when I get home to try and allow more operation time.

 

forgot to mention, i took this apart the other day, adjusted the screw (it really only turns about a half turn counter-clockwise at the most), and i haven't had any trouble with the ATO's fail-safe timer cutting the pump off since then. i figure, worst case scenario, the 3.5gph Aqualifter pumps water for 14 minutes, meaning i'm not going to get more than 1 gallon of overfill, which really shouldn't cause tooooo much trouble, worst case scenario.

 

wouldn't cause any real trouble at all if i built an auto-drain for my skimmer collection cup (like Aquabacs connected to his Bubble-Magus skimmer in his NPS thread).

Link to comment

Sweet, good luck with the SPS! You might consider breaking the green slimer in half and gluing both sticks down to a frag plug (or even into 3). The stress of breaking SPS makes them grow faster, and you'll get some branching action as well.

Link to comment
Sweet, good luck with the SPS! You might consider breaking the green slimer in half and gluing both sticks down to a frag plug (or even into 3). The stress of breaking SPS makes them grow faster, and you'll get some branching action as well.

 

i've definitely been thinking about that since i got the thing. also considered moving it lower. but i keep scaring myself out of doing it, as they've already been dealing with the stress of transporting from my LFS and my poor job of puttying it to the rock (i need to buy some superglue).

 

i mean, is it really just as simple as cutting them in half (or thirds!) and gluing them to the same spot? all that handling isn't going to kill them? i'd certainly like it more if it was more branch-y, less stick-y.

 

edit: i do have much better polyp extension on the slimer today than i had yesterday. still looking a little taupe-y though. especially on the "back" side of the frag.

Link to comment

Hey, got your message. Best thing to save a buck or two is to just keep your eyes open. On the other site people post stuff for sale almost everyday and the deals are better than store prices. As for me, I have some frags of a few different things. I have a few things I'm holding out on fragging for a bit. I want to give them some more time to grow and some healing time from the last fragging. Ben who is local sells stuff all the time for great prices and he has stuff listed on craigslist. Just run a search for coral frags and you should be able to find him.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions


×
×
  • Create New...