Help is my bubble tip dying

[Jakewoods]

I have had this bubble tip for about six or seven weeks. It was doing really well for the first few weeks but been on the decline. I do 20% 25% water change every weekend. Water parameters are always good. It’s in a 180 litres tank. Tank is 5 months old. The first two photos were this morning then the next two were tonight 

[seabass]

It could just be pooping.

 

5 hours ago, Jakewoods said:

parameters are always good

That can mean different things to different people.  You'll want detectable nitrate and phosphate.

 

How often, what, and how much do you feed it?

[NoOneLikesADryTang]

I don’t see anything wrong with it. One of my colorados totally deflates every night, and the next morning is bubbled back up. At this point, I wouldn’t do anything but monitor it. 

[Jakewoods]

On 7/27/2022 at 3:14 AM, seabass said:

It could just be pooping.

 

That can mean different things to different people.  You'll want detectable nitrate and phosphate.

 

How often, what, and how much do you feed it?

I feed some it some prawn ony fed it twice the pet shop said hold off on feeding if it looks stressed. The last couple days it’s been hovering around top of tank. I don’t have any phosphate but do have a little nitrate. All other levels are pretty good. 

[seabass]

Undetectable phosphate is a problem for photosynthetic life.  I'd consider dosing phosphate.

 

Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium are also low.  Water changes might help replenish these element; however, if consumption is too fast, you might have to dose these as well.

 

Reef Parameters:

	Recommended Reef Tank Parameters
	Parameter:	Recommended Reef Tank Values:	Typical Ocean Reef Values:*
	Temperature	76 to 83° F (up to 84° F)	83 to 86° F
	Salinity	34 to 35 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.026	34 to 36 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.027
	Ammonia	Less than 0.1 ppm	Less than 0.1 ppm
	Nitrite	Less than 0.2 ppm	Below 0.0001 ppm
	Nitrate	3 to 10 ppm (up to 20 ppm)	Below 0.1 ppm
	Phosphate	0.03 to 0.10 ppm (up to 0.20 ppm)	0.005 ppm
	pH	7.8 to 8.3 (up to 8.4)	8.0 to 8.3
	Alkalinity	2.5 to 4 meq/L 7 to 11 dKH 125 to 200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents	2.5 meq/L 7 dKH 125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
	Calcium	380 to 450 ppm	420 ppm
	Magnesium	1250 to 1350 ppm	1280 ppm
			* Ocean Values provided by Randy Holmes-Farley

 

 

2 hours ago, Jakewoods said:

only fed it twice, the pet shop said hold off on feeding if it looks stressed.

It doesn't look that stressed.  Prawn might be a little big for it.  I'd try feeding it a little mysis shrimp (or any small frozen fish food).  Don't feed it too much, or too often (twice a week should be fine).

 

 

2 hours ago, Jakewoods said:

The last couple days it’s been hovering around top of tank.

Probably looking for more light (and/or food).

[DevilDuck]

If they re-inflate a few days later, this is normal. Are they staying deflated for days or weeks? It maybe more cause for concern.

 

I've lost two smaller bubble tips to something similar. They were large when I first got them but would start to shrink down to nothing over the course of 2-3 months.

When my new ultra colorful bta started doing this too I suspected some type of bacterial infection and dose the tank with aquatic Cipro. I dosed the bare minimum concentration for  10 days. See my post here: 

 

 

[Jakewoods]

6 hours ago, seabass said:

Undetectable phosphate is a problem for photosynthetic life.  I'd consider dosing phosphate.

 

Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium are also low.  Water changes might help replenish these element; however, if consumption is too fast, you might have to dose these as well.

 

Reef Parameters:

	Recommended Reef Tank Parameters
	Parameter:	Recommended Reef Tank Values:	Typical Ocean Reef Values:*
	Temperature	76 to 83° F (up to 84° F)	83 to 86° F
	Salinity	34 to 35 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.026	34 to 36 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.027
	Ammonia	Less than 0.1 ppm	Less than 0.1 ppm
	Nitrite	Less than 0.2 ppm	Below 0.0001 ppm
	Nitrate	3 to 10 ppm (up to 20 ppm)	Below 0.1 ppm
	Phosphate	0.03 to 0.10 ppm (up to 0.20 ppm)	0.005 ppm
	pH	7.8 to 8.3 (up to 8.4)	8.0 to 8.3
	Alkalinity	2.5 to 4 meq/L 7 to 11 dKH 125 to 200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents	2.5 meq/L 7 dKH 125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
	Calcium	380 to 450 ppm	420 ppm
	Magnesium	1250 to 1350 ppm	1280 ppm
			* Ocean Values provided by Randy Holmes-Farley

 

 

It doesn't look that stressed.  Prawn might be a little big for it.  I'd try feeding it a little mysis shrimp (or any small frozen fish food).  Don't feed it too much, or too often (twice a week should be fine).

 

 

Probably looking for more light (and/or food).

Why would I not be getting any phosphate I haven’t had any in the tank at all. The tank would be 6 months old. I do a water change every weekend about 20% of 180liters about 47 gallons. I am thinking there’s to much flow I don’t have any wave makers just jets from above that come from return pump 

[seabass]

1 hour ago, Jakewoods said:

Why would I not be getting any phosphate

Not exactly sure, but your kit might not report phosphate below 0.1ppm, and all photosynthetic consumes it, plus water changes will export both phosphate and nitrate.

 

 

1 hour ago, Jakewoods said:

I am thinking there’s to much flow I don’t have any wave makers just jets from above that come from return pump

Do you mean too direct/concentrated?  Yeah, if the flow is too direct, the anemone will likely move away from it.

[NoOneLikesADryTang]

1 hour ago, Jakewoods said:

I am thinking there’s to much flow I don’t have any wave makers just jets from above that come from return pump 

I doubt this is the case. In my experience, a healthy bubble tip can take a lot of flow. Lots of flow, means lots of opportunities for food.

[Pjanssen]

I agree with @seabassthat most of your parameters are fairly low in general, but if they are stable (consistently those numbers) then it shouldn't be a stresser. As far as having no detectable phosphates-Is there any algae growing in the tank? Algae consumes phosphates faster than anything else and can cause inaccurate testing.

 

You said the BTA was doing well for the 1st few weeks. Do you have a picture of it from when you think it was at its best for comparison? It doesn't look bad to me.

 

It looks a little like it may be splitting.

[Jakewoods]

3 hours ago, Pjanssen said:

I agree with @seabassthat most of your parameters are fairly low in general, but if they are stable (consistently those numbers) then it shouldn't be a stresser. As far as having no detectable phosphates-Is there any algae growing in the tank? Algae consumes phosphates faster than anything else and can cause inaccurate testing.

 

You said the BTA was doing well for the 1st few weeks. Do you have a picture of it from when you think it was at its best for comparison? It doesn't look bad to me.

 

It looks a little like it may be splitting.

Yeah it was going good those levels are pretty steady like that. I’ll post some pictures from when I first got it to know and a couple of recent water tests I am very keen to learn or to try make him as happy as possible 

[Jakewoods]

Just now, Jakewoods said:

Yeah it was going good those levels are pretty steady like that. I’ll post some pictures from when I first got it to know and a couple of recent water tests I am very keen to learn or to try make him as happy as possible 

That second last photo is this morning 

[seabass]

While I would agree that stability of alkalinity is often much more important than the actual value, the lack of nutrients is still concerning.

 

I'm also wondering about your lighting.  What are the dimensions of your tank, and which light(s) do you have above it?

[RaymondNoodles]

Is your salinity stable? Do you have an ATO?

 

Seems like it’s moving around a lot. In my experience that could be flow or light related. What light are you using? How many hours of light/day? All the pics appear to be in very low light but that could just be the camera or perhaps time of day you’re taking pics.  Also noticed in one of the pics the return nozzle is aiming down at a very steep angle so it could be getting blasted with too much flow. Might want to try aiming the nozzle closer to the surface. 

[Pjanssen]

I would not call those numbers stable. Alk went from 7.0 to 7.3 to 6.8. Not crazy swings, but not exactly stable.

 

That being said, the Anem looks pretty good-the foot is clearly intact. I think it's just trying to find its happy place. Like others have said, try adjusting your flow a bit and maybe ramping up your lights (slowly). Research dosing Phosphates and always start small if you decide you want to go that route. @RaymondNoodlesmade a good point about salinity, probably the most important element to keep as stable as possible, followed very closly by alkalinity. An ATO will change your reefing life!

[Pjanssen]

13 hours ago, Jakewoods said:

Why would I not be getting any phosphate I haven’t had any in the tank at all. The tank would be 6 months old. I do a water change every weekend about 20% of 180liters about 47 gallons.

Your tank does look very pristine, which sounds like a good thing but its not. Your tank is pretty young, perhaps too young to support an anem without some extra help. Try less frequent water changes and more feeding to help boost nutrients. Don't go crazy, little adjustments can go a long way. 

 

Is the anem the only animal in the tank besides the2 starfish (it doesn't look like they have much to eat in the sand bed either).

[Jakewoods]

2 minutes ago, Pjanssen said:

Your tank does look very pristine, which sounds like a good thing but its not. Your tank is pretty young, perhaps too young to support an anem without some extra help. Try less frequent water changes and more feeding to help boost nutrients. Don't go crazy, little adjustments can go a long way. 

 

Is the anem the only animal in the tank besides the2 starfish (it doesn't look like they have much to eat in the sand bed either).

I think it’s dying I do get some brown algae but I clean it. There is two clowns in there too 

[Jakewoods]

31 minutes ago, Pjanssen said:

I would not call those numbers stable. Alk went from 7.0 to 7.3 to 6.8. Not crazy swings, but not exactly stable.

 

That being said, the Anem looks pretty good-the foot is clearly intact. I think it's just trying to find its happy place. Like others have said, try adjusting your flow a bit and maybe ramping up your lights (slowly). Research dosing Phosphates and always start small if you decide you want to go that route. @RaymondNoodlesmade a good point about salinity, probably the most important element to keep as stable as possible, followed very closly by alkalinity. An ATO will change your reefing life!

What’s an ato. My salinity did drop a bit a few days ago. But now his worse then ever should I pull it out 

Just now, Jakewoods said:

What’s an ato. My salinity did drop a bit a few days ago. But now his worse then ever should I pull it out 

Or feed it. I don’t know what to do 

[seabass]

An ATO is an acronym for an automatic top off system.  It helps to maintain salinity by automatically making up for evaporation.

 

No you can't feed it in this condition.  It needs to be removed once its foot can no longer hold on.  But I agree, this last photo looks real bad (especially the gaping mouth).

[seabass]

7 hours ago, Pjanssen said:

Alk went from 7.0 to 7.3 to 6.8

I was attributing that to deviation due to the SpinTouchFX, as alkalinity typically wouldn't jump up on its own.  I assume that alkalinity is somewhere around 7dKH.  Which is still low for most reef salts.

[NoOneLikesADryTang]

Do you have more than one anemone in that tank? I thought I saw a grey/brown foot and now I’m seeing an orange/red one.

 

Also, I don’t think that’s a bubble tip. I think it may be a magnificent anemone (Heteractis magnifica). They generally don’t do well if there are any bubble tips (Entacmaea quadricolor). 

[Pjanssen]

6 hours ago, Jakewoods said:

What’s an ato. My salinity did drop a bit a few days ago. But now his worse then ever should I pull it out 

Or feed it. I don’t know what to do 

it doesn't look good. I'd remove it before it pollutes the rest of the tank. If you have a holding tank to put it in to see if it will recover than do that.

[Tamberav]

On 8/2/2022 at 7:38 AM, seabass said:

Undetectable phosphate is a problem for photosynthetic life.  I'd consider dosing phosphate.

 

Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium are also low.  Water changes might help replenish these element; however, if consumption is too fast, you might have to dose these as well.

 

Reef Parameters:

	Recommended Reef Tank Parameters
	Parameter:	Recommended Reef Tank Values:	Typical Ocean Reef Values:*
	Temperature	76 to 83° F (up to 84° F)	83 to 86° F
	Salinity	34 to 35 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.026	34 to 36 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.027
	Ammonia	Less than 0.1 ppm	Less than 0.1 ppm
	Nitrite	Less than 0.2 ppm	Below 0.0001 ppm
	Nitrate	3 to 10 ppm (up to 20 ppm)	Below 0.1 ppm
	Phosphate	0.03 to 0.10 ppm (up to 0.20 ppm)	0.005 ppm
	pH	7.8 to 8.3 (up to 8.4)	8.0 to 8.3
	Alkalinity	2.5 to 4 meq/L 7 to 11 dKH 125 to 200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents	2.5 meq/L 7 dKH 125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
	Calcium	380 to 450 ppm	420 ppm
	Magnesium	1250 to 1350 ppm	1280 ppm
			* Ocean Values provided by Randy Holmes-Farley

 

 

It doesn't look that stressed.  Prawn might be a little big for it.  I'd try feeding it a little mysis shrimp (or any small frozen fish food).  Don't feed it too much, or too often (twice a week should be fine).

 

 

Probably looking for more light (and/or food).

 

Just FYI. The test he is using for phosphate is not accurate. It could actually be there. The phosphate test on that kit has very poor range. My guess is that is a tester from the LFS as pretty sure those are very expensive. 

[Tamberav]

2 hours ago, NoOneLikesADryTang said:

Do you have more than one anemone in that tank? I thought I saw a grey/brown foot and now I’m seeing an orange/red one.

 

Also, I don’t think that’s a bubble tip. I think it may be a magnificent anemone (Heteractis magnifica). They generally don’t do well if there are any bubble tips (Entacmaea quadricolor). 

 

Agree, I also thought it was not a BTA. A magnifica is more difficult. 😞

[Tamberav]

@Jakewoods I would suggest you buy your own test kits. NOT API but red sea/salifert or hannah. This would be a good use for $$$.

 

Your rock is fake painted rock and not super mature yet. The tank looks young/new.

 

That nem is not a BTA, I believe you were sold a different more difficult nem.

 

I see you have sand sifting starfish (two?). They do not do well in newer tanks and they may die at some point, it takes awhile for them to starve, a year seems average. FYI any tank with dry rock less then a few years old is pretty new. 

 

I am just letting you know, research and think carefully about your purchases as I am seeing things in your tank your LFS should not have sold you yet. I feel like they may be steering you in the wrong direction with livestock purchases.