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Fuge Basket in 20 Gal. AIO - Effective?


MJD4

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I have a Red Sea Max Nano 20 Gallon tank. I have minimal space in the back. It comes equipped with a protein skimmer and a small ATO unit in the back overflow chamber. If I replace the ATO unit, I have a small 3x3x3.5 space, right before the return pump, (after the Filter Sock & protein skimmer) where I could possibly put a Fuge basket with a light to help with nutrient export. Has anyone had success with this (possibly pictures). And yes, I do 25% water changes weekly, and I am about 2.5 months into this thank. 

 

- Is this an effective nutrient export method (given limited actual space)?

- Is there another nutrient export method that would be better given the details above?

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I have a hang on back filter (AC70) on my 9.6 gallon tank and I let algae grow on the "spillway" portion of the filter where water flows back into the tank.  I have a Kessil light over the center of the tank so plenty of light shines over the filter.  My thought it that if algae is growing there (on filter), there should be less growing in the tank.  For the most part it is working.  I am not too obsessive about keeping any and all long type algae from growing in my tank.  I just scrape it off when it gets too long.  My corals (all softies) are thriving and multiplying/spreading so to me that is more important than having zero algae in the tank.  

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1 hour ago, MJD4 said:

I am about 2.5 months into this thank. 

I would suggest keeping the ATO.

 

What makes you think you need "nutrient export"?

 

Can you post your latest test results and tell a little history on them?

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5 hours ago, mcarroll said:

I would suggest keeping the ATO.

 

What makes you think you need "nutrient export"?

 

Can you post your latest test results and tell a little history on them?

I would change out the ATO for an electronic version that would have a larger reservoir in the cabinet and would do both the ATO and AWC. This would leave me with some extra room in the back of the AIO unit which I am contemplating adding Cheto too. 
 

My Ammonia and Nitrates are .5 and 10 PPM respectively. I had a Mandarine Goby die (there are plenty of copepods) and it made me worry about the tank as I begin to add more fish and coral (slowly). It has just never been fully 0 on the Ammonia and Nitrates but has been .25 and 5 PPM but never lower than that. It’s been 3 months. 
 

I just want something that can get the numbers down to a more manageable level so that I feel more comfortable adding more fish 

 

I currently have 3 cerith snails, 2 trochus, 2 nassarious snails, 3 small hermit crabs, 1 fire red shrimp, 6 line wrasse, and a two spot goby.

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4 hours ago, MJD4 said:

My Ammonia and Nitrates are .5 and 10 PPM respectively. I had a Mandarine Goby die (there are plenty of copepods) and it made me worry about the tank as I begin to add more fish and coral (slowly). It has just never been fully 0 on the Ammonia and Nitrates but has been .25 and 5 PPM but never lower than that. It’s been 3 months. 

After that amount of time I'd question your ammonia test results.  Unless something happened you're aware of that would have stopped bacteria from growing (ie filtering your water too much too soon) the ammonia processors will generally "kick in" within 30-40 days – with or without help from us.

 

Can you get your water tested at the LFS, or use your test kits on some other reference (eg tap water) to see if it gives slightly more positive results than you'd expect?  If your tap water reads .5 ppm for ammonia too, then something it probably wrong with the test kit.  (Maybe test some distilled water instead of tap water to be really sure.)

 

5ppm of nitrate isn't much.  Nothing you'd want to export in a new tank like this.  

 

Take it easy on any filtering, cleaning or water changing until the system is well established.

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