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Home Office Shallow Reef


geekreef_05

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TheKleinReef

that's a separate problem you also didn't account for/ignored.

you knew you were gonna be away from tank for extended periods of time, but had no one check on it? no monitoring of any kind?

 

that's a big gamble with literally no reward.

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InAtTheDeepEnd

I worded that poorly but what I'm trying to say is the pH number itself isn't all that important by itself. Rather it's all the things which combine to give you your pH (dissolved gases trace elements etc). If you chase a certain number without looking deeper you will get problems....

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geekreef_05

Reef Update:

Water clarity is gradually improving. 

 

The reef is stinky though. Strong sulfurous smell is emitting as the bacteria die off.

 

20240118_101754.thumb.jpg.afa83416e084cd7694f87cccc3093a6e.jpg

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geekreef_05
41 minutes ago, TheKleinReef said:

that's a separate problem you also didn't account for/ignored.

you knew you were gonna be away from tank for extended periods of time, but had no one check on it? no monitoring of any kind?

 

that's a big gamble with literally no reward.

The tank has some live monitoring. Its off now. But at the time i had live parameters including temp, pH, ammonia, etc. 

 

I knew the tank was having problems within the first 48hrs. 

 

My wife was home for some of it, but not all. And she kept me upto date. She added fresh RO water at times to help. But i cant expect her or anyone to diagnose and fix reef problems when im gone. 

 

The reward of going away is making money to live lol. 

 

So for the reef tank, its a high risk period and i recongize that. 

 

Which is why automation has to be reliable on my reef. And as I said, I spent alot of time to improve the automation after the crash, this spring/summer. 

 

Its important to take a step back and consider. We are all super dependent on reef technology. From heaters to lights, when anything breaks, its gonna be problematic. Only question is...how bad.

 

My alternative is to give up reefing until i retire or stop travelling. 

 

That would suck 

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geekreef_05
24 minutes ago, InAtTheDeepEnd said:

I worded that poorly but what I'm trying to say is the pH number itself isn't all that important by itself. Rather it's all the things which combine to give you your pH (dissolved gases trace elements etc). If you chase a certain number without looking deeper you will get problems....

 

I agree that pH, like all parameters, are linked in a cycle with other factors and that one should consider the big picture and all the factors.

 

That said, I think you're making assumptions without realizing everything that ive tried to raise pH. Maybe go back through this thread.

 

And i believe pH as a number is important. It has been shown that coral growth and colouration has a market improvement at the 8.3 to 8.5 pH range.

 

Check out BRS episodes on pH comparisons if your looking for more intel.

 

In my case, i was hoping to keep a stable pH of even 8.1 and that was hard for my reef. I have a chronically low pH of 7.7-7.8. 

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geekreef_05

Why is your pH 7.8? Lol.

 

Its low. Thats the lower limit for healthy long term marine life. 

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InAtTheDeepEnd

if you look, i'm just cycling a new tank, it wasnt a personal comment more a general one. I thought fluctuations throughout the day in pH were normal but open to correction because I'm a reef noob still

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geekreef_05
22 minutes ago, InAtTheDeepEnd said:

if you look, i'm just cycling a new tank, it wasnt a personal comment more a general one. I thought fluctuations throughout the day in pH were normal but open to correction because I'm a reef noob still

Thats cool. I will totally check out your thread. 

 

Your right, daily fluctuations are normal for almost all parameters, on reef aquarium (not as much in the ocean). In terms of pH we're talking about +/- 0.1 daily fluctuation being normal and safe. If an aquarium fluctuates +/-1 per day, that would be dangerous.  

 

This is a dinural relationship, where pH is dropping at night. 

 

In my case, I was trying to bring my pH from a low of 7.7 to 8.3. In the end, I was satisfied with 8.1. But getting there wasnt a single simple solution. I got there with a combination of adding a skimmer for more 02, creating a DIY C02 scrubber for the skimmer, attempting to make my home furnace more effective and dosing Soda Ash. Along the way i tried things that didnt work and tried again. At the end I was getting closer to a chemical / dosing balance, but as Ive stated before, far from stability.  

 

pH is good topic to learn about. Its linked to a number of key indicators including ALK and 02, which are key factors on the reef. Its also interesting because in recent years, more about pH has been discovered in terms of what range coral prefer. Check out that BRS video for some more info. 

 

Ask anything about this anytime. Im happy to help folks on their journey and explain the rationale behind what Im doing with my particular reef. 

 

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geekreef_05

UPDATE: 

Water clarity has improved over the weekend. Its possible to see lengthwise through the 4ft reef.

 

 

20240122_112414.thumb.jpg.47d11fb3ad9b4cbd02e0248c39449c60.jpg

 

 17059390388587678696137624235663.thumb.jpg.cdcc3052911da1e9a5f24e53df61dc82.jpg

 

 

 

 

Up close there is a layer of algae. Without the lights and filter, the rockwork is a deep green colour. Perhaps the ugly phase as kicked-in. Its evenly and fully spread across the rockwork. 

 

17059391192621052343436647918098.jpg

 

 

There is no longer any smell or indication of the terrible bacterial bloom. I'll continue to leave the UV Sterilizer running.

 

 

NEXT STEPS

At somepoint today I'll change out the carbon filter and filter pads. 

This evening, I'll do some water tests. See what the basic parameters are at. 

 

20240122_110303.jpg

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Good news!  Sounds like the rocks are maturing.  Speaking of LR, just had a thought come to mind.  It may be beneficial to get your hands on some mature rock from maybe an LFS or online seller.  It may provide a bit of boost to turn the microbial tides of the tank.  Heck, I've been considering doing it myself to bolster my bacterial/microfaunal populations.  Don't think it would hurt at all.  

 

Tank was a dry start right?

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geekreef_05

Ya, it was dry start.

 

I added alot of bacteria in a bottle when the reef got started. I like that idea over LR, giving the tank less chance to be host for aptasia or bubble algae.  

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4 hours ago, geekreef_05 said:

Ya, it was dry start.

 

I added alot of bacteria in a bottle when the reef got started. I like that idea over LR, giving the tank less chance to be host for aptasia or bubble algae.  

I can understand that - but after doing the same in my 14 I think im now willing to take the risk of pest addition.. Prior to bottled bac and 100% dry starts i never had any issues with dinos, bacterial blooms..yada yada.  I fear we have gotten too far away from what we know works..

 

Regardless, I think the UV is setting you up for success! Can’t wait to see this thing get right. 

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geekreef_05

I totally agree. I miss the days of LR being prolific. Really kicking myself for getting out of the hobby and letting all that rock go...

 

..besides the common Fiji rock i had some beautiful Vanuatu rock..

 

....after years of ridding bubble and aptasia and getting the rock to a nice point...so good at filteration. 

 

With dry rock the hair algae is insane and the lack of coralline is astonishing. 

 

So.. I will give your idea serious consideration.

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10 hours ago, geekreef_05 said:

I totally agree. I miss the days of LR being prolific. Really kicking myself for getting out of the hobby and letting all that rock go...

 

..besides the common Fiji rock i had some beautiful Vanuatu rock..

 

....after years of ridding bubble and aptasia and getting the rock to a nice point...so good at filteration. 

 

With dry rock the hair algae is insane and the lack of coralline is astonishing. 

 

So.. I will give your idea serious consideration.

That's an interesting point about the coralline - I remember you had added some of the booster to stuff to hopefully get a headstart.  My rocks are BARELY covered after a year and a few months.  Grows great on the glass and back wall/snail shells..just not prolifically on the rocks.  No clue why.  I certainly would like it too haha I would imagine that's just competition for all the stuff I don't want.  Wonder if there is a connection..

 

I think I had read a thread that mentioned this and it essentially stated that the dry rock just has multiple phases it goes through before actually having the ability for coralline to settle on the surface.  I'm sure they're building multiple layers of different biofilm and going through community changes relatively frequently.  

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geekreef_05

Last night i got some late night pictures with just the room lights on (no tank lights). 

 

20240123_005049.thumb.jpg.24e4211e62f682e022882fa1ff4e4180.jpg

 

clarity is good. Alot of algae. One nass snail still alive! 

 

20240123_005038.thumb.jpg.9797fec87f23d5c7bdd05af41019a0fb.jpg

 

In these next two photos, there's a close up of the algae covering the rockwork, but also this white substance that looks like precipitate or aftermath of something.

 

If anyone can identify it, let me know. In this spot its easy to see. But its actually got spots of this stuff throughout the sandbed too.

 

20240123_005057.thumb.jpg.8fc21583b4720b2beb562b0b961aaea5.jpg

 

Lets get closer...

 

20240123_004957.thumb.jpg.5a9c2c28b006b4e3ca0f7684c3bbbfe6.jpg

 

eeeeeeewwwwwwww. Lol. 

What is it? 

20240123_005020.jpg

 

Fungus?! 

Bacteria left over?

Its grossss. 

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geekreef_05

Parameter Check (Jan 24, 1530):

Temp: 80F

pH: 7.8

Amm: 0

Nitrate: 5 

dKH: 9.2

Calc: 475

Mg: 1000 

 

Hm. Those arent bad. I think this answers the question about if decaying matter is stuck in the rockwork.

 

I suppose the next step is to handle this aglae problem. I might check my LFS out for an urchin to handle the algae.

 

Edit: Its freezing rain, roads are icy. I'll just complete the testing and shop online. 

 

Analysis

Calcium is high. Mg is low. Otherwise seems ok.

 

Next Steps:

Reboot dosing system.

Reboot Seneye Monitoring

Shop Online for Urchin. 

Prep 30% WC to remove white stuff. 

 

Think deep thoughts about fish.

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geekreef_05

Update: 

 

Weird white crystaline stuff is half the size today. So gross.

 

 

Water change prepin

Seneye slide prepin

Ordered an urchin...and some fish. 

 

20240125_133511.thumb.jpg.efd49ec34c02dc9d32b819505bcf8d83.jpg

 

...the livestock will arrive next week. Gives me a few days to prep. 

 

 

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geekreef_05

 

I ORDERED:    
Captive Bred Gold Stripe Maroon (x2)  
Captive Bred Orchid Dottyback (x1)    
Flame Angelfish - Medium (2"-3") (x1)    
Red Tuxedo Urchin (x1) 

 

..and a small Xenia and GSP frag. Just to test the waters. 

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49 minutes ago, geekreef_05 said:

 

I ORDERED:    
Captive Bred Gold Stripe Maroon (x2)  
Captive Bred Orchid Dottyback (x1)    
Flame Angelfish - Medium (2"-3") (x1)    
Red Tuxedo Urchin (x1) 

 

..and a small Xenia and GSP frag. Just to test the waters. 

I've always loved the flame angels 🙂

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geekreef_05
29 minutes ago, InAtTheDeepEnd said:

seems like a big bioload to add to such an unstable system at once. Fingers crossed it all works out for you.

Ya, I could wait 2 years for full stability with just snails. But this reef has already been outta the gate.

 

These fish are replacing bioload. Not starting fresh at this point. 

Gotta think 4th dimensionally with your bioload conceptual thinking.

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