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Llorgon

Newbies IM 25 AIO

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Llorgon

Still struggling with high nitrates and phosphates. Although the phosphates have come down some.

 

Algae isn't much worse, but it isn't getting better either.

 

I did pickup some peroxide and put some on a few patches of the turf algae before my weekly water change. I will see how they are looking tomorrow.

 

Other than the algae and high nitrates and phosphates everything is running well. I am hoping the trochus snails I ordered come in this week and they can make a bit of a dent in the algae.

 

Looking for some lps coral suggestions for filling out the rockwork on the right. The top most part of it is 2.5 from the water line.

 

Tank Params are

Salinity: 1.026

Temp: 78

pH: 8.2

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 25

Phosphate: 0.074

Alkalinity: 9.8

Calcium: 475

Magnesium: 1350

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Llorgon

Been awhile since I did a update. Still have high nutrients, but I have been slowly lowering them.

 

I did my first online coral order from fragbox. I ordered a trumpet coral, pink acan, favia and cyphastrea. All arrived in good condition except the trumpet. I think they will be sending a replacement. 

 

For the most part corals have been doing well. The Kenya tree is dropping branches like crazy. Been selling them as I can. My Duncan is showing some new heads starting. Unfortunately I lost the small surviving piece of forest fire digi. 

 

Fish are all doing well. I've started working on my 75g so I can get the yellow Tang out of the small tank. Ran into a issue though when I noticed the 75g stand was compromised. So yay building a new stand...

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10001110101
On 12/23/2019 at 4:30 PM, Llorgon said:

I picked up a TDS meter yesterday. So I went around testing water sources. My tap water is 146 TDS and the water in my ato reservoir was 62ppm. I tested some ro/di water in my water storage container and it came out at 17ppm. I'm going to make some more water today and test it as it's coming out the ro/di unit and see what that reads.

 

I hope I don't have to change my filters already!

 

17PPM is too high for RO/DI and is going to fuel nuisance algae growth, there are some things like heavy metals (lead, etc) that are unacceptable even in the PPB range that doesn't show up on a TDS meter, which is why you need to maintain the filter media for your RO/DI unit.  I had an old RO/DI that I had used for several years, DI resin was totally shot and brown, sediment filter and carbon block were both shot, but still showed 0 TDS on my tds meter coming from 200+ TDS water, but I know that I'm not removing chloramines (which also don't show up on TDS meter) and I know that my DI resin is most likely leaching some nasty stuff possibly heavy metals back into the water.

 

Point is even 0PPM TDS isn't necessarily okay if your filter media, particularly DI resin, need to be changed.  If your RO/DI is coming out at 17PPM you need to change your media, not necessarily the RO membrane, but the sediment filter, carbon block, and DI resin need to be changed.  Change those and if you're still above 0ppm then you will need a new RO membrane.  Good news is you can get the full set of replacement filters for your RO/DI including DI resin for literally like 15 bucks from BRS.

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Llorgon
On 2/18/2020 at 4:18 AM, 10001110101 said:

 

17PPM is too high for RO/DI and is going to fuel nuisance algae growth, there are some things like heavy metals (lead, etc) that are unacceptable even in the PPB range that doesn't show up on a TDS meter, which is why you need to maintain the filter media for your RO/DI unit.  I had an old RO/DI that I had used for several years, DI resin was totally shot and brown, sediment filter and carbon block were both shot, but still showed 0 TDS on my tds meter coming from 200+ TDS water, but I know that I'm not removing chloramines (which also don't show up on TDS meter) and I know that my DI resin is most likely leaching some nasty stuff possibly heavy metals back into the water.

 

Point is even 0PPM TDS isn't necessarily okay if your filter media, particularly DI resin, need to be changed.  If your RO/DI is coming out at 17PPM you need to change your media, not necessarily the RO membrane, but the sediment filter, carbon block, and DI resin need to be changed.  Change those and if you're still above 0ppm then you will need a new RO membrane.  Good news is you can get the full set of replacement filters for your RO/DI including DI resin for literally like 15 bucks from BRS.

I did figure out my RO/DI. Seems like I didn't have the membrane in all the way. It's at 0 now 🙂

 

It's been a busy few weeks, but I finally have time to update on the tank.

 

Fish are doing well. All eating like pigs!

 

Corals doing well as well. Duncan has new heads, frogspawn is getting bigger, the new acan I bought a few weeks ago has a new head. A cyphastrea I had in my 75 gallon which I thought died in the original move has come back. I see green and 3 red spots!

 

On the bad side. The algae has been getting worse. Due to high nutrients and a bit of neglect the last few weeks. This weekend I was able to do a bigger clean. I did a 10 gal water change, cleaned the sand, scrubbed rocks in the tank as best I could, removed rocks/old snail shells that were covered in algae and scrubbed them with peroxide to really kill the algae.

 

Over the last week I have been experimenting with vodka dosing in an attempt to lower nitrates and phosphates. I have yet to see a decrease, but I am hoping it comes soon!

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Llorgon
I think I cut my dosage to the "maintenance level" for vodka dosing a bit to soon. When testing with salifert phosphate test kit since I ran out of reagent for my hanna it was reading 0 and my nitrate test read 0.
 
Testing last night after getting more reagent my phosphate is still at 0.046ppm and nitrate using the red sea test kit is at around 1.5ppm
 
Going to up my vodka dosing from 0.6ml/day to 0.7ml/day and see if phosphate starts to come down a bit more.

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Amphrites

I would be careful with dropping your phosphate, a cursory-search around this forum will net quite a few cautionary tales beginning with low-nutrients and ending in months-long battles with dinoflagellates. You can always add more CuC and trim-down taller algae so they can eat the new sprouts before they crop up, it also looks as if the tank is getting natural-sunlight, which in newer systems can cause out-of-control algae issues until things balance out.

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Llorgon

I open up the blinds when I take pictures so they come out better. Other than that they stay closed. I have some window tint I have been meaning to put on the window to keep more light out.

 

I've dealt with dinos on my 75 gallon. So I am very aware of what can happen with too low of nutrients. I am aiming to get phosphate down to around 0.01 range. I just keep getting the hair algae with it in the 0.046 range.

 

I do need to add more clean up crew. They are a bit hard to come by in my area and I haven't had much luck ordering online. There is a new shop opening up in town next month. I should be able to get more CUC then.

 

Trimming the algae is a good idea. I will try that. I have had some good luck with using a syringe to put boiling ro/di water on the algae. Kills the algae and can get really close to coral with no ill effects... so far. The algae goes white and the snails and hermits I have really seem to enjoy it. It's just been hard to keep up with lately.

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Amphrites

Reefcleaners are a Nano-Reef favorite for cleanup crews, most of my pest-algae vanished after my P04 hit 0.2 while fighting dino's oddly-enough.

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Llorgon

Unfortunately reef cleaners doesn't ship to Canada.

 

Interesting that your pest algae disappears after 0.2. Mine seems to come when above 0.1ppm

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Llorgon

Tank is doing well minus hair algae. It's always hair algae! Someone help me get rid of the hair algae.

 

All the fish are doing well and always hungry.

Corals seem to be doing well. I had one coral that I thought was dead make a comeback which I am happy about. Seeing some new growth on my acans, Duncan, hammer and frogspawn. I sold my Kenya tree as it was dropping branches everywhere and taking over the tank. Now I have room for more corals!

 

I have got my nitrate and phosphate under control. They both read 0 on my last test. I don't think it's true 0 as algae is still growing. I would like to have a bit of nitrate and phosphate so I guess the vodka dosing is still a bit of a balancing act to find what's right for the tank.

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Llorgon

Anyone have any tips on getting these corals going?

 

The first two I got in early Feb and I haven't been seeing any growth.

 

The acan I have had for a year now and it just won't grow. The other 2 acans I have are growing perfectly fine. But this guy always looks unhappy.

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Llorgon

Maybe?

The cyphastrea coral is near another one that has been doing well and growing quickly. Maybe it just takes a month or two to settle in.

 

The favia I have moved around a bunch to find a good place for it.

 

The acan is near other happy acans so light and flow should be fine?

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Amphrites
45 minutes ago, Llorgon said:

Maybe?

The cyphastrea coral is near another one that has been doing well and growing quickly. Maybe it just takes a month or two to settle in.

 

The favia I have moved around a bunch to find a good place for it.

 

The acan is near other happy acans so light and flow should be fine?

Not necessarily, there are many different species of "acan" coral and individuals within will have different preferences as well.
The acan looks fine to me, the favia might be getting too much flow, and I don't have much experience with cyphastrea.

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