BioCube 8

[stallen]

Yep, 60mm x 25mm. Had to cut the corner off of one of them to get it to fit.

 

not too much voodoo, but a little!

[stallen]

FTS!!!

 

 

YWG peeking out to say "Hi"

 

Not much to see yet. I'm getting some coraline on the LR.

 

I definately want some Frogspawn and shrooms! Maybe a dwarf feather duster. Maybe a hammer. Maybe even a bird's nest??? My LFS doesn't have squat! I might be making a road trip to premium aquatics.

[Robster]

I'm using Silenx fans. They are low RPM and very quiet so no need for a rheostat... yet. But I might be having a problem

 

 

 

The fan on the right isn't putting out as much air as the fan on the left. I think I'm going to cut off those mounting posts so the fan sits right on the vents. It also doesn't appear to be spinning as fast as the other fan so I might have a bad fan.

 

 

 

Stallen- your decreased flow may be from (if it is anything like the bc29) the one side is somewhat "boxed" in, while the other side is open all around the fan. The secret is to "enclose" the output side of the fan to the vent. by moving the fan closer to the vents you will increase noise, at the same time, and hard to say if the close proximity to the vents may actually decrease the flow. On mine I "enclosed" both of the fans to the vents....very effective (almost too effective).

 

More cooling / more wattage is not necessarily "good" for the fluorescent. achieving maximum light output from fluorescent is a battle of a delicate dance. too hot of ambiant temp around bulb causes too much mercury vaport in the tube (not enough condensation) then tube becomes oversaturated and light output diminishes. too cool ambiant temp then too much vapor condenses leaving not enough vapor in the tube and again light output diminishes. Example when i first finished w/ the 4 bulbs and the stock push/pull with the new fans, temp was too high causing an overall light output of only 5,000+/- lux output. flipping same fans to exhaust and cutting the new vents boosted cooling, but to the opposite extreme...too much cooling the lux moved up to 7,000+/-, but still quite a bit off the 8,500+/- lux capability of the 4 bulbs. (measurement performed at bottom of tank filled with water) Incorrect balanced temp can account for as much as 40% of light output in my experiments. which would then negate any "over-clocking", as I too am doing, however mine is being done with ballasts designed specifically for the 36watt biaxials and driving at a 1.20 ballast factor which simply put means 1.2xmfg lumen output rating; but desinged to maintain the "correct" voltage etc... as the FL is not a resistive load light like an incandescent. I don't know the ramifications of using a ballast that is simply rated to higher wattage (my experience is mis-matched ballast=very short bulb life...saw that at our office, got some fancy balanced light tubes, and they put them in el-cheapo fixture and within a few months tubes were dead)

 

 

Funny you listed crazypc...those are the same guys I got my ccfl's from! I requested a spectrum analysis from the mfg we'll see if they can actually get it. but they give off a nice look...can't wait till I have something in the tank to have them under.

 

FTS looks great! can't wait to see it with your goodies

 

cheers!

-R

[stallen]

I actully was thinking the exact same thing about enclosing/boxing in the other fan. I realize that is the issue. I'm not sure how you enclose your fan. I am thinking about using an adapter like this... http://www.crazypc.com/store/merchant.mvc?...;Category_Code= It should work out nicely. I've ordered from CrazyPC several times. They've always been pretty fast with shipping. newegg.com is the best though!

 

I am following most of what you are saying about the bulbs and ventilation vs. condensation. Slightly over my head I appreciate any advice you can offer. Obvisouly that is what I/we are trying to do is acheive max output with what little space we have to work with.

 

I think my way of thinking is that if the bulb life is shortened, that probably means the bulb has greater output. I realize that could be over-simplistic or faulty logic.

 

BTW, my tank temp. maxed out at 79 with the fuge light on reverse schedule! I would actually like more advice in that area. Since I don't have macro algea in the display, it seems like the pH would be more stabile to run the fuge light 24/7. However, most people advise a reverse schedule.

 

My plan waas to see how long the bulb lasts. If it lasts 5 months, then I was going to start routinely replacing the bulb every 4 months. I'd be perfectly fine with that. If I can only get it to last a couple months, then I will figure it's not worth it and replace the ballast with a matching 18Watt'er.

 

If you got any more advice on this, I'd love to hear it. You just might have to spell it out I don't think I have too much ventilation with these low RPM fans. I love 'em. I can't even tell when the lights/fans turn off/on.

[flyingjeff]

I am assuming Robster if refering to simply sealing one side of the fan from the other, stopping the air from simply being pulled from around the sides of the fan body itself and only through the vent.

 

I would think electrical tape or Duct tape would do the trick, dependng on how the adhesive could bear the heat/humidity.

 

Nice FTS by the way!

[Robster]

Stallen-

 

The material I used was the dyna mat sound dampening material temp rated to 400F i think. that part you listed may work, but it looks a little cumbersome. electrical tape could work i think.

 

 

"I think my way of thinking is that if the bulb life is shortened, that probably means the bulb has greater output. I realize that could be over-simplistic or faulty logic."

 

close but some problems in the logic. The power flowing through the light, especially in fluorescent, does not directly correlate to the light output. You could easily shorten the life of the bulb without gaining any additional light output if all the factors are working in the wrong directions. The Maximum Light output from the FL is derived from "perfect balance"; the simple description would be balance of the bulb, ambiant temp and the ballast.

 

The bulb is pretty much a constant, whereas it has only a certain capacity of output of light ANSI lumens. so its actual output will be somewhere +/- of that rating.

 

The ambient temp is much harder to nail down. room temp, fan speed, ballast factor, and other such items will effect the ambient temp. everything that creates heat, increase of wattage, etc... plays a role. Here's a link that give a rough idea of ambient temp and bulb performance, (T-5 & T-8 are being used in paper)

 

http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/ligh...s/lat5/pc10.asp

 

 

The ballast plays a critcal role in the process also, as it regulates the flow of current through the bulb. the Ballast Factor is a pivotal stat. which is a rating of how much of the ANSI lumens of the bulb the ballast will result in driving. A ballast factor of .90 will yield 90% of the listed ANSI lumens of the bulb, while a 1.00 or 1.20 will drive the bulb at 100% or 120% respectively of the ANSI lumens. They make the Ballast factors for different applications, and for added power saving with lower BF and higher BF for critical lighting/making sure to extract the maximum light output avail. from a fixture.

 

It can all be quite mind numbing, and I was "stuck on stupid" half the time I was researching and learning it.

 

For the fuge, all of my reading etc... points to a reverse cycle to the main tank, having to do something with the photosynthesis. As I understand it, the corals etc... are doing photosynthesis during your day cycle, and by using a reversing cycle it helps keep balance...(I don't have the most indepth tech facts etc...) But Mr. Fosi is a super-stud when it comes to the biology stuff. if you want deeper i'd hit him up for it. but my understanding is reverse cycle helps to stabalize ph etc... not to mention reducing extra heat when everything is on and adding a little heat when the main lights are off (more effective use of electricity).

 

hope that helps

Cheers

-R

[stallen]

Wow... we think alike! I had some dyna-mat left over from when I was doing some ventilation/sound dampening mods to my computer. I didn't want to go too crazy with it because it can have some undesirable insulation effects, but I did put a few strips of dynamat behind the reflector and in a few in other places that I thought might vibrate (like around the fans).

 

I also rummaged through my spare computer parts box and found a 60mm - 80mm fan adapter (almost identicle to the one in the link above). I think I'm going to try to cut it in half (removing the 80mm side of the adaptor) and use some J.B. Weld to bond it in place. That 60mm fan on the right is only attached by one screw right now. With this mod it will be enclosed which should help with flow and I'll be able to securely attach it with four screws.

 

Electrical tape is a pretty good idea, but it would probably be a lint trap. Not to mention it will just bother me that it's not done right in my mind. Also, it will be easy to replace the fan down the road if I have it on a proper mount.

 

Not looking forward to removing the hood again!

[Robster]

Electrical tape is a pretty good idea, but it would probably be a lint trap. Not to mention it will just bother me that it's not done right in my mind. Also, it will be easy to replace the fan down the road if I have it on a proper mount.

 

Not looking forward to removing the hood again!

 

 

Well, I didn't want to make it sound like the only option I had for you was to go spend big bucks on dynamat....my fingers resisted me as I typed electrical tape.

 

sounds like your on the right track. to get the super fine tuning of light output you will need a Lux meter. not a bad thing to have around in my opinion help keep from changing bulbs too quickly, or not soon enough. Premium aquatics has one for $69 that's the one I picked up...it's not lab grade by any stretch of the imagination, but effective.

 

-R

[stallen]

Well, I didn't want to make it sound like the only option I had for you was to go spend big bucks on dynamat....my fingers resisted me as I typed electrical tape.

 

sounds like your on the right track. to get the super fine tuning of light output you will need a Lux meter. not a bad thing to have around in my opinion help keep from changing bulbs too quickly, or not soon enough. Premium aquatics has one for $69 that's the one I picked up...it's not lab grade by any stretch of the imagination, but effective.

 

-R

 

I already had the dynamat. You might have some higher grade stuff than I do. I used this stuff... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6EYBZKrJOAS/c...;search=dynamat Only $20 for 2 10" x 10" sheets. Worked great with my computer. So I figured I'd use some for this project. I still have about half a sheet left after two projects.

[Robster]

I already had the dynamat. You might have some higher grade stuff than I do. I used this stuff... Worked great with my computer. So I figured I'd use some for this project. I still have about half a sheet left after two projects.

 

That looks perfect! and yes the stuff I had (left over from a job ) came in pack of 4sqft. at about $80 ($20/sheet). for all intent and purpose the same thing. I think the main difference is # of layers and thickness....for a home theater yeah it matters, but for this...naw..same thing.

 

-R

[djitchy]

Well STALLEN.....I DID IT!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

and its soooo awesome!!!!! i can't believe how much brighter it is....Thanks for all your help and inspiration....I tip my hat off to you.....

 

 

I will try to get pictures as soon as I get my digital camera back from the shop.....

[stallen]

Awesome djitchy! It's a huge difference isn't it? If you look at it for awhile and then unplug the new bulb you'll be amazed how much brighter it is!

 

I can't wait to see some pics!

[djitchy]

Here are a few pics of the work in progress....

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some quick pics that I took... the camera does not do the brightness of the light any justice....

 

 

and here's a front tank shot.

 

 

 

 

And BTW, I have the stock actinic bulb in the front, the stock daylight in the back, and a 50/50 bulb from nanocustoms in the middle.

 

 

Thanks STALLEN!!!!!!

[stoney waters]

Stallen, Your tank is coming along great. Seems you have caught the mod fever.

I like what you have done with the fuge light.

 

Weren't you considering cold cathode lighting also?

[SaltyVT]

DJ, Are those sun corals I see???

[stallen]

@ dj - Glad the tips on the light mod worked out for you. I considered the same light setup you having (using a 50/50 bulb) but I thought corals would prefer having more 10,000K spectrum. I'm sure it looks a little better with the extra actinic.

 

WOW, your tank looks awesome! How long has your tank been up? I'm still learning about corals so, what is this?

 

Is your sun coral opening up? Also is that some SPS I see in the middle right side?

 

 

@ Stoney - I was considering a cold cathode tube. What benefit do you get from it? Is it just for moonlight or does it enhance color any during the day (like an actinic)?

 

@ Salty - w'sup yo

[djitchy]

@Salty

 

Yes...sun cora

 

@stallen

 

Thanks for all the kind words!

 

Tank has been running for about 3 months. That green thing is an open brain coral. Yes the sun coral opens up, usually later in the evening. Ill try to get a picture of it when it does. No SPS in my tank...that's a finger leather coral (very hardy).

[stoney waters]

@ Stoney - I was considering a cold cathode tube. What benefit do you get from it? Is it just for moonlight or does it enhance color any during the day (like an actinic)?

 

I use them mainly for night viewing, it gives the water a more even glow. I like them better than LED's for this purpose. It does have some color benefit during daylight but it is negligible. It is an easy install, I use the same transformer as the LED's but switch them separately. I recommend them.

[djitchy]

"Is your sun coral opening up?"

 

 

ok Stallen...i don't want to hijack your thread...sorry...just got really excited with the light mod that you showed me.

 

STALLEN is the master!!!

[stallen]

@ dj - you bastard! I'm so jealous I want some corals but my LFS has nothing I'm interested in.

 

@ stoney - you are not a bastard... I have indeed caught the mod fever. I think I might do the cold cathode tube mod. It looks like you have yours mounted outside the cover so I guess it's water proof. Or did you do something to protect it from water. Also, is there a way I can just wire it up with my existing LEDs. I'd rather not have to get another ac/dc adapter. I'd probably just run it 24/7 along with the LEDs.

 

@ dj - I've thought it over... you are not a bastard either. I apologize.

[stallen]

I suppose I could get rid of the LEDs all together and use the existing wiring for two cold cathode tubes inside the cover on the sides. Like this...

 

 

Do you think that would be too much light for the fish at night?

[djitchy]

Stallen....where do you live?

[Robster]

I suppose I could get rid of the LEDs all together and use the existing wiring for two cold cathode tubes inside the cover on the sides. Like this...

 

Do you think that would be too much light for the fish at night?

 

Stallen-

 

I too like the look of the cold cathode. more even, less "hotspots" from the focal points of the led's. I squeezed them in between the fans above the heat shield. Don't you have room there also (though mine is the BC29)???? While I was at it, I also slapped in a pair of CCFL Blacklites (on a seperate switch) for some added fun and pictures, since many corals are known to fluoresce under NM's in the UV spectrum.

 

-R

[stallen]

@ dj - I live in Champaign/Urbana Illinois. We only have one decent LFS in town. Because of my schedule I haven't had an opportunity to take a road trip to any other LFS. I'm willing to drive over to Indy to Premium Aquatics. I'd love to check it out! But they are only open to the public for a few hours on Fridays and Saturdays and my schedule hasn't allowed the trip. Other than that, I'd have to go up to the Chicago area or down to the STL area as far as I know.

 

All I want are some shrooms (bright red), frogspawn (green with pink or purple tips), some pulsing xenia, and I'm thinking one of these three: open brain, torch, or long tenticle plate coral. If I went somewhere with a good selection who knows what I would end up with really! I'm afraid to order online right now. It's friggin' freezing out!

 

Where do you live?

 

@ Robster - got a link to those lights you are using?

[SaltyVT]

I want sun corals!!!!!!! I am thinking you should frag and send my some

 

Stallen, you would be able to hold a certain clam too under PC's if that interests you. the name of it has left me, long night of bowling and drinks......... I learned that the more drinks I have the worst I roll. I think my average last night was 55........

Anyhoo, Frogspawn are great, I got the anchored variety, Bruce (LFS owner) Said this would be the slowest growing, so it wouldn't take over the tank quickly. You should look into Rics too. I need to find some for myself. You could always ask your LFS to order your corals for you. That way you don't have to worry about shipping and handling charges!