Ultimate LED guide

[125mph]

If you want to use the laptop style supply, you can connecto to it by either making a mating female socket (should be a common size), or just hacking off the connector. It's most likely a coax style cable, so the center conductor will be positive, and the braided sheild around it will be ground.

 

Hi Evil,

 

I think I know everything I need to do now but 1 thing hehe.. So I brought the laptop type power supply.. I assume it will look like those round cyclindrcal laptop plugs. I didn't realize they weren't made like regular power with standard positive (black), nuetral (white) and sometimes ground (green).

 

So if I hack off the connector and it ends up looking like http://www.fonerbooks.com/laptop_7.htm , do I just connect the positive to the + of the buckpuck and thats it? There is no - connection?

 

Thanks,

[evilc66]

Negative (-) is ground. Like I said in the previous post, if it's a coax cable, the center conductor is positive, the outer braid is ground.

[125mph]

Negative (-) is ground. Like I said in the previous post, if it's a coax cable, the center conductor is positive, the outer braid is ground.

 

Ohhh yes I'm getting mixed up with the AC plugs.

[redfishsc]

+1, I have a buckpuck wired up to a 20v, 4.5A PC supply this same way.

[Blueseatex]

So I am looking into buying the TRC Drivers from nanotuners and I cant seem to find my answers in any search. I have a total of 60 leds 20 NW 34RB and 6CB.

 

First, Do they come with power supplies? If not what is recomended? Ill need a total of 6 drivers not unless I underdrive the CB,RB at 750 ma.

 

Second, I have 20 XPG NW and there max is 1500ma. The TRC-040S105DS Drives 10 at 1050ma. So I am underdriving them by 450ma. Am I losing that much par by underdriving them or are there other options?

 

Third, I notice you have the trio1050 for your kits. Can you just buy The trio1050 or is that just sold with the kits. I dont see them on your website, But the duo is there.

 

Thanks for any help in advance.

[MiReef]

Hi Guys, This may be the wrong forum But:

Where can I find simple instructions to build a LED controller using Arduino Duemilanove.

I have 12G Nano with 6CW and 6RB on two buckpucks. Simplest solution with direct Ard Due.

Thanks

[evilc66]

So I am looking into buying the TRC Drivers from nanotuners and I cant seem to find my answers in any search. I have a total of 60 leds 20 NW 34RB and 6CB.

 

First, Do they come with power supplies? If not what is recomended? Ill need a total of 6 drivers not unless I underdrive the CB,RB at 750 ma.

 

Second, I have 20 XPG NW and there max is 1500ma. The TRC-040S105DS Drives 10 at 1050ma. So I am underdriving them by 450ma. Am I losing that much par by underdriving them or are there other options?

 

Third, I notice you have the trio1050 for your kits. Can you just buy The trio1050 or is that just sold with the kits. I dont see them on your website, But the duo is there.

 

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

1. They don't need power supplies. The AC/DC conversion is done internally. Plug it into the wall and go.

 

2. While the XP-G can be run up to 1500mA, that doesn't mean you have to. It's all dependant on what your setup is, and the requirements you have from the LED setup. You don't want to be running at 1500mA in a 12" deep tank with softies.

 

3. The Trio 1050 will be offered shortly. Right now, we are trying to catch up on orders before letting that one loose.

 

Hi Guys, This may be the wrong forum But:

Where can I find simple instructions to build a LED controller using Arduino Duemilanove.

I have 12G Nano with 6CW and 6RB on two buckpucks. Simplest solution with direct Ard Due.

Thanks

Don't worry about the light control part. Learn how to do basic programming first. There are many forums out there that will teach you a lot. Once you have a grip on the programming, the integration of a pair of Buckpucks is really easy, and the software should be fairly painless.

Edited April 22, 2011 by evilc66

[MiReef]

Don't worry about the light control part. Learn how to do basic programming first. There are many forums out there that will teach you a lot. Once you have a grip on the programming, the integration of a pair of Buckpucks is really easy, and the software should be fairly painless.

Thanks Evil,

I am waiting my parts and will be here my mid may at most and am busy with may day job anyway. Ample time to dive into forums to look at programing. Thanks-

[evilc66]

There are many tutorials online. Ada Fruit has some good simple ones, as well as some cool goodies to buy for the Arduino.

 

One challenging part of getting something like this built is going to be the RTC (real time clock). It's necessary to keep accurate time. They typically communicate over an I2C or SPI protocol, which is a little daunting for first timers. Luckily, most of the code is already done and readily available. The hard part is deciphering all of that stuff to figure out how to set and read the time. It's not too bad, depending on how well you deal with logic and the like.

[MiReef]

There are many tutorials online. Ada Fruit has some good simple ones, as well as some cool goodies to buy for the Arduino.

 

One challenging part of getting something like this built is going to be the RTC (real time clock). It's necessary to keep accurate time. They typically communicate over an I2C or SPI protocol, which is a little daunting for first timers. Luckily, most of the code is already done and readily available. The hard part is deciphering all of that stuff to figure out how to set and read the time. It's not too bad, depending on how well you deal with logic and the like.

Hay Evil,

I ordered RTC module for Arduino but I'll look in to programing. I haven't done any real text programing for ages except LabVIEW which I am really good at. Looks like time to go for a bigger tank-only problem is cant find a place to have a big tank in my house: off for house hunting... nah. just kidding

[evilc66]

I'm in the same boat. Bigger tank = bigger house. I ended up going vertical instead.

 

Seeing as you have some programming experience already, the transistion to the Arduino should be pretty simple. Now you just have to figure out how to interface with all this hardware

[MiReef]

I'm in the same boat. Bigger tank = bigger house. I ended up going vertical instead.

 

Seeing as you have some programming experience already, the transistion to the Arduino should be pretty simple. Now you just have to figure out how to interface with all this hardware

Yeah, I know. Anyway I am going to be out of town for couple of weeks and after that I'll be getting my stuff. I'll let you know when I start fumbling with my toys in mid May.

[125mph]

If I dont want to glue the LEDs on the heatsink and dont have a drill press to drill and tap, is it okay to just drill holes in the heatsink and attach the led star thing with a screw and bolt the other side?

[Agro]

Just spent the last few days going over this thread, and I must say I'm impressed with the knowledge you guys have regarding LEDs!

 

I have a few questions, and although they are not related to SW tanks, it has to do with LED lighting.

I'm in the process of starting a new project, it'll be a vivarium, rainforest type.

 

My question is, you guys seem to use alot of LED in order to penetrate water, but since I am going to build a vivarium that will hold very little water, how do I calculate how many LEDs I should use?

I'd like for it to be bright to benefit growth of plants and moss, but not too bright.

 

Also, will there be a difference in spacing the LEDs compared to lighting a SW tank?

 

I really hope someone can lend me a hand here, I've checked out several vivarium/paludarium forums, but couldn't find any extensive info or people with experience with this.

 

[125mph]

If I dont want to glue the LEDs on the heatsink and dont have a drill press to drill and tap, is it okay to just drill holes in the heatsink and attach the led star thing with a screw and bolt the other side?

Nevermind, got a tap set... I guess I do thIs by hand???

[evilc66]

If I dont want to glue the LEDs on the heatsink and dont have a drill press to drill and tap, is it okay to just drill holes in the heatsink and attach the led star thing with a screw and bolt the other side?

Thats fine, but you still need to use a thermal paste between the heatsink and the star.

 

Just spent the last few days going over this thread, and I must say I'm impressed with the knowledge you guys have regarding LEDs!

 

I have a few questions, and although they are not related to SW tanks, it has to do with LED lighting.

I'm in the process of starting a new project, it'll be a vivarium, rainforest type.

 

My question is, you guys seem to use alot of LED in order to penetrate water, but since I am going to build a vivarium that will hold very little water, how do I calculate how many LEDs I should use?

I'd like for it to be bright to benefit growth of plants and moss, but not too bright.

 

Also, will there be a difference in spacing the LEDs compared to lighting a SW tank?

 

I really hope someone can lend me a hand here, I've checked out several vivarium/paludarium forums, but couldn't find any extensive info or people with experience with this.

 

I would treat it the same as a standard planted tank. The number of LEDs used is more to do with the footprint of the tank, rather than the depth. How big is the tank?

 

Nevermind, got a tap set... I guess I do thIs by hand???

Yup. Now, don't just try to run the tap all the way through the metal. You'll break it doing that. Use a cutting lubricant (WD40 works), and go one turn in, half a turn out. The backing out of the tap breaks the chips and stops it from binding. If the tap binds up, stop, and back out the tap. Trying to force your way through will just break the tap. Blow out the hole, and try again.

[125mph]

Do you think drilling by hand is okay? I don't want to buy a drill press for this mini project and I know from experience my free hand drilling isn't the straightest lol..

[evilc66]

Drilling by hand is fine. You just need to keep the drill perpendicular to the heatsink, and take it slow. It's much easier to break drill bits by pushing too hard when drilling by hand, versus using a drill press, or a drill guide. Sears has drill guides that help keep everything straight, and aren't too expensive.

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...173000P?prdNo=1

[Agro]

Thanks evil, for answering.

 

The tank is 39 x 17.5 x 29 (LxWxH), numbers are based on an empty tank, not accounted for varying levels of substrate and whatnot.

[evilc66]

I'm assuming there is a cross brace in the center based on those dimensions.

 

I would go with something like an 8x2 array with everything on 4" centers, all 6500K cool whites. You can adjust whether you are in low light or high light ranges with the drive current of the LEDs. You can always get a driver that has more current than you will need, and just dim it down. Split the array into two on two different heatsinks either side of the brace.

Edited April 25, 2011 by evilc66

[Agro]

There's no cross brace on this tank. Just a strip of ventilation at the very end of one side on top.

 

So I won't need more than 8x2 LEDs? How about optics, will I need them?

[evilc66]

Unless you are wanting to run very high light conditions, then no. Planted setups, vivarium/riparium/paludarium or whatever, typically require less light than reef setups.

[Agro]

Unless you are wanting to run very high light conditions, then no. Planted setups, vivarium/riparium/paludarium or whatever, typically require less light than reef setups.

 

Ok. Thanks so much for helping me out!

[maxst2]

I need some wiring advice... Here is what I have.

 

x2

Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver

x2

10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer

x1

10V AC Adapter

x12

White LED

x12

Blue LED

 

How is this wired up to the led string? Pictures/maps best suited for me

[evilc66]

This has been covered many times before. I would suggest reading though some build threads, as well as the big Meanwell thread, that has covered this.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...ll+power+supply