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BioCube 8


stallen

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The tank is up and running, so somewhat limited where I can drill.......can drill between rear chambers, but would have to empty water and be very careful to drill from the rear of the biocube through the back plastic wall.......make sense(?)

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The tank is up and running, so somewhat limited where I can drill.......can drill between rear chambers, but would have to empty water and be very careful to drill from the rear of the biocube through the back plastic wall.......make sense(?)

 

It's probably safe to assume you don't have much of any livestock yet. Do it during a water change. Might be easier using a right angle drill if you have one. Better do some searching and ask some people who have actually done it though. You might need some special fittings andyou'll want to make the right size hole.

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Well....got rid of the false floor in Chamber one, ( a little pressure, and it popped right off) and put my heater there.....tank looks much better! It's a start to the many mods you folks have suggested....thanks!

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i'm really pleased w/the way my thank has been coming along. did the fuge mod w/submersible light and added an another pump - mj606 - for increased circulation. had to dremel between the 1 and 2 chambers to accomodate the extra flow. i kept the cover in the second chamber, the light is hanging from that, but did add several holes in that also instead of just the small slats.

 

tank is fully stocked and i've had no problems to date. i attribute that to buying good live rock (covered in coraline), the fuge, and established live sand. unlike my other tank i've set up - no problems, it almost seems as though i set up a "tank in a day" like the lfs' who can transplant established stuff.

 

all parameters are in check. and unlike my 24g - ammonia is 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. i love this little tank.

 

and the monti is still looking good! no discoloration at all.

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I found that placing the bulb directly in the centre of the Chaeto ball worked the best.

 

I would also go with a single bulb, as you are putting the 10W directly into the water, which may cause heat issues.

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This is the plan for chamber two folks, with the submersible bulb mentioned above.......I do not plan on removing any false floor in chamber two (?)

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...t&p=1143990

 

THIS is in lieu of a protein skimmer.....chamber one has the heater and modded filter fad, chamber three has the pump and output in my biocube 29g.

 

The submersible bulb goes above the cheato?

 

I'm not comfortable drilling holes in my cube....and I get a lot of output/flow from chamber three, with the nozzle pointed upwards....

 

Biggest problem with the tank.....the film of algae on the glass which I have to clean everyday.....I am letting the algae stay on the rear panel, hoping it will turn green and have some coraline growth.

 

---Chip

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i did not take out the false floor on the bottom of chamber 2. the only drilling that i did was to the cover tray for chamber 2. i dremmeled a hole directly in the center, ran the cord through and the bulb is hanging above/within the cheato (can't really tell as it's covered :-) very easy mod.

 

stallen - i hope you don't mind us posting all our pics and discussing all this in your thread. you have been an inspiration to us all and we are merely your followers :-)

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you have been an inspiration to us all and we are merely your followers :-)

 

 

Hee, Hee. Shortly after I met my wife she said to me "flattery will get you everywhere!" :lol:

 

I don't mind at all and it keeps me interested. I just wish I had something to report.

 

I just started a Master's degree program and I've been too busy to be creative with my tank. I actually spend some of my spare time dreaming about a 200 gallon or so tank for when I'm done with school. It might just be a dream, but who knows? Maybe someday. ;)

 

BTW, I'd be flattered if you guys keep the thread alive as I become more and more busy as the program progresses. ;)

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Where does one purchase egg crate???

Home Depot or Lowe's or similar store. It is actually called "egg crate", but when I asked for it I got a funny look. I thought it would be in lighting since it is usually used on ceilings under fluorescent lighting, but it is located in the area that has ceiling tiles. So if you get the funny look ask for ceiling tiles. They are usually sold in something like 2' x 4' sheets.

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Light ordered. Have Purigen and Chemipure already......gather I will get Cheetoh, (sp) from LFS. Sounds like not everyone uses Egg crate for the top of their fuge -- some use the standard drip tray that comes with the biocube. Either way, I will have to drill or bevel a hole to allow the light to be submerged into the middle of the fuge area, below the drip tray. Thoughts?

 

Thanks!

 

Light info:

 

Ordered from: http://www.discount-pumps.biz/pond-lights.htm

 

Single 10 Watt Halogen Light

Item #: S5WL

Unit Price: $9.95

Quantity: 1

Ship Method: PRICE

 

Oops, I hope you folks meant the Single 10 watt light Halogen fountain light for tabletop fountains (9.95), and not the Halogen light with chrome casing, (13.95) pictured right below it. If I messed up, let me know, perhaps I can get the order changed.

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Are we all in agreement, it's the bulb mentioned by KMP in the post above.....??? It's ordered and paid for !! Last call !!!!

 

--Lux

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Bulb came....getting some feedback from some folks that it will not be enough light for my Cheato, (sp) fuge. I hope they are wrong......I need some reassurance!! ;-)

 

single5watt.jpg

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canyonblue737

stallen -

 

first off your mods have been a total inspiration.

 

i am planning to do the following mods BEFORE setting up my BC8 tank...

 

1. chamber 1 to 2 overflow enlargement

2. exterior chamber 2 fuge light

3. egg crate / filter floss chamber 2 mod

4. chaeto + purigen + chemipure (sp?) + live rock in chamber 2 under egg crate

5. improved flow fans

6. mj 606 + hydor-flo

7. stealth heater in chamber 1 or 3

 

i have 4 big questions...

 

1. in chambers 1 and 3 what do you have other than a heater or temp probe? i understand (thanks to your great drawing) what you do in chamber 2, but is there any filtration media of any kind other than in chamber 2?

 

2. will i have any issues setting up the chaeto and fuge day 1 in terms of trying to cycle just live sand and rock? i don't delay or hurt the cycle do i? if that was the case i could leave out the chaeto etc.

 

3. when people talk about LR rubble... how small of pieces are we talking should i hammer it down to... marble size? pebble?

 

4. i am concerned about tanks temps getting high since i run my interior home temp at 78 during summer. i will enhance the fans but don't think i will go with the 60 mm if you think that is overkill since i likely won't do a lighting mod for now. are there any recommended "plug and play" 50 mm fans that will really help with the keeping the tank cool?

 

thanks so much... the mods start this weekend and i will post a lot of pics.

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stallen -

 

first off your mods have been a total inspiration.

 

i am planning to do the following mods BEFORE setting up my BC8 tank...

 

1. chamber 1 to 2 overflow enlargement

2. exterior chamber 2 fuge light

3. egg crate / filter floss chamber 2 mod

4. chaeto + purigen + chemipure (sp?) + live rock in chamber 2 under egg crate

5. improved flow fans

6. mj 606 + hydor-flo

7. stealth heater in chamber 1 or 3

 

i have 4 big questions...

 

1. in chambers 1 and 3 what do you have other than a heater or temp probe? i understand (thanks to your great drawing) what you do in chamber 2, but is there any filtration media of any kind other than in chamber 2?

 

2. will i have any issues setting up the chaeto and fuge day 1 in terms of trying to cycle just live sand and rock? i don't delay or hurt the cycle do i? if that was the case i could leave out the chaeto etc.

 

3. when people talk about LR rubble... how small of pieces are we talking should i hammer it down to... marble size? pebble?

 

4. i am concerned about tanks temps getting high since i run my interior home temp at 78 during summer. i will enhance the fans but don't think i will go with the 60 mm if you think that is overkill since i likely won't do a lighting mod for now. are there any recommended "plug and play" 50 mm fans that will really help with the keeping the tank cool?

 

thanks so much... the mods start this weekend and i will post a lot of pics.

 

1. I have moved the heater back and forth a few times between Chamber 1 and 3. I currently have the heater in chamber 3 and I'm going to leave it there. I also have my temp probe in chamber 3. I was just certain that I would get false high temps if I had the temp probe in the same chamber as the heater. I found that is NOT the case. I moved the temp probe from each chamber, I also placed the temp probe into the main display to see if I got a different reading. I did not. Obviously you don't want to have the temp probe right next to or touching the heater, otherwise it's OK in the same to have it in the same chamber as the heater and pump.

 

All I have in chamber 1 is a pH probe. I use the pinpoint pH monitor. I have found that the pH test kits that I have used are inaccurate and the pH fluctuates so much from night to day. My pH was always running low. This is typical of a small tank with a closed top. Also, since I am using a dosing pump with b-ionic 2 part I use the pH monitor to guide how much to dose. I have is down perfect now. I never dose anything extra. My dosing pump has been running non-stop for the past two months without changing the rate. I suppose if I had some left over LR rubble I might put a little in the bottom of chamber 1, but I want to make sure my pH probe has good flow around it. The pH probe can possibly get some interference from other devices such as heaters and temp probes. That is why I have isolated the pH probe.

 

2. You'll get different opinions about how to cycle.

 

Some say, "No water changes, no skimming, no cheato, until after the cycle." The thought behind this is that a big ammonia spike will create an enviroment that builds a strong bacterial floura. Since this good bacteria should be the primary filter it's good to get off to a good start by letting your tank cycle this way.

 

Others say, "Do water changes, run your skimmer, and use cheato during the cycle." The thought process behind this is that your live rock has critters and various things/ "hitchhikers" growing on it. If you have a big ammonia spike a fair amount of those will die. Further it is beleived that your bacterial floura will build over time.

 

The choice is yours. I tend to favor option two, but not to the extreme. I used a product called bio-spira to assist with boosting my beneficial bacteria. I didn't use cheato because I didn't set up the fuge until later. But if I did have the fuge set up I would have used it. I also think that doing a water change every 5-7 days is a good idea during the cycle.

 

Almost all will agree to take things slow. I would recommend not putting anything in the tank until it is about 3-4 weeks old, even if your parameters look perfect after the first week. Keep the lights off so you don't get a bunch of algea grow. (Just run the fuge light 24/7 until you start running the display lights. If you choose to run the fuge.) Start off with a clean up crew (CUC). Then add a fish about two weeks after that. If your parameters are all good start adding some coral about two weeks after that.

 

3. What people call rubble is usually related to the sixe of the tank. In our small tanks, I call rubble anything from the size of a grape to about golf ball size. That's what I use. I have put more rubble into my display along the back wall and rear corners. Pods like piles of rubble. In a big 200 gallon tank, golf ball to baseball size rock probably looks like rubble.

 

4. I would look at a place like crazypc.com and newegg.com for computer fans. They should be "plug and play". I tried that to start off with different 50mm fans. They were just as loud as the factory fans and didn't blow much more air. It's difficult to find a fan that blows more air and is quieter. In general, as you move up to larger fans they become more quiet and blow more air. The 60mm silenx fan fit the bill perfectly. They are MUCH more quiet and I can tell by putting my hand over the fans that they blow more air... I'd say at least 50% more air. If you don't do the light mod, this might not be necessary. My house has been as warm as 79 degrees on a few days (until we started running the air) my tank temps got up to 83 degrees on those days. It didn't cause a problem, but it made me uncomfortable. I don't know if it would cause a problem if I had temps that high for several days in a row or not. With my house at consistently at about 74 degrees with the a/c running, my temps peek at about 80.5 - 81 during the day and fall to about 79.5 - 80 at night. I set my heater at about 78-79 degrees. I found that setting the heater at a lower temp made my night time temps to go lower, but didn't keep my daytime temps from getting higher. I chose to have less fluctuation in temps by setting it at ~78.

 

Good Luck!

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Hi Stallen,

How about a recent picture of that tank of yours. I would really like to see it. I bet it's great.

:D

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Hi Stallen,

How about a recent picture of that tank of yours. I would really like to see it. I bet it's great.

:D

 

Surprisingly not much different than my May 2 FTS. Only difference is that I have one more red shroom that popped up on that same rock and the back wall is about 50% covered with coralline. The torch is a smidge bigger too. I'll get one up soon ;)

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