IPv6Freely Posted February 16, 2007 Author Share Posted February 16, 2007 Changed the hole pattern a bit to take some stress off the top holes: Link to comment
Uploadead Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 Will the holes be in the base of the tank or the back wall? Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted February 16, 2007 Author Share Posted February 16, 2007 Will the holes be in the base of the tank or the back wall? Back wall! Link to comment
andykee Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 you can probably (barely) get away with 7 holes there, but I would make sure that the pipe coming out of the bulkheads is well supported. you don't want to be putting ANY extra stress on tha back wall of glass with all those holes in it. Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 yes, agreed. I'm also considering re-enforcing the back with a second pane of glass siliconed on. It means two sets of holes, though I'd bet I could get a glass shop to make the second pane. Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted March 11, 2007 Author Share Posted March 11, 2007 My new custom stand and canopy have been made! Thanks to Kevin and Carla of KC Custom Aquatics!! Stand features a slide out board that the lighting will attach to with quick disconnects, a drawer, and one of those strips with all the switches in it. I'm VERY pleased with the result!!! Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted March 11, 2007 Author Share Posted March 11, 2007 jeez... tough crowd here. Seriously, what does it take to get some feedback??? Link to comment
Xtank Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 It takes boobs to get feed back LOL (sad but true) On a side note i think your stand looks good you gonna stain it a different color or leave it natural. Link to comment
svvad Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 your stand looks a lot like the one I'm doing for a 10g any ways ... what I'm really interested in is the 7 holes. Are they done yet ? The reason I'm asking is because I want to do 6 in a 30g Cube and everyone pretty much told me not to. So you go ahead and do your 7 holes and I'll follow ya Cheers Link to comment
chefie Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Looks great. I am in kc and was wondering how much the stand and canopy ran you. I am also wondering if how the drilling goes with those bits? I have a 30gal that I want to change some things on and add a sump. thanks for sharing Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted March 13, 2007 Author Share Posted March 13, 2007 ez: better pic of what? xtank: im gonna leave it natural. I'm starting to regret that decision a bit, the grain isnt quite what i was expecting... but man is it ever a nice stand! svvad: holes arent done yet. it would be my first time drilling, and im worried im gonna break it, so ive been trying to pawn it off on somebody else to do it for me. I think a reasonable guarantee is "you break it, i dont pay you". That way they arent out anything if they break it. LOL chefie: the stand was quoted at $300 originally. After asking for some mods, like a drawer, a slide out shelf for my lighting to attach to so i can slide it out for easy maintenence, and the holes at theback for my plumbing (12" deep tank, 18" deep stand), etc... brought it up to $400. Then I had one of those switch strips put in, you know, the ones from musicians friend i think the site is called. The strip, plus i had them make me an acrylic overflow... so all of that, plus a tip (the guy came down here for a frag swap, so i didnt have to pay for delivery, but i still felt i should give him some extra) it ended up being an even $500. Considering that stand was going for over $1000 on the site that i sent him with a picture of what i wanted, i think i got a pretty damn good deal, considering i got to pick type of wood, stain, design, etc. Plus I have the peace of mind of knowing it's well built. btw... well... i think ill PM you chefie, i dont wanna get in crap on here for advertising our local board. Link to comment
svvad Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 I would say don't even try to drill 7 holes with those bits. Buy the ones from ebay. I just drilled two 10g this past week end and one of the bits I bought from ebay was a tad to small so I deceided to buy one of the bits you have and make the hole a little larger with that. Well after 5 minutes of trying to make the hole bigger I didn't see any changes on the hole LOL So I put back the saw hole and it was done in 20 secs. Just try to drill one hole with the bits you have in some scrap piece of glass U may have laying around and you'll understand what I'm saying quickly Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 I'm trying to find somebody who will drill my tank for me. There's nobody around here that will do it. So I guess until that happens my aquarium setup is at a standstill. Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 Okay so, 4 months later, I finally tried to drill my tank. Everything went well, except on the 4th hole, the bit caught right at the end, and put a 1/2" crack in the glass where the hole is. I'm not going to chance it, even though the bulkhead should cover it mostly. So I have two options: First, buy a new tank. $83. Second, buy a sheet of starphire, and replace the cracked pane with it, using black silicone (which looks nicer anyway IMO). I just dont know how much a 36x20 pane of starphire is gonna cost. Anyone have any good suppliers? Also, I started buying the plumbing parts. I never had any idea working with PVC was so simple! I got a pair of racheting pvc cutters for $11 at home depot, and while I was skeptical when I saw them, I'm a firm believer. 4 seconds to cut through PVC, zero effort, and a perfectly clean cut every time (with no need to de-burr). I also bought my closed loop pump, a Iwaki MD55RLT. Got it for $150 used, but it's in good shape. I also bought my OM Squirt. Can't wait! Link to comment
divecj5 Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Hey man, everything looks awesome and great job on getting this slowly put together. Looking forward to seeing it progress from here. Adam Link to comment
eddie29 Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 Santa Fe glass in Olathe, call them and they can not only help you out with the glass but also drill holes. 25 dollars a hole or just buy it new from Fish World in bluesprings and they will do it for you Link to comment
kryptic4l Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 personally the design scares me. But if you know it will work should be alright..... however may i suggest installing a false back to drill holes into.... lose 3 inches in tank space.... but then you can have ports everywhere you want. the other thing about glass you might just want to use a glass cutter if you can find one on a protractor ( the thing you used to make circles in school.... honestly maybe a stained glass place could help you on this... they cut glass alot Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted October 4, 2007 Author Share Posted October 4, 2007 Finally got my order in to nano-paul for my glass: front is low-iron, back and bottom are tempered, dimenstions are 36x12x20, and will have a 1" drain, 3/4" return, a 3/4" closed loop inlet, and four 3/4" closed loop outlets, each with a 3/4"->1/2" loc-line wye. The closed loop will run on an OM Squirt. I have an Iwaki RLT55 I think it is for my CL, and a Mag9 for my return. Heres a diagram: Link to comment
nano-paul Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Santa Fe glass in Olathe, call them and they can not only help you out with the glass but also drill holes. 25 dollars a hole or just buy it new from Fish World in bluesprings and they will do it for you$25.00 a hole??? Jebus, I will do it for $17.00, and its done with a CNC machine.Finally got my order in to nano-paul for my glass:front is low-iron, back and bottom are tempered, dimenstions are 36x12x20, and will have a 1" drain, 3/4" return, a 3/4" closed loop inlet, and four 3/4" closed loop outlets, each with a 3/4"->1/2" loc-line wye. The closed loop will run on an OM Squirt. I have an Iwaki RLT55 I think it is for my CL, and a Mag9 for my return. Heres a diagram:I will PM you later today or in the morning on the last PM buddy Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted October 5, 2007 Author Share Posted October 5, 2007 $25.00 a hole??? Jebus, I will do it for $17.00, and its done with a CNC machine.I will PM you later today or in the morning on the last PM buddy I actually didn't even realize it cost THAT much per hole! I thought the high pricetag was because of the low-iron glass! Thanks man, I am so beyond stoked to get this tank going!!! Link to comment
IPv6Freely Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 I'm actually re-thinking some things now. First, I think I'm going to go 18" tall instead of 20". I'm also re-thinking the location of my holes. They looked all symmetrical before I added in the overflow, now they just look wrong. I'm thinking of spacing out the bottom row a little more. Link to comment
edacsac Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Looking forward to seeing things progress, tagging along! Link to comment
nano-paul Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I'm actually re-thinking some things now. First, I think I'm going to go 18" tall instead of 20". I'm also re-thinking the location of my holes. They looked all symmetrical before I added in the overflow, now they just look wrong. I'm thinking of spacing out the bottom row a little more. Just PM me some hole spacings and we can get the ball rollin!!!!! Link to comment
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