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Kindanewtothis

Kinda's "Magnificent" 50 and what not to do...

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seabass

0.31ppm of phosphate is high.  I'm not sure, but maybe it's even the reason that your mushroom isn't fully extended.

 

Phosphate removers are a potential problem; but if you closely monitor levels while using them, they can be used.  Phosphate should be reduced slowly, so less is generally better than more.  Also, you should not bottom out phosphate levels; I'd stop at about 0.10 ppm.

 

I can't remember if you have a place for chemical filter media.  If so, you might try something like Seachem PhosGuard.  Again, using less than directed, but changing it out more frequently.  I'm not sure what (if any) lanthanum chloride products you might have available in Canada, but that's another popular (although more controversial) solution.

 

Remember that water changes are another way to reduce phosphate.  A 50% water change should drop phosphate in half.  Using water changes and dosing nitrate is another viable option.

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Kindanewtothis
13 minutes ago, seabass said:

Phosphate removers are a potential problem; but if you closely monitor levels while using them, they can be used

It seems the easier. How often do I test it while I use the remover?

 

https://dyno.ca/en/shop/6825-fluval-106206-and-107207-phosphate-remover-3-pack-.html?q=%2Fen%2Fboutique%2F6825-eliminateur-de-phosphate-fluval-106206-et-107207-paquet-de-3-.html

 

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seabass

If dosing lanthanum chloride, the results will be pretty sudden.  If using a binder like PhosGuard the results will be more gradual.  But I'd test once a day so you can see what's going on, and when the binder gets exhausted.

 

If you have a place for chemical media, I'd probably go the PhosGuard route.

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Kindanewtothis
20 minutes ago, seabass said:

If dosing lanthanum chloride, the results will be pretty sudden.  If using a binder like PhosGuard the results will be more gradual.  But I'd test once a day so you can see what's going on, and when the binder gets exhausted.

 

If you have a place for chemical media, I'd probably go the PhosGuard route.

I'm lost. I'll get the remover I linked before and will test every 24h until it drops to .10 then I will take out the remover from the filter and test again after 24h.

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Kindanewtothis

Also what about that ammonia that totally droped in the 10 gallons?

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seabass
7 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I'm lost. I'll get the remover I linked before and will test every 24h until it drops to .10 then I will take out the remover from the filter and test again after 24h.

Are you running a Fluval 06 or 07 canister filter?

 

4 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Also what about that ammonia that totally droped in the 10 gallons?

Obviously that's good. 👍

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Kindanewtothis
1 minute ago, seabass said:

Are you running a Fluval 06 or 07 canister filter?

 

Obviously that's good. 👍

A fluval 207.

 

Regarding the ammonia in the 10 gallons I meant what's next? I check if it rises again for a few days and also nitrate? 

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rough eye

when algae starts growing in that 50 gallon it will use up the phosphates. it's a part of cycling a tank.

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seabass
11 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Regarding the ammonia in the 10 gallons I meant what's next? I check if it rises again for a few days

Ammonia is where it should be.  It won't suddenly start to rise again unless you overwhelm the current biofilter (like by adding too many fish).  With it processing 2ppm fairly quickly, this tank can process ammonia from a small bio-load, so (in theory) you should be able to slowly add livestock.  I say in theory because it wasn't that long ago when your Royal Gramma overwhelmed the biofilter.

 

If you really wanted to check it, you'd dose 2ppm of ammonium chloride into the tank and make sure that it could process it within 24 hours.  If it can't, then keep dosing it back up to 2ppm until it can process it within 24 hours.

 

18 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

and also nitrate?

Nitrate won't go down by itself, and without an ammonia source, it won't go up either.  You can lower nitrate through water changes.  I'd try to target it between 5 and 10ppm.

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Kindanewtothis

I hope the anemone stays where it is. It's not so bad. Also I'm tryning letuce from my garden to see if the flame angel wants some.

 

The phosphate remover is in the filter.

20210611_122920.jpg

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seabass

Looks like the tank is developing a bit of cyanobacteria.  That's generally a sign of excess organics (maybe due to some overdue sand bed maintenance).

 

That frogspawn(?) coral looks a bit bleached.  You might actually not mind the color, but it's a sign of poor health.  Hopefully it'll color up for you soon.

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Kindanewtothis
13 minutes ago, seabass said:

 

That frogspawn(?) coral looks a bit bleached.  You might actually not mind the color, but it's a sign of poor health.  Hopefully it'll color up for you soon.

It's suppose to be a hammer. It's exactly like it was when I bought it. I need to start testing calcium, magnesium and kh I suppose. Could it be because it need more lights, it's not high in the tank?

 

13 minutes ago, seabass said:

Looks like the tank is developing a bit of cyanobacteria.  That's generally a sign of excess organics (maybe due to some overdue sand bed maintenance).

 

That's one of the many question I had if it was cyano. I think I'm over feeding. I give about the size of a quarter (25 cents USD or CAD) of mysis once or twice a day. I think the sand bed maintenance is overdue also.

20210611_142410.jpg

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seabass
18 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

It's suppose to be a hammer....

20210611_142410.jpg

Nah, it's a frogspawn.  That's a better pic.  Nice coral, very similar to a hammer (both Euphyllia corals), and often misidentified.

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Clown79
29 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

It's suppose to be a hammer. It's exactly like it was when I bought it. I need to start testing calcium, magnesium and kh I suppose. Could it be because it need more lights, it's not high in the tank?

 

That's one of the many question I had if it was cyano. I think I'm over feeding. I give about the size of a quarter (25 cents USD or CAD) of mysis once or twice a day. I think the sand bed maintenance is overdue also.

20210611_142410.jpg

That seems like a lot of food.

 

A quarter size twice a day would account for the high phos.

 

You should feed only what lasts about 1 mins before all eaten.

 

Mixing foods is another good option. They get lots of nutrients that way which also incorporates some veggies into their diet.

 

I liked feeding mysis, flake, and pellets.

 

Mysis was every other day, less than a dime size for 4 fish. 

 

Flake and pellet was 2 times a day but not in lqrge quantities. 

 

I always took water from the tank, placing flakes or pellets in it and pouring it in because my fish didn't like eating from the surface.

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Kindanewtothis
1 hour ago, seabass said:

Nah, it's a frogspawn.  That's a better pic.  Nice coral, very similar to a hammer (both Euphyllia corals), and often misidentified.

With different lighting. 

20210611_155316.jpg

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Kindanewtothis

The fishs in the pictures are available at my lfs. Tempted by the  scooter blenny.

Screenshot_20210611-160051_Facebook.jpg

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Kindanewtothis

Also I wanted to say that I know I ask a lot and you guys anwser so fast. Thanks again and don't feel obligated.

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seabass
32 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

It's a good test; some people like Red Sea kits.  Personally, I tend to recommend Salifert.

 

32 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Tempted by the  scooter blenny.

Don't be.  I warned you earlier about that.  And the tank might be a bit small for those other blennies.

 

The citron and neon gobies would be alright.

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Kindanewtothis
3 minutes ago, seabass said:

Don't be.  I warned you earlier about that.  And the tank might be a bit small for those other blennies.

I wasn't sure, sorry about that. Must have it confused with another blenny. You sent me a link before about fishs for nano tank, I'll look at it again.

 

8 minutes ago, seabass said:

The citron and neon gobies would be alright.

I'll go read about these 2. Thanks

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seabass

If I can make a suggestion, decide what you want to keep (whether that's a shrimp goby and shrimp combo, or something else).  Don't really concern yourself with what your LFS currently has in stock.  There is no rush here to stock your 10 gallon tank.

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Kindanewtothis
5 minutes ago, seabass said:

If I can make a suggestion, decide what you want to keep (whether that's a shrimp goby and shrimp combo, or something else).  Don't really concern yourself with what your LFS currently has in stock.  There is no rush here to stock your 10 gallon tank.

You are right. I was thinking I could just start with hermit crabs for now.

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Murphych

1st bottle just tank water and second bottle with reagent is what I do...shake the 2nd bottle for 10 seconds then make sure there are no bubbles in it before you start the test.  0.31 Is w tasty number and if correctly measured, yes you could use a water change or phosphate remover... 

 

Phosphate remover comes with its own issues. If your going to use a liquid make sure and swap out your floss daily as you will get a good build up of waste.. and a skimmer is definitely a must 

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Kindanewtothis
3 hours ago, Murphych said:

Phosphate remover comes with its own issues. If your going to use a liquid make sure and swap out your floss daily as you will get a good build up of waste.. and a skimmer is definitely a must 

I use a "sponge pad" directly in the filter. I got a skimmer.

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Kindanewtothis

Good news! The mushroom that was splitting is now 2 mushrooms, I'm excited! Lights have been closed for more than an hour now so it's "closed". 

 

Do you use lights at night, moonlight mode? I have ask on the AI prime facebook group and it's 50-50.

20210611_213922.jpg

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