stallen Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 So my torch would not full expand after upgrading the pump to the MJ900. Just too much flow shooting in its direction. My Xenia was getting blown around too much also. So I did another outlet mod. This will not compare too Gman's mod, but it should bring a little tear to his eye. This mod has 4 flare nozzles. You can see 3 of them here... Here is the 4th. Hidden behind the rock. Here is where the 4th nozzles comes out on the other side. I can now direct flow anywhere I want to. The xenia and torch are much happier. (Can't tell the torch is happy in these pics though. It's mad because I had my hands in the tank messing with stuff.) I just finished my next mod. Which is this... I got the idea from Stoney Waters to try cold cathode tubes for my moon lighting. Some information from Robster was quite helpful too. I discovered after getting some corals that my leds didn't light the tank very well after the +18W mod. I know I previously stated that is was unaffected, but it wasn't until I got the torch that I realized how poor the LEDs lit the tank with the new 18W bulb in the way. Here is the mod... These tubes make for much more even lighting. I have the lighting hooked up to an ac converter that allows me to adjust the voltage. 12 volts is just way too bright. It was even too bright at 6.5volt with two of these tubes. I just took out one of the tubes. I think it will be better with just one bulb. I'll try it tonight to see what setting is best. Probably 7 volts with one tube. A final thought. These blue cold cathose tubes create more even lighting, but it is a lighter blue. It looks very close to actinic lighting (and was almost that bright with two tubes @ 12V). The LED have a deeper darker blue light. Link to comment
flyingjeff Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 A final thought. These blue cold cathose tubes create more even lighting, but it is a lighter blue. It looks very close to actinic lighting (and was almost that bright with two tubes @ 12V). The LED have a deeper darker blue light. Do you know the wavelength of light the cold cathode tubes are producing? Perhaps you could make a switch that would increase the voltage during daytime to supplement your 1 actinic bulb. Just a thought. I have been thinking about how to work around the "racing stripe" my tank got when I installed the third lamp. Also, did you happen to take any shots of your flow monster before it was put into service? I am having trouble picturing all the parts you used to put it together. Tank is looking good though. Keep thinking up new ideas! Link to comment
stallen Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 Do you know the wavelength of light the cold cathode tubes are producing? I'll have to check on that. Also, did you happen to take any shots of your flow monster before it was put into service? I am having trouble picturing all the parts you used to put it together. Tank is looking good though. Keep thinking up new ideas! "Flow monster" I like that! Parts list: 1/2" x 6" ball & socket loc-line flexible tube - http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=LL1111 For flares I used the stock flare and three of these - http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=LL1117 One "T" http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=LL1120 Two "Y" http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=LL1121 Here is how it is put together starting from the outlet on the false wall: The stock ball fitting is attached to the "T" The "T" has a "Y" attached to both outlets Each "Y" has 2 flares. I took the 1/2" x 6" ball & socket loc-line tube apart and used some ball and socket pieces in between some of the connections. Hope this helps if you need a pic I can take it out and shoot a pic. Let me know. Link to comment
stoney waters Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I finally focused on your sig. Swimming shark, magic eyes are cool. Tank is looking good BTW. Link to comment
GMan Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Sorry ... I was out of town this weekend. LOVE the new mods! I have also considered both your chamber barrier mod and the cathode tube mod, but I couldn't wait any longer to get water flowing. I'll post when I get around to implementing. Hey ... you stated you tried two cathodes and ended up only using one ... I know someone who may be interested in your spare Is that a temp probe in your main tank ... curious why it is in the main tank instead of chamber 1? Link to comment
stallen Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Since I like to unplug my pump for 15-20 minutes to give my corals time to eat and my CUC time to "clean-up", I've always been afraid that I might forget to plug the pump back in after feeding time. I finally figured out an idea of how I can get the pump to turn itself back on. I made a timer box with some help of my fellow reefers: You can read the DIY thread to see how it's done if you are interested: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...109789&st=0 Sorry ... I was out of town this weekend. LOVE the new mods! I have also considered both your chamber barrier mod and the cathode tube mod, but I couldn't wait any longer to get water flowing. I'll post when I get around to implementing. Hey ... you stated you tried two cathodes and ended up only using one ... I know someone who may be interested in your spare Is that a temp probe in your main tank ... curious why it is in the main tank instead of chamber 1? What the heck! For some reason I don't get e-mail updates for my own thread. Sorry I didn't respond sooner gman. I just discovered your post. No good reason for the temp probe in the display other than I thought it might be more accurate if the CUC keeps it clean. Probably doesn't matter. I might move it into the rear chambers. I've had a cathode tube burn out rather quickly in my computer (no longer have them in my computer). I'm gonna hang on to it for a spare. You really have to buy a kit tho. The kit come with an inverter box that is needed to run the bulbs. So here is what I worked on today... One of my first noob mistakes was underestimating the amount of stuff I would be plugging in. I placed my BC on a table that is open on the bottom. My wife was ###ed about all the clutter under the tank. I built a cabinet to hide all the stuff several months ago, but I just did some much needed organizing today... I haven't decided if I want to put my Pinpoint pH monitor in here or keep it on top where I can easily see it. Same with my pump timer box. I might just mount that to the wall behind the table. This isn't a good pic of the tank. Everything got washed out in the pic by the bulbs, but you get an idea of the little cabinet I built to hide everything. Oh, I also just put a lock on the door to keep the wee ones out!!! Link to comment
Insane Reefer Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 ...But I need something that will protect the slit into the 2 water inlet into Chamber 1. I thought about using Panty hose but I was worry that it will restrict water flow and become clog up with Algae and other stuff quickly. You could try making a screen with the plastic netting you find nuts and onions packaged in. Not organza fabric, it is too fine and rots too quickly - the heavier plastic netting is nice and useful in many ways... Link to comment
Insane Reefer Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Ok, I read this thread the other day (I"m on dial-up, so it took a while), and wanted to clarify before filling my tank. There are 2/3 removable parts, screens and trays. Which one's stay or are removed? #1 - Bottom screen for the first or "Filter Cartridge Chamber". This one is not technically removable, but can be with some effort? Supposed to be more flow if it is removed? Does it stay, or go? #2 - Drip Tray over second or "Bio-ball Chamber". Stay or go? #3 - Bottom screen under "Bio-ball" chamber. Stay or go? Any other tips before I "go wet"? Thanks!!! Link to comment
flyingjeff Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 #1 - Goes #2 - Stays - Most put filter floss here #3 - Goes Link to comment
Insane Reefer Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Awesome - Thanks! Is there any reason that the bottom bio-ball screen couldn't be used up top, instead of that pesky drip tray? I thought I might open it up a bit for more flow, but any reason you can see not to? Again, Thanks! Link to comment
stallen Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 That's actually my next mod. I'm going to make my own drip tray. Probably just a piece of plastic with larger holes. The stock drip tray along with some filter floss really slows flow especially after about 1-2 days worth of gunk build-up in the floss. I think a drip tray with larger holes would allow the filter floss to last maybe 3-4 days. A 1/8 - 1/4" thin piece of plastic would also sit a little lower in chamber two and would probably allow the water flow to land right on top of the floss. This would get the filter floss a little more evenly gunked up instead of just the right side. Link to comment
stallen Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 I think I might even make the drip tray so it sits about a 1/2" lower than the original drip tray. That would cause the water to flow on top of the drip tray. It might make it a little easier to use something like poly filter pads http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...p;N=2004+113810 or micron filter pads http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...p;N=2004+113808 Link to comment
Insane Reefer Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Why keep the drip tray at all? This might be a stupid question, but it really seems to cut back on flow - either the stock tray or the bottom screen... But if it Has to be used, I was thinking that one could modify a powerhead thingy (the part that directs the flow), and using epoxy, mount that to the little overflow hole, and get the spill at least more toward the middle of the screen/tray. Or one could find a plastic "tube" - like you find beads in, or a travel toothbrush holder, and make a sort of "trough" that feeds out over the tray. If these won't work, then your idea for dropping it would be best, I'm thinking. Thoughts? Link to comment
stallen Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 Why keep the drip tray at all? I like to put some sort of mechanical filtration on top of the drip tray like filter floss. It wouldn't work out to just put filterfloss directly on top of the cheato. I think it's nice to have some sort of bottom grate in chamber 2 as well. Although I think I will replace that as well with a piece of plastic that has larger holes to improve flow. Link to comment
Insane Reefer Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Well, just for giggles, I have removed all grates/trays from the system, except for the backwall intakes, and the sound factor went way down - it is almost silent running - at least compared with the computer and ceiling fan background noise. The second chamber has also filled higher with water, and with all said and done, 1st and 2nd chambers are running full or mostly full, and the third chamber, or pump chamber is over 2 inches over the "Maximum" level. When I turn off the pump, it doesn't overflow or anything. I think I could get another 1/2g of water in the system, to fill chamber 3 to fullish. Is this ok? Do you really need those silly level lines and if so, why? Link to comment
GMan Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 I run my 2nd/3rd chambers almost full. During water changes I fill until I can no longer see the water in the view finder window on the side. The min/max level on side are only applicable if you are still using the biaballs in chamber2 as they work more effectively if there is air exchange. Link to comment
stallen Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 I never look at the max/min levels anymore. I keep chamber 3 almost full. I think the water level is up to almost the same level as the 90 degree output elbow. Whatever the water level in chamber 3 the water level is usually about 1/2 or so higher in chamber 2. I like to keep the cheato totally submerged while the pump is running. That is usually how I base how much water to add during water changes. Link to comment
Insane Reefer Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 An alternate idea to floss on the drip tray. Has anyone given any thought to the "ol' skool" internal filters? Several are of a size to readily fit the 1st or 3rd chambers (3rd if you top mount the replacement 'head and not use the stock pump). I've had great luck in the past using the stiff floss/pad you buy by the sheet instead of the fancy setups they are supposed to be used with. If all you want to do with them is polish the water, one of those would probably work, I think. If you are concerned with heat from more electrical parts, there are also air driven types that move a fair bit of water through... Link to comment
monkeytrumpets Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 Stallen, I like the 'flow monster' mod! I got the parts and I'm attempting to duplicate it, but I'm having trouble getting the stock ball to fit into the T. Was there a trick for you to get them to fit together? Link to comment
stallen Posted March 2, 2007 Author Share Posted March 2, 2007 Stallen,I like the 'flow monster' mod! I got the parts and I'm attempting to duplicate it, but I'm having trouble getting the stock ball to fit into the T. Was there a trick for you to get them to fit together? Yes, If I remember correctly, I had to use some sand paper to make the ball on the stock output a little smaller. Then lots of force to snap it on. You might also try soaking the two parts in some hot (not boiling) water to soften the plastic a bit. I bet if you tried that you probably wouldn't even need to sand it down. Link to comment
monkeytrumpets Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 Yes, If I remember correctly, I had to use some sand paper to make the ball on the stock output a little smaller. Then lots of force to snap it on. You might also try soaking the two parts in some hot (not boiling) water to soften the plastic a bit. I bet if you tried that you probably wouldn't even need to sand it down. Well, after an hour of filing (I don't have any sandpaper and we're snowed in, so I had to use the file on my combo-tool) and 20 seconds in the microwave, all is attached. Thanks for the help! Link to comment
stallen Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Resurrecting my thread with an FTS!!!! Link to comment
octoalex Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Fantastic!! I just started mine a few days ago... waiting to get the rest of my rock to fill things in tomorrow (only have three lil rocks right now.. check it out)... then the long cycle continues... and btw thanks! this topic actually got me going on my biocube, filter mods etc. I never look at the max/min levels anymore. I keep chamber 3 almost full. I think the water level is up to almost the same level as the 90 degree output elbow. Whatever the water level in chamber 3 the water level is usually about 1/2 or so higher in chamber 2. I like to keep the cheato totally submerged while the pump is running. That is usually how I base how much water to add during water changes. I am having trouble with the level in chamber 3 with my mj 606... it's lowww... just adding water to the chamber will work? Link to comment
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