Micro-Small Algae Remover System for Nano's: Free!

[SantaMonica]

Seems like that article's based on some pretty up-to-date info.

 

That's correct. Marine biology/chemistry does not change. Current research (2009) actively cites works done back to the 1950's.

[Jacobnano]

Yes but it is not taken out of context

[ubigbobby]

That's correct. Marine biology/chemistry does not change. Current research (2009) actively cites works done back to the 1950's.

 

Wow...that's quite an ignorant statement. All sciences are constantly changing....always. Hell you're suggesting a change with your outlandish scrubber claims.

 

Some articles will cite old research because that research may still be valid. That doesn't mean ALL old research is still valid. Then again, REAL researchers don't take those sources and manipulate them, take them out of context and RAPE them like you do.

 

But then again, we should be used to ignorant statements from you.

[BLoCkCliMbeR]

Wow...that's quite an ignorant statement. All sciences are constantly changing....always. Hell you're suggesting a change with your outlandish scrubber claims.

 

Some articles will cite old research because that research may still be valid. That doesn't mean ALL old research is still valid. Then again, REAL researchers don't take those sources and manipulate them, take them out of context and RAPE them like you do.

 

But then again, we should be used to ignorant statements from you.

 

your on ignore nah-nah-ni-nah-nah

[Reefer Al]

That's correct. Marine biology/chemistry does not change. Current research (2009) actively cites works done back to the 1950's.

 

 

Citing research from 50+ years ago is valid as long as it was good research. However... hypotheses derived from the research changes a lot.

 

in the twelfth century it was god's fault that the crops were dying, that doesn't mean the crops weren't dying.

 

And how come I'm not on the blocked list?? I'm the only one who actually just made fun of you. I wasn't even trying to have a discussion or anything.

[supernip]

This thread is like the movie The Cell. It's like SantaMonica sucks you in to his own little world.

 

why am I on ignore anyways?

[Mr. Fosi]

B/c you criticized and critiqued him earlier in this thread.

 

Mr. Monica is fail.

[HecticDialectics]

I doubt he actually has any of us on ignore. Most people are too egotistic, self-righteous and curious to actually USE the ignore feature. I'd imagine this is -especially- true with St.Monica here.

[Jacobnano]

What and where is this ignore feature you all speak of?

[jwalsh1]

[Aquarists have] the feeling that organisms somehow "use up," "change," or "consume" many of these [trace] chemicals, and in doing so, forever remove the chemicals from the reef aquarium system. This assumption is not completely false, some chemicals are "used up" and removed from the system, but most are not. Organisms are dynamic entities, and while some chemicals are temporarily sequestered away, such chemicals generally remain available in the system due to metabolic turnover. The only real exceptions to this as far as organisms are concerned are those chemicals, such as calcium, which get incorporated into an insoluble matrix.

 

Several trace elements are found in elevated concentrations in aquarium water [Table 2; Figure 2]. Some of these metals have extremely high concentrations relative to NSW; tin has already been mentioned as having concentrations over 200,000 times above normal, but Thallium, Titanium, Aluminum, Zinc, Cobalt, Antimony, and Copper all have concentrations of over 95 times normal.

 

[donuts are yummy, brussle sprouts are icky]

[Mr. Fosi]

Anyone at the head of innovation gets attacked by those that follow the mob.

 

I fail to see how this old technique is innovation.

 

Also, the "attacks" as you call them have been directed not against Mr. Monica but against his empty and dishonest claims about this technique and the contents of the articles he copy/pastes from.

 

He started off honest enough on the first page, but that's also where he started making unfounded and incorrect claims.

 

It's no surprise he's stopped answering questions put to him. Nothing in this thread indicates that he knows anything about the subjects of the articles he has misrepresented here.

 

I think Mr. Monica's motto must be: "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt." A good strategy for him I suppose... As long as he sticks to it there are some that will incorrectly perceive him to be some kind of underdog and will defend him despite his obvious dishonesty and ignorance.

[jwalsh1]

I want to apologize SantaMonica. I shouldnt be such a %^&!. I think your idea for a small scale algea scrubber is sound, but Im just not sold on your interpretation of the research you posted but I admit I didnt need to be a clown about it.

[SantaMonica]

Successes Update:

 

Labperck on the AR site, translated from Spanish as best possible: "My system is 130 liters, DIY skimmer, 5 pounds of live rock, aragonite substrate 3-4 cm, 1 crossbow bursa fish, 2 percula clowns, and 2 feather dusters. Nitrate remained at 40 mg/l with changes in water of 20 percent a week. With changes in water 20 percent weekly, there was no noticeable improvements. Started with the vodka method, nitrates lowered to 30 mg/l, with no change of water for 2 months. The display was filled with filamentous algae and cyano. Then I found this scrubber and decided to try it. Installed lighting on both sides, and started turning off the skimmer at night. A week later, the nitrates are at zero, and the water is more crystalline. For now I'm very happy with this filter, thank you SantaMonica, JulioVideo, and all those who put their advice."

 

Emporador on the AR site, translated from Spanish as best possible: "Best of all is that today is the first time in my life watching the NO3 test Salifert no3 = 0 ... I can not really believe. Apart from all my efforts to maintain a good filter system, this really gives the expected results."

 

RiaanP on the MASA site: "Scrubber is now over 3 months old, Phosphates and Nitrates used to be sky high, but now I got no PO4 or NO3 problems."

 

MarkM3 on the RS site: "Just want to say thanks to Santa Monica. i begin my double-screen 2 month ago for 180 gal heavey load fish, and few soft, lps corals, and i always had 80-100 nitrates from havey stock fish. and now for the first time in 2 years my nitrates level are ((((10 ppm)))) which is amazing, corals are much happier, and pop there polyps more and more, hair algee on the display and rocks almost gone, still have a few red slim but less than before, much more cleanner display and caroline is growing too. its true, its active, its working the algee scrubberrrrrrrrr. go go go gooooo so thanks again."

 

SimonSKL on the MD site: "Just an update. I have started my ATS [2 months ago] but changed screen material about 5 weeks ago. Today, I am happy to say all cyano have disappeared from my tank and 95% of the hair algae are gone also. I have to add that I did change the water flow pattern by modifying two of my Maxijet 1200 with the Sure Flow adaptors. One pushes 2100gph and the other 1600gph, in a wavemaking mode. The screens that I now used are plastic canvas and doubled layers. I am still getting really dark brown algae growing on the screens and cleaning them about every 5-6 days. "

 

Glock339 on the UR site: "I [originally] set up my current nano to be Miracle Mud eco system. However I never actually got round to planting any algae in the MM, as I set up an algae scrubber and my params went perfect in a few weeks. so I' happy with things the way they are and probably shouldnt have bothered with the MM. Dunno if this helps but I'd defo recommend considering a scrubber to anyone wanting to ditch the skimmer and phos reactor."

 

MyFishEatYourFish on the MFK site: "update. nitrates undetectable with my test strips, so probably like 10 ppm, which is half of what i started with, so thats cool. i don't have a phosphate test but algae growth has slowed way way down already and my sand is actually white now, my fish are sooooooo active now its kinda nuts, even my flame angel and blue tang follow me waiting for food. i have nothing but the scrubber on there now and the tank is better than ever! all secondary filteration has been romoved for about a week and everything is continueing to improve. on my sheets brown started and soon turned dark brown with some green patches. i cleaned when the brown was too thick to see the sheet and noticed quite a bit of green underneath. coralline has noticanly increased its growthrate already and algae growth has almost stopped in the display, or my algae eaters eat it faster than it can grow. the rocks "leaked" [phosphate] for just a couple days and now are almost completely nuissance algae free and looking great. i am really impressed with the speed and effectiveness of this thing. i think using fabric really helped because how well the agae spores catch and hold on. in my opinion it is superior to any medium tried yet."

 

Dragon1188 on the SG site: "Just like to share that i just simply use a piece of plastic sheet (the white color one u can buy from Popular bookshop and quite rough) inclined at 30 degree to catch the return water to my sump. The piece of plastic is lighted by 2x8watt of Philips "tornado" energy saver bulb running 24x7 [should be 18 hours]. The piece of plastic is just 46cm long and 40cm wide. Total water flow over it is about 2000L/hr. My tank and sump volume is 400 L. After 1months, green (both hairy and fern like) and red algae (matt) growing like crazy [on the screen]. Can harvest 1 fistfull every 3 days. I had even removed my phosphate reactor and skimmer. Its been running 4months now and my phosphate is about 0.01ppm and nitrate is 0."

 

Da_Gopherboy on the 3R site: "I also battled nitrates for a while, my tank was FOLR for a while before I desided to add coral. Since I didn't intend to go in that direction originally nitrates were not my concern. So I was stuck trying to figure out how to drop the nitrates without contant water changes, or buying a denitrator (US Economy makes me poor). I made an ATS scrubber that was fed by my overflow right above my refugium. Nitrates made almost an 80% decrease within less than 2 months."

 

DangerDave on 3R: "I have been running the turf scrubber close to 4 months now. I haven't done a water change in about 2 months now. I just top the tank off. I do not have to clean the glass every couple hours or everyday. I clean the glass about once or twice a week (I have to clean/scrap the coraline off more than the algae). Coraline has taken off, corals are flourishing, mushrooms are splitting like crazy, everything is doing superb."

[davidr2340]

TLDR.

[BLoCkCliMbeR]

What and where is this ignore feature you all speak of?

 

clicking on a said person's avatar will bring up a screen w/ info of said person, and an option to ignore

 

 

st. monica........in english please, w/ less copy and paste.........a fuge does the same dilly, its prettier and you can sell the algea out of it......

[SantaMonica]

Scrubber FAQ 3.5 is now posted:

 

http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewto...hp?f=9&t=68

[SantaMonica]

Update: Best Ready-To-Use Light

 

Aside from a custom-made T5H0 light panel (lots of lumens, really near the screen), the best overall light you can buy is something like this outdoor landscaping light:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's non-rusting, non-corrosive, weatherproof, thin, temperature resistant, compact flourescent, bolt-on, adjustable, and the bulbs are replaced easily:

 

RAB PLF39 39W CFL Landscape Flood 120V:

http://www.prolighting.com/rabpl39wcfll.html

 

Housing and Lens: Corrosion and vandal resistant polycarbonate lens and housing.

Lamp: (3) 13W twin tube fluorescent GX23 (Included).

Lens Gasket: High temperature tubular silicone.

Finish: Architectural bronze.

Reflector: Anodized aluminum.

Voltage: 120 volts AC.

Mounting: Adjustable swivel mounting arm with 1/2" thread.

Size: 7.25" (18cm) wide, 9" (23cm) high, 3.5" (9cm) deep

Cost: $67 USD

 

This one is 39 watts (three bulbs) which is perfect for most screens, but they make smaller 26 and 13 watt (nano) size ones also. These types of light are surely available at larger home improvement stores, I just could not find them. Here are some other types too:

 

http://lightsofamerica.com/Products/9265.aspx

http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture100/...ng/product3.jpg

http://www.ec-securehost.com/positiveenerg...TING.html#PE565

[davidr2340]

Hi!

 

[121a]

good luck

 

 

i like to be part of every thread

[Jacobnano]

good luck

 

 

i like to be part of every thread

 

 

Don't we all lol

[HecticDialectics]

Update: Best Ready-To-Use Light

 

Aside from a custom-made T5H0 light panel (lots of lumens, really near the screen), the best overall light you can buy is something like this outdoor landscaping light:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's non-rusting, non-corrosive, weatherproof, thin, temperature resistant, compact flourescent, bolt-on, adjustable, and the bulbs are replaced easily:

 

RAB PLF39 39W CFL Landscape Flood 120V:

http://www.prolighting.com/rabpl39wcfll.html

 

Housing and Lens: Corrosion and vandal resistant polycarbonate lens and housing.

Lamp: (3) 13W twin tube fluorescent GX23 (Included).

Lens Gasket: High temperature tubular silicone.

Finish: Architectural bronze.

Reflector: Anodized aluminum.

Voltage: 120 volts AC.

Mounting: Adjustable swivel mounting arm with 1/2" thread.

Size: 7.25" (18cm) wide, 9" (23cm) high, 3.5" (9cm) deep

Cost: $67 USD

 

This one is 39 watts (three bulbs) which is perfect for most screens, but they make smaller 26 and 13 watt (nano) size ones also. These types of light are surely available at larger home improvement stores, I just could not find them. Here are some other types too:

 

http://lightsofamerica.com/Products/9265.aspx

http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture100/...ng/product3.jpg

http://www.ec-securehost.com/positiveenerg...TING.html#PE565

 

What? lmao

 

 

So the BEST option is a long linear lighting solution like T5HO, because it can run the length of the screen.

 

But a close second is a square box fulla PCs?

 

I dunno how you came to that decision, but I assure everyone, a square peg is not an apt replacement for a long rectangular one.

 

Just an FYI if anyone actually wants to try this train wreck, but they make PC bulbs that are also long and not very wide. That would be a better option than a square source of lighting.

 

Might as well be useful while I'm here in the mess. But I bet Santa Monica still has me on ignore, so he'll keep copypastin' that ridiculous idea for lighting everywhere.

[wombat]

I'm just impressed the light fixture looks reasonably protected from moisture. Santa Monica has caught up to about the year 1993 in reefkeeping technology.

[SantaMonica]

New Screen Material

 

Well after months of figuring out what are the best attributes are for a scrubber screen, and also after getting reports from hundreds of people as to what screen material worked best for them, I think I've come up with a material that is perfect for the job. I'm offering this screen for free to anyone who wants to try it (just pay shipping). Here are some pics, and some advantages, to this material:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's Clear Plastic: This allows light from one side of the screen to shine through to the other side. For a (new) two-sided screen, this means both sides of the screen get light from both bulbs; for one-sided screens, it means the dark side will still get some light from the bulb on the other side.

 

It's Thick: 1/4 inch (6mm). This allows much more room for algae to grip to, so washings/cleanings will not strip all the algae (no matter how hard you scrub). For total algae removal, you can just use a hair brush to push all the algae completely out. If you already have a pipe that is cut for canvas (usually a 1/8" or 3mm slot), you'll need to widen it to 5/16" (8mm).

 

It Flows Through: Since the screen is not solid, it allows algae from both sides to attach to each other in the middle, thus giving the algae even greater holding-power during cleanings and high flow.

 

It's Semi-Rigid: This gives a small screen enough strength to hold up a pipe by itself, and gives large screens the ability to prevent waviness, and from flopping out of position.

 

It's Bendable: You can put a large screen in a small sink for cleaning; it also is possible to bend the screen into a circular-screen configuration (i.e., inside a bucket.)

 

It Holds Roughness (after you rough it up). Attack it with 30 grit sandpaper, wire brushes, power sanders, etc, and the roughness will stay. Give yourself about one hour to rough up both sides.

 

It's Sturdy: It resists hard cleanings, even if you use fingernails, credit cards, or razors.

 

It's Reef Safe: Is made of standard hard-plastic material.

 

It can be used as-is for vertical screens, or it can be glued to a solid plastic sheet for horizontal screens (the sheet keeps water from flowing through the screen.)

 

So if anyone wants to try it, the screens I'm starting out with are a little smaller than a square foot; they are about 11.5" X 11.5" (29cm X 29cm). If you need two of these sheets to fit your scrubber, let me know. I'll keep the packing and shipping cost the same for everyone, $10 USD, including international. Paypal is easiest, but whatever works. PM me.

[Mr. Fosi]

This has become a commercial thread. Soon he'll be offering lights as well.

[HecticDialectics]

This has become a commercial thread. Soon he'll be offering lights as well.

 

I love how in the "it stands up by itself" picture, it's obviously leaning against the wall...