Ultimate LED guide

[disaster999]

so im helping a friend determine much LED he would needs for his 36x20x20 tank.

 

im trying how i can design a light for him with the least amount of money. I thought about using either china LED or CREEs. an 48 LED kit from rapidled would cost around 450+ shipping. 48 LED from china with drivers, heatsink, thermal paste wiring and all would cost 1/4 that, but they can only be driven at 700mah. i know cree is far superior, but i can make up for it with the china LED with adding more.

 

first i want to know if 48 cree LED with optics is enough to light a 36x20x20 sps tank. second, with a best educated guess, how much more china LED would i need to make up the difference.

 

thanks

[evilc66]

48 Crees would be a nice setup (12x4 setup). If you went to Chinese LEDs, the amount extra will depend on what LEDs you would use from Cree, and what the performance of the Chinese LEDs would be. You would probably want to match the overall luminous output. Word of warning though, the Chinese whites aren't that great looking, and typically have a green cast to them. Not sure how good the neutrals would be, but I'd assume they would be somewhat pink, based on their track record with poor phosphor blends.

 

Now, make sure you pay attention to the datasheets. Many Chinese LEDs are rated at 700mA for their output, not 350mA like Crees. You will see many Chinese whites listed at about 120-160lm at 700mA, while a Cree XP-G is pumping 135lm at 350mA. While the Chinese LEDs may be cheap, the energy consumption will be terrible in comparison. If you run the numbers for say 5 years usage, it may end up being cheaper to pony up for the better LEDs to start with.

Edited June 13, 2011 by evilc66

[Paleoreef103]

What would be the best way to link an LED array through an Apex controller? I was just going to go with a Trio 700, but I don't think they'll be ready in time for my plans so I plan on ordering a parts list similar to Bensanders build. However, I was curious as to how I need to modify a similar build to make it 0-10V DC controllable. Thanks!

[evilc66]

It's the drivers that are controllable, not the box. If you can live without the fancy enclosure, then just buy the drivers. The TRP drivers and the Meanwell ELN "D" series are both 0-10v controllable.

[Paleoreef103]

It's the drivers that are controllable, not the box. If you can live without the fancy enclosure, then just buy the drivers. The TRP drivers and the Meanwell ELN "D" series are both 0-10v controllable.

Awesome! Forgive my inexperience, but is there any connector I need to control them or do I just plug them into an APEX energy bar and control it through the controller?

[evilc66]

The bar only controls AC power on and off. There should be a 0-10v control port somewhere. I'm not very familiar with the layout of the Apex hardware, but I know it's capable.

[Paleoreef103]

The bar only controls AC power on and off. There should be a 0-10v control port somewhere. I'm not very familiar with the layout of the Apex hardware, but I know it's capable.

Ok, so I would use something like the nanocustoms LED dimmer interface kit to plug between the drivers and the controller? Thanks Evil!

[cactuspat]

Getting ready to put a led fixture together for a 20 long. Going to go with 2x12 with the 2" apart and 3" row spacing on a 24"x4.230"'heatsink. I want to keep it to 2 700ma trp drivers so my question is should i go with 15xpe royal blues & 9xpg nw or 16rb & 8nw with 1 rb on the nw driver? Layout ok?

 

B B W B W B B B W B B W

W B B W B W B W B B W B 15rb 9nw

or

B B W B B W B B W B B W

W B B W B B W B B W B B 16rb 8nw

 

I do not plan on using optics.

Edited June 14, 2011 by cactuspat

[evilc66]

Ok, so I would use something like the nanocustoms LED dimmer interface kit to plug between the drivers and the controller? Thanks Evil!

If you get just the drivers, it's not required. That kit just makes it easier to hook up the driver box to a controller.

 

Getting ready to put a led fixture together for a 20 long. Going to go with 2x12 with the 2" apart and 3" row spacing on a 24"x4.230"'heatsink. I want to keep it to 2 700ma trp drivers so my question is should i go with 15xpe royal blues & 9xpg nw or 16rb & 8nw with 1 rb on the nw driver? Layout ok?

 

B B W B W B B B W B B W

W B B W B W B W B B W B 15rb 9nw

or

B B W B B W B B W B B W

W B B W B B W B B W B B 16rb 8nw

 

I do not plan on using optics.

I don't think it will matter either way. One LED difference in either direction isn't going to drastically change the color, so go with whatever is more convenient for you.

[Paleoreef103]

Ok, so what do I actually need to control the driver with a controller/ how do I hook them up? Sorry for being a pain.

[evilc66]

Step 1 - Read Apex manual

Step 2 - Plug in appropriate wires on driver to appropriate ports on Apex

Step 3 - Do a barrel roll.

[Paleoreef103]

Step 1 - Read Apex manual

Step 2 - Plug in appropriate wires on driver to appropriate ports on Apex

Step 3 - Do a barrel roll.

Lol Thanks Evil! I believe I will enjoy step three the most.

[jrhietikko]

Holy S**t!

 

Wow, after years of being out of the Nano-reef scene I come back and see this thread that makes me want to get back into it all over again. I'm a big DIY guy myself and seeing LEDs being used in reef tanks seems like a great idea, with few trade-offs. My last nano was a 5.5gal, with a 70w MH and I had so much temp and evap issues I was always stressing over.

 

I really just want to thank evilc66 for putting all of this info together and being so helpful on the LED subject. This has made a great read, with so much info and has given me much inspiration.

[sidjam]

I'm setting up a mini-bow 7 gallon (17"x9"x11") and I'm wanting to use LED's for lighting under the stock hood (15"x3"x3"). I have a 12"x3" heatsink that I was thinking about putting 12 LED's on driven by 2 dimmable buckpucks at 1000ma. This will be fan cooled. On one driver I thought about 5 rb + 1b and on the other driver 4 cw + 2 nw. I have two 24v 2.65a power supplys to power each driver so I can have dawn, dusk capabilities. I was just wondering if this sounds like a good plan or not. Here are some questions I have:

1. Is my LED combination ok?

2. Is this a good number of LEDs for this size tank?

3. Do I need 1000ma buckpucks or will 700ma be ok?

4. Will 12 LEDs be ok on that size heatsink or will it get too hot?

Edited June 19, 2011 by sidjam

[evilc66]

1. Should work fine

2. Yes

3. 700mA will be fine, and will be more reliable

4. It will be fine as long as it's fan cooled. If the heatsink was not in an enclosed hood it could work without a fan.

[dr.jekyll]

1. Should work fine

2. Yes

3. 700mA will be fine, and will be more reliable

4. It will be fine as long as it's fan cooled. If the heatsink was not in an enclosed hood it could work without a fan.

Question for evilc66: I am new on this forum and please excuse any errors but you seem like the right person to ask. I have an Eclipse 12 tank that I thought would make a good nano tank for soft corals,some other inverts (shrimp) and 1 or 2 small fish. Would a LED conversion work for this system or am I just dreaming? The alternative would be to try and cram enough T5's into the lighting area of the top and I,m not sure that there is enough room. LED's would be dimmable and a couple of blue ones to simulate moonlight would be a great idea if I could get the parts together and fit them into this small space. As my job frequently requires me to "Mcgyver" solutions to all kinds of problems I don't mind a challenge! Thanks. By the way , great website ,useful info!

[sidjam]

Ok, thanks Evilc66. That is what I will go with then. I just wanted to make sure that was a good plan before I placed my order. What kind of change will that make to my LED lighting if I go with 700ma buckpucks over the 1000ma? Will I have less light output with the 700ma?

Edited June 19, 2011 by sidjam

[evilc66]

Question for evilc66: I am new on this forum and please excuse any errors but you seem like the right person to ask. I have an Eclipse 12 tank that I thought would make a good nano tank for soft corals,some other inverts (shrimp) and 1 or 2 small fish. Would a LED conversion work for this system or am I just dreaming? The alternative would be to try and cram enough T5's into the lighting area of the top and I,m not sure that there is enough room. LED's would be dimmable and a couple of blue ones to simulate moonlight would be a great idea if I could get the parts together and fit them into this small space. As my job frequently requires me to "Mcgyver" solutions to all kinds of problems I don't mind a challenge! Thanks. By the way , great website ,useful info!

Anything is possible with a little creativity. I'm sure you wouldn't be the first to retro LEDs into an Eclipse 12 hood. We don't have one on the list here on NR, but we do have one for an Eclipse 3, so with that being a lot smaller, you know it's doable.

 

Ok, thanks Evilc66. That is what I will go with then. I just wanted to make sure that was a good plan before I placed my order. What kind of change will that make to my LED lighting if I go with 700ma buckpucks over the 1000ma? Will I have less light output with the 700ma?

It will lower the intensity, but it will still be enough to keep anything you like in a tank like yours.

[Bazzar1986]

I have a 30g tank 36x13x16 tall and want to know if the "24 Ultra Premium LED DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers" on 2 "Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 9" Heat Sink for 12 LEDs" from RapidLED without optics about 5"-6" above the water will work for a mixed reef? Or using 3 heat sinks and using 2 rows be better? Or do I need more light? Thanks

Edited June 20, 2011 by Bazzar1986

[streetlamp]

Got a Elos Mini and have been trying to find a LED solution in the $300-$400 range for it. The AI Sol Nano would be perfect if it would ever ship. The light is the last thing I need to setup the new tank and I'm not sure what else is suitable. DIY would be okay but would prefer something in a nice pretty fixture for over this tank.

 

Some of the retro kits on nanocustoms seems like they would work and are easy to throw together but not sure how I would go about hanging them over a elos or which to get.

Edited June 20, 2011 by streetlamp

[evilc66]

I have a 30g tank 36x13x16 tall and want to know if the "24 Ultra Premium LED DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers" on 2 "Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 9" Heat Sink for 12 LEDs" from RapidLED without optics about 5"-6" above the water will work for a mixed reef? Or using 3 heat sinks and using 2 rows be better? Or do I need more light? Thanks

 

24 LEDs is fine, but I would use a longer heatsink. The 4.25"x9" drilled heatsink is set up with three rows of LEDs, which isn't really necessary for a tank that is this narrow. I would use the undrilled 4.25"x23" and just epoxy or thermal tape the LEDs down in a 12x2 arrangement.

[Bazzar1986]

Thanks Evilc66. I was going to use the solderless connectors just for ease of replaceing a led unless they arnt any good and cause i sux at soldering lol. So 3 of the heatsinks and i will only use 2 rows of the 3 and it will light a 36" tank? placing the order once i get your input here, Thanks again

Edited June 20, 2011 by Bazzar1986

[evilc66]

You could always drill and tap yourself. If not, then you could use the three heatsinks and not use the center row of LEDs.

[Bazzar1986]

You could always drill and tap yourself. If not, then you could use the three heatsinks and not use the center row of LEDs.

If i still had a drill press i would but I think it will be too much of a pita with a handheld. thanks again

[kgehrke]

I've got a spare 6" by 5.886" heatsink and 20 3W LEDs I want to put on it.

10 NW

6 RB

4 Blue

A. Is the heatsink big enough? I know it's on the small side, but I'm wondering if a fan would keep it <140F

B. Is that color combo to heavy on the blues and light on RBs. I have extra RBs, so swapping one for the other wouldn't be too much trouble, but I'd like some advice before I go soldering.

Thanks!

 

edit: Actually I might just use this heatsink for the fuge with only a couple LEDs. Then order a couple more LED's 2 NW 2 RB and another larger heatsink.

 

Also, has anyone used individual heatsinks like these?

Heatsink Link

Edited June 21, 2011 by kgehrke